Sokol1_br

Then, the options is Warthog throttle ($280) or VPC T50 CM throttle (€320). Or an used Saitek X-55/56 if find in eBay or similar places, but with good chance in get a "lemon". But since you are satisfied with VKB stick, why just don't replace the pot of CH throttle (~$5 in Digikey) what require use just a Philips screwdriver and pliers, and await VKB TCS throttle release - with luck at end of this year, more probable in the next.

Or install a ForceSense sense kit: https://vipergear.eu/product/vipergear-force-sensor-vfs/#reviews http://www.realsimulator.com/html/fssb_r3_lighting.html

More pictures of this "springless" T.16000M.

Then, worth more invest in fix Cougar major flaw, their gimbal (any resemblance to Warthog's issues seems to be more than just coincidence). :) https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=195464

An option is remove the spring and put - externally, a rubber boot, this keep grip more or less centralized. For example, this with metal ball gimbal don't use spring, just the boot. http://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/uploads/monthly_08_2015/post-683-0-56808800-1439970591.jpg

Yes, ViperGear is a HALL sensor replacement kit. Cougar TQS don't work if not plugged in Cougar joystick base, since has no PCB controller inside, hence in you don't own a Cougar stick and plan use TQS with another joystick (Warthog, VPC, VKB...) need a USB controller, external or internal. TUSBA is the more easy option to have one, is an external device that is "plug'n'play", install automatically, using Windows HID drivers.

CubPilot HALL kit (with Midori HALL sensor) is no longer available, the manufacturer pass away years ago. BTW - Original TQS pot (CTS) is no longer manufactured, but may find in old stock, an similar is available (used in T.16000M twist rudder) but need pole adaptation for use in TQS. https://br.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CTS-Electronic-Components/251B12T104A2NB/?qs=6E8igxPflKdliaNMymwp6A%3D%3D But - if have DIY skill, can use the relatively affordable (~$20) Bi-Tech 6127V160 or 40 HALL sensor - same potentiometer format and is installed like CubPilot kit with R/C linkages. Other option is GVL224 MagREZ sensor (~$10), see their sales topic there. Or Rel4y sensor (same KMZ41 of GLV224 MagREZ) - but this guy have "forum post rights" suspended. https://forums.eagle.ru/member.php?u=116928 An user review: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=225733 Or even a simple Honeywell SS495A1 or Allegro A1324EUAT do the pot job, but is PITA position the sensor correctly centered relatively to magnet, due their high sensitivity. Original TQS mini- stick (CTS ) is no longer manufactured, you need adapt a similar, eg. ALPS RKJXV1224005 (used in Deltaalphalima1 upgrade for Warthog "slew"). https://www.alps.com/prod/info/E/HTML/MultiControl/Potentiometer/RKJXK/RKJXV1224005.html Or this CTS https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/joystick-switches/1234587/

If have DIY skill, can do this yourself with an ~$5 Arduino PRO Micro flashed with MMjoy2 firmware ("cousin" of VPC firmware), that allow you set VID/PID and deceive TARGET - case use this software is important for you. And instead pot can use a Bi-Tech 6127 HALL sensor for throttle axis, installed in a similar way to CubPilot kit (no longer available).

In the il2.ru forum it was said that VKB "deskmount" should have base plate compatible with the main joysticks and throttles of the market - except for VPC T50 (side mount), price should be in a range in middle of market options. An recent prototype: Just in "two months, be sure!". :D Can if you re-bore the base plate or make an new one like some users did for Gunfighter, VPC don't offer base plate compatible with VKB's.

Use two, three or more different brands of controllers (even the same type, e.g. joystick) don't create conflicts in modern games, is matter of correct assignment of controls. Joystick Gremlin software allow combine different brands of controllers in one virtual - if this is important for you.

Probable this version is "brainless" (like X-52 stick or X-45 throttle), and will be need an USB controller (Arduino, BU0836, DSD 12...) between the throttle and USB cable. An $5 Arduino PRO Micro solve this, but is an extra DIY work.

Is the ground wire from PCB, see in the above linked video:

A compact load cell 22x8x5 mm http://sensortransducer-com.sell.everychina.com/p-106797749-mini-load-cell-2kg-3kg-5kg-6kg-10kg-small-size-load-cell-sensor.html

Teensy LC is an good hardware (CORTEX), the guy seems have a functional joystick code - that you can simplify leaving only one axis, one button - for games/planes that don't allow set axis for "wheel brakes". https://forum.pjrc.com/threads/33785-Teensy-LC-Joystick-Controller-USB-problems?p=100907&viewfull=1#post100907

An example from avia-sim.ru forum, a brake lever using contactless sensor (GVL224 MagREZ). Can use HALL sensor like Honeweell SS495A1 or Allegro A1324EUAT instead, both work in analog mode, and can be used in a small and cheap (~$5) Arduino PRO Micro with MMjoy2* firmware. http://avia-sim.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=759&start=180#p30661 This bolt coming out of box allow some adjust spring lever tension. *Can use some Arduino joystick sketch, but MMjoy2 firmware allow configure just one axis if want and has filter, inversion, calibration and axis curves adjusts embed. But can make a code for Arduino supporting load cell - instead buy a relatively expensive BU-0836LC. An potentiometer is not practical for a brake lever due the small angle of movement of lever, what implicates use gears in pot, making the assembly big. Like in Glolin solution, an DIY brake lever. I did some attempts with bicycle brakes lever and find them a bit cumbersome. But Aliexpress has nice models - case don't like of one in the rusty bicycle in nearest post. :) This "brake lever" for electric scouter have electrical connection, seems for clutch control - probable and ON-OFF button, maybe an option: https://www.banggood.com/Aluminum-Brake-Handle-Brake-Lever-Protection-Cover-For-Xiaomi-Electrical-Scooter-Replacement-Part-p-1354203.html?cur_warehouse=CN

3 - Open campaign missions in Mission Editor, lower AI skill and save with another name.

