Sokol1_br

Center detent is intende for space games, SC, ED... wheres throttle >50% move spaceship front, and <50% move spaceship back.

No practical diference in send an new grip buttons and HAT through MSSFB2 circuit or L.Bodnar board - if the grip has up to 8 buttons + POV HAT, MSFFB2 circuit limit. But even in this case will be more easy attach the wires in Bodnar board, than in MSFFB2 circuit buttons connections - half is in the base, and the ones in the grip need the PCB under HAT as "diode matrix", that need be keep for new grip, or made a PCB replacement = more work. This is explained in this video.

Probable just render, but seems a good compromise for plane and heli, removable grips.

https://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/17504-digital-magnetic-sensor-for-control-devices-_by-komaroff/?tab=comments#comment-275428

Relative to your original question "best cheap rudder pedal" you have this options, bellow $200 - when find in normal stores (e.g. Mypilotstore) and not in scalpers hand. Thrustmaster TFRP - Cessna 177 like, too narrow. No reason for buy unless find for low price <$100. CH PRO Pedal - a bit more width, but still narrow. Vintage design, obsolete 1999 electronics (8 bits USB controller - 256 axis positions USB controllers).* Logitech (ex-Saitek) G PRO Flight Rudder Pedals. Saitek "quality" inherited, no spare/replacement parts, so disposable out of warranty period. Of the three CH is the most recommended, better sliding mechanics than the others, durable, easy serviceable - e.g. replace potmter (available in Digikey for ~$5). * And if want is easy and cheap upgrade their USB controller for 10 bits (1024 axis positions) with ~$5 Arduino. Or buy ready to use upgrade from Rel4y (topic there).

The HAT's on top of grip are soldered in an PCB and this is not available as spare parts. The side thumb HAT are modular and available in Mouser, Digikey, under APEM brand, for ~$35. An HAT can be "overhauling" replacing the four tactile micro switches inside, of course require DIY skill and tools.

Now more compact, maybe suitable for Suncon F-15, CH case (not tested yet). Working angle - 30 ° (+/- 15 °). Two types of bearings used: MR104 (4x10x4mm) - 12 pcs. (cams and pushers); 6700 (10x15x4mm) - 4 pcs. (axes). Hardware: Self-tapping screw black 3.5x20mm - 4pcs; Countersunk screw M4x20mm - 4 pcs; Countersunk screw М4х35mm - 2 pcs; Countersunk screw М4х45mm - 2 pcs; Nut М4 - 6 pcs; Washer М4 enlarged - 6 pcs; Washer М4 conical - 6 pcs. There are 4 types of grip attachment in the archive. VKB Gladiator and Cobra M5 with twist preservation (handle 17mm higher) and without twist (adjustable height); Thrustmaster HOTAS Cougar and Warthog (nut); VKB SCG, Kosmosima. Tested in VKB Gladiator, Cobra M5 and Thrustmaster Cougar joystick. Download links: STL files for printing: https://cloud.mail.ru/public/C59q/CGfGUPLpt KOMPAS-3D v19 files: https://cloud.mail.ru/public/vVMW/BCiELCNeb Installation template: https://cloud.mail.ru/public/mU33/CWQdsw3Kj Installation instructions (in Russian): https://cloud.mail.ru/public/vRvi/PSoEnH68B Karavan topic in il2stumovik.ru

You can bet that the damper in MFG kit came from Aliexpress.

The fact that Thrustmaster Warthog stick grip (released in ~2010), was never an A-10C stick replica, but an F-16 stick replica, so the "new" F-16 grip is the same old with new label. Happens that for an desktop game controller the F-16 grip has more functionality with the "pinky" lever, so Thrustmaster opt for keep this, as people are used in the Cougar, but unless by the lack o "pinky" lever in real A-10C grip - have a lever, but in the grip tube, both real grips are visually the same grip. A-10C grip

Proposed (?) variations of this throttle.

https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/throttle-v10-assembled-and-blown-out-86e776c0488b47a9b53c16c1c66cc299

Check in Discord https://authentikit.org/no-printer/

Nice job. The "Take off ratted" plate have functional (boost) detent inside?

Look at how are made GVL224 mechanics with bearings and make your version, or buy just the lever mechanics from then, price is reasonable, see their sales topic, ask by PM the lever mechanics price.

An Antonov airline use similar kinematics in their pedals, the movement is an arch down <> up, not back<>forth like most of pedals. This kinematics result very comfortable and less tiresome for use sited in conventional office chair.

Try what the guy say in the fourth answer there - for VirPil controller, but for MMjoy2/FreeJoy is the same thing.

Post your throttle serial to this "hall of fame" list: r

An "add-hoc" solution, with available materials: - USB cable is secure. - Have space for put fixing screws for the assembly. Can use a small breadboard piece.

Some will complain that don't have detent's.

Have past twice. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9jTQ6WqJQv2AVmGP0Wf4aQ

GVL224 custom throttle - customizable at some degree per buyer wish , don't look like that "badass jet" throttle "replica", but good functionality, with two options of detent, push levers or ball-plunger. GVL224 Youtube channel.

You find some 3D Printer projects in Thingiverse. And this project can give some idea: https://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/topic/12841-руд-gel2/

True, but Rel4y adapter is very "PnP", need open the TQS for plug, don't change anything of TQS and cost little more ($36) than the obsolete Rockfire ($30) Gamerpot-USB adapter - not suitable for TQS, and ~$61 with the contact less TLE5010 sensor:

Of course, that's a video adaper. External DIY adapter: But (IMO) is pointless keep the gameport cable, just fit the Arduino inside the TQS box. An example, making a PCB for the Arduino that fit over the connector for the cable.

TQS is just a "brainless box" with 3 potmtr, 1 mini-stick and 10 buttons in a 3x4 diode matrix. It's easy to convert in a "pnp" throttle using Windows HID drivers.