heloguy

And here I thought I might actually be reading news about a VKB product...and instead read about car warranties? WTF... There are PMs for a reason.

+1! This looks great!

That was it, thanks Ranma!

I have an issue with mine: the lower DEPR rocker button and both INTEN rocker buttons register in DCS, but not in the Windows control panel, or in other sims. I've attached a picture to show which buttons.

Any news on this? I pre-ordered as well. Edit: Nevermind, found this: https://www.black-hog.com/2019/02/06/project-update-production-january-2019/

Aaaand…..off to send a message to Brunner to see if they can implement this on the CLS-E.

Sure would be nice.

Actually, as someone who flies with real world MFDs quite often, the effect is pretty realistic. What is not realistic, is that you can't place something (your hand, head, etc) in the way to block the sun, and see the MFD.

I assume you used the shipping calculator for UPS. I removed that one now, as I forgot their international rates are ridiculous. I left the USPS calculator, which gives a price of around $71.00 to Scotland. I checked the USPS website, and got the same quote. If the shipping is cheaper upon actually sending the item, I would refund the difference.

My bad, price adjusted. I think I was mentally adding the shipping to the total from when I bought it.

Sold.

Sold.

Yes, it works, but you have to use Brunner's profile software to use it correctly. If you ever used the SimFFB utility that was floating around here, it gives you similar functionality. Under the 'Trim' tab in the Profile Manager, you choose 'Hardware Trim' mode. You choose what button on the grip is a trim release, as well as which buttons motor the trim hat. After you set a profile, you just need to remember to fire up the Brunner software (CLS2Sim), and click the connect button once your joystick is up and running. I could easily send you my profile for DCS helos and fixed wing if you send me a PM. Definitely worth the extra step to have functioning trim in helos. I've been using the stick with Prepar3D and X-Plane 11 with ok results. Both sims require a plug-in install to make the stick work properly in FFB mode. I haven't had good luck with trim in fixed wing applications, but the vibration due to engines and ground roll have worked fine. I've ended up using the 'Hardware Trim' mode with both of those sims as well. The turbulence function seemed very robotic, and had a set frequency, so I disabled it, as I found it annoying. I think it would be nice if DCS ever got a plug-in, but based on what I've seen with Prepar3D and X-Plane, I won't cry if it never does. The effects are ok with those two sims, but I find the Buttkicker and Jet Seat to be adequate for feedback (especially the Jet Seat). As far as the grip is concerned, I've pretty much stayed with the F-22 grip I cobbled together. I only slightly miss the push function of the CMS switch on my Warthog grip. I was able to get an older T-50 off E-Bay, and it works fine, but it's so tall, it doesn't fit in my sim setup. I'm currently using a 20cm Sahaj extension, so room for the joystick throw is at a premium (every time you plug in the power, it has to calibrate itself by moving through full roll and pitch axis travel, and must not be interrupted). As it stands, this is my main control now, as it is smooth, precise, and allows for realistic trim for helos and fixed wing. I also own a Warthog, BRD Black Stork, 2xGunfighters, Mongoose T-50, FSSB R3, Microhelis EC-145 Cyclic, Komodosim EC-145 Cyclic, and Cougar, if that gives you any idea of what I've tried so far. It's been a long road, and longer search for what feels like the best all-around control (I fly helos for trade, and dabble in fixed-wing for leisure, so when I sim, I fly both). Edit: Not sure why the picture rotated 90 degrees left, but hopefully you get the idea.

It is true, you’ll lose Target compatibility with the R3. The TUSBA will not be compatible with Target, and the Realsimulator PCB in the R3 is not compatible. The only way to maintain compatibility with both would be to maintain the Cougar stick base as a bridge for the throttle, and order a Warthog stick PCB direct through Thrustmaster customer support to be install in the R3 base. Personally, I have only used the shift function in Target, which is available in DCS on its own, so I’ve never missed Target since ditching it.

I have an FSSB R3 Warthog, and both a Cougar and Warthog grip. Both grips work fine on the R3, not to mention, I imagine you'll find easier mounting solutions with the R3 over the R2..

