BitMaster

I upgrade when the new system is at least twice as powerful for the same budget ( 300-500€ CPU range ) usually coupled with new DDR versions and all that stuff that doesnt fit anymore. I used to upgrade every 8-12 months in the past( 1990's till say around 2010 when i7 came ) , then 2010 and later it got to about two years and since I have this 8700k I dont feel the need to upgrade as it still serves me very well. Considering the cost of a new platform I will wait until 12+ cores are cheap, DDR5 has matured and PCIe v5 is present. Unless I am forced I will not upgrade till late '22 or '23. If I had the money to spend, hell yes, gimme 16+ cores, 128GB DDR5-8000 , multiple NVMe Gen5 and a 3090³...but truth is, I am a poor mouse.

The RAM is not what you want for gaming on a Ryzen, as stated before. Low latency paired with adequate MHz, like CL14-3200 or CL16-3600 are 2 good choices. Buy them at a place where you can return them if they dont run as intended.

It says this under the video: Barnacules Nerdgasm Barnacules Nerdgasm 904.000 Abonnenten MITGLIED WERDEN ABONNIEREN UPDATE: Don't use SpyBot Anti-Beacon since it's now payware because of the publicily it received and ShutUp10 is a way better and free option

Ahhh, it originated from somewhere else, not the RAM......ahhhhh Glad you have found it !

When you install the full thing it can easily go wrong, with all the sub-apps attached and installed it can easily become a nightmare, been there. As long as you can somehow control your fans and oc in Bios you can actually "not-install" it pretty well and get along. Usually, with a new board and new install I sacrifice the first install to try it all out and once I know my about I reinstall fresh, kinda like that. What drove me nuts most of the time is Asus Aura .... oh man.

Those GPU's do not have enough VRAM, as said above. You should wait for the higher VRAM Nvidia cards or pick an AMD card.

Windows95 ? My first self made PC ran DOS and had a 486DX-66 Calm down, it's never safe regardless how much you try.

Oh well, we seem to have different approaches to trust, expense and expectations. Don't think Total AV, Avira, Norton, any AV, is not interested in making the most money out of your fear. At least, in this regard, MS offers something for free, totally integrated, not trying to sell you more modules and generating Popups trying to sell. Dealing with fear does pay, ask any insurance guy after 2 beers...

Thinder, thing is, you won't know what will hit you next and which AV will be the right choice to protect you. You only know AFTER it has happened. My job is to protect networks and the best way to do that is block everything folllowed by a white list which contains a finite listing of sites which are allowed and for email, the best approach is multiple layers of mail scanners from different vendors, I like 3+ layers tbh. One at the MX-Hoster, one in the UTM Firewall and another one on the mail server followed by a 4th one on the client's machine. Avira and Kaspersky are the ones I choose for professional circumstances and they haven't let me or a client down in 2 decades. I have seen/ been informed about infections on partner sites of my customers and I have to say, some had bad luck, some where too easy with Threat Management and some others didnt really care until it hit them hard and locked their data, big companies btw. When you have a muliple 10k revenue each day one should not hesitate to throw 25k$ at that problem cause it will cost you more if you take the hit. This is still not 100% safe but it is max what you can do with a REASONABLE amount of money and effort, coupled with multiple backups ( Ransomware-safe to the maximum extend one can forsee ). For a private person....well, most lack the knowlwedge, then the money it takes to deploy UTM Firewalls, also accepting the downsides of such a setup, very very user unfriendly for a private person's belonging, constant monitoring and adjusting, reading logs and what not else. Making decisions in any safety regard will take months and not minutes ( going through that right now with a major US company, OMG...how complicated it can be, you wouldnt believe ). It is WAY above a private persons head to do all this. Be aware of what you do ( biggest hurdle ! ), have M U L T I P L E BACKUPs on systems that are OFFLINE ( ext. HDD, disconnected Cloud Services ) to fight ransomware attacks, deploy a decent scanner and refrain from sites you kbnow you shouldnt be at. If you need to visit such sites, do it in a "throw away" VMware, Vbox, Hyper-V...anyone will allow you to do that. Here again, the knowlwedge how to do things if you need to is the biggest gap from what's needed and what can you do/understand. Be aware, no scanner can usually catch zero day attacks, that's when you need one of those many backups and time. BTW, MS Defender has been tested by many many sites and I cant recall any of them saying it is a bad scanner in the recent years. Actually, in my understanding, it is quite good and serves great. Either one works but it remains a gamble to some extend. A gap you can never close. If you have been infected and hacked multiple times in the recent years, rethink your strategy. Something was wrong. One more thing. Many sales people in the security business are black painters. The try to make money with your fear. It is hard to distinguish between bloated fear and real threat. They try to sell you everything and make you feel safe. The underline is on "feel". It is not neccessarily real what you feel. A very complicated matter indeed.

