rayrayblues

Why not. Not only was it 1/2 of the total war, but lasted longer and produced many iconic planes and ships.

Then why is it happening? If as you say, it is not modeled, then there is something else going on. If I try to do a vertical landing or takeoff without Yaw AP on, I will almost always enter a spin, depending on wind speed and direction as soon as I come to a hover. There is not enough right anti-torque thrust available to recover. There is lots of good info in this article: LTE: the cliff edge | Flight Safety Australia This applies to all helicopters. The Hind just happens to be more sensitive to LTE caused by tail rotor VRS. (or at least the DCS version is.) The best landing approach (for me at least) is to reset trims to center and turn AP off. Line up on the LZ and then engage the Yaw AP. I can then slow to a hover, without spinning and gently set her down; even with a 45 degree wind.

I've been seeing it forever.

Did ATC give you clearance to land? Which map? What were you flying? So many details left out.

@dresoccer4Sorry, I thought that it applies to all FFB trims including rudder. The other 2 modes do. Do you have FFB pedals or just the stick & twist? The twist doesn't work well in DCS. It's not precise enough. I use the rocker/slider on the throttle, my old ass feet and legs don't work too well any more. I walk with a cane. Just trying to help. I don't have FFB so.............. It may be time for a bug report.

It has been there since the beginning. It is dependent upon wind direction, particularly a headwind at 45 degrees off the nose or tail. This wind condition causes the tail rotor to enter VRS from the downwash of the main rotor. The tip vortices interfere with each other. Takeoff, landing and hover in GE with a 45 degree headwind are the most likely conditions for this to happen. The Yaw AP channel is there to stabilize the ship and prevent LTE from occurring. You should always use the AP when taking off, landing or hovering in GE. That's what the engineers designed it for. I strongly suggest mapping buttons to AP on and AP off for maximum overall control of the ship.

It's starting to look like a FFB problem only. I have a conventional stick (spring centered) and my trimmer works perfectly. I am assuming that you also have the correct mode selected for FFB. I would suggest that you make an official bug report.

It is important to find a balance between the cyclic and collective before activating trim. This is true for all helos, but more so for the Hind. This bird flies pretty straight and true without trim. If you are pushing forward a lot to remain level, your collective is too high. The same is true if you are pulling back to keep the nose up, your collective is too low. First off, I don't recommend large curves on your axis settings. Depending on your equipment +10 to +15 on the pitch & roll and 0 on the collective and yaw will do. I make sure that I'm flying straight and level and that the side slip ball is centered without trim before I press the trim button. All I need to do then is simply use the trim hat to fine tune it and I am hands off in just a few seconds. My HOTAS only has one hat switch which I use for view, so I mapped my up, down, left & right arrow buttons to this axis. The trims and auto pilots are not interconnected. They are separate systems. What you do to one will not affect the other. I do recommend using the "Rudder Trimmer" option as it makes life so much easier and it's really not a cheat. It is there to compensate for the lack of hydraulics in spring centered pedals. In the real bird, rudder trim is called pedal dampening. If you have FFB pedals then I recommend using the pedal dampener, otherwise use the "Rudder Trimmer". The Yaw AP is very useful when taking off and landing as well as holding a set heading. This is also not a cheat. It is installed by the manufacturer for a reason; well, two actually. It is a heading hold for long trips and most importantly, it is to compensate for the Hind's natural tendency towards LTE during take off, landing and hover in certain wind conditions. To takeoff, first I pull my stick back a little and to the right and set it in with the trimmer. Then I turn on the Yaw AP and lift off straight up in a hover and rotate to my desired direction of travel. Then at about 100 feet. (30m) altitude I press the trim reset button. When the trim returns to center, the nose will drop slightly, but that's exactly what I want. It starts me accelerating towards forward flight without having to push forward too much on the cyclic. I level off with the VSI on 0 and the side slip ball in the center. Then I press the trim button, release the stick for a second and then fine tune with the hat. If I do it right, I don't get the sudden deviation when trimming. It has already happened when I went from takeoff attitude to forward flight. BTW, if you press and hold the button, like on the Ka-50, the nose also drops , so................ If you are fighting it. you are doing something wrong. You are probably not balanced between stick and collective. There is no interaction between trim and AP. One does not affect the other, but both affect the whole. Try flying without trim, get it as close to straight and level as you can, then press trim and fine tune with the hat. This is a large and heavy bird. She doesn't respond well to hard and fast inputs. Be gentle with her and she'll be gentle with you. Don't manhandle her. If you find it hard to get her back in line after a while, she may be damaged. Turn off Yaw AP, reset trims and start over. The many adjustments you make while flying along are accumulative. The trim reset may just be your best friend. A common theme/complaint across all these threads is "The Hip doesn't do this or that or the Huey or the Ka-50 etc, etc, ad infinitum, ad nauseum. Stop comparing her to the Kamov, the Hip or the Huey, she is neither. She has her own personality. You must learn to deal with her on her own terms. This is a systems question about how the cyclic trim interacts with the Autopilot Wrong, they don't interact. They are separate systems, they each do their own job, but both apply to the whole bird. "like the Mi-8 - like the in the Shark - as you would do in the Mi-8 - operate the trim exactly like you would in the Shark " See what I mean about comparing to the other birds, sorry Dude, I don't mean to pick on you, but you said it all in one post. The hind is not any of those other birds, so stop comparing. Those other three aren't like each other, and neither is the Hind like any of those. An eagle is not a robin, or a crow, or a sparrow, or a hummingbird. Accept her for who she is, not what you want her to be. Apologies to Ornithopter, rant over.

