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RogueSqdn

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Everything posted by RogueSqdn

  1. I have not seen any of my profiles flex at all. Keep in mind they aren't completely hollow, there is supporting aluminum on the insides as well.
  2. Yes, the Monstertech display stand is made of 40x40mm tubes. The cockpit has 40x40, 40x80, and 80x80 pieces depending on the strength needed. I'm not sure if making an entire cockpit out of 40x40 would work out.
  3. Thanks. I try to keep things as simplified as possible. The pedals are high up for one reason: to get my arm to be able to rest on my thigh when using the center stick grip. I found that when the pedals were lower, there would be a large gap and my arm would get tired. Real cockpits with center sticks are generally set so the arm can rest that way.
  4. Try this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3780737 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  5. Over Christmas I decided to rearrange things a bit. The impetus was twofold: 1) Get the computer away from the wall, allowing better cooling. 2) Make it easier to unplug the Reverb G2 when not using it. I now have some benefits here. 1) The computer being further away from me and from the wall reduces the amount of noise I hear from it when in VR. The right side panel of the computer is aluminum with sound dampening foam installed. I had been using aluminum on both sides to reduce the noise, but now I can use the glass panel on the left side, allowing the interior and the lighting to show. 2) When the computer was back near the wall, if I needed to unplug/replug the Reverb G2, I had to pull the whole computer towards me to reach behind it (the computer is on a small board with wheels attached). Now, I can just lean forward in my seat and unplug the USB C cable from the USB A adapter. This also prevents WMR from opening at startup. 3) I've been able to eliminate one of my two USB hubs from the equation. I use a 13-port Anker hub with a power switch (only 8 ports are being used). I've now been able to mount it on the right side of the cockpit behind the armrest mount, on the chair mount rail. I can now simply reach down and hit the power switch to shut everything off, instead of reaching forward for the front hub, and stretching behind the cockpit for the rear hub. 4) I've been able to further reduce visiblity of wires and cabling. I now have only one cable sleeve stretching from the rear of the cockpit to the power strip at the wall, containing only four wires: the Reverb G2, two power cords (one for the computer itself, another three prong one for the speakers, TV, and Reverb G2, and a CAT5 cable going to the wall). 5) I've been able to move the trash can to the other side of the cockpit, reducing clutter. 6) I've been able to reduce the amount of wires run all the way from the front to the back of the cockpit to just five: the four mentioned above, and a USB 3 cable going from my hub at the seat to the back of the computer. This will more easily allow me to slide a small floor mat under the foot area of the cockpit if I so choose later on. You may also note the lack of the Tartarus Pro. I keep that in one of the plastic drawers behind me now, unless I want to play an FPS (which I haven't in months). The reason is that with Razer's current drivers, if I plug it in with all of my other controllers plugged in, it will cause a few of my other controllers to disconnect, making it practically useless in DCS. I've had to come up with other ways to do what I was using it for. I've run a small USB extension cable from the hub over to the left side, allowing me to quickly plug the Tartarus in if I need to. The only other thing at this point that I think I may do is find a power strip with a long enough cable to reach from the front of the cockpit all the way to the outlet. That would allow me to move the power to the front of the cockpit, under the rudder pedals, and further reduce wiring. Any suggestions on that? (I would need a cable from power strip to wall of between 12-15 feet).
  6. You can manually program commands into Voiceattack to switch to individual tabs, or to cycle left/right between them. It’s covered in the VAICOM manual. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  7. In my case, it’s the manual tab commands that won’t work to bring up the ATC page. Haven’t tried it by voice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  8. Not digging the grey like you, but I do like the simplicity. Also, is that a different finish? Seems smoother. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  9. I ordered on day one right after getting the email. Just had my card charged and invoice email received... hopefully that means shipping sooner than mid January. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  10. Yes, I do have a command created, but unfortunately it only works about half the time. I can’t seem to narrow down why. Not at home now so I can’t give you more information than that. I CAN tell you that I have left/right cycle tabs and a command for the REF tab working. The left/right cycle skips past the ATC tab most of the time also. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  11. Turning off auto browse does not fix the intermittent ATC page. [emoji2357] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  12. I have the ATC tab command set up in Voiceattack but it only works intermittently. [emoji2369] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  13. Looking forward to it, Miles. Especially since V1 bumps into the RealSimulator Hornet grip. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  14. I've gotten my G2 and new system dialed in fairly well for DCS now. I decided to focus on quality and a smooth experience rather than trying to keep 90FPS. Over the front in a Liberation campaign in Syria, I'm still getting 45+ FPS.
  15. Any idea why getting auto to be recognized requires me to restart VAICOM? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  16. Hmmm... well it seems when switching between the A and the B I have to reset VAICOM/VA and then the AUTO function is recognized in the B. EDIT: It also works the other way... if I load the B first, AUTO won't work in the A unless I restart VAICOM.
  17. Wow, this was tedious, but it seems to be working so far. One issue though, with the F-14. On the comms switch, pressing upward should activate both UHF1 and UHF2. That would logically make it a candidate for the TX4 AUTO function, however the F-14B doesn't have AUTO recognized in VAICOM (the F-14A DOES). This leaves me with trying to squeeze two "Execute External Plugin" lines on the same PTT, which doesn't seem to work. Only the second one lights up in VAICOM's configuration window. Any ideas, @Hollywood_315?
  18. Ok, thanks for the tip. Here's an example of what I checked: A-10A A-10C (covers both A-10C and A-10C II) AV-8BNA F-5E F-14AB (covers both F-14A and F-14B) F-15C F-16C FA-18C F-86F P-47D P-51D TF-51D I'll start working on A/C specific PTTs in a bit. I've figured a way around some of my other Joystick Gremlin/vJoy requirements, so if this works, I will have two less pieces of software to worry about (especially if a device accidentally disconnects in-flight!).
  19. Hollywood, I’m willing to give that a shot, but my question is this: what are the module names that VAICOM will recognize? I’m not at home and can’t look at the manual to see if it’s mentioned or not. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  20. I'd have commented sooner but I've been busy working on my new computer. That said, it looks great. I seriously considered getting black for my rig, but decided against it because I thought every little scratch and speck of dust would show up. Would you mind letting us know how that works out?
  21. This may help someone here... I figured out a way to have different PTTs per aircraft and only have to have one VA profile:
  22. No, just do like I did and set it like you want for firmware, set your brightness, and uninstall it. I just got my new system and haven’t even thought about putting it in there, and won’t unless their F-16 throttle requires it. My main beef was that it would create additional vJoy devices. Was that ever fixed? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  23. A second way to do it is to only have one VAICOM profile, and assign each TX node to a vJoy button. Then have a separate Joystick Gremlin profile for each aircraft, and assign your PTT buttons to those vJoy buttons, as desired by aircraft. After that, you only have to load a different JG profile when switching aircraft. I used to do it the first way, and would have to mess with daisy chained profiles in Voiceattack, but I came up with the second way a few weeks ago, and think it's much easier to deal with.
  24. Seems to be working in Tapatalk now. Here’s an emoji test. [emoji41] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  25. I like the look so far, but Tapatalk does not work yet. Hopefully emojis work with Tapatalk this time. :) My only problem with the web forum (typing this in Microsoft Edge) is that the auto-saved prompt pops up, covering your first line of text and making it impossible to see what you've typed. I foresee a lot of blank first lines.
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