Sokol1_br

Take small drill bit (1 - 1.5 mm) and make a hole in middle of part inside cap (HAT) and in part that remain in grip. Put a suitable length of steel wire in the hole, fix with CA. Same in the cap (HAT). I fix the same HAT in F22PRO TQS in that way. For broken gimbal parts, and better alternative: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=195464

Guy selling an SCG Kosmosima Premium grip - in US.

This, from OP: "I have upgraded the throttle with the mmjoy board". ;)

Is a ON-OFF-(MON) toggle switch (under the fancy cap).

Luckily you are not trying replicate DH Mosquito trigger: :) As curiosity, P-51 Mustang dual trigger mechanism - suggest a CAM in the movable pin.

Cut a rubber disk like a washer and put inside the collar nut.

Rel4y, About your ADC question: https://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/57900-freejoy-opensource-joystick-controller-on-stm32/?do=findComment&comment=898408

May this guy can help:

You don't need a expensive military hardware for this, joystick trigger work in the same way. The two stage is just two tactile micro switches in tandem, each with their own springs. See inside Warthog: https://theairtacticalassaultgroup.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6397&d=1388223745 Or in VKB F-14 "tomcat" grip: In the removed PCB is the two tactile micro-switches.

For Joystick Gremlin support go in Reddit/HOTAS since many people there use this keymapper and his developer used to post there. But in VirPil section there are users of josytick Gremlin too.

I have not used Joystick Gremlin, but with other keymapper, e.g. JoyToKey, SVMapper... is need start this softwares "As administrator", for games or other softwares see the keypress.

If is only this JoyToKey do this and is easy/simple to use. For more advanced scripts Joystick Gremlin+vJoy.

Looks easy to solve. Your Midori Hall (HS2 kit) have a brass sleeve with "D" recess, this sleeve is need for fit in place of original potentiometer in Cougar gimbal, that have more diameter. Early Uber are just a reinforcement for Cougar horrible gimbal, see the brass sleeve in right Hall: See HS2 hall installation here in CougarPilot page backup in Web.archive: http://web.archive.org/web/20140405163232/http://www.cubpilotshangar.net/page38.html Unfortunately Webarchive backup for install instructions of Hall HS3 kit (for UberNXT gimbal) loose the pictures. But what you have to do is remove this brass sleeve - cut the brass lengthwise with Dremel tool, because is fit under pressure and maybe glued. Se the picture there: http://mcchii.com/PC_Related/FlightSim/FlightControls/Cougar_HOTAS/cougar_U2_gimbals.htm And there: http://mcchii.com/PC_Related/FlightSim/FlightControls/Cougar_HOTAS/cougar_U2%20Development.htm The Midori Hall pole fit in UberNXT gimbal, that have the hole with same diameter of Midori Hall pole. Anyway measure before made any modification. Midori QP-2H dimensions, pole is 3.8mm OD. https://www.midoriamerica.com/cotnactlesssingleturn/qp-2h/ You will need make (3D printer?) a new support for Hall, like this: BTW - In Wingsofhonour have a article about installation of HS3 Hall kit in UberNXT, but pictures are small, anyway you can seed that Hall pole don't have sleeve. https://www.wingsofhonour.com/hardware/thrustmasterhotascougar/review_modding-u2nxt-hs2-hs1_20090718/html_woh_hardware_review_cougar-u2nxt-hs_20090718.en.html Pictures of Hall (HS3 kit) installed in UberNXT gimbal. https://hanskrohn.com/cougar-flight-stick/

If your gimbal is UberNXT version (the last produced), check pictures there: https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2697859&postcount=36 The Hall sensor used is Midori OP-2HC, don't know if still in production. https://www.midoriamerica.com/pdf/QP-2HC.pdf Time ago cost around $100 each, why the mentioned Rel4y and GVL224 alternatives are more interesting, and modern. ;) BTW - Have in mind that VirPil VPC WarBRD base - with modern CAM gimbal and GMR sensors, is compatible with Cougar grip and cost less than two Midori Hall, is €169.95/$185.00 https://virpil-controls.eu/vpc-warbrd-base.html

EDIT > DELETE > check the box "Delete Message".

Looks like that is more the case to took this parts for a (competent) machine shop and milling the hole in gimbal or Hall sensor pole, what probable require dismantle then, became little viable. An alternative, use GLV224 MagREZ (KMZ41 magnetoresistance*) contactless sensor (around ~10 each), fitting a diametrically magnetized Neodymium magnet in gimbal. Or Rel4y contacless sensor (too KMz41 magnetoresistance) kit: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916 * KMZ41 is too used in VKB MaRS contactless sensor. Magnetoresistance contactless sensor is from automotive industry, more advanced than Hall sensor, but in practice you will don't notice difference. But before all, take measure and pictures of gimbal hole for fit the sensor.

I don't know, but author post (in English) in this forum: https://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/57900-freejoy-opensource-joystick-controller-on-stm32/?do=reportComment&comment=890862 New firmware with new functions was released.

That part is correct. You need do a "hard reset" - unplug and pug in USB port, after change VID/PID for Windows Games Controller recognize the the controller. BTW- Each VID/PID can be used once if you don't do a cleanup of previous enter in Windows register. In fact what happens is that is Windows that don't see the controller when you set a already used VID/PID, but games and test programs see.

Nice job, "plug and play". :thumbup: Manager is now "abandonware", no longer supported, see CH advise there. But try set with VID/PID and NAME like originals. Or forget and use Joystick Gremlin.

You use GVL224 mechanics? Base case looks from Defender Cobra joystick.

In theory you can: https://forum.virpil.com/index.php?/topic/1017-use-vpc-mongoost-50cm-throttle-with-thrustmaster-target-software/&do=findComment&comment=7392 But the players attempts has mixed results: https://forum.virpil.com/index.php?/search/&q=target%20vid/pid Use JoystickGremlin instead TARGET.

What exactly has broken? If you are not able to bet an replacement, may can fix. When the radio HAT of Tm F22FLCS TQS broken - in the pole in what the HAT capt are fit,, I fix it by drill a hole with a ~1mm drill and insert thin steel wire and CA glue the parts, resulting more strong than new.

dali You missed OP premise, he live in India where is not practical order goods from other countries - high local custom fees and 50% chance of the goods being "lost" by the postal service. I live in Brazil and know what is this, here local custom taxes is ~101.5% and I already had cases of goods "lost" in the customs or by the postal service. So he chose to buy VKB in the USA, to be delivered to a local address and a relative will take the pedal to India. About the "best pedal on the market", Slaw Viper RX, VPC ACE2 and even TPR users may not agree with you, the guys tend to justify to themselves that the toy they buy is "the best".. ;)

An new stick will not you exclude the need of calibrate. May require firmware flash too. :D In theory at least, are a technical problem with this. In an old topic in SimHQ (~10 years ago)Bob Church, formerly CH drivers/software developer (now retired) explain. CTS potentiometer used in CH's have 15+15º "effective electric angle" - their resistive trail read only in this 30º area. See this area in the second image from left to right: But - no sure if both or just Y axis, CH gimbal move more than this, perhaps 32º. Then the Manager calibration process amplify pot readings for match this physical movement. Windows software, that remount Win95 days, no. This may create a deadzone in end of axis course. Anyway can test if are this mismatching with an accurate test software like VKB.JoyTester. And "if it ain't broke don't fix it". ;)

Contacless sensor for replace potentiometer, see Rel4y topics in Thrustmaster sub-forum there. Debolestis 3D printed gimbal for Cougar is the more affordable option available for improve their weak original gimbal, with lot of play.