VpR81

I checked the controls again and couldn't find any unwanted mappings. I find it to be strange, that the input via throttle AND via keyboard is recognised in the controls setup, but both input devices do not work in the pit with that mapping. I mapped BARO ALT with LSHIFT + V and RDR ALT with LCTRL + V. I tried to map BARO ALT with other keybinds, still the same problem. Input is recognised in the controls setup, but does not work in the pit. Not when toggling the switch on the throttle and not when pressing the keys on the keyboard. Maybe someone could do me a favor and map BARO ALT in DCS, jump in the pit, switch to radar alt and then try to go back to baro alt with that keybind. I'm curious if it's just my install or if i found a bug...

I remember going through the same situation when i got my Warthog. It was annoying back then but as mentioned, it was worth the work and i never regret. I don't use Joystick Gremlin as i started with Target and didn't know about JG back then, otherwise i would have propably choosed JG. You can set the LED's on the throttle to turn on/out if any button is pressed, but afaik it is not related to a DCS feedback. I don't know if this is possible via .lua file modification in combination with the Target script editor.

Not realy. I have not modified my .lua file but have only mapped all 2 and 3 way switches in Target. Master Arm ON/OFF, Refuel probe RET/EXT, Laser Arm ON/STBY/AFT, Hook up/down, everything works fine and proir to the update the altimeter switch did too. I had BARO ALT on the "ON" position of a 2 way switch and RDR ALT on the "OFF" position. And now only the BARO/RDR ALT toggle functions work to go back to baro. And it is not a Target issue, since using the keyboard doesen't work as well for BARO ALT. This is definately a DCS issue unrelated to some .lua manipulation, as i never modified any lua files. Question is, is it a bug or a wasted install.... edit: One more thing. Using the throttle switch for BARO ALT in the controls setup does recognise the input (same when using the keyboard), it's just not working as soon as i try in the cockpit. So it has definately nothing to do with Target, my throttle or my keyboard. It is a DCS issue that occured after the last update.

The virtual controller should now show up in your DCS controller list instead of the throttle/stick. The keybinds you mapped in target will not show up in the DCS controller list/virtual controller category, but should work as intended. Map your switches and buttons in Target and only your axis in DCS for the virtual controller and give it a try in flight. It should perfectly work, i never had any issues with that. Target needs a bit training and playing around with it as it is not as intuitive as it should be. But as soon as you are in the know, it's a great tool and provides great features and functions. Not using Target (or similar software) means you're missing a huge amount of the Warthogs potential.

Hi all, Not sure if this is a bug or my install is wasted. I have mapped the BARO ALT and RDR ALT in DCS to use it on my throttle and now recognised since the last update, that the BARO ALT function does not work anymore. Regardless what keybind i'm using, if i toggle the switch on the throttle or use the keyboard, i can now only switch back to barometric altitude by using the BARO/RDR ALT toggle function (or click the switch in the cockpit), but the pure BARO ALT function stopped working. Not realy a big deal as there is a workaround with the toggle function, but i think this should be mentioned. Does anyone else experienced that issue or may this be a install repair case? Cheers

It does. The virtual controller is recognised by DCS as a new device and you'll have to remap it, but it's worth the little amount of work. You can map the virtual controller then in Target, or in DCS, or a mixed mapping. Not a big deal. Just make sure to set the signal in target to "pulse" instead of "hold" for the permanent switches. Target is only for mapping buttons and switches, the axis for the virtual controller still have to be defined/mapped in DCS. You can also map sequences in Target, i.e. mapping one button to reset zoom and center view at the same time. The downside is, that the virtual controller can only have 8 axis since windows limits axis and buttons per controller. The Warthog throttle has 5 axis and the stick 2, but you can decide wich device should be included to the virtual controller profile. I have only set the throttle as virtual controller while i map my sticks and pedals in DCS

This can be easily done for all functions and all 2 and 3 way switches on the Warthog by simply using Target or Joystick gremlin. No one needs to manipulate DCS files for that, wich is a very complicated solution compared to additional software where you can do this with 2 mouse clicks.

Somehow yes, but this will not help for every X-55/56. Some ppl had no luck with that solution. Also you'll need an excellent powered USB Hub for that as not every powered hub provides enough power to stop the X-55/56 from ghosting. Only very few hubs will solve that problem reliably and the cheap hubs won't help much, i tried a few. I ended up with the TP-Link UH720 powered 7 USB hub, wich is a 50$ high class hub. BUT there must be only the X-55 throttle plugged into that hub. As soon as i plugged in any other device (i.e. the X-55 stick), that crappy thing started ghosting again. On that same hub i'm currently running 7 devices without any issues: TM TPR pedals TM Warthog throttle TM Warthog base/Hornet grip VPC WarBRD base/Warthog grip 3x TM cougar MFD While the X-55 throttle started ghosting if there was only one additonal device plugged in. In short terms, the X-55/56 is crap. Yet alone due to the fact you'll have to purchase additional hardware to make it work as intended. Also the ghosting issue is not the only flaw of the X-55/56. Another thing is the crappy friction wheel. Set it too tight and it will cause button issues on the throttle, means some buttons won't work at certain throttle positions. I had this problem too. Also some buttons just stopped working right after warranty ended. These problems are well known since the very first day the X-55 hit the market and Logitech didn't solve any of these problems. They just shot new paint on exactly the same hardware, renamed it to X-56 and started to sell it for 80-100 bucks more than the X-55. I remember my X-55 was at 150€ new, the X56 is 250€. For the same crappy piece of plastic.

