HarSu's A-10C cockpit build.

[lxsapper]

I supose you could mount it so that it started to lift the seat after it was extended somewhat. I'm sure the remainder displacement would be satisfactory.

[Hansolo]

Very nice HarSu,

 

Like your setup. Looks very sturdy :thumbup: I am trying to go the car-seat way but it proved a little more tricky than initially anticipated :lol:

 

Cheers

Hans

[HarSu]

Hi!

 

I know this might be wrong forum to ask this kind of question, but ... anyways.:music_whistling:

 

My problem is that, when I push my seat controller button to go down and release the button, my motors won´t stop running right away, but they keep rolling on "idle".

So it is pretty impossible to get the point where you want your seat to be.

 

So, I have 24V DC power source, and I´m going to use 1 DPDT On-Off-On switch to change polarity (UP and DOWN), and of course there is 2 limit switches.

 

Can any one tell me how to CUT motor overrun (Idle)?:helpsmilie:

 

I have read some Google stuff, that component called MOSFET can brake DC motor, but I didn´t find anything useful for my 24V. motors.

 

If someone knows anything things like 24V. Dc motor braking, let me know.

 

And YES, I know there is Arduino, But NOT yet, I have to learn something...:P

 

HarSu.

[Ryan Barnes]

I'm not sure of the particular components electrically you made need, but certainly lowering the gear ratio would help if you could do it.

[HarSu]

Hi.

 

I'm not sure of the particular components electrically you made need, but certainly lowering the gear ratio would help if you could do it.

 

Thanks for advice :thumbup:, but it's nearly impossible to modify the gear system of the motor unless you build whole new casing to it....

 

Anyway, I managed to get my electronics to work so that the motor stops right when I release the switch, so there is no more "idle".

Also I put one quite heavy spring in the mechanism that should help the motor to raise the seat. So far so good.:music_whistling:

 

NOW, my next concern is The height of the control stick?:helpsmilie:

 

I´m pretty sure that I saw those dimensions in Deadmans thread http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=57846

or somewhere else like week or less ago, but now I can´t find them anywhere.

 

It could be also possible that I have seen dreams.:P

 

Cheers.

 

HarSu.

[Deadman]

You might want to express interest in this project. http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1912421&postcount=520

[Dropship Pilot]

These pictures might help:

 

Cheers,

DSP

[cichlidfan]

These pictures might help:

 

Cheers,

DSP

 

Might be more info if you look through KLaFaille's threads as well.

[HarSu]

Hi!

 

Little update of my cockpit....

 

I put two power sources in to my cockpit right side.

The other one is normal ATX power source and the other one is 24V. Ring transformer that supplies power to my "aces II" motors.

 

Here is some pictures how it looks like, it´s pretty dusty right now but I think it´s gonna look pretty good after I clean it up....

 

 

 

 

 

 

HarSu.

[HarSu]

Hi to all!

 

It has been a while for at last update, but I have been busy to learn how to make double sided PCB´s.

 

Here is my first attempt of UFC, but I think that there is not enough LED´s for a good backlight. (At least the bottom row need some more LEDs. I think)

 

 

And here is TM extension, I have not tested it yet, but It should work. At first I tryed to take an PS/2 cable from old keyboard, but the pins didn´t match for the TM pins, so I did build my own cable. :joystick:

 

 

And here is my biggest problem.

This picture is from my left side console at fully backlit. There are no switches yet, but as you can see, light comes through the center of the panels, there is not enough paint.

So everything is going to be done again, or I have to figure out the better way to backlight my panels. :cry:

 

All advice are wellcome.

 

 

HarSu.

[agrasyuk]

just give several more coats to the acrylic before engraving. 3-4 thin ones should be enough

[Duckling]

Good work HarSu. Looks great

[Jimbo]

Love it! Looks awesome.

[Sabre-TLA]

Well done!

[Deadman]

Looks great !!!

[rajdary]

really nice!

[MacFevre]

Looks great! Love the UFC. You wouldn't happen to want to share the drawing or Eagle diagram or even the schematic for it, would you? I'd like to do something similar, even though I've completed the UFC I'd still like to create a more "pro" one. That way I could maybe do the same with the CDU. (If you'd like to sell it instead, I'd even be willing to do that.)

 

Did you make the PCB yourself? Looks great!

[Duckling]

HarSu. Just a note if you plan to make a RevB on your UFC PCB (and avoid same mistake as me). Backlit of the "sub-lettering" text beneath the knobs themself would be great to have. Having the knobs on the UFC backlit is great but a bright monitor in front and backlit characters on the knobs makes the smaller text on the lightpanel very hard to see. Good for practising memory though ;-)

[MacFevre]

Agree with the backlighting note! I haven't yet turned on the either lighting for the UFC, but without it I wind up having to look onscreen to see what button is what. :)

[HarSu]

Hi.

 

Thanks for the kind words.

 

Gus and MacFevre. I think you are right about of the "sub-lettering" backlit thing.

 

But if you bend the Leds on my PCB down, (instead up) it should backlit the "sub-letters"??? :detective_2:???

 

MacFevre, here is Eagle drawings to YOU, and all of you who thinks that they need for it. :thumbup:

 

UFC.rar

 

Hope it works! If not, let me know.

 

 

Some Info about the PCB...

 

- It uses 6*6 matrix for the buttons and it is designed to use for Leo Bodnar BU0836.

- For the Green LEDs, there is 12V. input.

- The "Master Caution" button Leds are to connected to Open Cockpits mastercard (SIOC).

 

Well, REV A is A REV A. :cry:

 

I´ll do better one.:P

 

Cheers.

 

HarSu.

Edited January 5, 2014 by HarSu

[Deadman]

I would expect proper adjustment of the brightness of the back lighting would be crucial along with the correct design. Eliminating light leaks would be essential.

 

http://www.moody.af.mil/shared/media/photodb/photos/101122-F-4408L-022.JPG

[MacFevre]

Thanks for the drawing. I appreciate it. It's perfect and exactly what I've been unsuccessfully trying to do myself. Thank you again!

And DM, that pic of the FMT from Moody AFB, it's just perfect. Exactly how I envision yours will look. ;) It seems a lot smaller for some reason than mine? Oh well, it's probably just the angle.

[Deadman]

Hopefully I will find one if not I think I have drawed one that is very close to the real one

[HarSu]

Hi to all.

 

Nothing big have not happened in my pit...

 

I just put all my stuff (Throttle, Rudders and Control stick) on their places and check that everything works.

 

Well, everything seems to work how they should, but the control stick is "bit" of flabby.

That is self-evident, cause of the extension height. (35cm)

After all its very accurate, but I can´t push it full forward, cause it hits in my HELIOS monitor screen.

 

I'm gonna buy the laser engraver next week, and I was thinking something like that:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-SPEED-USB-CO2-LASER-ENGRAVING-CUTTING-MACHINE-ENGRAVER-ENGRAVING-m8/200690351192?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222006%26algo%3DSIC.FITP%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D22047%26meid%3D6155243166452935504%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D9537%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D400424417884

 

Is it worth of money????

 

And the another thing....

 

Is there somebody who uses freetrack and homemade "clip", and get it ACTUALLY to work?

 

Mine freetrack is very tedious, I never get if focus it in my left or right it just gad´s for front or back. Never stay focused where I watch.:mad:

 

So I think I may need TrackIR also. If it´s any better?:huh:

 

One little picture::joystick:

 

 

And @Deadman: Thanks for stickers, they are awesome!:thumbup:

[Gadroc]

That's the machine I started with. Check my build thread for an evolution of using it.