Thrustmaster Warthog Joystick-Button Issue

[Gruman]

Hey Guys,

 

First of all, this issue is not related to the DCS A-10c Software. More likely a hardware failure of the Joystick. :joystick:

 

Well, yesterday I finally received my new Joystick, the Thrustmaster Warthog... Blown away by the feeling of the whole thing, I started installing the Joystick. Installed first the Software TARGET (for the drivers), rebooted and then plugged the Joystick and the Throttle in.

The Throttle works perfectly, the Axis of the Joystick too. But all the buttons of the Joystick are dead except the trigger... This button triggers all Buttons on the Joystick. First I thought, maybe there was a mistake in the key bindings, but they were all right. I jumped into the Windows Game Controller Configuration and taken a look at the Joystick buttons... Same issue out the game too. As soon as you press the Trigger, all the Buttons are "triggered/pressed".

 

Is this a known problem? The Joystick was completly new/sealed from my vendor. I allready sended a support email to Thrustmaster, but from what I heard about the Thrustmaster Support, I thought it would be faster to post here, if its just a minor thing... There isnt a wrong way to connect the base plate and the Joystick, right? :joystick::cry:

Or should I just send it back to the vendor and request a new one?

 

Thanks

 

Best regards

 

[Edit] To make sure it wasnt a related to my computer, I tested the Stick on my Laptop with a clean TARGET install and got the same issue.

Edited March 29, 2011 by Gruman
Additional Information

[YoYo]

Im user of TH Warthog and joystick and throttle works very fine (with Target too) in DCS A-10C.

Did You install Drivers? TARGET its only Software but remember about Drivers. You can do update of firmware too.

[Gruman]

There are NO driver included in the TARGET software? Are you sure? There were two requests while TARGET installation to install drivers for two devices?!

 

But I will definitly try in the evening to install the dedicated drivers and update the Firmware of the Stick. Worth a shot.

Thank you.

[ilikepie]

sounds like there could be pinched wires in the stick. another user was finding that every time he rolled left, his gun and any missiles fired.

 

he had a pinched wire in the ball joint of the stick in the base. may be a case of the same thing, but be wary that if you open it up it MAY void any warranty.

 

here is the thread, it may help form a plan of action

Edited March 29, 2011 by ilikepie

[Gruman]

Just installed the Drivers and the new Firmwares. But sadly all the buttons still doesnt work... Now I have to wait for Thrustmaster getting back to me... :( :joystick: :helpsmilie:

 

Well, dont really want to open the joystick yet. Wont void my warrenty without guarantee from thrustmaster

 

[Edit] This Topic is probably better moved to the Input and Output section of the Forums... Sorry for that...

Edited March 29, 2011 by Gruman

[Burner]

Hang in there. My suggestion is to return it to the vendor and have them send a replacement. This is ultimately what Tmaster Support will tell you. I had an issue with the POV Hat on 2 separate units and had to return them both. No issue with #3 after 2 months of flying.

[Speedbrake]

I just got a Warthog HOTAS and plugged it in. You have to download all the software from Thrustmasters website both drivers and T.A.R.G.E.T. although you really don't need TARGET to have it operate. Once I loaded the drivers I was able to use all the buttons and switches in DCS A-10C although the TRIM Hat is set for views. See search separate forum entry to see how to set it to trim if you have TIR like I do.

 

Maybe you need to have both units plugged into get them to properly work. I never tried one alone.

[Gruman]

Ran out of patience yesterday waiting for the email, I just called the swiss hotline. After 15 min of waiting, I finally got connected to one of the support guys. He told me there was probably a problem and I have to send the Base of the joystick (and maybe the Grip) to Thrustmaster for repair or more likely replacement.

 

So I will be out of a warthog for the next couple days / weeks :cry:

 

I tried it on two computers with the official drivers, so there is definitly a problem with the Joystick.

 

But thanks for the inputs!

 

Best regards

[Burner]

Might be faster to send it back to the vendor and get a replacement rather than sending it back to Tmaster for repair.

[Ptroinks]

I just ordered my TM 'hog today, but I am very, very, very anxious about whether I get a fully functional one, or one with issues like what I read (too many) about here on the forum :(. But I guess knowing that there are issues with it prepares me somewhat. I'm glad I have a backup-stick (the one I'm using now).

It's funny how things can either be well made on the outside OR the inside, but not both, and it's extremely frustrating! Saitek seems to have it the other way around, in my view. I have had issues with Saitek products, but nothing big. Has it become impossible to make something that just works?

[Sarge55]

Ptroinks, I know how you feel. I had the anxious wait when I orderd mine. However, it worked great and still does. I'm presuming that the majority of the Warthogs are trouble free. It is a great stick.

[as179mike]

Hang in there. My suggestion is to return it to the vendor and have them send a replacement. This is ultimately what Tmaster Support will tell you. I had an issue with the POV Hat on 2 separate units and had to return them both. No issue with #3 after 2 months of flying.

 

Same pov issue with one I bought at micro center today. The pov only registers right an no other directions. Installed updated drivers and firmware and no resolution. Returning to micrometer tomorrow.

 

Might be an older unit. Firmware was rev 9 on the stick and 11 on the throttle.

