flyer49

I was having the same problem but resolved it in a different way. After removing the batteries from the controller the problem remained and what I did to resolve the issue was to go into VR and uncheck "use controllers" while "use mouse" stayed checked...problem solved..

The fresh install did the trick...thank you all for your help. Not sure what happened but I'm now in game and have my F-14...thanks again, you're all awesome.

That didn't work so I deleted everything and going to do a fresh install to see if that works...very strange, I was able to use DCS until I did the last fresh install after I purchased the F-14. I got a message that said that to use it I would need to do a fresh install so I was following directions.

Rudel, I didn't zip mine before inserting...is this ok edited: By looking at spiff80's zip...I see why you wanted it zipped...do you want me to zip and insert. dcs_Log IV.zip

Hi all, I'm getting a black screen during start-up of a fresh install of DCS World. I can't get past the opening DCS page. It will show the DCS logo for about 30 seconds and then go black. I've even let it sit for about five minutes, and it's still black I purchased the F-14 about two weeks ago and then did a clean install as I was directed to do to use it. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it. Below are the before and after screenshots. Thank in advance for you advice and help, [ATTACH]208451[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]208452[/ATTACH]

lol...Tyger tried that...my "sim" still doesn't work even after reinstalling DCS, fresh. After reinstalling DCS, I activated only the F-18 and the Gulf terrain modules to test for any previous modules activation/deactivation issues that might cause the crashes. As I said in the previous post, this is a new, higher performance system (completely updated drivers) and that I deactivated all of my previous modules using my old system but have not reactivated them into this system (have no idea if that matters). Thanks to all for your advice. Windows 10 Pro 64-bit Processor: Intel® Core i7-4790K CPU @ 4.00GHz (8 CPUs), ~4.0GHz Memory: 16384MB RAM DirectX Version: DirectX 12 Card name: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 Device Name: Joystick - HOTAS Warthog Device: Saitek combat flight pedels

Badass, The description that you provided is exactly what happens in my game. I have a new set-up and wondered if the DirectX 12 was the culperate but after seeing what you wrote, I starting to rethink my problem. All drivers are up to date. Your post was ten days ago, have you found a solution...thanks in advance for your advice. Windows 10 Pro 64-bit Processor: Intel® Core i7-4790K CPU @ 4.00GHz (8 CPUs), ~4.0GHz Memory: 16384MB RAM DirectX Version: DirectX 12 Card name: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 Device Name: Joystick - HOTAS Warthog Device: Saitek combat flight pedels

A side note: when inputting the code make sure to include .\ before the code...example: .\dcs_updater.exe repair It doesn't seem to like .\dcs_updater.exe clean...I got several error messages trying to use that one...with and without .\

Good luck with your project. I flew the UH-60A in the 80's and 90's and would absolutely love to get back into the cockpit of a Blackhawk again. Having an all analog cockpit would be like home to me because that's what I remember...maybe your next project can be the AH-1 Cobra...hint hint...:)

A private message was sent by reflected so I thought I'd answer it here so everyone could benefit from the questions: As far as I understood, you flew Huey’s for real? May I ask a few questions? I'm just a glider pilot, and never even flew in a helicopter, but I'm very, very interested in Huey’s. I read all the Vietnam Huey pilot books I could get my hands on, but none of them go into too much technical detail. Thanks for the advice, flying with 2 fingers did help a lot with my hovers! (I use a FFB stick) Do you use any curves for the cyclic in DCS? What are the biggest, most noticeable differences between DCS and real Huey’s in terms of flight behavior? In real life, how often did you use the force trim button? I'm having a hard time flying the Huey straight. Do you have to apply right pedal for it to go straight at higher speeds? What does a standard approach look like in terms of speed and descent rate? Sorry for flooding you with so many questions, but I'm very much interested in your experience. Thanks a lot in advance, reflected Hi reflected, I will certainly do my best to answer all of your questions. Yes, I spent 16 years flying in the U.S. Army as an Aviation Warrant Officer, flying UH-1's and UH-60's. 1. I don't use curves of any kind with the Huey (or any other DCS aircraft, for that matter). I'm not much of a "computer guy" so I don't know how to set the curves, I participate in DCS more as a pilot and as such don't know if curves would help or hinder the "feel" of the controls but I can tell you that the "default" settings of my Warthog give me the desired feel of the real world UH-1H. All real world pilots (and virtual pilots) use muscle memory when controlling their aircraft. Every pilot has a "feel" that is specific to each control and the default settings of the Warthog are very close to the "feel" that I use to get in the "real" UH-1. 2. Probably the biggest difference between the DCS model and the real world model is the seat of the pants feel that you get in the real aircraft. The flight dynamics of the DCS model are pretty accurate so I get a good "feel" from the control inputs. 3. I rarely used the force trim. I found it taxing at times because I would tend to exert a small amount of pressure on the cyclic that would eventually lead to fighting with the controls without my noticing. Because I preferred fling with my fingertips I didn’t want any resistance (except friction that I had added to the control). The force trim is a good practice during instrument flights to help combat fatigue but I had to remember that it was on during the approach. I have to say for the real world folk out there who are reading this as a “qualifier”…force trim is completely up to the individual pilots taste…some pilots will argue that they can’t fly without it…I say good for them…I didn’t fly with it and most pilots that I knew didn’t. 4. Flying straight and level takes a coordinated effort. Make absolutely sure that the aircraft is in trim. This is probably the biggest issue you’re having. Watch that trim ball. If the aircraft isn’t trimmed, it won’t fly straight. I’m an instructor pilot with the 229th and when I’m training members there are two things that my students will hear me say over and over… don’t touch the collective and watch your trim. Folks who are new to the Huey have a bad habit of “pumping” the collective. Once you’ve set you’re climb, cruise, or decent power setting (torque setting), don’t touch it…leave it alone. Next, watch the trim ball. There is a saying in aviation, “step on the ball”…what that means is…the ball should be centered between the two vertical lines. Step on the pedal corresponding vertical line the ball is crossing. If it’s crossing the left line…step on the left petal…if it’s crossing the right line…step on the right petal. This will trim the aircraft. This works in “ALL” aircraft. 5. A standard approach in a UH-1 should be a “shallow approach”, with a rate of closure that looks like a “brisk walk.” It can be hard to judge an approach angle if I told you it should be between 50 and 70 degrees so I will give you visual ques that are better to understand and have helped me. When you initiate your approach you should identify your landing spot on the ground. It should be an easily identifiable object such as an intersection, truck, runway identifier…anything that you won’t lose track of. Put that landing “spot” approximately 6 inches above the top of your instrument panel. You should have already started to slow the aircraft down from 90 knots (cruise speed) to approach speed. Using your peripheral vision, you should get a “sense” that you are at a brisk walk. You should have this “sensation” throughout the approach. As you get closer the ground, this “sensation” of a “brisk walk” will continue to slow your approach. A proper VMC approach is to the ground…flat pitch (in the real world, ATC might want you to get the heck off the runway so might not allow you to land to the ground). Sorry for being so long winded reflected but I hope I answered your questions (My guys at the 229th think I talk too much too…lol) flyer

