GregP

Well I decided to go ahead and buy a T-50CM2 grip and a WarBRD base. I can now confirm that no, if you try use a T-50CM2 grip on a TM Warthog base, you cannot use the VPC software to configure exactly which 19 of the 28 buttons on the grip that you want to be recognized. You can do this when using a VPC base, but not with a TM base. The limiting factor is in the VPC software, where you create a profile with the buttons you want to be functional: the first step in the process is selecting which base you're using, and only VPC bases are listed. So with a TM base, you can't even create a profile. It'll take me a while to adjust to the diffent feel of the WarBRD base compared to my TM WH base, but the 28 vs 19 buttons (in addition to the 8-way hat) are absolutely worth the upgrade, in my opinion.

Sold!

Edit: Sold. I bought this new in July but have since decided to go with a VirPil setup. It's had minimal use and is in perfect condition. Price is $160, shipped free anywhere within the continental US.

T-50CM2 limitations on TMW base? Actually I wasn’t planning to use any software at all, and instead just directly assign functions within DCS, which is how I’ve been doing it for several years now after tiring of creating Foxy etc profiles. I didn’t realize that TM or VPC software may allow selection of which buttons I wanted to enable. If that’s the case, getting the CM2 grip may still be worthwhile for me, as I realized my math was originally wrong above in that I left out the 8-way hat. So it’s 8-way hat plus 19 buttons when using the WH base — same as using a WH grip, which obviously makes sense! Part of the reason I’m considering the CM2 is that one of the red buttons on my WH has stopped working. Thus even without the 9 buttons I’d lose when not using a VPC base, I’d still gain one beyond what I have now (assuming the fault with my WH button resides in the grip rather than the base, of course!).

Thanks for the replies. But is that correct, that you can somehow choose which buttons to have work? I would rather think that they would work in sequential order, like buttons 1 through 19 would register but after that they would not. Anyway, i’m surprised that only 19 would work, because the Warthog technically has 21 buttons in addition to the 2-stage trigger: 3x 4-way hats 1x 4-way hat plus one center press button S1, S2, S3 and S4 I bought a T-50 base about a year ago but ended up selling it as I didn’t like the ‘notchiness’ of the stock’s travel, i.e. the feeling that the stick preferred to be moved only along the X and Y axes as opposed to feeling equal force everywhere. My simply-modded Warthog base (removed the big spring and moved the 4 small springs to near the top of the base) now provides near-perfectly equal stick forces in every direction. Thus I’m hesitant to consider any other stock base as they all seem to have the notchiness I dislike.

I’m considering buying the CM2 grip but I have not been able to determine exactly which buttons and axes will not work on the TMW base, which is what I intend to pair it with. Can anyone who’s tried this confirm for me exactly what works and what doesn’t?

I recently upgraded an i5-2500k-based system built in 2011 (running a 4.8Ghz overclock with 16GB DDR3) to an i7-9700k + 32GB DDR4 setup, and to be honest performance (min/max FPS wise) has not changed at all (using a 1080 Ti brought over from old system). The only noticeable difference is that DCS uses upward of 21GB of RAM on occasion, which I never realized was possible when I only had 16 on the old system. Presumably that will reduce stuttering in general.

Andre, thank you! After I initially got it working, I never came back and checked out this thread. Turns out I had exactly the problem you mention -- SSA was no longer updating itself. Renaming the 2.0 folder solved the issue. Thanks!

Wondering if anyone else has encountered this problem: Several months ago I bought the VirPil T-50 grip and used it with my Warthog base for a while. I ended up selling the T-50 as I didn't like it as much as the Warthog grip, but after reattaching the WH grip, I found that my S2 button was no longer recognized. I tried driver uninstall/reinstall, unplugging/replugging into multiple USB ports, removing and replacing the grip from the base, etc. but nothing worked. Then one day it just magically started working again. More recently I got the F-18 grip and now the same thing has happened again -- my Warthog grip's S2 button is no longer recognized. I suspect this may have something to do with the F-18 grip not having any equivalent to S2 (i.e. the F-18 grip lacks one button compared to the Warthog grip), but I'm not sure. Regardless, again nothing works to fix it. Has anyone else encountered this issue, and if so, found any solution to it?

