heloguy

My mistake.

@elecsys, No issues, just wasn't sure which angle you were talking about. As far as Baur's are concerned, it looks like the vertical angle of the toe brakes is slightly adjustable, maybe between 60-80 degrees. As it stands, mine are at the '80' degree mark, and it still feels like it takes too much movement to max out their travel. Like I said, it's not a real big problem, though. Slaw's pedals don't seem to have any adjustment for the toe brake angle.

Baur's set does include the mounts for both installs. I think you can only do one angle, or the other. There is nothing in between from what you see in the pictures you posted. Slaw's pedals do not allow for that angle adjustment.

elecsys Don't get me wrong, Slaw's pedals are great, but I'll detail below. Between Slaw's, and Baur's, they are almost the exact same size widthwise, so you definitely need a good amount of room for them. Both of them require to be mounted. Both have smooth action using roller bearings and a cam design. I have the damper installed on both. I received Baur's first, quickly switching to the soft center cam. Between that, and the damper feel, it's the closest I've come to the feeling of actual pedals. Very precise, and no sticktion. My only complaint is that the toe brakes seem to have a very large travel throw. Not a big deal, as on most sims I can adjust the top end deadzone. I've set them to about 75% where I can, and this seems to work pretty well. Slaw's came next, so I swapped the F1's out to give them a try. Same precise, smooth feeling, with no sticktion as Baur's, and the toe brakes seem to be (default) mounted more vertically. Consequently, you do not have to extend your feet as far to fully depress the brakes on Slaw's pedals. They may be able to be adjusted, but I haven't tried, as I like them where they are. The first difference I noticed was that the center felt much harder on the default cam than what I had been used to in my two weeks with the F1s, so I switched to the 'soft' center cam (very easy to switch cams on both by the way). Even with the softer cam, the center is more pronounced with the Slaw pedals, although it is not a problem per se with controllability (again, very smooth and precise), but may be a matter of preference. I prefer the F1's feel, as I said. The other thing I noticed, is that the actual throw of the rudder pedals themselves from full left to full right is slightly less than that of Baur's design. Again, I think this would be more of a personal preference thing, but I prefer the F1's with the larger movement. Also, at the time, Baur's pedals were slightly cheaper (by about $100 U.S.). I still have both, and I'm not planning on getting rid of either any time soon, but right now I'm using the F1's. All three cams were included, and I've only tried two. As far as the angle you're referring to, I'm not sure exactly what angle you're talking about. Baur's I think can only be installed one angle vertically, and then are adjustable in the horizontal plane. I prefer them straight, as Slaw's are.

I have the F1 version with the damper installed, using the soft center cam, and SU-35 pedals. Honestly I can't recommend them enough. I don't have the kamov style pedals, so I cannot comment on the differences, but I do have Slaw Vipers, and while those are extremely nice pedals too, I prefer Baur's design. This is mainly due to a larger pedal travel, and smoother feel with the soft center cam (I also have the softest center cam available in my Slaw pedals). I'm sure you couldn't go wrong with either set.

My god...

Definitely understood, I just didn't want people to get their hopes up when they saw that pic with hands in the cockpit. Looks real promising, though.

Dude you should get a seatbelt :thumbup: Might be a staple sim requirement once VR gets in full swing.

Great video, and exciting that VKB is getting as popular as they are. The music was great too. Reminds me of the beginning montage to an 80's martial arts film (who doesn't like 80's martial arts films?)

Chuck Norris can.

Just tried this too. It doesn't seem to have any functionality yet, and the hands were stuck in weird orientations unrelated to my own hands (index finger pointing back at me when my hand wrist would have to be broken to be able to pull it off). In the MI-8, it seemed like they were locked to the engineer's seat (center seat). Again, no real functionality I could find. None of the buttons did anything, I just had hands floating around in the same relative position as my own. I checked the control options, and didn't see any options to assign functions, or to re-orient the hands once I was holding the touch controllers. Exciting though. Will be extremely useful when it works.

No Sir, it really is called a$$.

I did a search for Ammo Counter, and couldn't find this, so forgive me if this has been brought up. Upon starting a new mission, the keyboard commands for the ammo counter adjustment knobs seem to not work at all, unless I first mouse over them, and use the mouse wheel to move them a little. After that, the keyboard commands work fine to both increase and decrease. This doesn't seem to be the case with the FW-190, as I can use the keyboard commands immediately upon entering a mission to make adjustments. Not too big of a deal, but I'm trying to make a Voice Attack profile so I don't have to reach for the mouse during startup. This could also be a problem also, I presume, for a pit builder who is trying to assign function to a knob via keyboard commands.