@Rudel_chw Hey Eduardo, I figured it out. The first time I ran the move, it copied my user mods into my main game folder. IDK how that happened. I sure didn't send them there. I did a clean up and removed them all. My game is back up and running with all of my user mods in place. Thanks again for your help. Ray

Boy you said a mouth full. I can't believe some of the things I've read here and in other similar threads. The worst are the ones saying that it is cheat, or that that it causes you to spin when landing and they never use AP or trims. (Real "macho guys") NEWS FLASH.....It's not a cheat. The manufacturer put it there for a reason. It is an integral part of operating the aircraft smoothly and safely. Work smarter, not harder. It is especially useful when taking off and landing. It will overcome the tendency for the tail rotor to enter VRS also known as LTE (Loss of Tail Rotor Effectiveness) The downwash from the main rotor will cause this in certain wind conditions. AMEN Brother! Truer words were never spoken. You have got it exactly backwards Dude. Not enough dependence on the Yaw AP will make you spin. I don't believe you when you say that it "Never Happened" with the AP off. That's not the way this bird flies. This is a large and heavy bird, especially when loaded down with weapons. It is not a sports car, It's a bus. Drive it like a bus. Proper use of trims and AP, with slow and gentle inputs will make a world of difference. When the Yaw AP is on you must use the pedals as well as the stick to turn. Don't try to turn with just the stick. Pressing the pedals cancels the AP momentarily allowing you to make a coordinated turn, just like in a plane, then when you straighten out pointed in the new direction, release the pedal gently and the AP will re-engage and hold the new heading. I use Yaw AP mostly for take offs and landings (to avoid LTE) and for holding a heading on a long trip. I turn it off in combat though, for "relatively" quick maneuvers. When I first got this bird, I had a hell of a time trying to control her. Especially landings. I thought I would never get the hang of it. I also fly: Huey, Hip, and Shark. Speaking of landings, there seems to be a lot of differing opinions. My take is this: When descending for a landing, (vertical or rolling) there is a critical moment just when you transition from translational lift to ground effect, especially on vertical approaches, when the tail rotor seems to have gone on a coffee break. and all of a sudden, you are spinning like a top. When I am approaching my LZ, I line it up in the center of the windscreen and turn the Yaw AP on. It will hold my heading and I can concentrate on using the cyclic and collective for a smooth controlled landing every time. Of course your other trim settings and glide slope are also very important. Remember, slow and gentle all the time. Treat her like a good woman and she will love you forever. GL & HF

@Rudel_chw That was it! This picture is not photoshopped like the first one. My C:\ drive is now 100 Gb lighter. Now, how do I link it to the main game. The game opens, but none of my configs, missions, mods etc. are there? I mean they are there, but the game doesn't see them. EDIT: It seems to be just the mods. I tried reinstalling them, but no luck. Should I make a whole new mods folder and install the one at a time, or................?? I keep getting this. How do I get my mods to work???

