Terry Dactil

Bugger! It's going from bad to worse. I tried 'Repair DCS World' and now I cannot get into the cockpit in VR. I am stuck outside the cockpit on the port wing. This only applies to the Spitfire in VR and not to any of the other aircraft. The problems persist in both instant action and missions. I have tried disabling and re-enabling the Spitfire module, but this had no effect. I have also cleared all the superfluous key bindings for trackir (not being used) and mouse with no effect. The last update really screwed up the Spitfire. :cry_2:

Confirmed here too. My z & x keys also give the incorrect response described. However, I use rudder pedals, and these are now giving random flickering and vibrations. Update:Seems to fly OK airborne, but it is now impossible to taxy on the ground. Update: My rudder flicking has been traced to a spiking pot in my old CH rudder pedals. By good timing my new Thrustmaster pedals arrived today and now the rudder is silky smooth. However, it is still impossible to taxy as it appears that any input to stop a turn in one direction remains applied for some time after the rudder is centralised and results in a rapid swing in the other direction. The result is a completely erratic and unstable aircraft that is impossible to taxy

Well - So far, so good. I have managed to mount the four strain gauges without making any changes to the existing components. This means I can easily go back to the original condition if this does not work satisfactorily. The next part of this project, the electronics, will be interesting. The status of all the buttons on the handle is 3 bytes on an SPI bus which needs to be combined with the load values from the strain gauges and the whole lot sent off on a USB connection in the appropriate joystick format. My brain hurts already!

Solved here. I had the same problem with the Rift S being recognized, but then getting the black screen in setup. The Repair kept failing after the 7GB download with an error during install. The 'brute force' repair method was obviously needed. I disconnected all unnecessary devices from the computer. Deleted the Oculus program folder on the C drive. Ran CCleaner to remove the left over junk. Went to the Oculus web site and downloaded the Rift S file. (not the Rift - I noticed there is a several MB difference in file size from my original.) Installed it Everything now works fine :thumbup:

It is not a problem! Most of us cannot see the needle on the ASI anyway. :D

Sokol1 br Thanks for those links. It has given me some good ideas. These items - load cells or strain gauges are available for about $5 on eBay, so I guess it is time to start experimenting while waiting for the F-16 to arrive. :)

Thanks. That looks high quality and very well done, but the price is a bit eye-watering :( There are very affordable load cells and amplifiers available now, so it might be possible to make your own DIY version.

Perhaps we will see a revival of old/broken Cougar sticks and throttles now that the F-16 is on the way. :)

Has anyone managed to modify the Cougar joystick by using load cells or strain gauges so it has very limited movement, just like the real thing?

I remember that somewhere during installation there is a warning that when moving about in the Oculus home environment do not sit down on the furniture - as there is nothing there!

With the F-16 arriving soon it was time to dig out my old Cougar Hotas. I had previously converted the throttle and joystick to USB and Hall effect sensors, but the roll gimbal had busted and as I had moved on to the Warthog the Cougar had been gathering dust for the past few years. A perfect opportunity for another 3d printing project to repair it. It took several tries to get the design right, as the dimensions in the centering spring area are critical to avoid slop, and this is also the area of maximum stress and the layer direction there does not help. However, this was finally fixed by increasing the dimensions to maximum possible, increasing the wall thickness and infill percentage. For anyone with the same broken gimbal problem, here are the files (STL and F3D) Cougar joystick.zip Printed in ABS- top down on a heated base. Layer height 0.2 mm Top, bottom and wall thickness all 2.4 mm Infill 70% Brim and supports.

Same here. 3440 x 1440 monitor and Scale Gui became inoperative several updates ago. Text is now too small to read. I used to be able to fix this by deselecting Full Screen, but that doesn't work anymore.

About time. I keep seeing damaged Spitfires with wingtips on fire. There is nothing to burn out there - all the fuel is in the fuselage.

MatthlK: This could be what you want. (It works for me) ED Forums » English » DCS World Topics » Input and Output » Warthog joystick extensio - 3d printed (part 2)

Yes. I think it was standard practice in the real thing to raise the seat to get a better view for takeoff and landing. There is that lever on the right side of the seat for vertical adjustment, and the rudder pedals with two sets of foot rests is a big clue that it was designed for two seating positions. (unless that was just to improve g tolerance). In VR I find it is easy to move up a bit for takeoff and landing by sqishing yourself down to a lower position, re-centering the view point (button 'Y' on the Rift hand controller or I use a button on the hotas) then sitting upright again.

I would suggest not using the mouse for important switches. Have them on your hotas. If you are using the mouse/trackball you will need to take your eyes off the target to see what you are doing with the mouse.

I find this method works great in VR for operating switches and controls in the cockpit. In the UI setup, bind the mouse buttons and scroll wheel to your hotas. (I use one of the hats) In the VR setup, tick <use mouse> and untick <use hand controllers> Enter the game and use the mouse to position the green cross centered in the lower area of your vision, then leave the mouse alone and the cross will disappear. When you need to operate a switch or whatever, click a hotas mouse button and the green cross will appear. Then move your head to position the cross and click again to operate the switch. Pre positioning the cross low down makes it easy to operate switches on the side panels down near you hips. The hotas scroll wheel buttons do not scroll the control, but just move it in small increments, so multiple clicks are required. I thought the hand controllers were great once the right click function was working, but I now prefer this method as I can keep my hands on the hotas and not grope around for a hand controller. :)

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=236666

Here is a small mod to the Warthog throttle to make it feel more like the Spitfire hand grip and improves the VR experience when flying the Spitfire. I did not want to make any changes to the Warthog throttle, so it is located by projections engaging existing holes and simply held in place with a tie wrap. (The foam rubber tubing used is 1"ID that was left over from a previous project). STL files Spitfire Throttle.zip

Go to the two threads buried way back in this forum Warthog / Cougar stick - 3D print an extension for a better VR experience at https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=209442 Warthog joystick extensio - 3d printed (part 2) (Multi-page thread at https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=216183 2)

RogueSqdn: The F3D files are the original Fusion360 design drawings that someone requested to be able to make modifications. The STL files are lurking at the bottom of post #1 and named HOTAS.zip You need only the first 3 files for the extension 50mm extension - Body.stl. 50mm extension - nut.stl 50mm extension nut retainer.stl Sorry for the confusion.

Sorry, but I am not in a position to manufacture this. :( It was built from scrap material I had in the junk box, and designed around the layout of my control chair. The main idea was to show that a simple linkage could do the job, and to give others an idea for their own build.

This works! It is much easier for me to fly a helicopter now that the up-down control is up-down and not fore-aft. There is just enough space between the two throttle levers (abut 4mm) and the magnetic connector hole for the pin used to join both throttles is perfect for for holding a a linkage to operate the right throttle as the collective control. With some tubing and a couple of bolts I had lying around I 3d printed some component to make this simple collective lever that can be quickly removed for normal fixed wing operation. Down Up Disconnected Some day I will get around to making a proper collective lever with all the buttons and switches, but right now this one works fine.

Yes. That is the way to use the trim. The idea is you set the attitude (nose position) you want by using the normal joystick control, and then use the trim to remove any force you are using. You should then be able to go 'hands off"and the aircraft will maintain that attitude. It is a bit hard in the Spitfire as it has neutral stability and does not return to the trimmed attitude if displaced. That is one of the delights in flying the Spitfire - it tends to go where you point it regardless of any speed change.

Same problem here. Scale GUI in both open beta and release versions does not work after last update. I'm using a 3440 x 1440 monitor and text is now just about unreadable.