Supersheep Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 Hi! I read these the other day. No video of the handle, but there are inside views of it. http://www.simhq.com/_technology3/technology_174b.html And this, more informative: http://www.hotas.gr/content/view/90/96/lang,el/ (You can click the images) Supersheep The PVC Pipe Joystick Stand How to thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tietze Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 (edited) Based on the Molykote-soltion I made a follow-up to this thread: Greasing up the Warthog. Edited August 14, 2012 by tietze Please fix the KA-50 bugs :-) Black Shark: Controller profile & setup, TrackIR profile, pit. Warthog HOTAS: Lubing the stick and extending the stick. Posts on howto customize switches in DCS & . Must-have mods for DCS World and KA-50 (mostly JSGME). Casual couch pilot, watching capped.tv... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elchacal Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 Based on the Molykote-soltion I a follow-up to this thread: Greasing up the Warthog. Excelent! :thumbup: [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
degoe Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Ok, for anybody in here that wants some real quality flight controls you should look here http://aerotronicsllc.com/index.html . These guys make the real stuff capable up to 10g and if you provide the dough I think they will be more than happy to make an a10c controller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobek Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Good luck on getting a contract from them... Good, fast, cheap. Choose any two. Come let's eat grandpa! Use punctuation, save lives! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luckyluca Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Hello all, Thanks I'm going to try the removing of the central spring today (I never liked the strong recentering) however I have a two very quick questions before attempting this: 1) If you applied the no-center-spring mod, are you still happy today after a few months with the result, or did you endup adding washers? 2) Anything contrary to spraying a little silicongrease over the current grease? I'd rather add silicongrease rather than washing the ball and risking severing cables and greasing it again from scratch. (fyi silicongrease is oily and non-corrosive for plastic so should be harmless). THanks for your support guys! Luca Simultools Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobek Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 2) Anything contrary to spraying a little silicongrease over the current grease? I'd rather add silicongrease rather than washing the ball and risking severing cables and greasing it again from scratch. (fyi silicongrease is oily and non-corrosive for plastic so should be harmless). I wouldn't mix greases, at best, the very low viscosity silicon grease will wash the thick grease out, at worst the two greases could react and cause a mess. Safe bet is to not mix the grease. Good, fast, cheap. Choose any two. Come let's eat grandpa! Use punctuation, save lives! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luckyluca Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 thanks for the tip, I'll leave the current grease then (I just wouldn't want to mess with washing the pieces for fear of damaging the wires, I have a bad record when it comes to be gentle with wires). However I'll go ahead and remove the main spring :) let's hope the four springs will be adeguate and won't wear out for a long time. Is anybody using washers in the end? does it detract in smoothness? thx L Simultools Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supersheep Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 (edited) Do you simply cut the length you think is excessive off? Nothing else to it? I find it hilarious to cut away parts of this $$$ piece :D Report back please, maybe I want do do this as well (inna distant future..) Super- Edited January 14, 2012 by Supersheep Spelling The PVC Pipe Joystick Stand How to thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlainSight Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 thanks for the tip, I'll leave the current grease then (I just wouldn't want to mess with washing the pieces for fear of damaging the wires, I have a bad record when it comes to be gentle with wires). However I'll go ahead and remove the main spring :) let's hope the four springs will be adeguate and won't wear out for a long time. Is anybody using washers in the end? does it detract in smoothness? thx L If you put four small springs to the top (if that's what you're planning), you loose much of the travel, because the ring doesn't rise to the top. I cut away some of the main spring, first the top flat turn, then another quarter, to get the resistance i wanted. IMO, you should leave the main spring in. [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luckyluca Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 I removed the main spring and moved the small four ones at the top. it was better but a hair too soft so I took four 2.5mm washers and applied them at the top between the round metal plate and the springs, this way the don't create friction as they don't go up and down but still keep the four springs compressed. I've also introduced a little silicon grease on the four metal pegs and springs, I think it helps. I quite like it now, I might consider cutting the main spring but for now i'm quite satisfied, thanks L Simultools Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spikenet Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 (edited) I semi-dissassembled the stick. Put some "slick-honey" grease on the ball and that helped alot! Everything was very dry inside, maybe the grease machine was having a bad day on the assembly line?? Did the spring mod but it was too little tension. Be nice to be 1/2 way between the big spring and the small... Is it possible to acquire replacement springs? Would be good for fine-tuning. Edited February 1, 2012 by spikenet update. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xhaos Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 (edited) Though this is a old thread, keep in mind how friction works. There are two kinds of friction applied to this scenarios. Static friction, when you try to move the stick but haven't managed to get it going yet, and kinetic friction when the stick is already moving. The problem is that for any given surfaces and lubricant, static friction is always higher than kinetic. To overcome this problem, where "infinite" smoothness is required, you need to use materials that have the same static and kinetic friction coefficients. A good such material though probably not the best is polished iron and perhaps the worst is scratched plastic. Teflon is I think our best possible material. http://ffden-2.phys.uaf.edu/211_fall2002.web.dir/ben_townsend/staticandkineticfriction.htm Edited February 10, 2012 by xhaos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supersheep Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 So, we need a way to make an un-sticky material stick on our balls (no, you get it..).. On frying pans the process involves heat, but thats not too good for the stick. Just adding a teflon grease won't hold long, I guess? Super- The PVC Pipe Joystick Stand How to thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xhaos Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 no teflon grease will not stay, you would need to mod it in such a way that you build like a bathtub and fill it with grease so that the join is always submerged in it. What needs to be done is that you should cut the plastic parts and replace them with polished iron. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Hi mate look here http://www.firstfighterwing.com they have the .exe file, thats all you need mate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
degoe Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Hi mate look here http://www.firstfighterwing.com they have the .exe file, thats all you need mate .exe for what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cichlidfan Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 (edited) I have a good idea what is being refered to though I am somewhat surprised that they would make it available like that. AFIAK it is still not public domain. EDIT: ...and I have no idea who the post is directed at (read back two pages or so) Edited February 13, 2012 by cichlidfan ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Hero, i7-6700K, Noctua NH-D14 Cooler, Crucial 32GB DDR4 2133, Samsung 950 Pro NVMe 256GB, Samsung EVO 250GB & 500GB SSD, 2TB Caviar Black, Zotac GTX 1080 AMP! Extreme 8GB, Corsair HX1000i, Phillips BDM4065UC 40" 4k monitor, VX2258 TouchScreen, TIR 5 w/ProClip, TM Warthog, VKB Gladiator Pro, Saitek X56, et. al., MFG Crosswind Pedals #1199, VolairSim Pit, Rift CV1 :thumbup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spikenet Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 wow talk about being obtuse! Any point in sending people to download a file that you have to be a member to access?? duh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
degoe Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 I have a good idea what is being refered to though I am somewhat surprised that they would make it available like that. AFIAK it is still not public domain. EDIT: ...and I have no idea who the post is directed at (read back two pages or so) I'm a member but don't know what he means, and now I really want to know. Cant you just tell me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cichlidfan Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 I'm a member but don't know what he means, and now I really want to know. Cant you just tell me? The Falcon 4 executable that appears to be available for DL. I sincerely doubt that site has permission to distribute that file. ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Hero, i7-6700K, Noctua NH-D14 Cooler, Crucial 32GB DDR4 2133, Samsung 950 Pro NVMe 256GB, Samsung EVO 250GB & 500GB SSD, 2TB Caviar Black, Zotac GTX 1080 AMP! Extreme 8GB, Corsair HX1000i, Phillips BDM4065UC 40" 4k monitor, VX2258 TouchScreen, TIR 5 w/ProClip, TM Warthog, VKB Gladiator Pro, Saitek X56, et. al., MFG Crosswind Pedals #1199, VolairSim Pit, Rift CV1 :thumbup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 sorry i was replying to another thread and made a mistake, chill out...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prophet Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 This seems like the same problem the X45 and X52 had. The inverse cone that the spring pressed on, developed ridges, that then created the un-smoothness. I used a dry teflon grease which helped, but eventually moved to the Cougar. Considering the mods done to the Cougar, I can definitely see one of you guys making a new ball on ball 'gimbal'. Should be much easier than the Cougar gimbals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Succellus Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 So in the end what is BEST, PAO (Lithium) based greases ? HaF 922, Asus rampage extreme 3 gene, I7 950 with Noctua D14, MSI gtx 460 hawk, G skill 1600 8gb, 1.5 giga samsung HD. Track IR 5, Hall sensed Cougar, Hall sensed TM RCS TM Warthog(2283), TM MFD, Saitek pro combat rudder, Cougar MFD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NikonGuy Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Hi guys I have been following this thread for a while and only just got around to modifying my warthog stick. My background is aircraft maintenance engineering and mechanical design engineering. A couple of things though: I have removed the large spring and placed the four small springs on top of the teflon plate but looking at this, its not a good option as the springs totally compress when the stick is moved all the way in any direction. When you push the stick hard against the stops its the compressed springs that are now those stops. Eventually they will fail if used in this manner. For light use it would be fine for a while. A better option would be to have a large spring made from a lower gauge spring steel, not easy I know. As for binding, this too has plagued my stick and after some investigation I have found the cause to be the teflon plate that slides up and down the four chrome posts. Mine was slightly out of alignment with the four chrome posts so I loosened the screws that hold the teflon plate down and operated the stick mechanism to re-center everything. Then gently re-tightened them. As they are countersunk screws if you tighten too much the countersink could just pull it back out of alignment :( While I was there I also added Molycote to the teflon plate and the rubber ring on the underside of the square opening around stick mechanism. My stick is now as smooth as a babies bum :) Although I will be putting a reduced rate large spring in it at some stage. Cheers NG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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