mr_mojo97

As above. Anyone else noticed? Whether or not it is dim or bright the port is always larger. Starboard one looks smaller (much better) although it could still diffuse better in my opinion. This is 1.5.7 by the way - not tried it in 2 yet

Yeah, it's a great campaign with lots going on. I'd just like to add that for more immersion it helps using Voiceattack for a lot of the F10-F1 etc triggers in each missions (adding in lots of different phrases). really, really looking forward to the red flag campaign

Yeah, happened to me although mine was totally gubbed. Ended up contacting TM who sent out another throttle pcb at a cost of £75 and it didn't work and they wouldn't accept a return, I was told I'd have to send the entire throttle unit to France for refurbishment!!! Flashing the firmware didn't work for me either. I just ended up selling mine on eBay for £100 and getting another fully functional used one on eBay for £165.

Must not be used to it! I'll try and post a track tonight, I just don't remember it being like this (4 years ago!)

I know, I never used to have to do that though. I mean leaving the stick central, it pitches to almost vertical within seconds. No key binding issues either. Ta

Hi all, I've just noticed (I think with the last update) the cyclic in game is to the right of centre, it's fine in Windows 10 and in the game axis settings but in the cockpit it's not central leaving me to fight with the controls. A similar issue with pitch on the BS too (in the BS forum). Any ideas? Cheers

Ok, so I've not flown the BS from r ages and decided to get back into it. One thing I did notice (and couldn't remember it doing before) is the while my (extended) Warthog is centred the BS pitches back considerably and I have to fight it to stay level. Calibration in both Windows 10 and in-game are normal. Any ideas? Cheers

I find the helmet mounted gunsight reticle not central. It's an inch up from centre and I'm having to lower my head to get lined up with a target. Otherwide, as others have said it's excellent.

Mine are still on after about 5 or 6 years!! They're cool!! Lol

That's an excellent home made set up you got there mate

Yes, figured that out. Done. Thanks. Will check this out later

Not used with puitting new skins in. Where do they go please? Is it in the Mods - Aircraft folder or Bazar - Liveries (there are no Spitfire or B-17G folders here). Cheers

In the A-10C You can do it through the right mfcd which is miles easier. Can't remember how off the top off my head as I've not flown the hog in 2 years but it's a simple process.

Flaming squirrel, check my thread on it from my profile. There's also others by Molevitch and Fragbum amongst others. It's not difficult - maybe a bit time consuming but that's half the fun

Excellent. Do they have a damage model?

Hey Mole, it's your circuit diagram that I used to wire up my relay and sensor, but could not get it to work. Probably as I tried to use it through the 5v of the LB X board rather than a 12 v supply! I might also ahead and get one of those door electromagnets you provided info on. My problem is I can't have anything like a strong damper because the collective is mounted to a small table so when I lift the collective it just pulls the table up!! Maybe I could add a brick or something....

Or if your up for a challenge, make your own. There are a few of us on here who have done using real helicopter collectives or completely hand made and connected to a joystick interface card with great results. And it'd cost a fraction of those ready made products.

Hey, FragBum, that's the way I was going to go- a scratch built one - I think I'd have preferred having a twist grip throttle on the collective - think it would add better immersion for me. Maybe I'll get rid of this at some point and buy a Huey collective. Yours is looking good though, neat and tidy. And enjoy that stick time!! Cheers Hansolo, not so much tinkering time these days but I'll try

The switch panel if you look closely is my old A-10C radio panel - just some plexiglass with a laminated photo of the real thing glued to it. The mega cheap option. Lol. I might just leave the relay for now, beacause I swap around with the Warthog throttle quite a bit, having an extra cable to unplug would be a pain in the arse. You've given my an idea about the hall sensors - for some reason I thought it would be better using two magnets - maybe just one going towards a steel bracket would be better. I got to where I need to be to be able to fly, the touch ups and fine tuning will come later. Now, time to fly the Huey. @cheers Bignewy - in fact it was your build that made me think about doing one ages ago!

Update 2. Finally got the time to do some more. So I've gone through a couple of different dampers, a gas strut and a universal steering damper. Neither I'm afraid were to my liking. I ended up using basic neodymium magnets (robbed from my IKEA knife rack!) attached to a bracket - the linkage on the collective has an attached length of metal taken from a carpenters bevel gauge and this glides past the bracket (as in the pic). There is very little friction and one magnet holds the collective nicely. I tried the relay with the PTB buttons without luck yet (although I've only tried it with 5v from the Leo Bodnar board rather than 12v power supply - I was hoping to avoid another cable). Still not decided what to do with the collar system either. Still haven't sorted my axis yet either. The hall sensor is between 2 magnets and slows down quite a bit between them at the centre - maybe more testing in axis tune is in order. I've also added some extra encoders, two way and three way switches and a couple of buttons - still got an extra 6 inputs for the board too!

Just a quick update. Managed to get all the wires sorted out using a multi-meter (took a couple of hours mind you - while having a few beers and watching Guy Martins Spitfire programme). Anyways, I'm going with the basic build of the century here. I've built a new stand for it and added the hall sensors close to the pivot point. They seem to be working quite well, it's still in the testing stage so will need some permanent solution but it seems at this point I will stay with hall sensors rather than pots. Now, a small issue arose when I found out that the Westland Lynx uses a FADEC system (Full Authority Digital Engine Control) - no manual control of throttle at all. So I can't find out what the round, nothcy turny thing is below the collective head. It clearly has a linkage system, so presumably moving the collective up and down makes this thing auto throttle(?). So I'm not sure what to do with this - at the moment I've bound the throttle to the 3 way (on-off-on) thumb switch which actually works really well - although I'll probably change this to the 2 thumb operated momentary switches adjacent the 3 way. Still to come is the dampening system and the mag brake. I've ordered a 12v 50N (equivalent to holding around 5kg) electro magnet and a 12v 1A dc charger. If it works I might also try a 5v version to cut out the charger cable and plug it straight into the Bodnar board. The damping I'll probably go with the same system as Mole here- seems straight forward enough. Sorry for the crap iPad photos.

You're a star Yogi, thanks. Actually I'm using a real Lynx collective but fly the Huey regularly these days when not in the Mirage.

Hi all, does anyone know this angle at which the collective stops when pulling up? Cheers

Cheers Hansolo, that was an awesome project you just did. Got my new X board coming tomorrow. What kind of damper are you using there? I have a push to OFF button for the collective release and was hoping to use that with a solenoid switch - we'll see how that pans out!! It looks like the up and down switches of the 4 way hatswitch don't work and the two momentary switches don't seem to work (at least with my rudimentary bulb test circuit I made!) - I'll try again when the multimeter arrives

Hi all just bought this 2 days ago but really my soldering skills aren't up to scratch. Anyone interested? As new. I'm going to go down the X board again hence the sale. £30 Free postage to the uk, postage at cost to rest of the world Check their website out for details.