Sokol1_br

Wires (Power, Data-, Data+, Gnd) are welded, and shield mesh cable have a tab for bolt, see in this picture: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/~4cAAOSwufFcbHKp/s-l1600.jpg

If you get a USB cable for printer, they have better quality, with that ferrite "filter", cut off the B connector and solder the 4 wires + Gnd shield in original positions. Since the cable don't have that molded part for fit in joy case, just put a zip-tie around in the internal part, this prevent pull the cable.

You get BU0836X perhaps? This version is really big for fit inside joysticks and similar. Their 8 axes is due a Windows DInput and games limitation. Buttons could be 128, but when BU0836 was released in 2008 no game support this without keymapper software, so Bodnar want keep simple for DIY users. What means 4.096 "steeps" across a axis movement control, if your collective move ~90 degrees 12 bits resolution means that small adjust possible is 0.021 degrees, your hands can control this very small movement? In practical terms any value above 12 bits is mere marketing, no usable advantage. Anyway most Arduino internal ADC (hardware) used to be 10 bits (1024 "steeps"), so you are exchanging a "dozen by a quart". :D You need ARM32 based Arduino for have... 12 bits. See this topic.

It's a point that baffle me. Mechanically TPR use the same center system seem in Saitek, CH, TFRP pedals, the "tick" that produce a defined center "detent", whose fell is somewhat minimized with rubber stops in TPR. The best expression of this "tick" center system was in VKB RDR pedals an Mamba gimbal, as well in early Slaw pedals and early Baur BRD, in what all contact points use bearings. But all abandoned this mechanics in favor of softness and customization of CAM center system. Early BRD "tick" mechanism: https://forum.warthunder.ru/uploads/monthly_03_2013/post-10412-0-14873000-1364410600.jpg Early VKB "tick" mechanism (mamba): http://vkb-sim.pro/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/gimbal_mk3_2.jpg Then came TPR and suddenly details like mechanics became secondary, because... the "R2D2" look, or "realistic" pendular movement, perhaps? :D

Rel4y have a kit for leave Cougar TQS as standalone device and contacless sensor upgrade for throttle axis. For secondary axis (antenna, range) potentiometer you need rely in Thrutsmaster - if they are available. TQS mini-stick (CTS model) was discontinued in 2015, can replace with Alps but may need some physical alteration in TQS for fit. Opera resume: If you are not a DIY person, sell this TQS "as is" and forget "F-16 throttle" for a while. :D

I guess that by the second time you dismantle one grip for migrate this two adapters for another, will consider buy more adapters. :D Remember that adapter is two parts - one electronic, a small PCB circuit and other mechanical that replace Warthog "neck" and nut. Mechanical part - made for Warthog, fit in F-18 AddOn with some grinding, will fit inside VPC?

Correct, VPC throttle V3 don't came with any kind of detent. Then: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=249484

Just curiosity, what is this "coolie switch" of Warthog no existent in Fighterstick and TWCS?

T-50 grip height under palm rest is like a Warthog grip with 50mm extension, this with 22 degrees (per side) movement of gimbal give you plenty of movement in top of grip. Anyway if go for extension, consider 50mm. VPC's sizes: http://www.havoc-company.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=1386

Yes, their adapter is for make 3rd part grips compatible with their (VKB) base, not for make their base compatible with 3rd part grips. So if you have three 3rd part grips that plan use in VKB base need three adapters. The pre-condition is that this grips work like Warthog grip: Using the same Shift Register controller inside, the electronic part of adapter look for serial protocol send by Shift Register. Although the adapter was made specifically "for Warthog, was used by two persons at least, in F-18 AddOn grip - with some modification. Probable can be used in Cougar grip too. In VPC grip is high improbable that work, even in the electronic part match - VPC grips use Shift Register of Warthog, little chance that the mechanical part of adapter fit inside VPC grips without extensive modifications.

For remove the pressed bearing need a bearing extractor kit. Or " Looks like that used bearings are not "fully compatible with 50 lbs springs + extension + Warthog 1KG grip". :)

Yes, they are magnetoresistive KMZ-41, whose output is in analog mode (voltage variation like a pot'), for just connect in CH original (and obsolete) USB controller, or in BU-0836 or other joystick controller. TLE55010/11 on contrary, have output in digital mode (binary code), hence require support in controller firmware, like MMJoy2, and is not compatible with BU0836 or most of joystick controllers.

