Sokol1_br

The +5v x Gnd swap means that axes will work work inverted. For rudder axis is not issue, just use the invert axis function in games for correct, but for brakes pedals maybe result always pressed for Windows/Games. Since for solve the issue is need make solders, the easy practical way is swap this wires in the pot pins, if don't carry about "keep original".

An example of motorcycle damper installation in T-Rudder (original in Russian, use Google Translator), seems without need of extra parts, modifications - the front bar was replaced, but for fit the pedal in a tubular "cockpit". Damper used: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256801750892991.html?sku_id=12000018160196309&spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.125433edNtmRU8&gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt

Any idea where this topic is? I found nothing so far. Just in case, fixed on top of Input Devices (this forum section)

What is "JF-Flyers joystick"? Anyway, I suggest you ask in Reddit/r/HOTASdiy, there people use write code for non conventional joysticks. BTW ATMEGA328 don't seems a good option for joystick controller, since need include USB support via software.

For replace OMRON B3F-100 micro-switches is more "bullet proof".

See if this tutorial help:

In the software - that configure the firmware; disable the logical button, so the press is no more registered as DX button.

Depends on where (corner of the world) you live can order PCB from OSPark, Debelestis upload there layout for 8, 16, 24, 32* button CD4021 Shift Register boards. *Can chain boards for more buttons, e.g. four for 128. https://oshpark.com/profiles/Debolestis Or download the file for DIY, order the PCB from another PCB service. An detail to observe, you need a USB controller with support for CD4021 Shift Register, e.g. Freejoy and MMjoy2 firmwares for STM32f103 and Arduino PRO Micro, Micro Teensy 2.0, ++2.0 cards.

An more simple way for have this "twist brake lever", without having to create a new virtual axis. Just need change one parameter of the original configuration for twist axis (#3 Rot X) for the axis became a full axis (0 - 100%) with just twist for left. Change the tick from 1 to 2. 1 un-ticked remove the center position of the axes. 2 ticked invert the physical data. If not ticked the axis varies 0 - 100% with twist for right movement of the grip, what is less ergonomic, comfortable.

PCB layout for these Shift Register (CD4021B) boards for 8, 16, 24, 32 buttons are in OSPark/Debolestis. You can ordem from there, or download de the file and send for your preferred service. https://oshpark.com/profiles/Debolestis/page/2

Metric dimensions: https://arstechnica.com/gaming/2018/09/thrustmaster-tpr-is-the-king-of-mass-market-flight-sim-pedals/

This guy create a 3D Printed "clutch" system for T-Rudder. https://youtu.be/IGou-WhwEHI

Just Flight Mosquito FB.VI for FSX/P3D have an simple autopilot that just hold altitude and heading.

In VKB T-Rudder this difference is noticeable - if you pay attention. Seems this is due the one lever CAM design, the force for one side is bigger. If VirPil TORK use similar CAM could have the same effect. BTW - MFG Crosswind use one lever CAM, but never see users complaining about this force difference. Notice that in this pedal the CAM have way more length that in T-Rudder. I think that in joystick gimbal with one lever CAM this is less or not noticeable due the smaller leverage and forces.

Try this, create the two virtual axis with Joystick Gremlin, assign this virtual axes for "toe brakes" right an left plus a button or key as modifier.* If you stick have a pinky button use this (if not think about add one). Use this combination for taxi maneuvers. Assign the same two virtual axes for "wheel brakes" command, twice but using a different button or key as modifier, since axes names is different, need just one button or key for both. So pressing this other modifier button or key and pushing rudder bar on right or left* stop the plane in straight line. * If find more simple set just on side, e.g. right press for "wheel brakes". Will take some discipline for get used and don't mix the modifiers, or the result will be funny, specially on landings. ======================================================================================= I think this is more practical, after some practice. * DCS have the alternative of "Switches" in Controls - that is permanent modifier, instead the momentary "Modifier" (like a Alt, Shift...). The "Switches" work like a mode selector, so you can set a "mode" for brakes for taxi. - Set a key, e.g. Scroll Lock** in "Switches", and assign the two virtual brakes axes plus Scroll Lock for "toe brakes" right and left. Pressing Scroll Lock once you can just move rudder bar for right or left for brake the respective wheel, because the modifier for the axes - the "switches" Scroll Lock; is always on. - Set a button (preferable on joystick) as modifier for "wheel brakes" plus the virtual axes right, left (or just one). So if want stop the plane straight press this button and push the rudder for right or left = both wheels braked. At end of taxi, press Scroll Lock again, the "switches" is turned off and pedal now control the yaw, but can use "wheel brakes" at any moment for stop the plane straight, pressing the assigned joystick button. ** Scroll Lock is convenient for use as "Switches" due their LED, for for monitor if "Switches" of "toe brakes" mode is ON or OFF, but know that the LED may end inverted if don't check their status before hit FLY. In this way you avoid the confusion of use two different modifiers for the two brake modes, "toe brakes" or "wheel brakes". You will need turn the "Switches" on again after landing and stop the plane, for do the taxi maneuvers. Hope that may idea don't end more confused than it looks.

