lxsapper Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 I supose you could mount it so that it started to lift the seat after it was extended somewhat. I'm sure the remainder displacement would be satisfactory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hansolo Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 Very nice HarSu, Like your setup. Looks very sturdy :thumbup: I am trying to go the car-seat way but it proved a little more tricky than initially anticipated :lol: Cheers Hans 132nd Virtual Wing homepage & 132nd Virtual Wing YouTube channel My DCS-BIOS sketches & Cockpit Album Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarSu Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share Posted October 23, 2013 Hi! I know this might be wrong forum to ask this kind of question, but ... anyways.:music_whistling: My problem is that, when I push my seat controller button to go down and release the button, my motors won´t stop running right away, but they keep rolling on "idle". So it is pretty impossible to get the point where you want your seat to be. So, I have 24V DC power source, and I´m going to use 1 DPDT On-Off-On switch to change polarity (UP and DOWN), and of course there is 2 limit switches. Can any one tell me how to CUT motor overrun (Idle)?:helpsmilie: I have read some Google stuff, that component called MOSFET can brake DC motor, but I didn´t find anything useful for my 24V. motors. If someone knows anything things like 24V. Dc motor braking, let me know. And YES, I know there is Arduino, But NOT yet, I have to learn something...:P HarSu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Barnes Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 I'm not sure of the particular components electrically you made need, but certainly lowering the gear ratio would help if you could do it. The best weathered A-10C skins for download HERE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarSu Posted October 29, 2013 Author Share Posted October 29, 2013 Hi. I'm not sure of the particular components electrically you made need, but certainly lowering the gear ratio would help if you could do it. Thanks for advice :thumbup:, but it's nearly impossible to modify the gear system of the motor unless you build whole new casing to it.... Anyway, I managed to get my electronics to work so that the motor stops right when I release the switch, so there is no more "idle". Also I put one quite heavy spring in the mechanism that should help the motor to raise the seat. So far so good.:music_whistling: NOW, my next concern is The height of the control stick?:helpsmilie: I´m pretty sure that I saw those dimensions in Deadmans thread http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=57846 or somewhere else like week or less ago, but now I can´t find them anywhere. It could be also possible that I have seen dreams.:P Cheers. HarSu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadman Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 You might want to express interest in this project. http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1912421&postcount=520 https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824 CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dropship Pilot Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 These pictures might help: Cheers, DSP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cichlidfan Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 These pictures might help: Cheers, DSP Might be more info if you look through KLaFaille's threads as well. ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Hero, i7-6700K, Noctua NH-D14 Cooler, Crucial 32GB DDR4 2133, Samsung 950 Pro NVMe 256GB, Samsung EVO 250GB & 500GB SSD, 2TB Caviar Black, Zotac GTX 1080 AMP! Extreme 8GB, Corsair HX1000i, Phillips BDM4065UC 40" 4k monitor, VX2258 TouchScreen, TIR 5 w/ProClip, TM Warthog, VKB Gladiator Pro, Saitek X56, et. al., MFG Crosswind Pedals #1199, VolairSim Pit, Rift CV1 :thumbup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarSu Posted November 9, 2013 Author Share Posted November 9, 2013 Hi! Little update of my cockpit.... I put two power sources in to my cockpit right side. The other one is normal ATX power source and the other one is 24V. Ring transformer that supplies power to my "aces II" motors. Here is some pictures how it looks like, it´s pretty dusty right now but I think it´s gonna look pretty good after I clean it up.... HarSu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarSu Posted December 30, 2013 Author Share Posted December 30, 2013 Hi to all! It has been a while for at last update, but I have been busy to learn how to make double sided PCB´s. Here is my first attempt of UFC, but I think that there is not enough LED´s for a good backlight. (At least the bottom row need some more LEDs. I think) And here is TM extension, I have not tested it yet, but It should work. At first I tryed to take an PS/2 cable from old keyboard, but the pins didn´t match for the TM pins, so I did build my own cable. :joystick: And here is my biggest problem. This picture is from my left side console at fully backlit. There are no switches yet, but as you can see, light comes through the center of the panels, there is not enough paint. So everything is going to be done again, or I have to figure out the better way to backlight my panels. :cry: All advice are wellcome. HarSu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agrasyuk Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 just give several more coats to the acrylic before engraving. 3-4 thin ones should be enough Anton. My pit build thread . Simple and cheap UFC project Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duckling Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 Good work HarSu. Looks great - - - - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 Love it! Looks awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabre-TLA Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 Well done! MapleFlagMissions - Read Our Blog for Updates Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadman Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 Looks great !!! https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824 CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rajdary Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 really nice! Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Tempered Glass, Asus ROG Maximus IX Hero, Intel i7 7700K @ 4.8, Corsair HX 1000i, Nzxt Kraken 62, 32gb DDR4 3000Mhz Corsair Dominator Platinum, Nvme SSD Samsung 960 Evo 1Tb, Asus Strix OC 1080ti, Philips 43" 4K Monitor + 2 x Dell 24" U2414H, Warthog HOTAS, Track IR 5, Obutto R3volution, Buttkicker Gamer 2, MFG Crosswind pedals, Occulus Rift CV1, Windows 10 Pro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacFevre Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 Looks great! Love the UFC. You wouldn't happen to want to share the drawing or Eagle diagram or even the schematic for it, would you? I'd like to do something similar, even though I've completed the UFC I'd still like to create a more "pro" one. That way I could maybe do the same with the CDU. (If you'd like to sell it instead, I'd even be willing to do that.) Did you make the PCB yourself? Looks great! Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink: My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2 My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS." Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duckling Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 HarSu. Just a note if you plan to make a RevB on your UFC PCB (and avoid same mistake as me). Backlit of the "sub-lettering" text beneath the knobs themself would be great to have. Having the knobs on the UFC backlit is great but a bright monitor in front and backlit characters on the knobs makes the smaller text on the lightpanel very hard to see. Good for practising memory though ;-) - - - - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacFevre Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 Agree with the backlighting note! I haven't yet turned on the either lighting for the UFC, but without it I wind up having to look onscreen to see what button is what. :) Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink: My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2 My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS." Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarSu Posted January 2, 2014 Author Share Posted January 2, 2014 (edited) Hi. Thanks for the kind words. Gus and MacFevre. I think you are right about of the "sub-lettering" backlit thing. But if you bend the Leds on my PCB down, (instead up) it should backlit the "sub-letters"??? :detective_2:??? MacFevre, here is Eagle drawings to YOU, and all of you who thinks that they need for it. :thumbup: UFC.rar Hope it works! If not, let me know. Some Info about the PCB... - It uses 6*6 matrix for the buttons and it is designed to use for Leo Bodnar BU0836. - For the Green LEDs, there is 12V. input. - The "Master Caution" button Leds are to connected to Open Cockpits mastercard (SIOC). Well, REV A is A REV A. :cry: I´ll do better one.:P Cheers. HarSu. Edited January 5, 2014 by HarSu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadman Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 I would expect proper adjustment of the brightness of the back lighting would be crucial along with the correct design. Eliminating light leaks would be essential. http://www.moody.af.mil/shared/media/photodb/photos/101122-F-4408L-022.JPG https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824 CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacFevre Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 Thanks for the drawing. I appreciate it. It's perfect and exactly what I've been unsuccessfully trying to do myself. Thank you again! And DM, that pic of the FMT from Moody AFB, it's just perfect. Exactly how I envision yours will look. ;) It seems a lot smaller for some reason than mine? Oh well, it's probably just the angle. Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink: My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2 My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS." Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadman Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 Hopefully I will find one if not I think I have drawed one that is very close to the real one https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824 CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarSu Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Hi to all. Nothing big have not happened in my pit... I just put all my stuff (Throttle, Rudders and Control stick) on their places and check that everything works. Well, everything seems to work how they should, but the control stick is "bit" of flabby. That is self-evident, cause of the extension height. (35cm) After all its very accurate, but I can´t push it full forward, cause it hits in my HELIOS monitor screen. I'm gonna buy the laser engraver next week, and I was thinking something like that: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-SPEED-USB-CO2-LASER-ENGRAVING-CUTTING-MACHINE-ENGRAVER-ENGRAVING-m8/200690351192?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222006%26algo%3DSIC.FITP%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D22047%26meid%3D6155243166452935504%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D9537%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D400424417884 Is it worth of money???? And the another thing.... Is there somebody who uses freetrack and homemade "clip", and get it ACTUALLY to work? Mine freetrack is very tedious, I never get if focus it in my left or right it just gad´s for front or back. Never stay focused where I watch.:mad: So I think I may need TrackIR also. If it´s any better?:huh: One little picture::joystick: And @Deadman: Thanks for stickers, they are awesome!:thumbup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadroc Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 That's the machine I started with. Check my build thread for an evolution of using it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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