Warhog

Talking about weird... I just had an idea. I'm going to use an old CPAP machine and mask to simulate my oxygen feed and have it turn on when the oxy switch is activated in the A10C.:thumbup:

Welcome back Calum. I too had toyed with using a fresnel lens as well. I kind of gave up on it because of the parallax issue you noted. Still looking for another solution. I am hoping someone will produce a square 3 inch tft or oled display. Looking forward to see more of you and your cockpit as time becomes available. BTW, If you ever want to look at some of my Arduino sketches, I now have them available through a link in my signature below as well as some more recent photos of my own progress. Might actually have it finished this year. Also check out Hansolo's signature. He too linked his sketches. Hope to talk with you in the near future.

I know almost nothing about the SDA software so forgive my possibly ill informed question. I wanted to know if this software would allow me the ability to generate a working HSI and an ADI display for the A10C that I could export on to separate 5.5inch 1024 x768 hdmi monitor. One display panel for each. I was also thinking that the wet compass display and the standby ADI could also be exported on to separate 1.5” oled's or small tft displays. Is this the software to use for this endeavor?

If I might suggest, every time you purchase or intend to use a particular component, be it a 7219, a LM317, a mosfet or whatever, do a google search for the data sheet and build a library of your accumulated data sheets. There’s a data sheet on virtually every electronic component which gives you lots of info ranging from specs to schematics to pinouts. You'll find that you are frequently referring back to your library as you get new ideas on how your building that next panel.:)

Funny how that always seem to happen :music_whistling: Also, when you need three, buy five. ...its always good to have spares. :thumbup:

The proper way to display code on the forum is to place it between characters that show up when you check the # in the menu above. That way you don't have to include a .txt file. This is what you will get by doing it the correct way and it makes it easy to copy the code and paste it into another app... IDE. /*This should work on any Arduino that has an ATMega328 controller (Uno, Pro Mini, many others). */ #define DCSBIOS_IRQ_SERIAL #include "DcsBios.h" #include "SwitecX25.h" #include <LedDisplay.h> #include <font5x7.h> //*****************STEPPER MOTORS SETUP AND CONTROL-MAIN FUEL GAUGE************************************ int TotalSteps = 475; //There are 945 steps on these motors. We are only using half of the available steps which equals 475 steps. SwitecX25 motor2(315*3, 5,4,3,2); SwitecX25 motor1(315*3, 6,7,8,9); void onFuelQtyLChange(unsigned int newValue) { //the value we get from "onFuelQtyLChange" is placed in the variable "newValue" for us to use. motor1.setPosition(map(newValue, 0, 65535, 0, TotalSteps)); //Here is where we are remapping the 475 steps to the total steps that are being exported. } DcsBios::IntegerBuffer fuelQtyLBuffer(0x10ca, 0xffff, 0, onFuelQtyLChange); void onFuelQtyRChange(unsigned int newValue) { //the value we get from "onFuelQtyRChange" is placed in the variable "newValue" for us to use. motor2.setPosition(map(newValue, 0, 65535, 0, TotalSteps)); //Here is where we are remapping the 475 steps to the total steps that are being exported. } DcsBios::IntegerBuffer fuelQtyRBuffer(0x10cc, 0xffff, 0, onFuelQtyRChange); //*********************************[b]HCMS Display[/b]********************************************************** LedDisplay fuelDisplay = LedDisplay(10,11,A0,A1,12,8); //(DIN, RS, CLK, CE, RST, displayLength) /*"[b]fuelDisplay[/b]" is now the name of the display I just created with the above statement as well as the pins it will use on the Arduino board*/ void onFuelQty10000Change(unsigned int newValue) { fuelDisplay.setCursor(2); fuelDisplay.print(newValue/6553); } DcsBios::IntegerBuffer fuelQty10000Buffer(0x10ce, 0xffff, 0, onFuelQty10000Change); void onFuelQty1000Change(unsigned int newValue) { fuelDisplay.setCursor(3); fuelDisplay.print(newValue/6553); } DcsBios::IntegerBuffer fuelQty1000Buffer(0x10d0, 0xffff, 0, onFuelQty1000Change); void onFuelQty100Change(unsigned int newValue) { fuelDisplay.setCursor(4); fuelDisplay.print(newValue/6553); } DcsBios::IntegerBuffer fuelQty100Buffer(0x10d2, 0xffff, 0, onFuelQty100Change); void setup() { DcsBios::setup(); motor1.zero(); // this is a slow, blocking operation motor2.zero(); fuelDisplay.begin(); fuelDisplay.setBrightness(15);//0 to 15 is the renage of brightness settings fuelDisplay.print("88888888"); delay(2000); fuelDisplay.clear(); //Clears the HCMS Display fuelDisplay.setCursor(5); fuelDisplay.print("00"); } void loop() { DcsBios::loop(); motor1.update(); motor2.update(); }

Here are a few of my favorites. I purchased all of my toggle switches from mobilev below. https://www.ebay.com/str/mobileveletronicsshop?LH_BIN=1 Arduino boards from: https://www.ebay.com/str/txhangelectronic Displays for MFCDs and CDU: https://www.ebay.com/str/chinatobby2011 Basic components, resistors, caps, diodes etc from https://www.ebay.com/str/satisfyelectronics