Yes, then get the (Rel4y) CH "pot replacement", pot used in CH's has the same format of the ones used in F-16/F22PRO TQS, both are old CTS pot. :thumbup: See bellow in linked topic. Even the small version (for Cougar TQS) can be adapted, just will be not "plug-n-play".

For use with Arduino PRO Micro/Micro/Teensy 2.0/++2.0 and MMjoy2 firmware, can use TLE5010 sensor, that you find assembled in PCB, read to use, in Aliexpress.. Other option, look in Rel4y topic the about sensors he sell, or in GVL224 topics for "MagREZ" sensor. Both cost around $10. If want the cheap option possible ($1-2), but a bit PITA for centralize sensor relative do magnetic field, get: Honeyweel SS495A1 Allegro A-1324 LUAT

Easy to use (is like a potentiometer): Bi-Tech 6120 series - get the model whose "effective electrical angle" is closer to your collective's movement (degrees). Example: 6127V1A60L.5 The "60" near end of model code means 60º of "effective electrical angle". See in datasheet other degree options available. For magnet search "neodymium ring magnets diametrically magnetized".

"Andres" version (JetSeat) was made by Gametrix - rumor say that no longer produced, probable he have stock. Realteus seems a budget version of JetSeat - initially they are linked in Gametrix page. So no reason for buy Realteus instead "Andres" JetSeat, unless this last became unavailable.

You can fix - and improve, the original button placing a OMRON B3F 12x12mm tactile switch in place of their cheap "membrane swtich", the green PCB in the picture: Or - as alternative for (expensive) OTO P-11111 (4l bs actuation force) or P-11211 (2.5 lbs) look for one of this buttons: Eaton 1XX: 4 lbs. NKK MB2000: 2 lbs. Apem 8000: 1.8 lbs. Knitter MPS103: 0.7 lbs.

JoyTokey, XPadder, Joystick Gremlin... allow divide an axis in bands and send keypress. MMjoy2 JoySetup allow set a axis band for press a button (is done in firmware, like in VirPil/VKB's).

A very good option, but will eat a bit more than your budget = 290 + 230 (EURO). Anyway you can keep using X-52 throttle until buy a new throttle.

VirPil joy + throttle will cost more ~twice this budget. In this price range the natural option Warthog HOTAS - if already have a rudder pedal, buy may find a combo that include TFRP rudder (the cheap rudder option of market). Anyway both cost £448,48 in Amazon.uk Or VKB Gunfighter base + SCG Premuium grip = 323 (Euro) or MCG PRO = 339 (Euro) plus Thrustmaster TWCS throttle ~73 (EURO), this throttle have "paddles" as "ad hoc" rudder or use SCG grip embedded "twist rudder".

Luck that B-8 grip is just 5 buttons + trim HAT, because the "Alien" inside SGC is a bit complicated: :D https://i.redd.it/m9227gw6wbd21.jpg

If you have a Warthog or Virpil base, buy the F-18 AddOn grip. Suncom SFS throttle is easy for modernize for USB, that can be done with cheap ~$6 Arduino PRO micro and few welding. Suncom F-15 joystick should be the same, but from practical point of view is practically impossible to use with sensor that not their original proprietary format potentiometer, due their "oscillatory disc" gimbal. Since their pot's are too old good change that worm out and so gimbal useless. So rest the "F-15" grip that can be adapted for use in bases like Warthog and Virpil, need change the interior wiring.

Game controls see as VKB, the grip (f-18 AddOn) don't have controller circuit with firmware and VID/PIP, just a shift register PCB, is "brailess", so their identity is given by the base used.

I guess that will be more easy: Buy an VKB adapter and Shift Register PCB for Warthog and install both in this B-8 grip than use "guts" of SGC, because insides are based all in interlocking PCB's.

Normally potentiometer is the culprit. Before replace try clean the old - inside, spray their case outside with contact cleaner is "placebo". The model used is probable CTS series 251 - 251B12T104A2NB is used in twist of T.16000M. https://br.mouser.com/datasheet/2/96/251-1147030.pdf