Sokol1_br

If you can buy and return, try X-56, if not better don't risk. Reddit/HOTAS have many complains about issues.

Bodnar board work with any contacless sensor that work in analog mode, just don't support in digital mode, e.g. TLE5010, VKB, VPC, Kommaroff.

MMjoy2 has a "shift" function, don't know how work in practice, but probable not what you want. Anyway a software solution for this is JoyToKey, in Options > Configure Button Alias.

VirPil software Axis to Button, configuration is saved in controller memory, so don't need soft running in game background.

This model was discontinued by CTS in ~2015.

3D printed https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2669273 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3994696 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2830791

Practical 3D printed detents (idle, AB) for VirPil CM2 throttle: https://forums.mudspike.com/t/throttle-finger-lifts/9954 WiP:

REPPOT615 - short pole axis, is for quadrant throttle levers. REPPOT604 - longer pole axis, probable replacement for joysticks, rudder pedal and CH PRO throttle. EDIT - This guy bough three 604 for rudder pedal: https://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/42111-ch-pro-pedals-replacement-potentiometers/ REPPOT632 - short pole axis, ??? Anyway CTS HP100A is announced in Radwell, and said discontinued by manufacturer, probable these in Digikey are suitable replacement. https://www.radwell.com/en-US/Search/?q=hp100a To add, confusion, Radwell have the same model with two prices. :)

Sprint Layout is the most easy PCB software I have tried, is just point, click and drag. Ways more easy than Eagle an similars.

Curious they claim this, I have used T.16000M and Saitek Cyborg button for press "wheel brakes" in T-Link, with T-Rudder Mk.II. Neither T-Link manual say this. http://ftp.vkb-sim.pro/Documentations/T_Link_En.pdf Yes, in some DCS warbirds is not good idea press right or left wheel brake in takeoff run. :))

Some highlights of latest Release v1.5.1b3. Support for external ADC, for AS5600 (programmable working angle) and MLX90333 (SPI mode) contactless sensor

Never see a F-16 grip drawings ready for 3D print, but in Reddit/Hotas are scanned external files of real F-16 grip that you can use for drawn your own grip. A very crude drawings of Warthog grip - no internals, are available in Sketchup Warehouse may serves as start base for drawing.

https://i.redd.it/pbchot0xqdt41.jpg https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4287043

If your mouse has programable software, look if can press F# keys. For MFD buttons - if they are DX buttons, JoyToKey is an easy way for press F# keys. For change in game F# assignment for other keys or buttons is need edit LUA - per module. https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=233743&highlight=Function+KEYS&page=2

This Saitek X-65F four position "slider" is a mode selector. "On the right edge of the throttle assembly there is a 4-way mode selector switch" If in Saitek software are no way for change for DX buttons, is not possible direct use in games controls.

Since the major "pro" of CH's are they Manager software, that now is lottery: If you replace CH USB controller with a cheap Arduino PRO Micro, besides improve axes resolution 4 times (or 8 times external MPC3204/8 ADC) can easily add a physical second stage in trigger and don't need script juggling. https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=250644 https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=4106986&postcount=35

The tactile micro switches under VKB Gladiator Mk.II plastic caps is good quality, some are OMRON, but are a flaw in the design of the rubber/silicone pad between buttons cap and switches (for mute their click), this piece is articulate only in one side, so the buttons cap - specially A1, A2, A3 moves tilted and became stuck/jam pressed. In my Gladiator Mk.II I fix this putting small pieces of silicone tube (RC fuel lines) cut in lengthwise in one side (forming a closed "C") for clamp in the PCB board that have the switches, this align the caps and they don't stuck/jam anymore.

130 € - metal construction, contacless sensor with "toe brakes" (heels on floor), a budget option for EU. https://pedaly-happy-mzm.webnode.cz/

Don't see any, but I think the ideal is 3D print something like GVL224 mechanics.

Good job on CAM gimbal. :thumbup: Single throttle grip in Github: https://github.com/o-devices/throttle-quadrant

For diode matrix? Can, the drawback is their big size.

You don't need do big disassemble, open the base and using a contact leaner spray with tiny tube spray inside potentiometer case, by the hole near tabs for wires. But is easy remove pot from CH gimbal, no tools is required.

If you want use T-Rudder "differential brakes" emulation you need use T-Link software. T-Rudder default profile have some unnecessary axis, you can hidden then. In DevCFG > PROFILE > AXES un-tick the boxes En and Vs for unused axes En = Enabled Vs = Visible You need one axis for Rudder, and two for T-Link virtual "differential brakes", look in Test fo active axes.

FoldingAtHome need your GPU https://github.com/FoldingAtHome/coronavirus

VirPil base CAM mechanics is far superior than Warthog (and Cougar) base, check opinion of people who did this upgrade in this forum. You can buy Warthog base only - is called "HOTAS Magnetic Base", announced for $159.99 and use your Cougar grip there. What make the $185 for VirPil base much more interesting. Availability of "Tm HOTAS Magnetic Base" now is may a problem, due Corona Virus. Getting Tm HOTAS Magnetic Base or VirPil base you have an additional problem, need a USB controller for Cougar TQS, because this controller is "brainless", slave of cougar base electronics. Real Simulator has the TUSBA adapter in two options. Other is use an Arduino - DIY work. BTW - Al alternative that will cost a bit less is Debolestis UberNXT gimbal clone for Cougar, and so avoid changes in TQS. https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=195464 Is more "bullet proof" than original Cougar and Warthog gimbals, and a better mechanism, with bearings in pivots. Parts cost around ~$100 plus conctactless sensors (check with rel4y), but require assembly.