I don't use curves of any kind with the Huey (or any other DCS aircraft, for that matter). I'm not much of a "computer guy" so I don't know how to set the curves, I participate in DCS more as a pilot and as such don't know if curves would help or hinder the "feel" of the controls but I can tell you that the "default" settings of my Warthog give me the desired feel of the real world UH-1H. All real world pilots (and virtual pilots) use muscle memory when controlling their aircraft. Every pilot has a "feel" that is specific to each control and the default settings of the Warthog are very close to the "feel" that I use to get in the "real" UH-1.

I've posted in these forums before commenting on the DCS: UH-1H and will again confirm that it fly's remarkably similar to the real world UH-1H. I have over 2200 hours in the U.S. Army flying the UH-1H flew very few hours with the force trim on...mostly while flying instrument flights. As the pilot in the video demonstrated, it doesn't take much movement of the cyclic to redirect the aircraft's direction of flight so very small movements are that are necessary. This is true of the DCS UH-1 too. If you learn to fly with your finger tips (and not grip the cyclic tightly), your skills will improve and your hovering technique will smooth out. I flew in the real world by resting my right hand on the right thigh and flying with just my finger tips, making the smallest of movements...watch this pilots cyclic technique and try to replicate it...you won't be disappointed with your learning curve.

Because I love realism...and the one I have is old

Handled very professionally Poly...I'm sure that you're next DCS entry will bring everybody up-to-date on all of your great projects. Thank you for your continued efforts.

No problems Wags...all relevant news is appreciated when available

I'm glad to see the RL Gazelle pilot are involved and will test the FM. This should help clarify some of the issues that are keeping this from being the best that it can be. As far as coordinated turns and using pedals while making those turns, I can say that when flying the UH-1, very little to no pedal are required when making turns. I flew fixed wing aircraft before becoming a helicopter pilot and that was one of the things that I had to break myself of...using pedals like you do in a coordinated turn with a fixed wing. I've never flown a Gazelle, so I would love to hear a RL pilot say that pedal “is” required in a turn...otherwise, I would defer to my past RL helicopter training and say that pedals should be used very sparingly when making turns. Like some of the other pilots on here have stated, keep the trim ball centered while in straight and level and maintain that trim during the turn (which should require little to no pedal input). I realize, that the current FM requires pedal input to make the turn, but if the Gazelle is anything like other helicopters that I have flown (i.e. UH-1H, UH-60A, AH-1, TH-55 and OH-58D...non of these required the amount of pedal input that the Gazelle FM requires), little to no pedal input should be required to make turns. The Gazelle FM requires pedal input like a fixed wing aircraft but seems to have an erratic component to it that swings the nose around in an un-natural way, which in my opinion, is an issue that needs to be addressed.

Decipher, that was very well put. This lively debate among passionate pilots will get the desired results in the end. The guys at Polychops are watching and reading this stuff...keep the conversation going in a way that's beneficial to creating the best Gazelle we can get.

Yes sir Mr. Charley_Owl...you were one of my best students...