I guess the first question would be, how are you implementing a trim hat? Are you using the left/right/forward/aft cyclic commands in the game, or are you using an external program like SIMFFB? If you are assigning your trim hat to the cyclic movement commands in game, this is probably not going to work very well. I tried that with the Ka-50, and found the movement with the trim switch to be way to excessive. I have used SIMFFB in the past, and found it to be adequate, although unrealistic in adding a trim hat to the Huey. I eventually quit using it, as I find having buttons available on the grip more useful than having the trim hat. I usually turn off the force trim switch in the cockpit if I'm doing anything that requires precision.

I would just like the throttle axis to not be locked to either a button press, or mouse wheel when the idle release button is pressed. It makes starting the the thing clumsier than it would be IRL. Also, and I know this only affects a minority, it would if someone has a collective with a working idle release and twist throttle, it won't work right with the module as you would still have to have a button mapped to the idle release, as well as move or press something other than the physical throttle to go to idle. A small gripe really, unless you are trying to use the sim as a procedural trainer for startup. A fix could be to make the sim not read axis movements with the throttle closed, and the idle release button unpressed, and then have it unable to read less than 10% with the throttle >10% with the idle release button unpressed. This could be a special option to be checked, depending on your personal control setup.

I have to respectfully disagree. As an owner of the Dodosim (taught myself to hover with it before flight school) and many other 3rd party A/C that now collect virtual dust in my virtual hangar, I have to say I haven't flown anything in FSX that holds a candle to the DCS Huey in terms of FM and systems modeling. The big thing with startups that could perhaps be better is the idle release button implementation.

Just be careful what you wish for. I obviously can't know for sure what people expect when they ask for this, but keep in mind, the engine isn't going to fail immediately after you exceed the limits in Chapter 5. Those limits exist mainly to protect components over a long period of use (100s-1000s of flight hours). The engine doesn't just give up the ghost if you run it at 625deg C for 30min 1sec, or 626deg C for 11sec. I've been working with helos for about 17 years, first as a crew chief, and now as a pilot for the last 9 years. I can tell you that sometimes limits are exceeded, usually not by a large amount, and the usual result is nothing but a maintenance inspection, and return to flight status as long as nothing is found to be wrong. Sometimes there is more in depth maintenance required, but thank god, the aircraft usually can take the abuse with little noticeable reduction in performance on the flight that the limit was exceeded. I'm not saying they shouldn't change anything, but if they do, I hope it's reasonable. Something like, a progressive engine damage model, your co-pilot calling out limits as you approach/exceed them, or random failures if you fly above the Chap. 5 limits. I could definitely see a failure happening if you ran it well above the 30 min limit (maybe 700C) for an extended period of time. We already have rotor droop when the engine reaches its absolute power producing limit, which more often than not, you see exceeds Chap 5's limits by quite a bit. If you want to fly it like it's flown IRL, work out a PPC for your mission's ambient conditions, and fly within those + Chap. 5's limits fearing the wrath of your maintenance crew and commander if you exceed them. Here's to hoping that if this is implemented, it is not too "gamey." Definitely multi-crew would be great, an some different armament/avionics/equipment configurations.

Interested in all three, PM sent.

Just wanted to throw in my two cents, as I just received my BRD-F2s last week. Really impressed with the build and design, and Baur has fantastic customer support. You can tell he really enjoys what he does, and wants his customers to be happy. They shipped from Sochi to the US, with about 2 weeks being the time enroute I believe. The box was pretty beat up, but everything inside was very well protected with bubble wrap, and even a small board cut to fit in the bottom to support the box. Can't recommend his products enough at this point.

Yes, CH-53. Preferably the E model, as it can lift the most (more than a Chinook). Aerial refueling, and three gunner positions. And it looks cooler. (Chinook just looks like two palm trees riding a baseball bat).

Great, thanks guys.

Just ordered a new SSD. I'm wondering if it's required to deactivate before I move my DCS World installation to the SSD. Would changing drive letters around so the new SSD matches the current HD help avoid this? Also, if a deactivation for all modules is required, do I need to do it within all three installs I have? (Stable, Beta, and Alpha)

Appreciate the reply. I'll just remember to exit right away when he says mission complete.

It was a score of 50. I'll try the manual adjustment.

So, I didn't pass the second mission, and now I am back to mission 1. Is this normal? If so, I don't see how this helps me practice for mission 2.