Goblin

I was also thinking about RC car dampers...

Are there any likeable bugs? ;)

Very nice! I have been toying with the idea of adding dampers to my BRD-N stick. Where did you get your dampers?

Elevator trim. Rudder trim. Aileron trim. Sight distance. Sight wingspan. Basically anything that can be increased with one button, and decreased with another button. Different engine controls for instance.

Try setting it up as a slider.

LOL! :thumbup:

It is past tense, but it doesn’t mean they are finished working on it.

I have used the VPC MT-50 for over a year. Wrote a review here. I haven’t used the WarBRD, but I have used the BRD-N, from the same designer. Review here. The BRD-N has the same type of dual scissor cams as the WarBRD, typical for Baurs designs. The way these scissor cams distribute the centering force is ingenious! It is really smooth around center, and force increases towards the end of travel. I too had the Cougar, with Uber NXT gimbal and hall sensors. The Warthog plastic gimbal works great, but will wear out. And if you subject the stick to rotational loads, it will break. I bet you will be very pleased with any of these joystick bases. The only downside is that you can’t use the TM software for programming. But I haven’t missed it since the days of the Cougar. The VPC Config software is really only for updating firmware and calibration. Modern sims allow for detailed key assignment in the controller setup, so the need for advanced macro programming is a distant memory, for me.

All I know I have issues with the signals if I don’t remove the resistors and add one on the controller. I got that info from the author of MMJoy.

I found a similar sensor PCB layout. It’s the resistor marked in red. Edit: I should say that I measured with a multimeter, and the left side (in pic) of that resistor goes to VCC (+ pin) and the right side of the resistor goes to the miso pin (3rd pin from the top).

I have used TLE 5010 sensors with different PCB layout. On the first, I just cut the line on the PCB. The other, I just de soldered the resistor. A tweezer to hold, and pry, the resistor, and a soldering iron. I’ll have a look and see if I have any sensors of your design.

That sounds a bit generous, considering the capabilities of the real PS37/A radar. But the fact that a column of hard vehicles can be detected and parked aircraft can’t, sounds reasonable. It’s all in the reflectivity of the material, and the radar cross section of the object. Vehicles are usually box shaped, and aircraft rounder and streamlined. But I have no idea if this is simulated.

You need to remove the resistor on the miso line of the sensors. And then you put a 10K Ohm resistor between the miso and vcc, on the controller. I made my PCB like this, for the teensy2.

The Viggen radar doesn’t have the resolution to pick out aircraft sized objects. It can detect large terrain features like rivers, fields, mountains, etc. Maybe even large structures like a bridge, or a ship at sea.

I used these. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F192315940922

OMG..! Look at that night lighting... I want a video of the VR hands tapping the LCD fuel gauge.

Land or burn, I always say... ;) I know the eject command in DCS Viggen has been greyed out earlier. Must have a look if this is still true, on my install.

Heatblur. Rocks. :thumbup:

That’s why I asked. :)

I wish we could have the initial ‘simple’ mirrors that the initial early release version had, as an option. Better than black or static mirrors and gives a little life to the cockpit, without a huge performance loss.

Have you calibrated the throttle using Windows game controllers?

The 111 would be awesome in DCS.

Just a clarification for my understanding. Does the axis jitter in windows game controller and in the VPC setup software, or does it just jitter in DCS?

That you are contributing to the confusion by spelling ”shocked” as ”chocked”. :) I hope you don’t choke on my reply ;)

I’d like to be on that list as well!