Sokol1_br

What you mean with "needs a little more setup"?

;) https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/462781222888669184/617834532997038151/unknown.png

Paddle style Warthog (stick*) for F16FLCS, F22 PRO: https://www.shapeways.com/product/D9SZS78EP/left-hand-paddle-lever-for-cougar-flcs-and-f22?optionId=63427520 * Real A-10 Warthog grip don't have paddle attached to grip.

Interesting, but the top part looks out of proportion, no? :)

Well, I have seen some drawings suitable for 3D Printer, but never for a functional multi-buttons grip that don't look a "Frankenstein" toy. The problem is the details, like buttons, trigger and HAT's.

Is need check datasheet for see if are differences in physical size of the old and the ALPS, differences that may need open more the fixation hole, or use some shim under the new. Datasheet of original (discontinued) CTS 252A104B60NB https://br.mouser.com/datasheet/2/96/252-1329.pdf ALPS RKJXV1224005 (used in Deltaalphalima1 mod for Warthog slew). https://datasheet.octopart.com/RKJXV1224005-ALPS-datasheet-37145128.pdf

https://forum.virpil.com/uploads/monthly_2019_09/CE_12.png.29dd5e3196ae0b038555c80c37cc60d6.png - Left and Right hand variants (Non-ambidextrous) - 1 x Dual-stage trigger - 1 x Dual Position Flip Trigger (tactile switch trigger + proximity sensor to detect UP position) - Combination Trigger Stages - flip trigger and dual stage trigger and be pressed simultaneously as a combined trigger for additional trigger stages. Combined trigger action is initiated by index finger actuating both triggers at the same time. * - 1 x Analogue Stick (+ Push) - 3 x 5-way Hats (4-way + Push) - 1 x 3-way Hats (2 way + Push) - 3 x Momentary buttons - 1 x Brake lever (VPC Contactless Sensor) + Momentary button - 1 x Scroll Encoder (+ Dual Push) - Lockable Twist Axis (VPC Contactless Sensor) - Adjustable Hand Rest * Probable similar to Cobra M5 dual trigger:

You want a grip with more buttons for you "BI8" cyclic? Just buy a used CH Figherstick in Ebay and use their grip, is 16 buttons + POV HAT, will cost less than 3D print a grip and install switches and HAT - part not available, unless $80+ "military" models. But, keep in mind that the controller on your "BI8" need support the extra buttons of the new grip, or you end need use a Arduino, Bu0836 for manage extra buttons, what make you cycle two controllers for Windows and games. In this case became interesting get any of VirPil grips, that is easy connect in Arduino PRO Micro + MMJoy2 firmware for serial protocol for grip Shift Register.

The original CTS mini-stick used in Cougar QTS was discontinued in ~2015. As replacement use ALPS RKJXV1224005, may require some adaptation due slight different size. Or some "PS4" mini-stick from eBay.

In VKB DevCfg you can set that trigger fire different weapons based on weapon selector switch selector position, what will be interesting for mimic BoK Hs 129 KG-14 trigger selector, if the trigger operation of this plane in the game was not "dumb down for gameplay purposes".

Well, is just ~$30. https://www.instructables.com/id/Logitech-3D-Extreme-Pro-Hall-Effect-Sensor-Convers/

Yes, all is true, but with patience several people of this forum manage get one. ;) Warthog is much more easy to buy.

You mean the HAT in middle of left side of grip? This piece you can buy only from Thrustmaster, or buy a expensive "military" type from OTTO - see in Mouser. But you can replace the micro-switches inside, look for OMRON B3F series, 6x6mm, not sure about high, if possible measure the originals.

Of course, in features and price. :D But if price is not problem, give a look in VKB and VirPil options. Maybe this avoid want upgrade again latter. ;) For example you can get T50CM or WarBRD base from VirPil and Warthog grip only from Thrustmaster (seems ~$180 now) and combine both.