I have never had that problem. I have always been able to find data sheets when I thought a data sheet was needed. As to cad files, I have drawn over 400 AutoCAD files ranging from gauge faces, panels and knobs to PCBS for smd components working to an accuracy of .0005”. When it comes to electronic components, these Chinese, Japanese, Thai and South Korean vendors don't screw around. They can't afford to as eBay will drop them if they get complaints. Besides, where do you think the American, British, Canadian vendors get most of their parts from... Asia. :smilewink: Arduino Mega in North America... $35.00. Chinese clone... $11.00. Functionality... same Lighted toggle switch .... $7-8.00 in North America. From China $2.40. Both products are from same manufacturer. You can see more Chinese parts on my Flickr page. Link is in my signature. But each to his own. If one can afford parts from Digikey and Mouser (and their shipping costs) and can't wait a few weeks for deliveries from across the world, then I say... go for it. I just want to make sure new cockpit builders know there are alternatives to the over priced parts available from your local suppliers.:pilotfly:

eBay... Chinese parts are very inexpensive. You will be amazed at the savings and the quality is definitely acceptable. With the hundreds of components I have purchased, only once did I get a batch of bad MAX 487 chips. When reported, the store sent me a new batch which worked just fine. Just do some searching on eBay... loads of whatever you'll need.:thumbup:

You need to post the entire sketch in order to see where the problem is.

Always use resistors with LEDs regardless of what you might read on the Internet. There are lots of web pages to calculate resistor values for series LEDs. The Max7219 is a good way to handle the caution panel and I recommend you go that route. Download the data sheet for it. Hansolo has a caution panel sketch on his google drive (see his signature) but not sure if he used a 7219.

Query about old post Could you look at post 1441. I was wondering if the cross channel talk issue they were having while transmitting had been resolved.

Why don't you take a step back and start fresh once you read the entire users guide. It’s found here: http://dcs-bios.a10c.de/ Follow the installation instructions to the letter. That should help you get things working. And if I might suggest, don't deviate from the examples found in the users guide or add your own extras that are not in the users guide until you have tried them all and that they work for you. It should take some of the frustrations away.:thumbup:

This guy has written an Arduino Library for these motors and has several useful pages of info that you will want to go through. https://guy.carpenter.id.au/gaugette/2013/01/18/analog-gauge-stepper-breakout-board-available-on-tindie/

You could use them for the two hydraulic indicators on top of the fuel gauge. The flaps indicator as you have already suggested. Maybe even the cabin pressure gauge as it tends to move slowly. Everything else moves too fast for those little motors I'm afraid.

Are you running release version or open beta?

Yes that’s the basic concept except we use the RS-487 chip. It allows up to 128 devices on the bus and termination resistors are not necessary. You won't be able to buy ready made break out boards as you can for the 485 chip however the wiring is very simple. If you are intending to use DCS BIOS, there are template sketches for master and slave in the examples in the Arduino IDE once you install the DCS BIOS library. As to PSU, find an old pc and salvage the PSU from it. Wallwarts may not be sufficient with respect to current draw depending on how you build your cockpit. I use a common 5V power rail that all my Arduino boards are connected too. I also have a 12v power rail for specialty components such as led strips.

I agree with th op and I would propose we add a separate section for DCS BIOS. I would also like to see this section devoted exclusively to Hard Core cockpit building. Not somebody who mounts a stick and throttle on his desk and then posts... this is my cockpit, what do you think. The input/output section should be for those posts and the Home Cockpit section should be for those building an actual cockpit. I'm not being a snob by suggesting this but this section needs to cater to those who are hard core builders. It should facilitate the exchange of info related to electronics, programming, avionics, CNC and the mechanical challenges involved with building/replicating an actual cockpit.. I really like the idea of having separate sections for “how to”, progress updates and areas to discuss build problems and DCS BIOS questions/assistance.

If your confident your wiring is good then you probably had a bad batch of 487's. I ordered 25 RS-487 from China and they were mostly crap. They ran super hot and then stopped entirely. I reordered from another supplier and they were all good. Don't let that get you discouraged. I run several Mega’s as slaves and lots of Pro Minis without issue. So I know it works. Btw, the Rx flashing on the master is normal. Very little flashing on tx is also normal.

I have some PCB designs for 8 pin DIP's that might be of some help. Send me your email address and I’ll send you what I have. Btw, your RWR, what is the overall width and height of your front plate. I wasn’t hopefull of finding a display that would fit within the available space. To bad no one makes a square 3” display.

WOW... and I thought my pit was a rats nest of wires:lol: But the end result is excellent, to say the least. As to your wanting to go with RS-485, You should not be purchasing the RS-485 chip, but instead, buy the RS-487. That was what Ian intended we use for our networks.

I started with the x52 pro. Buying the TM Warthog throttle and stick had a monumental inpact in my flying. The x52 was always sloppy. The TM Warthog was not. You will be thoroughly impressed. Also, you will need rudder Pedals. The Pedals will definitely add to your flying ability. I use to have the Saitec combat Pedals until I purchased a high end ($800.00) set of Pedals. Only issue I had with the Warthog stick was stiction which developed after maybe 2 years. That was easily fixed with some good lube. Several threads discuss best lube to use. I have hundreds of hours of flying time so my equipment gets a lot of use. After 4 years of heavy duty flying I finally replaced the sticks base with the T-50 Mongoose base by Virpil. That base took my flying to a new level of precision and I highly recommend it as an add on when money permits. It’s a real game changer but not an absolute must unlike the TM Warthog upgrade. I highly doubt you will be disappointed with the TM Warthog stick and throttle. And don’t forget the new Pedals you’ll need.

This web page might help you with your problem. https://mazda626.net/topic/39309-making-custom-gauge-faces/ Beautiful gauge faces without CNC.

This thread, as the subjects line states, is only for DCS BIOS ANNOUNCEMENTS. Do not post questions here. Start a separate thread if you need help.

If you decide to go with DCS BIOS, you should read the users guide located... http://dcs-bios.a10c.de/. Ian, the author of DCS BIOS, has a few videos located in the first couple of pages in this thread... https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=141096