[Burner]

Bummer. I had 2 units with the same issue (POV hat 1). My third unit has performed perfectly. Good luck!

[A10FAN]

Bummer. I had 2 units with the same issue (POV hat 1). My third unit has performed perfectly. Good luck!

 

I'm glad i'm not the only one with this problem POV stays on right unless you move it around a couple times

[as179mike]

I just got my new one from tigerdirect. No issues. It also came with the latest firmware so might have been an issue with earlier hardware. The unit number on the one with the POV problem was 21--something. The new one is 71--something.

 

I also noticed the new stick had a yellow arrow sticker on the base and the control to show you how to mate the two. I guess people were assembling them incorrectly on initial release because my first one didn't have those.

[hassata]

Definitely something wrong, and probably a pinched wire as noted above. When I took the base off of mine to cockpit-mount, one of the wires was flattened under a screw. I wrapped it with tape and made sure to tuck it away. I'd say take it back to the vendor straight away and get a replacement. They can send it back to TM, and you can by flying in no time.

[IB2EZ2C]

It's called Warranty of Merchanibility. You bought an item from a retailer and it should work as advertised/described or should be replaced by like item(s) (which is how most return policies read), or your money refunded. Here's more info and the law that backs it up:

http://www.law.cornell.edu/ucc/2/2-314.html

[FSKRipper]

Ok, this thread is old but I encountered the same Problem today. I have my stick since 11 months. This evening all Buttons stopped working except the Trigger which activates all other functions when pressed (in Windows and Device analyzer of Target Script Editor, no matter if a Profile is loaded or not). Axis working fine so far but i will return the stick to the vendor. :mad:

[PE_Tigar]

I had (and have :() the same thing - opened it and there were three wires severed. Actually it started with that damn ring delaminating and me having to open the stick to put it back in. And had to do it again - but in the process must've pinched the wires. I did repair the wires (some soldering was involved) but one of the wires gave way again. Now I could get back to it with a soldering iron but frankly I'm a bit tired of all the shenanigans, and as one of my old high-school teachers said - never repair a wire, replace it.

 

So I thought about asking does anyone know what's the name and type of that often-pinched wire that connects the stick connector with the stick motherboard? I'd either want to buy a replacement or at least buy the wire and connector and make a replacement.

[Lucky]

I had (and have :() the same thing - opened it and there were three wires severed. Actually it started with that damn ring delaminating and me having to open the stick to put it back in. And had to do it again - but in the process must've pinched the wires. I did repair the wires (some soldering was involved) but one of the wires gave way again. Now I could get back to it with a soldering iron but frankly I'm a bit tired of all the shenanigans, and as one of my old high-school teachers said - never repair a wire, replace it.

 

So I thought about asking does anyone know what's the name and type of that often-pinched wire that connects the stick connector with the stick motherboard? I'd either want to buy a replacement or at least buy the wire and connector and make a replacement.

 

Why not get it from Thrustmaster Support. Open a ticket with them. They most likely will sell you everything you need to fix it.

[PE_Tigar]

Thanks for the advice Lucky - contacted them, and they'll sell me the part(s) for EUR 17.50 with shipping. They were quite quick to respond, and generally very expedient - very good service I'd say.

[NeilWillis]

I had the switch on the left hand throttle break. Contacted Thrustmaster, and they replaced it free of charge. Fitting it was a doddle. Can't criticise them for excellent customer service.

[Church]

+1 to same symptoms of only fire button1 working via triggering all stick's buttons simultaneously (checked via start>Set up USB game controllers (at control panel) Event Tester).

+1 to same reason (when regreasing, broke two wires, yellow and brown, from ones going to ps/2 alike connector).

As had no soldering iron around, cleaned wire ends from insulation, spiral-folded ends together, applied a bit of tape for insulation. On test run all buttons started working.

Pity, that wires broke leaving only very short ends inside gimbal. Had to break off small grey thingie with magnet to enable pulling out wires for access after unscrewing ps/2 connector, and later on glue back that magnet piece. Would be nicer if it had been attached via screws. Gonna wait for tomorrow for glue to completely dry out and assembly everything back together.

[f-18hornet]

Did you mean this? When I've in a specific angle (only this one) and button 1 pressed all buttons look like pressed together. Is there a fix for it? I noticed it few weeks ago after 2.5 years of using without any issues.

[lxsapper]

Most likely a pinched wire. It happened to me once with the FLCS grip connected to the warthog base (too long to explain, maybe the video clears it up

). I mention this because after I found the faulty wire (problem with the hasty wire isolation I did after soldering the wires from the grip to the cable) I could use the grip again but had some ghosting issues when pressing 2 or more buttons simultanious. After re-ataching the warthog grip I concluded that my Wathog base was still working fine, and that the wires short circuit damaged the logic circuit inside the FLCS grip itself (lucky me).

This all to say "hang in there and fingers crossed" as the FLCS, COUGAR and Warthog grip's insides are very identical right down to the electronics. The Cougar and Warthog use a more recent modern and minituarized version of the logic chips than the FLCS does, but they do exactly the same function.

 

On another note I was able to repair the S2 button on my Warthog's stick wich was defaulting to a allways on situation, but that was a problem with the button itself and not related to this sort of malfunction.