jocko417

Haven't even got to that yet, just exploring the Channel Map right now. Let me take a closer look

Great cockpit in VR, very immersive. Love the snap, crackle, pop of the Merlins when I chop the throttles in the flare for landing. Still getting my bindings set up, what a blast this airplane is to fly, great work! Edit: Nine 4K texture files, this thing will be a beast to skin... <cough> Template? <cough>

Lovely!

Yeah, one of these days I’ll get to Wetaskiwin too. They have the only Sabre Mk.3 there, a test bed for the Orenda engines Canada used to build for our fighters back in the day. That particular airplane is also famous for being lent to Jacqueline Cochran, who flew a closed course at Edwards AFB, breaking the womens’ speed record and also becoming the first woman to fly faster than the speed of sound. I went to Nanton a few years back, to see the national Bomber Command memorial, and of course the Lancaster. They had a great idea for displaying cockpits at that museum, the instrument panels were displayed separately, fully restored, behind glass, to stop people from pressing their fingers and faces against canopies The Lancaster that went over to the UK is based at Hamilton, Ontario. What an amazing trip that would have been!

Yep! Also got to Calgary to see 846. Cockpits differ. 703 has been restored to how the airframe would have appeared while serving in the RCAF in 1966, in the strike/recon role. 703 is the most accurate restoration of a CF-104 I’ve ever seen. A lot of work had to be done “undoing” the various changes the airframe had received after being sold to Denmark and converted to the F-104G standard. Only a couple more things need to be done for it to truly be a CF-104 again. 846’s cockpit was also changed to the F-104G configuration after being sold to Denmark. I’m assuming it has remained unchanged since the museum acquired the airframe but I haven’t had a chance to check my CF-104 references yet.

Thanks Avantar, can’t wait for axis mapping!

Finally made it to Manitoba!!! Woohoo!

Camo skins on the way later this month. Just tweaking some stuff right now.

Fine work, Megalax. You’ve reminded me it’s high time I updated my F-5 template…

Ok, I tried right clicking the installer and selecting "Troubleshoot Compatibility" and then it installed correctly.

Hmm, well the Jet Seat and SSA programs installed without problems, so I’m not sure why the SSM software won’t install.

Hi guys, am using an older Gametrix (black and orange) jet seat with the Sim Shaker for Aviators software. I would like to connect my Buttkicker transducer as well and split effects between the two shakers. I have downloaded the Sim Shaker Sound Module software but it won’t install. I get the spinning blue ring but then it just stops after a second or so. Do I have to have the hardware connected for the software to install? Still waiting on an external audio adapter for the BK. Any ideas? Thanks.

Hi, I have downloaded SimShaker Sound Module installer but it won't install. I get about one second of the spinning blue ring next to the mouse cursor and then, nothing. Windows 10, Jet seat, and SSA already installed and working. Any ideas? Thanks! UPDATE: Got it working, had to right click it and choose "Troubleshoot Compatibility" for it to install.

Yes, this ^^^^.

Please excuse the mess. Still tinkering with positioning of the major components for best ergonomics. Once I’m satisfied with how everything feels I’ll start on cable management Aging Obutto seat has been retained until the cockpit version of MT’s new office/sim chair is available. Looking forward to the center stick cutout, and being free of the side bolsters that now get in the way of my throttle arm since retiring my TMWH throttle and moving to WinWing.

Yes, Monstertech just replied to an email I sent them. They said once the new MTS sim rig development is complete they will look at reintroducing some sort of heel plate. Until then, I may make something out of plywood. I have been using Slaws’ ME-109 style pedals for years so never had to think about resting my heels on anything but the pedals themselves. When I retired the Obutto rig and moved to MT I figured I’d treat myself to new pedals too, as the 109 pedals don’t have any mounting holes. Now waiting for my Slaw RX Viper pedals to show up next week, already have the damper sitting here. Can’t wait. My new rig will be the silver version of yours

Having just made the switch to an MTX rig, I'm also interested in the heel plate. Is it a special order?

Does this help? (WIP) We really need a '50s NATO/Warsaw Pact map...

I’ve had pretty good results with the nVidia plugin: I make “normal map templates” with different layers for each - panel lines, rivets, fasteners, holes, screws, etc., with opacities set to personal taste but no more than 20 percent, depending on how heavy you want the effect to look. The background colour is a neutral grey. 3D effects such as raised edges or panels, are in white, at about 10% opacity. When you are ready, flatten the image and then use the plugin. Save as a DXT5 dds file, no mip maps. I use these settings for the plugin:

Great news!

