Sokol1_br

;) http://theseger.com/projects/2014/04/converting-old-joysticks/

RustBelt, Strange, in this topic Debolestis say that their Shift Register PCB fit: https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2789660&postcount=13 Anyway that topic OP use Thrustmaster Shift Register PCB removed from Warthog grip, an option (buy an PCB from Tm). Unfortunately the picture of inside grip are not working anymore. https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=2786922

First you need clear the "auto-assignments" for avoid this situation: And then set controls under each control name column.

Yes, you are right in say that Cougar is nor advisable for one what just want "plug and play" - despite all "fuzzi-uzi" about in their heydays. But since OP talk in DIY, depends on price he get a Cougar - that meet their premise of being based in USAF, is and good option for DIY upgrade. DIY an grip, even with 3D Printer probable will ending costing more than buy an Warthog grip ( ~$120 time ago).

Nice job. You need place an bearing (conical needle type is better) in magnet axis, because sensor pick any axial play there. Here with Honeywell SS495A1 Hall sensor was used an (ball) bearing removed from old HDD: https://i.postimg.cc/13jRxFFH/CH-PRO-Pedal-HALL-sensor.jpg An similar "mod': http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4476385/ch-pro-pedal-tle-5010-rudder-axis#Post4476385

"Fixable": https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=195464 ;)

Can have both:

Good part of people that venture in open joy/throttle grips has "screwed" things in the same way. :)

I vote for VKB Gladiator Mk.II (grip "inspired" KG-12A Luftwaffe ) plus Tm TCWS throttle (somewhat F-18 "inspired - then 50% of "based on US fighter" premised is fulfilled :D) as sub $200 HOTAS. An plus of Gladiator Mk.II over T.16000M use contacless sensor (MaRS) in twist axis, instead cheap potentiometer.

VPC pedals dimensions in this topic of IL-2 Sturmovik forum: https://forum.virpil.com/index.php?/topic/650-%D1%80%D0%B0%D0%B7%D0%BC%D0%B5%D1%80%D1%8B-%D0%B8-%D0%BA%D0%BE%D0%BC%D0%BF%D0%BE%D0%BD%D0%BE%D0%B2%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D1%83%D1%81%D1%82%D1%80%D0%BE%D0%B9%D1%81%D1%82%D0%B2-virpil-controls/&do=findComment&comment=5045

Debolestis Shapeways store: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/debolestis Rel4y Shapeways store: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rel4y-diy-joystick-flight-simming Thingiverse Warthog related files (for 3D Printer): https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=thrustmaster+warthog&dwh=125d2211f96714d E.g. "Finger lifts": https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3519317 Gimbal "sphere": https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3366187

JimRNJ MMJoy2 firmware was done for connect buttons through matrix (up to 10x10), depends on used board, and "shift register"circuit, hence you can't use other method. An Arduino PRO Micro support up to 6x6 matrix since have few input pins. https://sites.google.com/site/mmjoyproject/_/rsrc/1472856359410/kontrollery-sovmestimye-bazovye-platy/Pins_Sparkfun%5Bpromicro%5D.PNG Then, in MMJoySetup set a simple 6 x 1 matrix* - just inform what pins are used by columns and what pin is use for row. Notice that pins number are not the ones printed in Arduino board, but the ones of above scheme (don't ask why). Something like this: Or this (adjust columns and rows pins numbers in MMJoySetup): So you can use up to 6 buttons without use diode or have shared/crossed wires, except the row wire that is common for all 6 buttons with simple wiring. Not sure if work but theoretically can try set 10x1, what allow use up to 10 buttons. In MMJoySetup 10 is the number maximum of pins that can be used for column or row.

An clarification, joysticks don't use HAT with 8 physical buttons (tactile micro switches), but just with 4. An "8 way POV HAT" is the controller firmware translating 2 nearest buttons (of 4 buttons HAT) pressed simultaneous as diagonals, achieving "8 ways". Hence Talon 4 (switches) HAT is OK for use as 4 way or 8 way. All you need know and parts you need get is described in this (Debolestis) topic: https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2943388&postcount=113 Read that topic carefully, you will do the exact same thing, just in different grip. Then disassemble Talon grip, de-solder or cut all wires from original PCB near existing switches. "Easy, fast, ugly way" - without make or buy an new PCB for top HAT buttons, but re-using the original: Take a X-Acto hobby knife (or similar) or a Dremel cut disk (or similar) and cut all PCB trails in original PCB. This will leave all buttons (switches) non interconnected and you can use the small button (selector) as just an additional button. Now for each existing switch (HAT use 4) solder the two wires of cables with connector mentioned in above linked topic (parts). Assure that cables length reach the "shift register" PCB that will be placed lower inside grip. Place the "shift register" PCB (2 chips) inside grip and plug in then the cables with connector soldered in switches. Now fit the new 3D printed "neck" and the Warthog compatible nut grip base and assembly the PS2 connector per link instructions, connecting their 5 wires in "shift register" PCB output connections. Done, your F-15'ish grip is now compatible with Warthog (Cougar and VPC) base. Drawback: The switch in left side, middle of grip in original Suncom is just a press button, case you don't replace then with a 5 way Alps switch. And Suncon original HAT's is a bit "mushy" due a spring under caps. "Neat way" - Buy new PCB for top of grip (from Debolestis) or DIY one, buy Alps 8 way switches (ironically they will be wired as 4 buttons), and solder the new switches in the new PCB include one in middle/left of grip - now you can use this switch as 3 way like in original.

