lxsapper

I was one of the NO TARGET crowd, and I still have a couple of of big issues with it. But I have since reverted to using target in all my sims mainly because TrackIR software also sucks and will not allow me to have a button in the joystick/throttle to recenter/pause without having the same number button in the other controller doing the same. With that said TARGET does allow for some nice tricks. For example I have my trim hat doing trim like its suposed to, but if I pause TrackIR it will pan the view instead.

At 100% you don't have 100% chance of catching a bird but whatever percent chance they consider you have of catching one in the real world. At 1000% you have 10x that.

The whole point of Oculus and VR is so that you can look where you would look in reality. This talk of curves and translating a small movement to a big one in game is sily. The reason we use what with trackIR in the first place is because of the need to keep the eyes on the screen. As for the akward positions that can be seen in the pictures, my gess is he's compensating for Occulus still inadequate resolution, so he needs to get closer to read the instruments clearly.

I'll try to make a video of it.

Try a small fresnel placed localy?

And you are right of course about the pot sensitivity, that's one reason I had planned on using a relatively short extension using this mod, that way I may even end up not reducing travel at all. In my tests this was usable as a center stick if the joystick base (or whatever housing is constructed) was just bellow my thighs. The actual diference from the grip base is pheraps 20cm (I don't have this assembled at the moment anymore). The video doesn't show it very well because I was showcassing a diferent aspect of it. The reason I'm interested in the mod is because I want to use the Warthog grip instead of that cheap plastic one. :)

Yes that's what I tried to test before. But I didn't use the mechanical stop. I calibrated the stick to about 50% of it's travel (just for testing purposes) and then using the trimmer on the blackshark to trim to full deflected stick in sim (50% physical travel) the trimmer would then position the stick at 100% physical travel. The Mechanical stop you did will prevent that but it might be making the problem "invisible" without through testing at less extreme travel ranges. Or I might have to repeat my testing, I could have come to wrong conclusions. That would be good news.

I made this atempt to try to inlustrate this, forgive me for the roughness of it. The top images represent from left to right: A normal desktop joystick moved to one of it's axis limits, the same joystick with a 50cm extension, the same but with it's axis limit with less angular throw so it's closer to a real aircraft center stick. The final forth image is the second and third superimposed. On the bottom it's a crude and wrong atempt to measure the linear throw in each implementation. It's only an aproximation for starters it had to be measured in an arc, but it should give a rough idea of the diferences. (Second and third are swaped in the bottom images.)

I think I may not have explained my self well regarding the throw of the joystick. The thing is the MSFF2 was designed as a desk joystick it's linear throw is quite shorter than a real aircrafts control stick but the angular throw is actually bigger. So when you extend it to a real aircraft stick lenght or near to, you end up with a huge linear throw. I would resolve that using some custom physical stopage to reduce the angular throw, and then would add some saturation to make the joystick responses bounds match the physical stopages. But in my experience with the MSFF2 the servos don't care what the saturation values are they are calibrated so that X or Y pot positon should place the stick in x or y position (helicopter trimming for instance), with saturation added the two positions won't match any longer.

Well I'll sure be on lookout for your design. :)

Well I'm not a ME like Whiplash, but I've taken the MSFF2 apart and I think it's very well made. I think people wrongly think things have to be metal to be strong. It depends on the plastic but some plastics are crazy strong. Even the Warthogs gimball (granted far from perfect gimballs they are) are made of plastic and suport the weight and forces of a metal built joystick. Also I can't speak for the forces of a double force MSFF2 but the regular one has adequate but not overbearing forces, I can't imagine it breaking with doubled force. Still it would be interesting to see what other designs people would come up with. My reservations would be that mechanical throw and electical pot response would have to be kept very much on the same ranges because I don't think they can be calibrated at all with the MSFF2, I tried to use some saturation values to see if it was possible to reduce throw (wich can get exessive depending on how big an extension you are building) and the force position became out of sync with the pot position. I don't know if anyone has any experience or ideas how one would overcome that.

I am defently planing on the counter weight like the System PeterP did. The reason I asked is because I worry that using the normal engines at double power will kill them quickly. I was thinking that if I used the double voltage hack like you did, but to drive two motors per channel, that each motor would only work at it's normal operating range on a normal FF2.

Trim lights seem to be gone also.

I've seen a guy selling one locally (Portugal) on olx.pt http://lisboacity.olx.pt/saitek-pro-flight-x-65f-combat-control-system-como-novo-iid-450022473

I am wondering can you use this voltage doble to drive a PeterP type construction from a single board? With the motors in parallel maybe?

I wonder if for a bigger stick and a warthog handle I will need bigger motors, and how much more voltage that would require.

I very much want to this as well. Not only because of DCS evolution but because of other sims.

This are my entries:

On the second part I can concur, after further testing I also find it inconclusive. But when I say we were talking of diferent things you are butting in in a direct response I was giving to Havner. Only I can say to him or not if we were on the same page before I watched his track. I was not, the circustances he was refering the nose dip ocurs is not the same I was telling him they do not.

We weren't talking about the same exact circustances or way of dealing with trim. Replicating the track you posted with your steps of control the FFB stick behaves similarly, and the same nose dip occurs. However using clicktrims troughout the manuver or press-moving stick-releasing it does not. In fact it's dead stable using the latter method

The nose dive is cause like it was mentioned before by the fact that you are not returning the sick to center fast enough (0.5s), and it's very hard to do smothly and acuratly. Thre is no nose dive in central trimmer position if you are smoth with the controls. With a FFB joystick for the most part there is no nose dive but you run into other possible problems. With my MSFF2 I find that the possible positions the trimmer holds the stick in both the Y and X axis are actually very crude and spaced. I don't know if this is a hardware limitation or if the software not sending apropriate data to the joystick, but there's a good 3-4mm stick travel distance between the positions I can get my MSFF2 to hold. This causes bumping when trimming. Click-trimming seems to agravate the problem, and the best aproach apears to be using this aproach: 1- holding the trim button, 2 - Moving the Cyclic, 3 - Releasing the trim button. That way it's possible to be very precise with preaty much no bumping and no surprise nose dips whatsoever.

The adaptor I bought cost me €1 each a local hardware store. It's plastic but It works just fine.

They are the very much spot on real size. Real size F-16 MFDs, the A-10C's MFCDS are bigger, but those are not what the TM replicates. They are useable in a pit but.... :) A-10 MFCDs replicas would be so much better! ;)

Here's my take on it. Here's my work of today, still not quite finished, will probably make it a wee bit shorter, but you can allways shorten long you can't make short longer. smile Since I still haven't built my seat/cockpit I wasn't quite sure how long I need it. Still have to add some screews to stop the tubing from rotating. I had the cable prepared some time ago, today I finaly went and got that second garden hose connector, I had only bought one to make sure it was the right size. Some Dremel work and it's mostly done. The Hose connectors cost me €1 each, the total cost was probably around €11, but I can't remember the exact price I paid for the cable. So here it is:

It's normal for the sky to be dark up in those altitudes. You are neearing space and the remaining atmosphere you have between you and space "vacuum" is quite thin. The sky is blue because of sun light reflecting off of our atmosphere, up there there's a lot less molecules for light to go through and reflect off until it reaches your eyes.