Deezle

Well I've played around with DCS Bios and one of my Teensy boards and have made a working Master Caution LED, and played with a servo tied to the flaps indicator so I think I might be able to pull it off. Any info on you radio Panels Warhog? I've seen yours with the 7 seg displays and they look fantastic :thumbup:

Yeah I can still stay inverted for a quite a while with the pumps off, however my testing was with a full load of fuel. I flew for a while with the pumps off, and then forgot about it, managed to take a bit of battle damage to an engine so I hit the crossfeed and both engines immediately died. ETA: I've found below 1400lbs of fuel the engine will die when you turn the pumps off.

I've thought about using 7 segment LEDs but that seems to be in way over my head. I'd have to do more reading on the subject. Not to mention I already have an ungodly amount of USB cables strewn about.

You were getting a landing gear warning. You can silence it using the button just behind the APU start switch.

I picked up a NMSP panel from American Milspec, for $5 I can't justify making my own. I've drawn it up in perpetration for drilling the back plate for mounting the switches. I think I've found push buttons that will somewhat mimic the Korry switches. I also placed an order for some encoders and knobs to make all the radios. They're going to be fairly stripped down function-wise but do everything you'd typically need them to do. This is what I've got so far. They're push button encoders so I can use those to mimic the function of some of the missing knobs.

I'm sure the visibility option will be controlled on the server side, just like labels and everything else. Why is this even a discussion?

Did you have crossfeed on? I've never had the right engine start with the pumps off.

You can still use toggle switches with toggle (single button) commands, but having the option of using either is best.

To further elaborate, the Russian FC3 level aircraft use the trigger to fire both the cannon and drop bombs/fire missiles. The cannon command is for switching to the cannon, it does not fire it.

The Su-25T (and many other modules) does not have a pilot body.

I think he means sloppy, such as the mic switch and CMS hat. Which they are compared to the other hats but are perfectly usable. I find the pinky switch is sloppy as well. The china hat could feel better too. It's a $400 amalgamation of metal and plastic and will never feel as good as the real thing.

Most of what you mentioned is just how they are. I had an X55 before and I still don't regret purchasing my WH. While the slew button isn't great, most of the problem is the default axis tune it has, play with that and it's a lot better.

The SimShaker software will make vibrations only for certain actions and certain planes, things like dropping bombs, firing the cannon, helicopter rotor vibration, piston engine vibration, ect. If you hook it up directly it acts just like a subwoofer and any bass sounds will be felt.

Yeah the extensions are epoxied on and small enough to remove the nuts. We have a Vision Pro CNC engraver, an Epilog 60w laser engraver, a CNC Bridgeport mill and an old manual Rockwell lathe.

I got my Teensy Arduino board wired in. I was able to program it so it sends a pulse when I throw a switch on or off, so no more custom LUA files to utilize the toggles properly. Ideally I'd emulate a different button press when a switch is turned off vs on, however the code I have only works up to 32 buttons and I'm way too much of a noob to expand on that yet. This would give the greatest versatility with other aircraft. Here's the underside of the panel, I quickly installed the Teensy using the existing wiring so it's a little messy. And the completed panels with CDU keypad.

I drew the panels from scratch, you can download the milspec font online. I got my CDU keyboard back together with the engraving, it works great! I'll take pics once I touch up the fill paint a bit. Also got my Teensy 3.1 today and ham-fisted my way through the code to make it a working joystick input device. I'll try and get it wired up tomorrow.

It's a standard profile engraving bit with a .005" tip, letter engraving is .010" deep. The white fill is lacquer stick I got all my buttons laser engraved today and filled with paint, letting them dry overnight and gonna peel the masking off tomorrow and clean off any excess.

Not sure what your deal is. I'm a triple screen user as well. I just modded the lua files to give me a max 160º FOV and use the default head position, works fine.

Here's the CDU keyboard integrated with the rest of the panels. All that left to do is fit the panels a bit better, get the standoffs correct to hold the button PCB a little lower, and engrave the buttons. They're ABS so we're gonna try using the laser first instead of sanding them flat and rotary engraving them. Unfortunately the GP Wiz40 for the switches is giving me fits now. I ordered a Teensy 3.1 which will likely replace it if Groovygamegear decides they don't wanna replace this board for me. It'll be my first adventure into Arduino land.

Thanks guys! So here's the start of my CDU (no screen, just the "keyboard"). I had a realization, since I already have my keyboard mapped to control the CDU, why not use a keyboard input board for my CDU build. So I took apart an old PS2 keyboard (I don't need yet another USB device), I then sat down with a meter and traced each key I needed. Keyboards use a matrix of "columns" and "rows" for the inputs. So I soldered the buttons into a 0.1" prototyping board and wired each button to the input board with magnet wire. Plugged it in and it works just like a keyboard. Engraving the button tops will likely be a challenge, I will most likely sand all of them flat, so the engraving depth is uniform. I will be cutting the AAP portion of the panel off and move it behind the CDU.

Did you by chance have SweetFX installed and no longer have it? IIRC it leaves behind a DLL file that will cause a crash if SweetFX isn't installed.

Move the default snap-view forward and save it.

Here's the completed panels. The saga doesn't end here however, I just placed an order for a few dozen push-buttons :music_whistling:

They're commonly referred to as E-clips. Not sure on the size, looks close to .093" (2.36mm).

Monitor your VRAM usage, this happened to me when I ran out of VRAM on my old card.