X-52 PRO was release in ~2006 trying address some complains about X-52 "vanilla", like non linearity response in X, Y axes*, weak spring - at time are popular the "CD cover mod" for add tension in X-52 springs. Besides an less "Star Wars" visual, PRO came with HAT caps in metal, two HALL sensor per axis (X, Y) - but with less resolution, seems 10 instead 11 (contrary to advertise) and two concentric springs in center system: "High resolution, absolute linearity and enhanced non-contact technology on Stick X and Y axes improve responsiveness and control, while the new dual concentric spring centering mechanism progressively increases resistance, just as it would in a real aircraft." Improve things a bit, but accord some people at time barely noticeable in practice. * The DIY "magnet mod" address this axis response linearity issue. http://www.berkuts.ru/forum/showthread.php?t=142 http://www.berkuts.ru/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=377&d=1212860420

Nazgul, Gladiator PRO "Mk.I" (although it is not called that way) difference for Gladiator PRO Mk.II (official name), is just an new trigger made in semi-flexible Policarbonate plastic in Mk.II to address the problem of broken trigger (<2%) in Gladiator/Gladiator PRO ("Mk.I"), and a new packing box with DCS logo. https://vkbcontrollers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/VKB-Sim-Gladiator-MkII-Announcement.pdf

Seems that CAM bearing are pressed against bolt. Try applying WD-40 or similar in the contact of bolt and bearing, await some time, then hold the CAM an hit top of bolt with a wooden or hard plastic piece - don't use metal hammer direct in bolt, can deform their tip and prevents fit the nut after.

https://forum.virpil.com/index.php?/topic/706-finger-lifts-in-software/&do=findComment&comment=5305

More that need of "warm-ups" this buttons failures suggest that wires of cables going for grip are partially broken, contact Thrustmaster and see if sell a replacement wiring harness.

If by "MCG PRO base" you mean Gunfighter base: No, Gladiator PRO base is not better than Gunfighter base that came bundled with MCG and MCG PRO grips, without and with 20 cm extension. Gunfighter base is only one model. Gunfighter base was developed after a case of Black Mamba user damage their gimbal adding 2 strong springs per axis + 20cm extension + 1 KG of Warthog grip. :joystick: Notice that Mamba base already use metal box, obvious more reinforced than Gladiator PRO base made in plastic, since Gladiator PRO is just "vanilla" Gladiator with gimbal upgrade (CAM, metal). Seems inherit Mamba gimbal with some modifications. Gladiator PRO gimbal: https://i.imgur.com/RPZJkjf.jpg Gunfighter gimbal (prototype, final version use Nylon clamps in "dry-cluth"). http://i.imgur.com/wZe8bYd.jpg Gunfighter gimbal are more reinforced than Mamba/Gladiator PRO gimbal for better support for 20 cm extension and 2 strong springs per axis, damper ("dry-clutch") system and don't have USB controller inside, use the external "BlackBox", and yet, "people being people" in their "Quest for the Feel Simulator", things goes South. ;) MCG PRO grip although listed compatible - what is, with Gladiator PRO base is not recommended for this base because this grip is more tall, and the greater leverage due this extra height will stress more the plastic case designed for KG-12A grip. https://i.postimg.cc/MZm7QZpS/Gl.jpg And this extra height of grip make their use less ergonomic in desktop, so fast someone will think in use extension for mid placement, worsening more the things for the poor plastic case... :) Kosmosima grip is designed for desktop use, have the minimal height possible for a grip with multiple HAT's, being the recommended upgrade for Gladiator PRO - and "vanilla" with the (non realease yet) "X" upgrade. BTW: We are talking in "recommend", not in "forbidden". ;)

Best option is Real Simulator - who used make mods for Cougar and Wartog and now offer complete joystick - ForceSense base + F-16 or F-18 grips in aluminium with more functions per button. They have years of experience with ForceSense. http://www.realsimulator.com/

If you mean a switch similar to this in P-40 (~16:10), I guess you don't find this in electronics stores. Or use a rotary switch in place or DIY one. For one like in P-40, up-center-right-left by combining a momentary (ON)-OFF toggle switch 2 and (ON)-OFF-(ON) switch and a 3D printed support can mimic this operation. https://i.postimg.cc/bv9s0HKh/MON-ON-sw-itch.jpg Or adapt one this: https://www.adafruit.com/product/3758 But P-51 weapons switch looks more a (inverted) "Y" switch. https://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/upload/iblock/ba7/dcs_2014-09-20_17-24-21-62_1.jpg Back in Ka-50 "hedays" a guy DIY solution: https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=460145&postcount=210 https://forums.eagle.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=14070&d=1199471687 https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=473205&postcount=224

The best for joystick is Nyogel 767A dampening grease. VKB use similar product in Gladiator Mk.II (non PRO) gimbal. Here the guy used (in TWCS) lithium grease: Here silicone grease: When use Nyogel 767A:

$0.50? VKB say that in batch of 1000+ for industry "joystick pot" cost $ 0.1 or less. :)) Original Sony gamepads use HALL sensor. If you want only the gamepad thumbsticks with HALL sensor they are available in Aliexpress, eBay, is the model with 4 wires per axis.

I any case look inside, are 4 bolts holding a plate that keep gimbal and spring in place (see in the above linked video), look if some are not loose, this can cause play in gimbal "ball". But this bolts position is trick, if are tight much or less will shift the position of magnet relative to HALL sensor, and may the sensor reading end before gimbal move all the way - my T.16000M (old green model) came with this "end course mechanical deadzone" from factory, happens with another users too, are a old topic there about.

Nothing to by tighten for "fix" T.16000M gimbal, the play is due plastic parts wear. Increase spring tension, possible with MOD like for X-52 - but installed inside, will increase the wear rate. T.16000M gimbal is a low cost version of Warthog gimbal. Ralf Alley did a good comparison (with pro and cons) of VPC WarBRD gimbal and Warthog gimbal.