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Everything posted by Sokol1_br
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Re-code the sketch used, changing the name and VID/PID (if available) is the "easiest" way.
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DCS NEWB, Amazing Thrustmaster 16000m HOTAS deal....Advise Needed
Sokol1_br replied to PJPower05's topic in Thrustmaster
An sliding bearing MOD for TWCS is available: https://www.etsy.com/listing/885326705/impulse-slider-thrustmaster-t16000m -
One thing you may can consider is upgrade Simped USB controller - eg. with Bu0836A, MMJoy2, FreeJoy... the original controller is from end of 1990's and has only 4 bits (128 points) resolution.
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You can use any throttle that work as standalone controller, know models: Thrustmaster TWCS throttle Thrustmaster Warthog Throttle Thrustmaster TQS - with TUSBA adapter, or converted for standalone with Arduino, BU0836A... CH PRO throttle Saitek X-52 throttle Saitek-X55/56 throttle VirPil T50CM throttle (any V#) GVL224 throttles (custom made by order) Kantorrini throttle (made by order) And the "to be released after Chinese Lunar New Year" VKB TECS throttle (just is not known what year they refer to). And to be released (?) VKB THQ-SEM modules. VKB DevCfg software, that store buttons, axes configurations in joystick EPROM, is used only for set parameters, don't need run in game background, has keyboard and mouse emulation if want. Joystick Gremlin can be used for keyboard emulation, combining any brand of joysticks as one.
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DCS NEWB, Amazing Thrustmaster 16000m HOTAS deal....Advise Needed
Sokol1_br replied to PJPower05's topic in Thrustmaster
Can be paired with Gladiator Mk.II or any other brand joystick: "Needless to mention, THQ is fully capable of being a standalone usb device that can be used as an addition to any gaming ecosystem of any brand". -
Use Joystick Gremlin+vJoy for have features similar of Manager.
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Yes: "Standalone amplifier to connect load cells to any standard analogue input" You need one of these amplifier for each load cell, their output goes for an analog input of you USB controller. Probable find these amplifiers in Aliexpress.
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Debolestis Shapeways shop
Sokol1_br replied to debolestis's topic in PC Hardware and Related Software
VKB electronic adapter is for manage Warthog Shift Register of 3x CD4021 = 24 buttons, in Warthog/F-18 grips are used 19 buttons +POV HAT (4) = 23 buttons. CH Fighterstick has 16 buttons + POV HAT (4), so theoretically you can use more 4 buttons, but better ask in VKB forum if the adapter translate all Shift register 24 buttons or even more. -
Ordering rudder pedals without blackbox?
Sokol1_br replied to BullittDude's topic in VKB-SIM Flight Gear
Is not need use T-Link software for have virtual "differential brakes" emulation if plug the pedals in a black box or Gladiator base, just load a profile for Gunfighter or Gladiator with rudder virtual brakes axes incorporated. Get T-Rudder with black box will be convenient when decide buy a new pedal (VKB are talking about a 3 axes pedal) for sell the -
Debolestis Shapeways shop
Sokol1_br replied to debolestis's topic in PC Hardware and Related Software
AstroNomad The (proprietary) connector in VKB adapter is pressed in the place, probable you will destroy something trying take appart. I think that will be more easy - if feasible, modify CH grip base for fit in VKB adapter. BTW - You need a 3xCD4021 shift register PCB inside CH grip for "talk" with VKB electronic adapter, what will require too redo the connections (actually a 5x4 matrix) of buttons and HAT's. -
Yes, but only for planes with "Wheel brakes" command only, e.g. Spitfire, Mig-15, 21... these planes have native "differential brakes" modeled (wheel brakes + rudder for ground turns). But this option don't solve the issue of taxi maneuvers for planes with "toe brakes", e.g. P-51, Bf 109. For this planes I set a button in stick, trigger in VKB Gladiator (mode 2 = green led), in VKB T-Link software for press the two virtual axis need for use as brakes. In games, e.g. DCS, IL-2 CloD set this two virtual axis of T-Link software for left and right wheel brakes. - IL-2 Bo'x don't need this because have "differential brakes" modeled for all planes, IMO a marketing decision in benefit of people using 3-in-1 joysticks with twist rudder and not fancy HOTAS + pedals. Now when in P-51, Bf 109... is just matter of do like in Spitfire, Mig-15, 21... pressing the trigger (in Green mode): Brake both wheels equals. Move rudder bar for left or right and press the trigger, only the left or right wheel is braked and taxi turns made. So no reason for get an inferior product (Saitek PRO, CH, TFRP) just because their overrated "toe brakes", instead can buy a budget "high end" pedals: VKB T-Rudder brake'less. - Of course if money is not problem get a MFG Crosswind, TPR, VirPilAce, Slaw Viper... pedals with brakes pad. Any plane will turn in taxi maneuvers like if are using the overrated "toe brakes", and after all, taxi maneuvers is a very secondary thing in flight games, no reason for make "drama" about brake methods. If you decide bough T-Rudder, send me a PM with you joystick and throttle models, so I can suggest alternatives for "brake like a PRO" ... without the overrated "toe brakes".