If its the board it's likely only 1 pair of Ports or the USB form that chip, usually you have USB ports from more than 1 chip available. Unlikely that all are broken. Have you tried other Ports, front rear, different color ( USB 2.0 / 3.0 /3.1 etc.. ) ? Is the device working on another PC/Hardware

Can you send the CPU back ? Obviously money is not a hard factor for you ( 128GB make me assume that ). You better follow Sn8ke_iis' advice with a better CPU. It just screams for a better one. Just curious, what do you need those 128GB for ? Reason: They may cause trouble as they are very dense and you have 4 of those. If you don't really need them, 64GB is painful enough. The more modules, the denser ( more Gbit per IC ) and the faster they are the harder it is for the board and IMC of your CPU to master that task.

When you did the fresh WIn10 install, did you install Intel Chipset drivers as well ? That could be a thing if not done right. Other than that, does that device need a driver ? If yes, have you installed that one ?

Yes indeed !

To exclude Windows being the root cause for those BSOD's and failed booting attempts, obtain a bootable Linux on a USB or even CD/DVD ( slower than USB ) and see if that OS will fire up and behave normally. If it does, it is likely a UEFI-Security/non-CSM thing prohibiting your Windows to boot properly. If Linux does work normally, use it to save your data from your drives ( documents, pics, videos, etc etc ) to a Fat32 formatted drive ( exFAT will not work in Linux ! ) or send it via LAN to another NTFS drive on a proper Windows machine. THEN, reinstall your Windows with your Bios being reset first and make sure your Bios is set to UEFI ( secure boot ) and not to CSM before you install. The reason for UEFI and not CSM is that once Nvidia will allow SAM ( as AMD has done with their GPUs ) you will likely also need to have Windows in UEFI mode, CSM would not allow you to use that feature. Before you install Windows, my advice is to use Linux on USB thoroughly to test your new RAM config. There are certain things you can do to test your RAM with Linux, Google has a nice set of tools that you can use. I recommend Ubuntu or Mint ( derivat of Ubuntu ). here is a link telling you how Google's stress test app works: https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?73665-Our-preferred-memory-stress-test edit: If you are new to Linux and don't want to ruin things by mistake, DISCONNECT your drives from 12V before booting Linux. Then test the rig thoroughly and once you feel safe to handle it, shut it down, connect the drives again, boot back to USB-Linux, rescue your data if needed and then reinstall your Win10 with UEFI.

Win10 Defender and multiple Backups in various cloud services and HDD

Start all over and remove the 8GB sticks. Insert ONE of the new kits ONLY in the outlined slots ( 2 and 4 ) and see if that will boot at 2133MHz or 2666MHz. If they do not boot at those speeds then you are out of luck. If they boot, use them for a day or two and see if they BSOD at standard speeds and Volts. Then do the same with the 2nd new kit, remove the 1st one and plug second kit in, proceed as above, do not use XMP yet. If both kits work on their own, try each kit again separatly, apply XMP and see if that works. You can up the Volts to 1.40v if needed, I would try with 1.375v first and see if that helps them to fire up. If you manage to get that kit working, do some test bench runs and see if it is stable. If yes, take that kit out and test kit #2 the same way. If they do work as well, then insert all 4 of them, up the Volts if needed (often needed with 4 modules ) and see if they boot. You may change the slots ( kit#1 = slot 2+4 & kit#2 = slot 1+3 ) between the kits but DO NOT mix the kits themselves. Do not apply XMP right away when you boot the 2 kits, stay at 2133/2666 and 1.20v + a little more, say 1.25v if needed. If they boot and keep stable, try XMP and up the volts again if needed to post in Bios. If all fails, return the 2 kits and buy a new kit of 4 modules, best if listed in the QVL.

