Doughguy

@NineLine @Hobel Had this again after a while. Warm up with 1500 rpm until coolant reaches 50 deg. then to 1800 rpm until 70/80. Rollin. Climb with 3000 rpm. Cruise with 2500 rpm at 6k. Noticed some vapor clouds at my back but thought they were reflection. Then large vapour clouds from the front. Landed her with low engine settings around 1500 rpm with gills opened up all the way since the dive. I set her down, and left her idle at that for a while. Engine runnin smooth at 1500 rpm. Coolant 90 deg. Oil full blown at 130 since the vapour discharge. I left the gills open all the time and played around with the throttle. 2000 rpm metallic sounds could be heard. Throttled back to 1500 rpm, running all good. Back to 2000 rpm, metallic sounds back again. Pushing it to 2500 rpm then broke the engine. 06._24_JUNE_1944_N2_v5.4.2-20240603-195232.rar Any form of info would be highly appreciated on this... its going on for way to long..

Solved the shading problem thanks to some help. But itll be tackier and not as of a clean install. Just need some adjustments here and there

2700 rpm seems to be a magical number that likes to break warbird engines.. dora eg. now p47.. although ive heard voices that basically the p51 aswell sufferes from the same issue, hence my suspicion is that the coolin system is bugged overall

First, be aware that Physical Based Rendering has changed alot in the last years. Materials are defined by their Albedo (Color, in total shadowless lightning), Roughness, and if the surface is metallic or not. There are libraries that have gather info on such values, especially the albeo. Alluminium eg is nearly white, even if it appears light grey to your eyes, but that is because of the lightning your eyes percieve. Look up global illumination. So the albedo/diffuse defines color, which often doesnt have to be THAT detailed. Eg scratches, unless you have deep crevices filled with dirt, would be done in the roughness map. And then you say if these areas are metallic or not. Dents etc are done with the normal. The same goes for any other detailin. The steps are roughly the same. As for dirt etc, yes photos can be of great value to use as masks. Nothing beats real life reference. Gather it, hoard it. Just dont slap it on and call it a day. It really depends on what you want to achieve. Depending on what i have at hand (3d model or not), ill make sure i have a detailed normal map first. With my doras, i used a greyscale value image to go for panels, rivets screws etc first, which once done, will serve as a map for normals and a mask for various things. If this is done, i generate my normal map off of that greyscale. With various tools, such as Xnormal, i generate my normals or other things i find necessary. Next would be the albedo / diffuse. I start with a bare metal layer, and add another layer on top as a base "paint" layer". over that i blend the above mentioned greyscale map, so that i can see what part i paint. Id add a mask to the paint layer and "scratch" off paint in the mask. On top of the paint layer id add dust, dirt etc utlizing the greyscale as a mask to simulate dirt accumulation and such as desired. Once the diffuse is done, i create my roughness and metallic map off of the aforementioned albedo, and then combine these for the roughness map that is used ingame. The process is long and takes some trial and error. However, observation and hence reference are key. Take your time, be a magpie and observe where dirt is accumulatin, how does the paint look in certain conditions, is the roughness even all the time? (it is not), etc. and then you go from there. The key to a very good texture in the PBR space is the roughness map. That one will give you the most interesting and detailed appearance, even without a diffuse and normal. Wow...

Yes ill release it as is. Just waiting for some video stuff to be done

The details wont shade the same way as the rest of the model. It becomes pretty evident on metal surfaces. Oh well .... Im about pretty much done for now. I cant be botheres with all the pieces bein cut off from UVW isles. way to much to lign up.

Not done yet. Was just blocking out and done a proof of concept.

Guess id fly more on this server but the fact that dot labels are on are you virtually cannot sneak up on people makes flyin certain planes basically useless. Pity.

Ok, so my inner monk was restless. Got the damage stuff working. Its still suboptimal but works.

huey flashlight mod still works for me, just need to reedit the luas.

The moment subscription comes, im off.

Id have to see to fix that alpha channel thats not working. which is odd.

Ok.. well i sat down for the last 3 hrs and tried my swing on damage textures.. Turns out, it uses copied shapes of the model and then blends damage textures over it. So far so good... but UVW´s are also messed up again... which creates ugly seams. Sorry folks but im not inclined to spent weeks aligning that. An ive alread looked close at the old damage textures... *tableflip*

Im with moto... you dont buy a ferari and then have it downgraded to a hondo civic or trabant...

Happend again for no reason, can provide track if necessary. @NineLine

Please observe how much the nose wobbles.

Irc each texture sheet was 4k

Sorry for the delay, but after some reconciderations ive decided to also include some new damage textures and fix the gearwell textures. Its details and shouldnt take long, so hold your breath!

Just had to jinx it

oh well.. i had them on the keyboard before. yea its tedious, but again, you dont really need to manipulate them

I never operate them on the ground. They open themselves if you reach a temp of about 80 / 90 degrees. If your engine seized you can close them anyway, they might be closed by now anyway for mechanical reasons or stuck. The cowlflaps are a bit weird and poorly explained but thats about how they work. I dont really touch them only i combat i tend to give the engine a quick cool down between fights. i just open them a bit and then revert back There is some speed penalty with opened cowls tho.

There is no auto mode. Theyre always in auto mode. You only set the thermostat to have them open to a certain temperature really. You can observe this, by crusing at normal temps/rpm and then manipulating the knob. The gills will close/open briefly but then go back to the position at which they give the minimum temperature that is ideal to cool the engine, if that makes sense? So eg if the thermostat is set to cool up to 120, your temps are 100, and you crank them open, they will open but revert to old position as its the "ideal" for a certain threshold. You of course can over ride this but crankin them more open or closed, but again, theyre always on auto really. The minimum will close them totally and let them there, which will fry your engine in seconds. I use my virpil throttles ring decoder to set the temps and just count the inputs back and forth really.

i should i should. The dora should get a total overhaul. lets see. i need to take a small break from her but then i wanna come back at full force but with new cockpit textures.

Eh?

its definately related to Also always w/o mw50. The overheat happens after the engine failure, just as with yours.