huzar

You've got my full attention, Miles.

Thanks!

Completed throttle: I have added a number of switches to the base and encoder instead of mode switch. But biggest changes were done to the right throttle: - added analog thumb slew; - mouse nipple was replaced with 4-way hat switch; - top hat and slider were replaced with 2-way switches; - bottom potentiometer was replaced with encoder; - two 5-way hat switches on the front instead of single buttons; - additional single switch on the front of the throttle. Have been using it for over 2 months now and it's working great. My only gripe is with analog slew, it's not very precise and requires crazy amount of deadzone and curves in DCS settings. Also I'm not sure about current placement, maybe on the front would be better. And my current project::pilotfly:

I have just received mine and tested it on Virpil extension. It's a very tight fit but works, 10 seconds with dremel and brass brush resolved the issue.

+1

Brilliant!

And you can't buy 0.75 MDF in Europe... There is no easy way around the problem, someone will have to redraw the plans. Don't want to sound negative, I appreciate your work, especially as it's open source. If only it was that simple, you can't buy 19.05mm MDF so you will have to redesign all elements to accomodate for 18mm panels. 1mm doesn't sound much but it adds up with every element.

Ouch, engineering project in imperial system. That will stop anyone not in US from using your plans, as you can't simply recalculate dimmensions...

VZ_342, did you look at mmjoy2? Easier then hacking a real keyboard.

Thanks! Very helpful, waiting for more!

You can do this using mmjoy2, it's possible to configure the toggle switch to simulate a single button press while switching to ON position and second button press while switching it OFF. Then in DCS settings setup first button for electrical power ON and second for OFF.

Internals of the left throttle. It has mouse scroll with press button, paddle switch instead of original boat switch, left encoder has been replaced with potentiometer, additional front button and 2-way momentary switch on the left side. I didn't expect that wiring will take so much time. But I'm slowly getting there!

12 days to finish the throttle!

Yes, looks like it's a brick. It's possible that only the stick was affected, years ago there was lighting strike near my house, it fried my wireless keyboard and damaged network port on MB but everything else was fine.

Cough... TOW... MILAN...:music_whistling: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wire-guided_missile

+1

I wonder if the issue is related to poor 1.5.7 performance. I haven't seen such bad warping since the last changes to net code (2 years ago or so).

This mechanism doesn't work very well, springs tension cancel each other out near the center and leave big dead zone, which going to be even worse with a dumper.

I have it done like that (magnet glued to the nut) and I haven't noticed any issues. I didn't test it in any scientific way, but as far as I can tell it works linearly throughout whole movement.

I have not yet seen a well designed, precise and good looking wooden pedals plus wood will wear and loose integrity rather quickly. It just not worth it when you spend so much time on designing, building, materials, tools etc. And my free time is the most valuable item in this equation. How did you design your cam profile? It was one thing I straggled with and at the end I opted for simpler centering mechanism. And I'm afraid your design for pedal brakes won't work very well, the upper rod will just twist under the load. I think the gas strut should be mounted directly to the pedal and then somehow fixed to the arm.

It's what I'm doing as well and have modified my throttle to have mouse wheel that can be pressed for left click. Only to find out after trying F-5 that I need right button as well :joystick:

Thanks Sokol, in fact it was one of your post where I found about the MLX chip. A bit too late as the stick was almost done and I was in hurry to finish before Harrier release.

The ergonomics is my biggest complain as well, the stick was designed for vikings I think :lol: The hand rest is just a piece of foam cut to the shape of the stick fixed with double sided tape. The cutting is a bit crude but it's more comfortable then plastic. I can't remember where I got this foam from, IIRC it was packaging of some AV device, but it's very firm and doesn't give up much under the weight of a hand. Before I fixed the extension I had a twist mechanism in place as it helps keep the joystick together, just disconnected wires from the pot and used them for the lever.

Fiddly 4-way switches were fixed with a bit of paint (nail paint to be exact:) Single paint layer was enough to remove any play. The main reason for all the trouble: extension and smaller base so the stick can be centrally mounted. The base is a standard ABS project box. I have left all internals and electronics intact. I was thinking about replacing the electronics with MMJoy Arduino board but I thought I won’t be able to replicate single magnetic sensor used by Saitek. Since then I found MLX90333 Triaxis Magnetic sensor, well maybe a future project. Extension is made from 20mm plastic conduit which fits perfectly and doesn’t require any modifications to the joystick (except cutting wires to extend them). First, I did 10cm extension but the throw of the stick was too big for my liking so I made second 7.5cm. Next will be the throttle. I plan to replace its board with MMJoy Arduino and add more switches / encoders. So far, I have added dedicated button for VR zoom, encoder for mouse scroll wheel that can also be pressed as left mouse button and another switch on left throttle. I’m ready for the Harrier now:) I’ll continue with the throttle once I got bored a little with it.:)

I have my x-55 for few years now and I’ve never really had any problems with it, although some of its ‘features’ are a bit annoying. Guarantee or not, I did a few small mods soon after I got it. But recently, while waiting for Harrier and Hornet I’ve decided to do much more extensive modification. First, done some time ago, was the thumb switch which was modified as two buttons. Now with nice 3d printed caps: As I have built myself rudder pedals I removed twist mechanism from the stick and reused the axis for the lever to be used for wheel brakes. Unused lever button has been wired to second thumb switch. Fixed another pinky switch so it’s easier to reach with the hand support. Double trigger switch. No more ‘spare’ switches on the stick so this one is wired instead of side button.