How about a necktie microphone you can clip to your shirts collar? I use the Rode Lavalier GO and absolutely happy with it. Rode produces professional microphones for music and TV studios and their quality is superb. However, the quality displays the prices. Rode microphones aren't cheap, but provide excellent sound/speak quality. The Lavalier GO is one of their less expensive mics and is at 70€ (~80 US$) over here. Btw, why do you want to have the conversation on your speakers? I use my 5.1 system only for envroinment sound effects, like engines, detonations etc. and have warning sounds, radio and voice chat on my headphones. With voice chat on your speakers, you might get reaction coupling messing up your conversations.

IMO, there is nothing like the "best" HOTAS set. The best you can get is a combination of different manufactors. But these all exceed the 200$ price range by far. For most high class controls, the joystick base alone is $200+ or even more. A not so expensive entry HOTAS to that section would be the Thrustmaster Warthog, although it has it's flaws. Within $200, i'd say the Thrustmaster T16000M Stick + TWCS throttle + TFRP pedals are a solid choice. These can be purchased as complete package wich is roughly about $200-$240. A bit more than 200$, but you'll get pedals with it and the X-56 is also at 250$. I haven't seen it for less yet. The Logitech X-56 is not recommended anyways. Despite the reputation of Logitech, it has very poor quality and suffers multiple electronic issues. I.e. ghosting (triggering buttons you haven't pressed), wich is absolutely annoying. I had the older version years ago, the X-55. So i know what i'm talking about, i had literally all issues with it you can read about online. And Logitech hasn't solved any of these design flaws, some ppl who had both report quality even got worse. Better don't spend money on that So far for flight controls, but for headtracking/VR my knowledge is way too limited to provide a reasonable recommendation. Cheers

Just perfect.

A lot of functions (in study lvl aircrafts) don't have keyboard commands mapped. You can assign one by yourself and use modificators if the button is already assigned to a different function. I mapped a few functions with keybinds in DCS by myself to lay them on the throtlle. I.e. external tanks fuel flow.

Congrats on that Virpil throttle, these are realy difficult to get. You're a lucky guy, beeing able to purchase one few days after deciding to get one. Definately a rare Virpil story. As for my WarBRD base, i have it attached to a mounting rail on my simrig, using it as sidestick. The original baseplate of the WarBRD base is very light and can be used on a desk without any issues, as long as you use the soft springs. The heavy ones might cause some stability issues, but i haven't tested it as i never used it on a desk. There are adaptor plates available for various desk mounts, making it easy to attach it to one of them. The WarBRD base aout the same deflection as the Warthog base and most desk mounts can handle the Warthog without hitting the mount, such as Monstertech or Foxx Mounts. Virpil also offers a universal compact baseplate, compatible with both the Warthog base and the WarBRD base (i think even with the T50). I used this one to attach the base to the mounting rail Ha, that's exactly what i thought when i got the Warthog. But then the Hornet grip hit the market, the WarBRD base became interesting and now the Virpil VFX grip has catched my eyes as i consider getting the DCS F-14 Tomcat. Simply love holding the stick of the aircraft i'm actually flying. Having a base compatible to various grip manufactors can get expensive over time... :D This is how i mounted my Virpil base:

Target morphs your controllers (those you include into that profile) into one virtual controller. After launching the profile, you can map your buttons/switches either in DCS or in Target, or a mixed layout. But your DCS keybindings on the throttle/Stick are gone, as the virtual Target controller is recognized by DCS as a new device. An issue with morhping your HOTAS into one virtual controller is, that one controller can only have 8 axis and a specific number of buttons/switches (can't remember exactly how much, but 8 is the limit for axis). It's a windows issue, not realy a Target problem. I.e i have only the Warthog throttle included to my Target profiles to make use of the 2 and 3 way switches, but my pedals and my stick is excluded from the profile and conpletely mapped in DCS. Just because the axis are mapped in DCS anyways and not in Target and i didn't need the additional functions for the stick either. Target is a powerful tool. If y don't use Target (or similar software), you're missing a lot of the Warthogs potential. In competive multiplayer the Target script editor could almost be designated cheating. But even the GUI software is great IMO, not as difficult to use as the script editor (unless you can code) and provides nice features and functions. But you'll find very diverse opinions about Target here. Some ppl (like me) don't wanna miss it anymore, while for others it's the seed of evil. Joystick Gremlin is a similar software, not bound to any controls manufactor. If you don't like Target, you may wanna try this one. A lot of ppl say there is no need for separate mapping software, but i'd highly recommend one.