This symptoms suggest a bad potentiometer "spiking", a common issue in T.16000M "twist rudder". If re-calibrate - use Tm software or DView, and set deadzones don't mitigate the problem. :joystick: Option 1 - Open the grip, remove the potentiometer from "twist" mechanism, open pot case - caution or end destroing then, clean the resistive trail with Isopropyl Alcohol (liquid or spray), reassemble - caution with wires, or grip shelves can smash some wires. This is a palliative, soon or latter the problem return, is inherent of potentiometer. Example of how is done this inside cleanup: Spray the outside of pot case outside cleanup spray is placebo. Option 2 - Replace the potentiometer, the model used is CTS 251B12T104A2NB, is need weld three wires. Option 3 - Replace the pot with Hall sensor - DIY, require tools, skill and patience. Option 4 - Buy a dedicated rudder pedal :D or sell this stick as is and buy Gladiator Mk.II their twist axis use contacless sensor, free of spiking issues.

This cable has a removable plug in one of the controls or they are just "tied" together?

Repeating myself: "Of entry level joysticks (up to $100) Gladiator is the best option, being the main differential the use contactless sensor (MaRS) in X, Y and twist rudder axis. T16000M use contactless sensor (Hall) only in X, Y axis." Adding that T.16000M (option more close to Gladiator in price) use potentiometer in twist rudder (Z axis) that soon or later cause this: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=4022218#post4022218 Plus, Gladiator use the best electronic controller used in joysticks, the same Njoy32 controller used in their rich cousin Gunfigther, with a high configurable firmware.

Mazez, QC aside, problem in dual trigger switches is easy to diagnostic. Open the grip (I know, one don't should need do this in a brand new $400...) and press the micro switch direct, using a screwdriver or something. Is high probable that micro-switch is OK, but the trigger lever are not pressing the micro-switch sufficient - a millimeter fraction less can cause problem, in this case just glue a very thin layer of plastic over the trigger lever tip and the needed movement is reinstated. I have fixed CH and TH fault micro switch in this way.

Pilot905 T.16000M is the best option up to $60. But VKB Gladiator Mk.II is the best option up to $90-100, with differential of use contactless sensor (VKB MaRS) in twist axis, and have better usability due "pinky" button on grip.

I don't have this luck, T.16000M green twist pot became bad with ~6 mounts of low/moderated use. The potentiometer used - 251B12T104A2NB, is the same in green or orange models.

AFAIK - No part of T.16000M or TWCS used to break- in normal use, like can happen with their "rich cousin". Most "break" complains is about the potentiometer of twist axis in T.16000M causing spikes after some use. In throttle the major complain is stiction in throttle rails.

Since PS2 connector require only 5 wires, remove - using a needle, the metal pins with wires from the they new (wrong) cable, insert in original connector, solder the wires in accord.

Well, inside F-18 grip are the same "neck" of Warthog (that breaking unpainted metal part) and same electronic - CD4021 Shift Register, just with slight different format in PCB, of Warthog: https://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/uploads/monthly_2019_08/TM_F18_01.jpg.5e994dcb3a2afbc2c6ff823859838ebf.jpg So you don't need an specific VKB "F-18 adapter", just use their Warthog adapter - when/if became available again. BTW - I remember an buyer posting that when dismantling Warthog grip for install this adapter he end destroying some parts, and complain that the process required by VKB adapter are "difficult". :crazy: :joystick: :mad: Maybe VKB end burned with the bad marketing and fix the problem: removing this option for good (they did this, for similar reasons, with NJoy32 for DIY). :D

Keep an eye there and be "triggerhappy" is availability change from (aged) "ESTIMATED NEXT BATCH RELEASE: TO BE DETERMINED BY VKB HQ". ;)

Of entry level joysticks (up to $100) Gladiator is the best option, being the main differential the use contactless sensor (MaRS) in X, Y and twist rudder axis. T16000M use contactless sensor (Hall) only in X, Y axis. T.16000M don't break physically (Warthog gimbal is that can break), what happens is that their twist rudder potentiometer worn out and cause headache, see in Reddit/hotas complains about. Reason for invest a it more in Gladiator twist rudder contacless sensor. Gladiator grip, although based on German KG-12A 4 buttons grip, has more functionality that T.16000M 4 buttons + POV HAT grip, because Gladiator has "shift"button, making the a 8 buttons grip = 2 physical and 6 virtual, but their POV HAT is very awkward, and for modern jets you will want more buttons on stick.