I vote no twist, but would like to see a Warthog compatible version. I would most likely get one of each. As to the topic within the topic of Virpil compatibility, I can't see any reasonable expectation from VKB to ensure compatibility. The chances are most likely high that it would work, but if it doesn't, they can't be held responsible. I just ran into this issue while trying to use a new version of the Virpil Mongoose T-50 on a Brunner CLS-E base. The grip didn't work at all, even though I had read in other forums that the older version of the Mongoose T-50 worked fine on the Brunner base. The grip worked fine on other Warthog compatible bases that I own. I ended up getting a used older version of the T-50 grip on eBay, and it worked fine. All that to say, if a product claims Warthog compatibility, then we can expect just that. Anything else, unless mentioned, is going to be at the risk of the buyer.

Small update to this: Per a suggestion by Sokol over at SimHQ, I ordered some parts from Thrustmaster (switches, and grip for the PCB), and some ALPS 8-way plus push switches. I've also ordered some parts from Debolestis Shapeways store to use, so I'll see what I can come up with when it all arrives.

I know I'm quiet here, but I've definitely been watching this daily. I'd give it a go in the first run, Miles. While not tech savvy in the builder sense as you are, I feel I'm good as far as testing the overall product and user interaction.

Yeah, TM Cougar ruined the common perception of real world controls. Now everyone thinks this is how a control grip is supposed to feel.

Just wanted to share my next project, as well as look for any advice. I was able to acquire an OH-6 cyclic grip, and want to modify it according to some H-60 pictures I've seen in some walkaround websites. Here's the original grip: What I would like to do is the following: In all, I see 25 total buttons. My plan is to make this Warthog compatible, so I already see a problem with the number of buttons. If I can substitute some of the buttons for all eight ways of a POV switch, then I'm good, as the button total will be 17. If not, then I'm stuck with 21 desired, and 19 available, unless I'm mistaken about the max button count available through shift register. So far, with buttons, I would like to replace the ICS/Radio rocker (I'm sure it's old)with a like switch, but will test it to see if it actually works with a meter. The rest of the buttons, I also plan to replace with what's in the pics. I need to take some measurements to see how big the switch bodies need to be (as well as how big the tail piece needs to be), but I'm definitely open to suggestions on where to find such switches. The biggest hurdles I see are adding the second trigger (mainly due to the modifications required), and adding the rocker switch for force trim release (ringfinger switch on the left side as pictured). Also, what is the best way to PCB this beast? I do have a Warthog grip with a VKB adapter that I never use, but I'd rather just save that, and get something new and separate. I'm also aware that just wiring the switches to a BBI-32 or something of the like might be the only option, but I'd like to save the USB port on my computer. It's not out of the question, but if I can make it Warthog (Shift register) pure, that would be ideal. Thanks for looking, and any suggestions.

Only other thing I could think of is making sure the joystick is properly calibrated.

Make sure you don't have multiple joysticks bound to the same axes (ie, two devices bound to pitch/roll/yaw axes on the same aircraft). This can lead to the behavior you describe.

The second switch was clicking, but I wasn't getting an indication under Windows test. I had a Cougar grip laying around, so I decided to take a look at the internals. Everything is pretty much the same, except smaller, so I decided to give the swap a go. So far so good. I have the F-22 grip back together with the Cougar PCB, and all switches and wiring, and everything tested out okay. The swap took about 4.5 hours of work (I'm slow, and didn't want to mess anything up). That includes breaking the solder on one of the switches, and having to repair it. All in all, I'm happy with the results. Hopefully this grip, paired with an extension, won't be too heavy for my Brunner CLS-E.

Seems the rubber pad is actuating the switch just fine. All the wiring looks intact as well. Guess maybe it’s just a bad switch. I wonder if it’s possible to transfer Cougar or Warthog internals to an F-22 grip shell.

Ah, great, thanks Sokol, I’ll give that a shot. Your knowledge with joystick stuff has been great over the years, thanks a bunch!