That last YouTube video is a great source of information concerning this thread. All of the helicopters that I have flown have a unique way of coming off of the ground that are common to their type. For instance, after coming light on the skids, the UH-1 will come off of the ground left, rear skid low...in other word, the last part of the aircraft to have contact with the ground is the left rear heal of the skid. The reason that I bring this up is that some of the pilots on this thread are making good points with their descriptions of the Gazelle sliding forward in an undesirable way. There is a good example of a UH-1 taking off to a hover in the same video page [ame] [/ame] All pilots are trained to react to these unique characteristic but they are not overly dramatic like we might find with the Polychop Gazelle. As you can see in the Gazelle video there is a “slight” dip to the nose as the aircraft leaves the ground but it immediately corrects itself into a stable hover. What I see is an aircraft that comes off of the ground slightly right skid nose low and then level out. All Gazelles with this configuration (weight, winds, DA) should come off of the ground in the same basic way. This is what I would expect of an advanced aircraft with a SAS system. This may be critical to the issue and once addressed, I believe the Gazelle will be a nice air frame to fly. P.S. Just as a side note…I’m an Instructor Pilot with my on-line organization (the 229th) and the first thing that I teach my new students when instructing them on stable hovering flight is “coming light on the skids.” Once you’ve achieved control of the aircraft while it’s light on the skids, you can easily come to a steady and stable five foot hover.

My apologies, I'm referring to the start-up steps tutorial in game. My issues were that I skipped steps not realizing that they were key to my problems. After studying the manual it became clear that steps were missed in the start-up procedures...sorry for the confusion...

I really appreciate hearing from the real life Gazelle pilots. Because of my own background as a UH-1/UH-60 pilot in real life, I can judge the feel of the DCS Huey as aerodynamically correct and love to fly it. Based on the DCS Huey’s accuracy, I would assume that the gazelle feels correct using default settings on my flight controls (but I needed to hear this from a real world Gazelle pilot). I have put quite a few hours into learning this light helicopter and have found that it is imperative that the start-up check list be followed to the letter. I was having difficulties in the beginning stabilizing the aircraft believing that the SAS system was fully functioning when in fact I didn’t have the Gyro engaged. After researching the manual, I found that the SAS system works in tandem with the Gyro and without it, it’s more difficult to handle. I’m now actually capable of a stable hover and take-off and I’m getting better and better at flying this great aircraft. What I was finding fault with was actually of my own making so I would advise reading the manual and going through the start-up procedures word-for-word until you get used to it. There are still a few quirky things that I still find odd (I’m finding fewer and fewer oddities)…but now I wonder if some of my initial difficulties might not be in my transitioning technique (from Huey to Gazelle) instead of the flight dynamics built in by the developers. After hearing that the real world Gazelle pilots find this model accurate I can now concentrate on correcting my faults and stop blaming the built-in flight dynamics. Keep up the good work Polychop-Simulation and I’ll keep buying your product

Hi everyone, I thought I’d throw my two cents in here. I flew the UH-1H and UH-60 for sixteen years in the U.S. Army and have over 2000 hours helicopter time. My take on the Polychops SA342M Gazelle is that it certainly is a handful to fly. My opinion is limited to what I know about the Gazelles flight dynamic, by what I have learned flying the SA342 in DCS, so please keep that in mind while reading this. I consider myself a pretty competent Simulator helicopter pilot (i.e. the DCS Huey) and find the Gazelle is very sensitive to cyclic and collective input but not beyond aircraft that I have flown in the real world. However, the aircraft that displayed this type of behavior were smaller and less sophisticated than the Gazelle. I have never flown the Gazelle (in real life) but would assume that being a warbird, the pilot workload would not require such effort on the pilot’s part, so smooth flight dynamics would have been a primary concern (I may be wrong…but I hope not for the real pilots sake). I tried flying the aircraft with and without the trim system on and I found the Gazelle flew with the same ultra-sensitivity and quirky flight dynamics. I felt no difference when I turned on the trim (I even turned it on during a diving turn, hoping to get some kind of a leveling, yawing,or rolling effect..nothing happened). It is important to point out that I have not tweeked my controls at all so that input reactions are from generic settings on my Thrust Master Warthog. My control tweeking theory is that I shouldn’t have to tweek my controls. I should learn each aircrafts nuances as the developer intended them to be good or bad. I do believe that Polychop Simulation is definitely on the right track. Additionally, I know that they are working on all of the issues that are being discussed. What we have to keep in mind is that this is a Beta (all Beta’s are test beds that use end-users as testers) , and as the name implies, this early release is a bug-finding release and this thread is exactly the right thing to do to get the best product in the end. Keep talking about the issues, the guys at Polychops are reading this stuff, digesting it, and fixing things, so it’s the writers here that are going to get a great helicopter to fly in the end…sorry for being long winded…just my two cents.

Always a dream to fly a Stuka...can't wait to get my hands on it Poly_B.

Thanks Sven...always appreciate your updates.

$59.99 for an AFM product does sound a bit high so I think I'll wait for the reviews. It's definitely worth $59.99 when it becomes a PFM (with good reviews). I generally pre-purchase just to support the developers and would do so this time if the price was a bit lower. My fingers are crossed because I would love to have this one.