Probable X-45 controller resolution is 8 bits like CH because they are contemporaneous products - of end of 90's of last century. :D The issue with your X-45 is because their potentiometer's are worn out due use (happens with all pot'), then reading became very erratic. CH's are subject to this to since use pot, but their pot have better quality (CTS brand) and CH provide replacement (now selling in Digikey). Other than pot worn out no issues with CH's, that are really durable - I have an CH Combatstick bough in 1998 that - now updated for USB (DIY), still "bullet proof". If eventually their controller axes low resolution (8 bits - 256 "steeps") bother you, with an $5 Arduino PRO Micro you can update for 10 bits easy (12 bits with extra component), wiring only the axes in Arduino. So don't miss a good deal due this peculiarities.

Is OK pair TWCS with Fighterstick specially now that CH Manager is practically broken under Windows 10, and this software used be CH biggest plus, due script support. Anyway, depends on use. CH PRO Throttle have two more buttons than Tm TWCS (16 x 14). TWCS has two more axes than PRO Throttle (5 x 3). TWCS has a paddle suitable for control rudder - if don't use rudder pedal or twist stick rudder, or can be mapped for send two or more keypress. TWCS is suitable to "stiction" in their (not so) S.M.A.R.T. metal rails, PRO Throttle rail is just a loose plastic "drawer". :) Usually Elite Dangerous/Star Citizen players prefer mini-stick under thumb (PRO Throttle), better for "6DOF flight". And jet's pilot prefer mini-stick under index finger (TWCS) because leave thumb for simultaneous "multi-task". Until VKB release their teaser'ed TECS, supposedly in $200-250 price range, TWCS is a good lsolution "ad-hoc". CH F-16 Fighterstick main drawback is the low resolution in axes (8 bits - 256 "steps") what can be easily improve for 10 bits (1.024 "steps", 4 times more) with an cheap ($5) Arduino.

Paddle lever use varies if (USAF) aircraft are on ground or in air, and if other automation are ON, examples: F-15: F-18: Nose wheel disengage Autopilot disengage G limit override switch F-14: Autopilot emergency disengage

Can use TARGET software (or similar, e.g. JoyTokey...) for map the command (Ctrl+L) for Switch ON and for Switch OFF state. Or try manually editing LUA files, adding command for "up": -- Systems {combos = {{key = 'L', reformers = {'RShift'}}}, down = iCommandPowerOnOff, up = iCommandPowerOnOff, name = _('Electric Power Switch'), category = _('Systems')}, https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=89226 But since the command is OnOff (toggle) you need synchronize the switch (in throttle) with game mission start: if is air start or take-off leave up before hit 'fly', if is cold start leave down. The downside is that game updates broken changes in LUA.

"Extension box". :) https://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/uploads/monthly_2018_08/WP_20180815_09_05_23_Pro.thumb.jpg.627b51715507c9508103a7f22bee3705.jpg

Similar topic, may the OP have success: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=241291 Anyway the "mix" should be "easy" to do, all 3 Saitek pedal models use the same base.

Collect? I have 4 or 5 Suncom - one I buy (used), others donated, soon or latter they will end in "recycle bin". :) Leave the HAT as 4 way. 8 ways HAT are useful back in time when flight games cockpit don't have 3D and are need use snap views. IMHO - Use a HAT diagonal for some command is not practical because sometimes one of two buttons necessary for generate the diagonal is pressed before and the result is not what is expected.

An guy posted in SimHQ that CH inform then that potentiometers (and pot' actuation levers and knobs) used in CH controls is now available in Digikey. https://www.digikey.com/products/en/computer-equipment/accessories/881?k=&pkeyword=&sv=0&v=1040&sf=0&FV=ffe00371&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25 REPPOT604 - ? REPPOT615 - for quadrant throttle levers. REPPOT632 - ?

JoyToKey do the trick, for the used button/switch set for: Press "L-Ctrl+E" and set "Auto repeat" 3 times (or more) per second. But I test setting 3 different keys (A,S,D) for "Eject" and send then simultaneous with JoyToKey and work, can test just pressing in keyboard. Each key send the "eject" command one time. So if you are using a dedicated USB controller for your ejection handle can waste 3 buttons position - wired all in the same switch, so avoid use software. But since you are build a ejection handle the solution proposed by Miles D is more "elegant", is like your initial simplified but with just one switch. :D Thing is that LUA files only define what key/button will execute the command (Eject), the instruction for await 3 keypress is not there, but hard-coded in game code. {combos = {{key = 'E', reformers = {'LCtrl'}}}, down = iCommandPlaneEject, name = _('Eject (3 times)'), category = _('Systems')},