Fusedspine33

Double bump

USMC VMA-331

These may be what you want. The seller has on-off, on-on and on-off-on https://www.ebay.com/itm/SPST-ON-OFF-MINIATURE-TOGGLE-SWITCH-FULL-SIZE-TOGGLE-6A-125V-66-1230-10PK/151890298082?hash=item235d5e04e2:g:PyoAAOSw4UtWTyns:sc:USPSPriority!17015!US!-1 Deadman also has switch caps you can epoxy to switches. https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies?section=Switch+cap+replicas&s=0

Looks even better in person. Great job!

I will buy this for the added realism. I just really don’t understand why the prototype has been at two E3 conventions and still isn’t available. It is a grip going for an existing base. Are we that small of a customer base compared to those buying expensive steering wheels, shifters and pedals for racing sims?

Thank you very much to the entire team that made this possible! This is another iconic aircraft to add to my hangar! Looking forward to learning your mods capabilities.

What switches did you use for the square buttons. Found these on eBay for the round ones they have the green led circle. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-12V-16mm-LED-Metal-Push-Button-Panel-Momentary-Switch-Light-Car-Boat-Truck/142652641871?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D6c55c83d54904a7cb05dd46f09ec6b32%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D142652641871%26itm%3D142652641871&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A543878e7-af0e-11e8-865f-74dbd180a0e2%7Cparentrq%3A9cc7e6d41650ab14dce80401fff93a62%7Ciid%3A1

Ice, Are you able to set switches independently within each module using the BBI-64? I hear what your saying about the momentary switches, on one hand you gain simplicity and on the other you loose fidelity. The only way around is a prestart/pre-flight checklist. In flight school the instructor always put one or two switches in an incorrect position to make sure we were actually doing the checklist.

WhoMadeWho, Looking at the diagram you posted for the connector I interpreted rear view of the female connector as if looking at it while soldering. Where pin 1 on the device would be top left from behind and not looking into the holes.

The price for the BRUNNER CLS-E shows 1249 euros for me in the US. Is it higher in other markets? One thing I remember from flying the F-18 and F-14 simulators at Norfolk was how the stick “Talked” to you, it made you trim and added that something extra that made you feel like you were flying. Are there any other FFB stick bases on the market that work with DCS? It seems like I find something new every day like the Brunner base. It is expensive but if it works it might be worth the cost.

Closed

Not sure I get your question Deadman. Hans post allowed me to decipher the one I bought, which I posted for the community. When I finish getting it implemented I will update again. There maybe more types of faceplates that come up for sale on eBay that could be added to this thread to help others in the future.

Search shapeways website there are a couple of folks that have files uploaded there. Not 100% but might be what you are looking for.

AV8B Please

Can someone please try the new link and let me know if it works now. Thanks you and sorry.

Here is a link I put up on hornetpits.org. The photos show there. Sorry for the pic problems. http://hornetpits.org/index.php?topic=900.0

Sorry for the link issues. Trying again. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Tmyha4Paw2jFk15_SWxeppxUjnedEgJn Adding photobucket as well http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/Fusedspine33/library/

Please feel free to keep adding to this thread for how you implemented it or any new models. Together we can save time and frustration.

Hello, Over on Hornetpits.org we have a builder that has created a nice set of backlit panels. If anyone is interested he is willing to do a group run. He is asking for 50% upfront and 50% after delivery. His panels are based on the F-18E so the UFC, IFEI and ARS panels are not 100% for the F-18C. Although the newer model IFEI might work better not having split screens. Prices are: Center panel: 300€ + 20€ shipping, Side panels: 450€ + 25€ shipping, (if together, shipping is 30€ total). Please let me know if you are interested in either set or both. After we get the group formed money would be sent to him directly. Just need to know how many sets we want. No custom work or panel substitutions. He is stating one month from order to your door. Would like to close this by August 12. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Tmyha4Paw2jFk15_SWxeppxUjnedEgJn http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/Fusedspine33/library/ Thanks.

Many thanks to the info from HanSolo on deciphering this device. For anyone else grabbing one of these on EBay, here is a chart with the pin outs for this version of the FMS/CDU keyboard. It is a little different from the version HanSolo had.

Han, Your schematic matches perfectly. Thank you very much. In your post to Baldawg you seemed to be on the fence on two ways to implement it. Which way did you ultimately go?

Han, You referenced “frying” the potentiometer. How can I avoid doing that while testing. I am going to start with only the pins on the chart. Thanks so much for your help.

Thank you for your responses. Blackey, before I posted, I googled part numbers, combos of part numbers and tried the manufacturer web sites and sent them emails. No luck. Not sure why searching here didn’t find HanSolo’s posts. The last thing I wanted to do was throw myself to the wolves by saying I bought this cool paperweight please help me. HanSolo thanks for pointing to your previous thread. That picture of your device looks very similar.

Hello, I found a Rockwell Collins FMS/CDU keypad on EBay and it is very similar to the A-10C. It unfortunately has no documentation for the 37 pin connector on the rear. I thought an email to Rockwell or Korry might produce a schematic but no answers from those companies. Is there a way to determine the pin out functions. I am operating from the assumption that the pins are creating a matrix. I would like to interface the panel using an Arduino and DCS Bios. I am unfortunately an electronics neophyte. I have a multi-meter, an assumption and no idea how to move forward. Any thoughts on how to decipher the pin outs on the connector would be appreciated. Trust me I am already kicking myself for buying before researching. If anyone has interest these are still available on EBay.

For Evilfisher. Saw this online. I am not advertising for the product I don’t own one because it is too expensive for a single switch for me. But if your creative then this might get you started on designing your own. http://www.ruscool.co.nz/landing_gear.html