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Hall effect sensor Question
Sokol1_br replied to Sierra99's topic in PC Hardware and Related Software
The format of magnet is not too issue, but magnet can't leave the sensor area, or crazy things happens, what your drawing show difficult will work. Anyway find a way to try your magnet and sensor placement idea before start build. Better put two magnets in opposite sides of axis tube (N-S) oriented, and put the sensor in the middle of tube inside the N-S field. Consider use ready to use Hall sensor "potentiometer", like Bi-Tech 6120 series, pay attention to "effective electric angle", if get a wrong model you plan may fail. Or more advanced easy to use sensors, like GVL224 MagRez (KMZ42 magneto resistance) or Rel4y version, or TLE5010/11 (available in ready to use kits in Aliexpress), that require Mmjoy2 or FreeJoy as controller, due their digital bus. First thing to do is determine how much angle the axis of your lever will move, then how fit a sensor for this required angle. -
Looking for a Throttle controller
Sokol1_br replied to SunriseReaper's topic in DCS World Tutorial & Help Requests
VKB say that will release their TECS throttle after the Chinese Lunar New Year - but are not clear about the year. If you can wait this "release", in meantime use the center dial in NXT base as throttle, is an analog axes. VKB SEM modules -teaser at ~$50 each, are good "band aid" temporary solution, but they are not in sales yet. The more cheap alternatives of standalone (at least in MSRP) is Thrustmaster TWCS or CH PRO Throttle. -
Ordering rudder pedals without blackbox?
Sokol1_br replied to BullittDude's topic in VKB-SIM Flight Gear
Mail sales@vkb-sim.pro -
TM Cougar & CH magnetoresistive/ hall sensor kits
Sokol1_br replied to rel4y's topic in Thrustmaster
Datasheet of this potentiometer series: https://br.mouser.com/datasheet/2/96/251-1147030.pdf -
This kind of Hall sensor has analog output, so is compatible with Cougar controller and has been used in some Cougar mods (and by MilesD when they make replacement kits): But is very PITA find the correct center of magnetic field manually.
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Well, MFG Crosswind is close to real too, because is inspired in BF 109 pedals mechanism, requiring foots over the pedal pad: http://109lair.hobbyvista.com/walkaround/10639/bk6.stbd.pedal.jpg Real private plane and sailplane pilots opine in MFG Crosswind development back in ~2010/11. Not that their (MFG) mechanism are "the best", just to point that they are no Alien in real planes. Now VKB T-Rudder mechanism is very "Alien" but they are very conformable and precise to use, just need move tip of feet's.
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Not clear if this is an individual project or commercial venture, construction similar to BRD, with laser cut metal pieces and bearings in pivots. Sensors in the picture are analog GVL224 MagREZ (KMZ41 magneto resistence), compatible with Cougar original controller. https://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/topic/14239-механика-рус-для-cougar/
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DCS NEWB, Amazing Thrustmaster 16000m HOTAS deal....Advise Needed
Sokol1_br replied to PJPower05's topic in Thrustmaster
Each of this VKB SEM extra modules its said that will cost $50~(3 in the picture). -
DCS NEWB, Amazing Thrustmaster 16000m HOTAS deal....Advise Needed
Sokol1_br replied to PJPower05's topic in Thrustmaster
Only stick X, Y axes use Hall sensor (Melexis MLX90333 used in Warthog and X-56), secondary axes (twist rudder, throttle slider) and TWCS throttle axes use conventional potentiometer. Some users have replaced throttle potentiometer with a model with longest lifetime. T.16000M twist may present issues with short use ~3/6 months, because twist axis pot' "bed" is bad designed and flex the pot, are some workaround in Reddit/HOTAS but are temporarily measures, is the biggest flaw of the set. Price $140 is OK for the actual crazy times (In Thrustmaster EU store is 149,99 €). -
F-18C Hornet Mini 3D Printed Throttle Unit - Help wanted!
Sokol1_br replied to obious's topic in Home Cockpits
Nice look project. Why not use Bi-Tech 6120 series HALL sensor "potentiometer" instead P-260 potentiometer? https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/tt-electronics-bi/6127V1A60L-5/2620660 Bi-Technologies and TT Electronics are the same group. This 6120 series have models with 35, 60, 90º (and more) of "effective electric angle" what make more easy match throttle levers movement. -
Warthog stick male DIN connector and TMS replacement
Sokol1_br replied to loziu's topic in Thrustmaster
Seems that 5 pins connector in Warthog/F-18/Cougar grips is a proprietary model, people have not find then other that with Thrustmaster. This DIN (5 pin) looks very similar This site has some "exotic" connectors: https://www.electronicplus.com/content/ProductPage.asp?maincat=aco&subcat=am2 GX connectors has the same pin pattern, but they look bigger. A common male DIN connector can be modified to match the modified for match the female connector in base (see Warthog DIY extension topics). For use a conventional PS2 connector pair like VirPil, will need drill hole for cable in the original base connector - caution with Hall sensor just bellow, and solder wires. -
Theoretically can, but in practice no. Why? - You need an "joystick potentiometer", with limited "effective electric range" on their resistive trail, tipycaly between 30 - 60 º. - Good brands like Spectrol, Bourns, Alps... don't make "joystick pot"*, but conventional models with 270/300º of "effective electric range". *Joystick/gamepad industry want the more cheap pot possible, not good quality, since these are used more in low cost devices (e.g. HOTAS X) and secondary axes of more expensive controllers (e.g. Warthog throttle slider). The used CTS pot is good enough for the purpose, last good time. They last little and/or cause problems in T.16000M twist axis, because the plastic mechanism of twist is bad designed and flex the pot case/pole, causing bad contact in wipers. Can use GVL224 MarRez - but will need some DIY for adapt. Or Rel4y Cougar replacement Hall sensor, that is for replace similar pot, these may are plug and play, check their topic there. Bi-Tech 612x series (models with 35 or 60 degrees of "effective electric angle") with 6mm pole may is probable suitable, but will require more DIY than above options.
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Don't worry about, even if the buttons has issues - I have not see any case of "buttons falling" in forums, Reddit/HOTAS... but if this happens, VKB will fix, like happens with the trigger of early version of Gladiator, that have some units (less than 1%) broken in "heavy hands", replaced with a strong and semi-flexible version. Some models of early NXT batch had issue with low durability of springs, what VKB address with a new spring hook(at left).