Received mine a week ago but didn't get time to install it until today. Easy setup and as everyone else has said, absolutely night and day compared to the default one. Highly recommended!

Thank you, that seems to have done the trick!

Let me guess -- did your Windows 10 recently update to version 1903? I wasn't having any issues with SSA until this update, and now following standard advice here is no longer working. Has anyone else had any issues getting SSA to install and/or start up recently? We can't be the only ones.

Awesome! Looking forward to it.

Thank you Chuck! Awesome work as usual. I can finally rationalize putting real time into the Tomcat even though I bought it the first day!

Got my new F/A-18 grip today! True, I should’ve phrased it differently: although it’s the same number of buttons, the loss of a full hat created a bit of work for me to reconfigure my setup, as I could no longer group four related commands onto that lost hat.

Got my new F/A-18 grip today! Mine arrived last Friday, replacing the Warthog grip on a slightly modded Warthog base (years ago I pulled out the main large spring in the base and rely on just the four small springs, placed on top of the gimbal, which now give me perfectly equal stick forces in every direction). To be honest, I simply didn’t like the way the Hornet stick felt at first. I also hadn’t quite realized that we’d be losing an entire hat worth of buttons. As mentioned above, the pinky button seems too far away and I can’t get the leverage required to press it unless I move my hand down from the main resting position; and the brake paddle seems too short. Resisting the urge to send it back, I left it attached over the weekend and it’s now grown on me. I adjusted my setup to accommodate the fewer buttons and less reliance on needing the pinky button. Having tried the VirPil T-50 before, I still think that stick just feels better ergonomically, but the TM Hornet stock definitely feels closer to the ‘weighty replica’ feel of the Warthog than the plasticky T-50 did, and I think with some more hours with it, I’ll start to prefer it over my Warthog stick.

EDIT: ALL SOLD I bought these new last year for a triple-screen setup, but I no longer need them. All three in perfect condition with no problems. I even have the original boxes. As I'm in northern Virginia, really hoping to find somebody in the DC/MD/VA area who can do a local pickup; but if shipping is a must, I'll be happy to get an estimate for you ahead of time. Pricing is $325 each, $600 for two, or $850 for all three. https://viotek.com/computer-monitors/curved-gaming-monitor-gn32q/ Apologies for the upside-down pictures ... no matter what I do, I cannot get this forum to ever display my pictures correctly.

I just preordered one and the total cost, with the cheapest shipping option, for those of us in the US is currently $203.

Yeah, this guide is an excellent resource, thanks so much for putting the time into it and sharing with the community.

Got you beat by five days, so yeah, I'd support that. :)

EDIT: SOLD I'm selling my Buttkicker Sim Kit; I had it attached to the base of my flight sim chair. Goes for $220 new (actually $176 after the 20% discount they currently have): https://thebuttkicker.com/bk-sk/ Although I forgot to show them in the attached picture, I do have the 6 rubber isolators shown on the website. Price is $110 which includes shipping within the U.S. I don't know why the picture is attached upside down, but I can't figure out how to fix it.

EDIT: SOLD I'm selling my second track IR unit as I don't ever use it. It's in perfect condition, no problems at all. $90 includes shipping cost within the US.

I dunno: start to lose consciousness and then become aware of the Matrix? Makes perfect sense to me.

It has certainly been frustrating to watch other companies come present their new controllers that look so great but then supply issues make it very difficult to actually purchase anything. Your work looks outstanding so far, so if you can manage to make these things actually available to buyers within a reasonable amount of time, you may quickly jump ahead of all the other competitors. Looking forward to seeing more of your work.

One thing I noticed immediately is that the HUD symbology is very misleading if you look at it from the perspective of modern HUDs with their dynamic flight path markers. At first I was treating the bore sight line as an FPM and I couldn't figure out why I couldn't maintain level flight. It was then that I realized that putting that dot at 0 pitch angle almost never actually results in level flight. Instead you need to get comfortable looking at the vertical velocity ladder on the left and constantly trimming to zero it out.