Yes, those micro switch connections are handy, I have some military grade guarded push buttons on my F-86 button boxes that can be wired both ways. No need to worry about if you require a normally open vs a normally closed switch! The gear idea should probably work, as I said above, the gear ratio is such that 90 degrees of throttle lever throw should give 220 degrees of pot travel out of a max of 270 degrees the pot is limited to. I decided on pots because they are cheap to replace and the 2.25” gear fits the shaft perfectly. The pots are good quality, I got them from Leo Bodnar, and I’ll be using one of his joystick boards as well. I have the parts catalogue for the F-86, if the manual ranging pot is the same as the F-100’s they were supplied by a Chicago-based telephone company back in the day Here’s my F-100 throttle quadrant, similar to yours but whatever model mine came from had a shorter AB range:

Hi Hiromachi! I also have an F-100 throttle quadrant, similar to yours, but with a smaller AB range. To be honest, my F-86 throttle project stalled out because I've been re-imagining my home cockpit setup. Once I get things finalized with the cockpit structure I'll get back to building a box to mount the throttle in that I can then attach to the cockpit frame. The F-100 quadrant has a couple of bolt holes on both the front and back of the frame, making it MUCH easier to mount in a cockpit than the F-86 quadrant. This is the other reason I haven't finished the F-86 quadrant, I may just decide to go with the F-100 instead, because it would work well for both the F-86, as well as the early afterburning jets like the F-100/104/105, etc. You would just have to add a three position switch somewhere for the flap control. The F-100 had it mounted just outboard of the quadrant, kind of like the A-10 flap switch. I too have been unable to find any wiring diagrams of the F-100 throttle (unless you want to drop 400 bucks on eBay for the aircraft electrical system manual!!!). As you pointed out, the F-100 quadrant is a simplified and improved version of the F-86 quadrant, with fewer parts, and the obvious difference of the afterburner range being added, and as I stated above, no built in flap lever. I plan to map the throttle axis the same way as the F-86 quadrant, using an arc of toothed gear cemented into the throttle cable channel of the wheel located at the throttle arm pivot point, turning another gear attached to the throttle axis pot. See my pics above. You should probably plan on using 3rd party key assignment software like RS Mapper or something else to ensure the various switches work as designed. Having the ability to map one command for when the switch is "pressed" (ON) and another command when the switch is "released" (OFF) makes up for the fact these switches are not powered while in the OFF position. Examples: The push buttons in the grip can be easily wired up like any ON/OFF switch and assigned in the game like a typical DirectX push button, or to send keyboard commands by using 3rd party software. The speed brake switch is like an ON/OFF/ON switch. The center position of the speed brake switch may have to be mapped to command "HOLD" or "OFF" when released from either IN or OUT, or you may be stuck with FULLY open or FULLY closed. The CUT-OFF/IGNITION micro switch behind the idle stop could be mapped with software so that when it is pressed the engine stops, and when released the engine starts. So, when you pull the throttle back around the idle gate it hits the switch and shuts the engine down, and when you advance it forward around the idle gate it starts the engine, just like using the start and stop key bindings in DCS. The afterburner function introduces a new challenge. It's easy enough to assign an "afterburner ON/afterburner OFF" command when hitting the micro switch by moving the throttle outboard and inboard, but being able to adjust level of AB while in the AB range is something I haven't figured out yet. 3rd party mapping software may be able to do that. The manual ranging pot/twist grip is a pain in the butt. You may get lucky and have a good pot, but if it doesn't work/spikes badly, you would have to replace it and come up with a way of attaching the twist shaft to the pot shaft, as well as dealing with what happens if the new pot is not the same size as the pot mount... it may be easiest for now to just forget about manual ranging and leave the pot installed but disconnected. Removing the pot may introduce some play in the throttle grip because of the spring force acting on the twist shaft end. Hope this helps, feel free to ask more questions, you've reminded me me I need to finish this project! Maybe Sokol1_br or others who know more than I do about this stuff could chime in

New pilot and cockpit models? Very exciting!

I’m in the same boat, just received my WW throttle yesterday. Thinking of building some sort of a box to bolt to the side of the Obutto Rev, and then just drop the throttle into the box from above. Box will be deep enough to rest on the floor, and will be stabilized by being bolted to the Obutto frame. Will need to have a hole in the front for the USB cable.