I use Target GUI to map the switches and buttons and i have no issues mapping each position of the 3 way switches. Are you trying to map the switches ingame or do you use a 3rd party software like Joystick Gremlin etc.?

I use the TM Target GUI software for that. Not a big deal, you can map each switch position for 2 and 3 way switches. Just make sure you set the signal to "pulse" instead of "hold" for the permanent switches.

Glad to hear that. Virpil is definately a good choice you won't regret, especially the WarBRD base is a excellent piece of equipment. I love mine, it's realy great. If you have some budget left, invest the 20€ in a throttle and stick dust cover. It may help the Hotas serving you well a long time. Same for additional equipment, as the WarBRD base only comes with 2 sets of springs (soft, heavy) and cams (avia sim soft center, avia sim no center). If you are playing other games besides DCS/Flight sims, the extra heavy springs and both cosmo sim cam sets (soft center/no center) may be a good investment as well. I purchased both, because i like some versatility for my other games. TM offers the Warthog/F-16 grip now standalone without the base. For exactly the same price Virpil offers the Constellation-Alpha grips for, but propably much better availability. If the Warthog grip is an option for you, that may be interesting for you. Search for TM F16 grip standalone or similar and you should find it.

Uhm... there is no difference between these two grips. At least not the ones from TM, they just renamed the Stick into F-16C Stick when the F-16C Viper DCS module launched early access and they started to sell the base separate from the grip and vice versa. It's a marketing thing, nothing else. If you want a specific F-16C Stick replica you have to go for Realsimulator FSSB R3 force sensitive base and their F-16 grip family i guess. https://realsimulator.com/f-16-side-grips/

It is compatible with the Warthog base as well as with the WarBRD base. I think even with the T50, but not sure on that. I got 2 universal baseplates and bored up the mounting holes to make one match the mount rail of my simrig and the other one to fit stronger M6 screws instead of M5. Not a big deal. Measures are in mm:

That's a great pit, i love it. Just a bit jealous that you got the MFD mounts with Monstertech Logo.. still going to steal a few ideas from you. How did you attach the center cougar angled? I got the MT MFD mounts too and was wondering how to do it for quite some time. Did you use the pitch/nick adapter from Monstertech, or did you built something on your own? cheers

The reason for that is mostly, that Foxx Mounts uses much smaller/thinner and therefore less stable aluminium profiles than Monstertech does. Monstertech uses massive 80mm x 40mm Item notch 8 profiles, Foxx Mounts uses way smaller profiles and the Monstertech ones hold better on the desk. Put both next to each other, the Monstertech mounts are massive compared to the Foxx Mounts. The cheaper price is not magically created, it has reasons. Not saying Foxx Mounts isn'ta good product, it definately is. But ppl should be aware of the difference and that Monstertech isn't more expensive for no reason. Check Jabbers review, at 1:40 both are placed next to each other and you will see the enormous difference in size.

Have you considered constructing something by yourself? I don't mean a rotation lock or something, but a little frame where you might mount an old car seat or similar onto. A good office/game chair offering what you need is propaly around 250-400€. For that price you could create something nice on your own easily. The aluminium profiles used by Monstertech are easy to get, easy to handle and relative cheap. That stuff is also very versatile and you can add more stuff (like Stick/throttle mount, mfd mount, keyboard/mouse tray etc.) over time whenever you got some money left for your hobby. These profiles are at 5-40€ per meter, depending on diameter and if silver or black. I took one of these profiles to build a MFD mount, as my simrig lacks a frame were they could be mounted to. Make yourself a plan, order each profile piece in the length you need, a few angle bracket and connector bracket kits and you wont even have to cut or drill anything by yourself. If you got the space, i'd 100% recommend that. Propably more satisfying and in the same price range...

The standard spring is best to use with a 5-10cm extension. Sahaj offers high quallity exchange springs. The green one is softer than the standard spring, the red is heavy for 10-20cm extensions and the blue is extra heavy for extensions above 20cm. Prices are boutique, but the quality is nice. https://warthog-extensions-by-sahaj.com/product-category/springs/ edit: When ordering from Sahaj, invest the money and order one of his silicone O-rings as well. They are worth the money, last longer than the original rubber O-ring of the Warthog and are much smoother. As easy to swap as the springs.

I drop the gear at 240-250 knots and wait for the Hornet to slow down to 180-190 knots before setting flaps to half. Small trim adjustments until the aircraft is down to 160-170 knots and then i set flaps to full. Propably not correct by the book, but works for me. Don't push or pull the stick, adjust AOA with the throttle and small trim adjustments to keep the FPI in the "E" bracket.

Similar issue here. Auto Login didn't work. I restarted DCS and was able to login, then joined a MP server and DCS crashed after 20 minutes. Is there a new option to leave comments on the crash report what might have caused the crash? Since then no joy with login so far.