Sokol1_br

Probable no, these Gameport to USB adapter are not made for "advance controllers like TQS", but basic josyticks, they are limited to 4 axis and around 6/8 buttons. They are solution for simple devices like TCS or Elite rudder pedals. But this is video adapter, not gameport adapter.

probable a 3 or 5 turn "multi-turn" potentiometer. 10 turn will be much slow. http://www.potentiometers.com/select_multi.cfm Or ad gears to your actual potentiometers.

You need the switch or push button wired to a USB controller - creating a HID USB "joystick controller" that work in any game who support joystick; that can be: -Comercial available board like Leo Bodnar BU0836A/X, BBI64 or DSD 12 or 64... - Or DIY using an cheap Arduino clone board. E.g. Arduino PRO Micro or Micro, Teensy 2.0, ++2.0... flashed with MMJoy2 firmware - can control up to 120 buttons (switches, push buttons) ST32 flashed with FreeJoy firmware, too up to 120 buttons. - Or Arduino + DCSBios, in this case you are creating a controller exclusive for DCS. See this video as example of DIY creation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7Sc4MJ8RPMhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7Sc4MJ8RPM

CAM gimbal for CH's.

That's curious, since (Cougar) TQS "radar cursor" is just an analog mini-stick, like the one in VirPil CM2 throttle and Warthog DeltaSim upgrade for Warthog throttle.

I guess GA controls for incoming FS 2020

New firmware:

KG-12B grip sell standalone or included in Gunfighter WWII has metal trigger. This grip is no true replica, but inspired in real KG-12 grips, (IMO) their major lack is the diamond pattern texture on grip.

VirPil grips with twist rudder analog axis (T50CM2 analog brake lever axis only): WarBRD - analog twist axes (lockable). THX grip - optional analog twist axes (lockable) and digital brake lever axis. Constellation grip - analog twist axis and 2 analog axes in mini-stick. Alpha grip - analog twist axis (lockable), analog brake lever axis and 2 analog axes in mini-stick HAT.

No, I am saying that due the gimbal mechanics play are not reason for 14 bits resolution, because the option for have 14 bits is use TLE5010/11 sensor what require a precise gimbal, without this the the sensors sensitivity (able to detect 0.00xº movements) will detect that play and maybe disturbing axis response. But you can use the original pot's in 12 bits controller (BU0836, MMjoy2, FreeJoy), since this don't require changes in gimbal. What is more simple to wire, just the 3 wires for connect potentiometer. TLE5010/11 require 6 (serial protocol). Potentiometer is not resolution limiter, their limitations is useful lifetime.

Yes, with MMjoy2 and FreeJoy firmwares you can use TLE5010/11 contactless sensor whose ADC has 14 bits of resolution. https://aliexpress.ru/item/32634095245.html But IMO for CH gimbal but there's much reason and benefit for do this, this gimbal has much of play (mechanical deadzone) since has just bronze bushing in axes pivots. Is possible install bearings in gimbal pivots but maybe require re-drill the holes, what require specific tools for keep holes aligned.

Rick50 Check Rel4y topic in this CH sub-forum, he already have solution for upgrade CH's - main controller and contacless sensor, but due pandemic are impossibility to send for outside of Germany. For upgrade yourself (DIY), first you need know how make solder and have tools for the job. For those old gameport controllers you need an USB controller. Can be for example an comercial solution like Leo Bodnar BU0836A - $ 35. Or you flash a cheap (~$5) Arduino PRO Micro clone with MMjoy2 firmware (10 bits) or an STM32F103C8T6 with FreeJoy firmware (12 bits). Both have topics there. See this gameport for USB conversion example - using Arduino+MMJoy2: https://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4329494/ch-flightstick-pro-ch-pro-pedal-usberization#Post4329494 Is not difficult, just require some time and patience.

Contact GVL224 in this forum (see their sales topic), he are able to make a custom trim box for you, according your needs. Example:

Looks nice. :thumbup: Hope that this time they "take-off" .

Yes, encoder movement press sequentially one button in each direction.

You are using an old MMjoy2 firmware from 2015, why the mini-stick as hat became crazy, POV HAT positions don't expect analog signal, but buttons (digital) signal. Last versions for firmware in Mega_MOZGG site, some people prefer use the v20151118 instead the last. https://sites.google.com/site/mmjoyproject/fajly-dla-skacivania

You can replace the twist axis potentiometer - require make solder on wires. https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CTS-Electronic-Components/251B12T104A2NB/?qs=6E8igxPflKdliaNMymwp6A%3D%3D

Up to ~$60 is Thrustmaster T.16000M Up to $100 is VKB Gladiator Mk.II - may find available in X-plane.org store. Both use contacless sensor in main axes (X, Y), Gladiator use in twist rudder too. The other low cost options use pontentiometer in this axes - that wear ou with use and cause spikes in axis response; and should be avoided, e.g. Logitech 3D PRO, Thrustmaster HOTAS X and some generic brands. For your main use - helicopter flight, VKB Gladiator is more indicated, since their center springs is light and gimbal has damper grease, smoothing cross center transition.

CH PRO Pedal. As said their (plastic) construction is rock solid - units from end of 1990's still in use (modernized for USB). Other plus, their potentiometer is easy to replace, just require a Philips screw driver and pliers, and better, is available in Digikey ~$5. Or can be replaced with contacless sensor, see Rel4y topic "CH upgrades". In CH PRO the pedal pads slides over steel rollers, on Tm pedals is plastic over steel pole and Logitech plastic rail over plastic, both subject to stiction. Comparative to TFRP and PRO Rudder, CH PRO Pedal use an obsolete 8 bits (256 resolution points) USB controller, but again Rel4y has upgrade option. Thrustmaster and Logitech don't furnish spare parts for their pedals, iif are out or warranty, just suggest you buy an new.

At some time ago you can install VKB SCG grip in Gladiator Mk.II, that although are not a "F16" lookalike stick have buttons, HATs for emulate F-16 needs. Parts and what to do in this video - show installing a left hand grip, but right hand is the same. Problem is the availability of the adapter.

Try decreasing/increasing distanced of sensor for magnet and/or increasing filter value.

What is strange is that in MMjoySetup the USB name are "MMJOY" in your picture: https://i.ibb.co/RcK3HfY/Untitled.png So Windows don't should see as 'MMJ-reset" anymore. BTW - In MMjoySetup you can't use Arduino pins codes, but the equivalent set in firmware: https://i.ibb.co/RcK3HfY/Untitled.png So in MCPU Port instead "A3" select "F4".

The status still "MJ-reset" (blank), hit the button "Save settings to device" and after LED blink do a "hard" reset, unplug and plug USB cable.

BTW - https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=273451

Post a screenshot of MMjoySetup axes configuration.