This "Switches" (in controls) have nothing to do with ON-OFF, ON-OFF-ON switches, they are just for set a permanent "modifier" or a mode selector. That would be the most unusual toggle switch on a controller I'd ever seen. There are On-On toggle switches, but why would anyone use them on a controller? Use because Windows and games (with few exceptions) don't recognize the OFF state of toggle switches, move the switches from ON to OFF do nothing. ON press a DX button, OFF don't press. So a ON-ON switch is more practical, avoiding the need of use and external mapping software, e.g. RS mapper, Joystick Gremlin, or edit LUA files for add command (a key press)in OFF state of an ON-OFF toggle switch. But... games in general defeat their use, because they use single key press for commands, e.g. press L turn cockpit lights ON, press L again for turn OFF, not the case of DCS (with exceptions for some commands in some planes). Yes, but other than make the light in Widows Games Controllers lit of go off, the "OFF" position of toggle switch don't send commands for the game. Think about this detail. So, for avoid this second layer programming your options are: - Edit LUA files adding function for OFF state of switch - what is solution only for DCS (other games don't have this option) and need be done for each plane, ending more laborious than use a 3rd part mapping, eg. RS Mapper, Joystick Grenlim, and every DCS update erase this edit, need have backup for restore. - Use an hardware solution, that is the ON-ON switch or (MON)-ON, (MON)-(MON), what require a USB controller compatible, both positions will press a DX button. Or, with controllers like MMjoy2, FreeJoy the OFF position can be programmed in the firmware for press a DX button, like Tanukki44 say. VirPil throttle OF-OFF switches can have the firmware programmed in that way, press a DX button in both positions.

Ideally, a one axis rudder pedal should be used together with a stick with brake lever, or at least twist axis, that can be set for "wheel brakes" command.

You can use Joystick Gremlin "split axis" function for make the pedal axis create two new virtual axes (0 - 50% and 51-100%). And assign this two virtual axes + a modifier button or key for right and left brakes commands. Drawback: you can't use this axes for stop the plane, because can't press both virtual axes simultaneous, like in real "toe brakes". Can use just for make turns on ground taxi. BTW - VKB T-Rudder have their own software solution for this, the T-Link that solve the issue in this way: A button (or key) pressed increase two virtual axes 0-100% equally (progressively), so both wheels is braked equally. Moving rudder bar for right or left brake only the respective wheel is braked, the rudder axis movement works only as wheel selector. Drawback of this solution: The braking is always 100%, although the increase is not instantly, but progressively.

TUSBA adapter is for Cougar TQS throttle, F22PRO TQS (throttle) and stick use different electronics. The only way for make F22PRO+TQS usable in actual computers is DIY:

Happens that the point where springs are anchored - left side of picture is short, and when removing the bottom cover the springs may jump messing the internal arrangement. Anyway with this YT video tutorial you will don't have issues for put all back. For fill you objective, is need remove the springs and this two brackets that link the springs to the moving bar, they are in two parts, bolted. May some felt disks under the moving bar create the necessary friction.

It's easy remove the springs,* but without a kind of friction or damper you have hard time for pedals remain last position. * Although this means remove more screws, if start be remove pedals pads, and then remove the upper part of the case, the steel rollers of the pedal sliding mechanism will not fall apart.

CH UBGS 100B - made for refueling training simulator

And Mig-15, 17, 21, L-39, all British, Italian, Russian WW2 era planes (except i-16).

The detail is that this pedal has very short movement, It's said 19mm for F-16, working more as pressure transducer.