GregP

I'm pretty sure Kneeboard Builder allows resizing and moving the kneeboard: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=129341

You have to set your initial waypoint to 'takeoff from parking hot'.

Huge thank-yous to both Wheelyjoe and heclak for these amazing guides! Absolutely incredible work, very much appreciated.

Just set your TrackIR 'center' keypress to be the same key that is assigned to the 'zoom normal' function within DCS.

In Shapeways before you upload the model, make sure that 'Units' is set to 'M' -- it defaults to mm, that's why the dimensions are off.

I've been using a 58-inch 4k TV in DCS for four years now. It seems that OLEDs are universally recognized as having better picture quality compared to LED/LCDs, but I've been wondering how that applies to DCS? Have any of you upgraded from a large LED/LCD to an OLED? Is it really that much of an improvement?

Yes, very easy sale and was nice to finally meet cichlidfan after many years of 'knowing' him on this forum. Hope you enjoy the T-50.

EDIT: SOLD I bought these new from VirPil in April 2017 (grip) and July 2018 (base) for a total of USD $382, but I've decided I no longer need them. They're in perfect condition with no problems at all, and I have the original packaging and receipts. I've used the grip maybe a total of 20 hours and the base less than 5 hours. The only modification I've done was swap out the default medium springs in the base for the lighter springs (VirPil includes lighter and heavier springs in addition to the default mediums). VirPil created a video showing how to do it here: According the the VirPil site, the base currently goes for 175 Euro (USD $209) and the grip goes for 130 Euro (USD $151), for a total of 305 Euro (USD $360) (and that's not even including VAT, of course). So I think asking USD $275, plus shipping costs, is a reasonable sale price. I'd prefer to ship within the US, but could also ship to UK/Europe. Apologies for the pictures being rotated, not sure how to fix that!

Just wanted to post back here that yes, it is indeed quite easy to upload to Shapeways the STL file(s) that OP posted. And now for $25 I've got a matte black plastic Harrier nozzle lever heading my way in about two weeks.

On the left, you mean? Yes, works fine with no issues.

From trial and error what I have found is that I get the best results when the TIR is about level with my head, thus why I have mounted it on a separate pole that is roughly halfway down my screen. When I tried to place it on top of my TV, the relatively short distance between my head and the screen caused problems. If I tried to elevate the clip above my head, wouldn't its offset from the center of rotation cause problems? I've never tried it, but I thought that one of the reasons it is able to track is because it's assuming that the LEDs are moving fairly close to the center of rotation in all axes.

I do, yeah, why?

I've used a narrow plastic cable conduit, with the TrackIR mounted on top, that is in front of but basically in line with the edge of my 58" screen. Seems to be the best solution I've tried yet but definitely isn't perfect. Just a trade-off of using a big screen, I guess.

Or even better, upload somewhere that 3D printing ignorant people like myself could just order one to be made and shipped, like Shapeways?

Unfortunately, for me, using the T-50 base's U-bracket to mount it to the WSP Warthog attachment plate (after drilling a hole as noted above) did not provide the stability I was looking for. So I went with a less elegant solution as shown here: two small C-clamps. Thought it might be helpful for anyone else who has the same issue.

Agreed, me too! Very timely as I just got notice yesterday that my T-50 base has shipped.

On 17 July I got a tracking number for a T-50 base that I ordered on 1 July.

Just wanted to confirm that majapahit's suggestion about turning down the brightness in the lua file does seem to help; I lowered both HUD and DDI font brightness to 150 and it's noticeably easier to read now. Not a permanent or ideal fix, but at least improves it for the time being.

1) Ensure 'User Snap-View Saving' is checked on the 'Misc' tab 2) Adjust view as desired 3) Press the snapview you want to override, e.g. LWin+KP8 4) Press RAlt+KP0 Your new snapview is now saved to LWin+KP8.

I can confirm this is still true. I ordered Debolestis's part on 7 June and with free shipping, it arrived today, 5 days later, here in the U.S. I've set curvature to 7 and it works perfectly, very happy with it.

Yep, me too. I also noticed that the English voiceover seems very bass-heavy, as compared to that snippet of Chinese that sounded much more balanced.

Presume this may be old news, but assigning the TDC Axis to the ministick in-game works just fine in 2.5.1.

I'm just getting into the Harrier module myself, and would have come across the same need (mapping TDC to ministick); and I also use JoyToKey too, so I'll give it a shot tonight and post back here with my results.

EDIT: SOLD Bought three XR3501s new last September for a triple screen setup but no longer need them. They are ultra widescreen with a resolution of 2560x1080 and run as high as 144Hz. All three in perfect condition, even have original boxes. They currently go for minimum $600 online each (which admittedly is a ridiculous price), so I think $350 each is a reasonable price. The boxes are huge and quite heavy, so at this point I'd prefer to have somebody local (I'm in Fairfax, VA) pick them up as opposed to trying to ship them.

In case you guys hadn’t seen it before, AlaskanGrizzly’s excellent Kneeboard Builder has a built-in ability to do this.