+1. Could make a difference with 16GB if you hit the ceiling and need to swap hundreds of MB If you buy new, I would still consider NVMe over Sata SSD, unless you aim for 2 or 4TB where the price difference still hurts somewhat.

Back to the OT, does it pay t split OS and main APPS like DCS, Steam folders and likes. From my point, a slave fixing machines for others, customers and family & friends, yes, it does make sense if the shit hits the fan and you need to reinstall the OS for whatever reason. It is not a mandatory thing but splitting it up can make that much easier if you have to troubleshoot a system. Disconnect the APP drive, only leave the OS active, and you won't by mistake or any other glitch wipe DCS, Steam...or your personal files. I highly recommend not to share the OS drive with important Apps and Files. The other, speed related, question has lost most of it's importance. Back in the days of HDD's, maybe even pre S-ATA drives, it did REALLY impact performance if you kept it all on a single drive, you gained so much performance by splitting it up. Well, with SSD and NVMe this need has almost vanished but if you want the last 1% as said before or if you multitask while flying DCS ( Stream, have 20 tabs open in Chrome, anything that needs constant data I/O and the OS managing it it MAY pay to have them separate. Here is where SSD and NVMe are miles apart. I use a lot of VMware and believe me it does matter A LOT if you use SSDs or NVMe in the world of Multi-OS's running on one system and hammering your I/O...agreed, this is not a common scenario but when the I/O is hammered and the pipeline usually longer than QD1 it does matter if you have 100k or 750k IOPS and if you have 560MB/sec or 3500MB/sec or even more with Gen4. Looking at the prices of NVMe now, I don't see why you should buy into Sata-SSD if you can afford NVMe. You can start with 1 NVMe and if you think or know it will work better some time down the road with 2 of them, ADD one. The only big downside I have with NVMe is: It is THAT much harder and more time consuming to attach them to another system to rescue data etc.. You either need the correct external NVMe case or put it in your rig the proper way. With a Sata-SSD that is a lot simpler and faster. I personally run DCS from 3 Sata-SSD Samsung 2x850 Pro & 1x860 Pro 256GB in an insane Raid-0. The performance scaled 100% with each drive added and I think I may add #4 soon as I need more space. I also plan to buy a 2TB Samsung NVMe this year and move DCS and VMware machines to that drive instead of the RAID-0 as it is THAT much better in VMware with 3-5 virtual machines running. DCS is just fine on my Raid-0 but I do not own syria map, maybe that map shows the limits of current Sata, might well be. I like fast throughput, always took the better systems like SCSI and SAS in the past to obtain that edge over ATA but with Sata-SSD and NVMe it got so much cheaper to be at the very top of performance. CPU, GPU and RAM got so fast, you gotta feed that pipeline or much of that power is lost when your Data Path becomes a bottleneck again, which doesn't need to be with NVMe, especially Gen4.

