Sokol1_br

The description say "Hall sensor", probable a "3D" sensor like in T.16000M, Warthog gimbal. BTW - The teaser of "Sigma Tau HOTAS" is just render, but grip ergonomics seems horrible.

From Reddit: For Airliners:

With ~$270 your "best" buy is: VKB NXT Standard - $120.00 or Premium - $150.00 (one HAT more, plus analog mini-stick and extra trigger). Plus a standalone throttle, options: Thrustmaster TWCS ~$ 130.00 or CH PRO Throttle ~$122.00 Similar functionality than Logitech G X52 or X56, without the know flaws and QC issues of these.

Is not difficult, is just a different way, in what you brake both, or only right or left wheel, moving the rudder bar, like a real Spitfire (or MiG-21).

Comparing to ordinary USB controllers (e.g. Bu0836) VKB is a kind o "Apple"... probable this "EXTERNAL DEVICES" is for other kind (not released yet like GNX-SEM) of VKB controllers only. I suggest you ask this question there: http://forum.vkb-sim.pro/viewforum.php?f=25&sid=f9199223edf2e80b4e6290605039f732 EDIT - May this give an idea of difficulties: http://forum.vkb-sim.pro/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=4939

Most racing and/or console oriented, but list a joystick and yoke for PC

http://ftp.vkb-sim.pro/Documentations/T-RudderMKIV_QuickGuide.pdf This part seems new, perhaps a cable holder...

Just in case, DView or DXTweak provide a better calibration than Windows, allow set dedzones if needed. Bot available there.

Problem with CH is that you need buy joy, throttle and rudder pedals, their stick and throttle don't have rudder control - can improvise with throttle mini-stick, ending costing more than $300. VKB NXT ($120-150) has twist grip rudder control - with contactless sensor and can be paired with Thrustmaster TWCS throttle (has rocker for rudder control), CH PRO throttle or an other throttle that work standalone. NXT + TWCS cost ~ $250 - 280 and similar with CH PRO Throttle. In mater of stick no other surpass VKB NXT in price, features, quality up to $200 range. Keeping the budget in $200 the only options are Thrustmaster FCS or Airbus HOTAS ($170 - 190) or Saitek X52 (~$150) - brand not very recommendable due QC issues, see the complains in the Saitek dedicated forum here, or Reddit/HOTAS.

Missing pictures in the topic (postimage change from .org to .cc):

Latest "rumors" (Reddit/Hotas) say two version in arc, one with physical detents, other with electronic detents, and a 'premium' rail (sliding) version, with electronics detents. It seems that "electronic detents" don't work as expected in early tests.

Wires gauge is not relevant, use the more thin you find. Sample. A good wire is silicone insulated used in telephony, but I don't know the technical name. Will be good if add some buttons in T.16000M grip, more four is easy to place, wired in parallel with the buttons in base - now without practical use. Another reason for use the more thin wire you find, since is need pass all in the realtivele small hole ot T.16000M gimbal pole. Sample: Other: Video adding buttons: Similar project, with extension.

Calibration in CH Manager*, or DView, DXTweak2 is better that in the "obsolete" (an Win95 leftover) Windows Game controllers calibration, anyway this software is good for a fast test of axes and buttons. * Manager compensates do diferences between potentiometer "effective electric angle" ~30º and gimbal angle movement, slight more. Manager keymapper function (macros, scripts) is optional, some Win10 users issues with this module.

More or less 40 х 23 х 8 cm (15.7 x 9.05 x 3.14 in.)

VKB T-Rudder is very compact, precise and ergonomic to use. Other small option is Thrustmaster TFRP ~65$ less but with inferior construction quality and electronics. SRP is 99€.

Curious, how you surpass Windows Dinput 8 and MMjoy2 firmware 8 axes limitation per controller? Per above you have 5 + 2 + 1 (12 bits) + 2 (10 bits ) = 10 axes An suggestion, reduce board width, for make more room for use, e.g. an 3D Printed CAM gimbal like Object 77B v2. https://thangs.com/IronArthur/Object-77B-v2-14932

Just in case, these Bodnar rotary switch are not encoder, but the PCB under can be for make they work like an encoder,* so have you tried set then as encoder? Example of rotary multi-position switch wired to be used as encoder, using the "Table of Truth" binary code: http://www.737ng.co.uk/switch_as_encoder.pdf http://www.737ng.co.uk/simple encoder.pdf http://www.737ng.co.uk/technical.htm In this topic an example of use a Fender 4 positions switch for flaps control, through the "Table of Truth" code. https://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/29873-mjoy16-usb-circuit-board/page/2/#elControls_555531_menu * Why use these and not conventional encoder? Because they have a better tactile feedback when changing positions. This wiring give 1, 2, 3, 4 if turned right and 4, 3, 2, 1 if turned left. If you want just a 1,2 ... 12 positions switch, bought one without that resistor PCB, and wire each position in one BU0836* button input. So have 1,2 ... 12 and 12, 11 ... 1 buttons pressed.

http://cougar.flyfoxy.com/circuits.php

Posted in il2strumovik.ru, don't know if seller send worldwide. Laser cut metal parts kit for Cougar upgrade, pole with threads machined. Sales topic (in Russian) https://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/topic/14662-кит-набор-для-сборки-механику-рус-cougar/

Just click with mouse. But the (obsolete) Windows Game Controllers calibration tool should not be used (e.g. VKB and VirPil don't recommend use it), instead use DVIEW, DXTweak2/64. An potmter, sensor have a "effective electric angle", if they are 360º and you controler can turn only 180º will loose axis resolution, because the voltage variation will be not the - e.g. 0 to 5v expected by USB controller ADC, but 0 ~ 2.5v. That's why potmeter made for joystick (gamepd, R/C controls) industry have custom "effective electric" angle, e.g. 32º. This models are rarely available in Digikey, Mouser, etc. Bi-Tech 6120 series Hall sensor have models with 30, 60, 90 180, 360º of "effective electric angle", these wolk in analog model and can be used with common USB controllers, e.g. the popular L.Bodnar Bu0836A/X, Arduinos... AMS AS5600 sensor can be programmed for any "effective electric angle" without expensive tools - as is need for Melexis MLX90333:

Try with other name in "USB name" that not MMjoy2 - used previous. E.g. Panel1, Panel2... Think that bug in (v20161101) is something related with buttons above # 32, some are not reported.

Work, I have done this several times, but is need clear in Windows Register the previous, try do this manually with Regedit.

For each board you can use individual VID/PID combination using numbers from 0000 to 9999 and for name any with up to 10 characters*, e.g. Panel1, Panel2... * Back in time during MMjoy2 development are talk about increase this limit, don't know if was was done.

Additional, before change change VID/PID and name is need remove the previous e.g. 8888/8888 from Windows Register, or Windows Games Controller will not recognize the new ID, although games recognize, is just a Windows thing. Try with the button "Clear sets" in MMJoySetup software or use Windows Register tool.

A simple way is using JoyToKey, up to 2 buttons per axis (bellow 50%, above 50%). A more elaborated is Joystick Gremlin, can divide the axis in bands for press more buttons.