DUH......Thanx, I'll try again and let you know. Thank God for Acronis. If something goes wrong, I can restore my whole computer in less than an hour.

@Rudel_chw I selected the G drive. You said not to create a folder that it will create the special folder automatically. I was expecting when opening the drive that there would be two folders. 1, the game folder and 2, the Special Saved Games folder. That is what I would like to do. Kinda like this:

@Rudel_chw It did not work. It did not create the special folder like you said it would. On the right is my Saved Games folder before transfer. On the left is my G drive after the move. It should have the Open Beta folder and the saved games special folder. Instead it moved everything separately. The game won't open now.` The only thing I can do now is restore my Windows from a backup.

@Rudel_chw and @MAXsenna Thanks guys, I'll give it a try, if it works I should gain 100 Gb free space on my C drive.

@Heroman30 I have a dedicated M2 SSD for DCS. My saved games folder is still on my C drive and it takes up about 100 gigs of space. Will this help me move the SG folder to my dedicated DCS drive? I tried to just copy and paste it once and the result was a mess? I had to restore windows from my backup drive in order to fix it.

Another good one is: "For What It's Worth" by Buffalo Springfield. Has an ethereal quality to it that just fits.

The other one shows ammo remaining. To hide it press LWin + H

This is exactly what happened last year when we lost Kobe Bryant and his 13 year old daughter. The pilot was not only IFR rated, but was also an IFR instructor.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but 500 Gb may not be enough. I found this out the hard way. I have a large install with lots of modules. (317 Gb including 32 Gb of virtual memory) I was at 288 Gb and the next update said I didn't have enough space. The update process uses a lot of temp files, so it is actually larger than the final amount of stuff that's actually installed. If you want to grow, you will need more space. 1 Tb minimum. I had to bite the bullet and cough up $130 bucks just a month ago. This game keeps on growing so we need to be prepared. You can initialize the drive in "Disk Management" (LWin + X) Initialize first and then create a new volume (GPT format is best) You can then just copy and paste the entire game folder. Don't forget to add at least 32 Gb of virtual memory. When complete, open the bin folder, right click on DCS.exe and "Send To" desktop. GL & HF, Ray BTW, my saved games folder, which is on my C drive is 100 gigs.

Yes, turning off the dampener also disables the Yaw AP. Your feet will be very busy if you fly without it.

@ArjenHVA @Chump Thanx again guys, here is what I came up with: I created a trigger zone 1 to 2 miles radius. I set the trigger to 3 SWITCHED CONDITION, Set the conditions to UNIT INSIDE ZONE (Rotary-1, Zone-1) and actions to SMOKE MARKER (Zone-1, 1, GREEN) I set up an invisible FARP with required ground support and a windsock hidden under some trees. When I enter the zone, the smoke pops. There is no need for a trigger to turn it off, so you can rearm and gas up and the smoke will go out by itself after 5 mins. Later on if I need more gas and bullets, I can just re-enter the zone and the smoke pops again for 5 more minutes. It is repeatable. this is just what I was looking for, I love it! Thanx.

OK, I'll give it a shot. Thanx again.

@ArjenHVA & @Chump Thanx guys. Very helpful info, now, Is there a way to pop smoke using the radio, such as when calling "inbound" or when entering the zone. I like using the new invisible FARP, but sometimes I hide them too well. I have run out of gas while trying to remember where the gas station is. If I could have the smoke pop with the radio, it would help me find the FARP.

@Badass1982 Have you tried? Local bshark=RAT:New("bshark") bshark:ExcludedAirports("Name Of Carrier")