Ninefingers

Wow, very nice ! Thanks for sharing ;)

Hi Gadget, try running DCS+Helios in window mode if you are not doing it already SL2

Glad to see you back in business and with your problems solved. Thanks for the explanation and best of luck with your new projects ! 9

Hi Biba would be a good idea to try this: Take a look in -> X:\Users\you\Saved Games\DCS\Config\View\SnapViews.lua SnapViews["A-10C"] Line 233 [13] = {--default view viewAngle = 80,--FOV hAngle = 0.000000, (horizontal offset) vAngle = 8.9 , (view heigh) x_trans = 0.17, (focus distance) y_trans = -0.06, (up or down view angle ) z_trans = 0.000000, (side angle) rollAngle = 0.000000, Forget the numbers I'm showing here and try to adjust your position slowly playing with these adjustments. Do a backup. Don´t need to exit to desktop each time, just do alt-tab. Use Notepad ++ to edit the lines. Probably doing this you can solve your problem. Of course PeterP proper Neck is a must have and the correct point to start. Cheers 9F

I suggest you take a look at this tutorial : http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=91659&highlight=thrustmaster+stick+extension

Thanks Headspace for your very nice piece of software ;)

Wow ! What a beauty ! Congrats Gremlin ! :thumbup:

Probably this PeterP mod + a custom default view is what you are searching for... you have all the infos in that thread Reworked Cockpit Views with proper Neck

I like a lot the embeded rotary encoders idea on the front panel Nice pit mate ;-)

Nice mod and impressive looking ! :thumbup: Good work P1Kw

I agree. Thanks Peter :thumbup:

I sincerely hope that the next official module will be the FA-18C. You are right sir.

Check also that you have downloaded the last version of the A-10 module, 1.2.1 compatible.

Hi San Seagal, your Mirage 3d model and textures are really beautiful but what about the possible 3rd party model project ? Any news ? Cheers y un saludete

+1 Another happy user here !! Thanks ED team

On 6192, DCSW is performing better than ever before on my med-specs rig. :thumbup:

I was 60 frames on multiplayer with 2 monitors + Helios on 1.2.0 Now I have 48 on 1 single monitor. This is my....45 install and I tweak my sistem a long time ago as Wags suggest. All my squadron mates are having the same problem, so... looks like anything is wrong with this version, and is not user related.

All my squad mates and I have near half of FPS than in the previous version 1.2.0. We have different sistems and cards and the issues are the same for everyone. 2 screens + Helios is a no go for me, and I was 60 FPS online on 1.2.0..... Another not happy user at the moment :(

Very good news !! Thx Headspace !

Thanks Hungarojet !

I like it, thanks Mustang and Peter !

same crash here

Thanks Mustang :thumbup:

This is another way to do a cheap and reliable extension for the HW or the Cougar. The total cost is around 5 €. What you need to do it, is a 40mm. PVC pipe straight fitting and a Karcher hose repair connector for 1/2 hoses. This is case sensitive, other brands I've tried hasn't the long neck under the thread that Karcher model already has. First, you must cut the outgoings of the nut to make it more or less cilindrical. Don't cut the reinforcement at the base. Then, with the point of a cutter knife, do a recess in the interior of one of the ends of the fitting to acommodate the reinforced base of the nut. Insist until the nut fits inside the pipe. Next, with a metal saw, cut the cone on top of the nut. This is to provide more room inside the extension, but not neccesary at all. Check that the nut fits completely and tight inside the fitting On the male, we need to remove everything except the screw threads using a saw and a drill. A Dremel machine with a milling tool will be useful. Be careful don't to damage the threads. Finish the work with a sanding block. The yellow male fits perfect inside the PVC fitting Cut a 3-4 threads ring from one of the yellow males. This is going to be a stop to limit the maximum screwing of the HW male inside the extension nut. Don't want the extension touches the base of the HW by limiting the travel. Now the easy part. Do a little sanding on the inner of the PVC pipe for a better bonding. Strongly screw the yellow male to your HW stick. Leave the original cardboard tag ring between the parts to assure a certain margin of error. Put some cianoacrilate glue inside the pipe, near the top, and vertically on a table, insert the joy with the male in the fitting to the top. Wait two or three minutes to dry making some pressure and be sure the whole thing is vertical. Then, carefully, unscrew the joystick. With some quick epoxy glue and a litlle wood stick, reinforce the union by the inside of the pipe. You can do a external reinforcement with epoxy if you want, but is not neccesary. Put some cianoacrilate on the recess inside the other side of the pipe and on the table, insert the black nut in the pipe pressing hard to the top. Now is time to screw the yellow ring cutted before, inside the black nut to be sure that the joystick on max deflection is not touching the base. When satisfied, glue the ring with a drop of ciano by the upper side of the thread. Ok, with this you have your extension finished. Do the electrical connection with a PS2 splitter as usual. This extension is 60mm. long. If you need something longer, you can use a 40 mm. external PVC pipe and two PVC fittings as you can see in this example. You can see the yellow ring inside the nut too. These two were a present for two scuadron mates ;) And this is my actual one, 80mm long (I've the joystick screwed on the base of my chair cushion). The two fittings have a little 40mm. pipe inside. Ok thats all, I hope that someone may make good use of this tutorial. Cheers

It is possible that all the users must download and install the new module although only the buyers can activate it..