Not actually correct, it is NOT the amount of modules that matters here but the amount of Ranks. 2 sticks can be as fast as 4 sticks IF the 2 stick setup ( say 2 x 16GB ) consists of DUAL RANK modules, which most older 16GB sticks are. In the past year new IC's have emerged that have double the capacity which means you can get a SINGLE RANK 16GB stick if you don't watch out what you buy. The good thing is, with those new IC's you can now get a 32GB Dual Rank stick and achieve a total of 128GB if needed. So one could get a 2 stick 2 x 32GB DR kit and also keep the door open to add another 2 sticks later on. That said, think twice before you plan to add RAM later on. It has never been easy to add modules to already existing modules. Not even the same brand and model will be a guaranty that it will work. You would need the same production week or day to have a high chance of succeeding. In addition, the amount of available DDR4 sticks to choose from will dramatically go down over the next 18 months ( likely your upgrade window, time wise ) as DDR5 is on the merge and production will mainly shift to those and high end sticks of the DDR4 era will likely be stopped in production. They will provide the JDEC specific versions, 2133 and 2666, for years to come but I would not bet on getting a matching pair of 3200MHz Brand-XYZ with 18-blablabla specs, that is likely not the case from what we have seen over the last decade with DDR, DDR2, DDR3, DDR4 and now DDR5. Tbh, I would not pick a 750w PSU and stick with a 850w to stay on the safer side, it can become borderline if you need to run the system at full-tilt throttle. The GPU will be around 300-350w under load ( also in DCS )and can under certain conditions reach up to 500+watts, the CPU can take A LOT more than what the TDP tells you. If you run ANY of the stability tests it will tax CPU and GPU to 100% and may cause the PSU to get near it's safe limits. With 100w more on your side you should be safe even when running a stability tests for hours and hours. Seasonic Prime Platinum or Titanium would be my pick. With the setup you have you will likely consume 300w GPU + 50w CPU + 50w board and drives = 400w. Add another 10% safety margin and you are pretty much at 50% load of a 850w PSU. 50% load is where a PSU runs most efficient and the coolest. With Platinum grade you will only produce 7-8% heat ( 92-93% eff. ). Say 8% of 425w is roughly 40w heat generated by your PSU. With a Gold PSU it will not be that much more but I would not consider Gold as good enough for such a rig. The quality of a PSU is hard to see from the outside. Take warranty period as a measure. Don't buy below 7 years ( Gold ) and try to get 10-12years if possible ( Platinum and Titanium ). The parts used to build the better ones cost more, last longer and foremost put LESS STRESS on the components. BTW, a 3600 CL16 is about as low latency as a 3200CL14. The difference comes to light when you move larger amounts of data, then the higher numbers ( 3200 vs 3600 ) wins the race. The CL value could be seen as a drag race, quarter mile or Traffic light sprints, the MHz value stands for the long run, NY to LA...as an analogy. You need both being good to win the overall race. 3600 CL16 is the sweet spot.

I dont have GF Exp installed as well and also suffer this problem on a 24/7/365 PC, which in fact costs me considerable money at the end of the year It used to get fixed by deinstalling GF Exp and unplug any controllers. It's a MS-Nvidia issue they know about for years! That is the bad part, they know it and dont fix it. Never had any sleeping issue with my own Mac or any Mac I have sold & serviced. Apple can do it, cmon MS and Nvidia !

Rare but can happen is that your board did not fully clear the registers when you cleared CMOS/BIOS. I have had boards in that needed Battery, RAM, CPU!! and all the rest taken off and then fire it up, short the pins and put a Quarter or 50€cent coin in the battery tray for 10 minutes. On one of my own boards coupke years back it ~somehow~ got back to life... strange things happen sometimes. Might wanna give that a try, blank board clearing cmos. Happy New Year 2021 & Stay Safe

Nvidia Card + GF Experience and any kind of game controller connected are well known to cause Power Settings to go nuts. Deinstall GF Experience and see if that alone helps, if not, you will have to unplug the controllers and see if that helps. I have the same issue and it sometimes works as planned...and sometimes it just won't go to sleep, regardless if controllers are attached or not. I have no GF Experience installed anymore and over the last year the problem got more serious, it's a hit & miss with this BS OS called Win10. Try to google your problem, you will see, there are many people having the same issue.

Disconnect all Sata drives and try if it boots to the point where it says "No operating system found" and stops. If it does that, one of your drives went bad, connect 1 by 1 then to find which one. It is no bad idea to take all peripherals out of the testing, use as little hardware as possible to see if the error goes away if stripped down to the bare minimum.

https://www.howtogeek.com/howto/16226/complete-guide-to-symbolic-links-symlinks-on-windows-or-linux/

I'd move DCS to the Samsung drive and be done. Apropos Adata... read that article linked in that thread, you might get shocked