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MTFDarkEagle

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Everything posted by MTFDarkEagle

  1. Awesome mod! Will be doing this as well when eventually I get a TPR set as well :) :thumbup: :megalol: As long as you don't touch the one on my ZX10R you're good :P :P
  2. Whoohoo!! Done! Great! Thanks guys :) I ordered the Felix one :D
  3. Awesome! Thanks for the update. Good luck on ironing out all you want to do. Like many others I'm very much looking forward to flying it.
  4. What Darcwaynard said :) It is indeed also to release any residual hydraulic pressure. Get used to it - make it part of your standard start-up flow. If you do it often enough, you'll do it automatically :P
  5. Whoa apparently I need to learn to read :P So this model is in itself suitable for extensions, it's just that the deflection could make it troublesome, in the entire range of motion including the extension. The WH has a similar +/-20 degrees range of motion, so I might get an extension for my WH first, to see if it would/could work in my situation. The warrenty thing I think is a non-issue. It states that any damage to the grip, by using an extension (i.e. banging it into something and thus damaging it) isn't covered by the warrenty. In fact, I find it strange that this is even stated on the product page, as I would think this would be quite reasonable/normal to not include something like this (i.e. person's responsibility to check the range of motion etc.).
  6. :megalol: :doh: :music_whistling:
  7. Hi, Is VIRPIL currently developing a new base, for cockpit builders, like the T-50? Currently in the assortment is the WarBRD base; but that's not suitable for extensions according to the product page. So is a base in development which is suitable for extensions? Thanks,
  8. https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3725878&postcount=174 https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3735501&postcount=177 ;)
  9. Whoa really?? Damn... Nice work! It's one of the best manuals I've read so far. Keep it up :thumbup:
  10. It's faster/more efficient to fire up the Ka without ground power. All these systems you're talking about requiring power aren't required for flight. You can take off with all of this stuff switched off. Scramble startup is very easy. Batteries on, fuel pumps on, fire detect on, APU valve open and start. While the APU is spooling up, open fuel valves for main engines and EEC controllers, and you can fire up any other system, ABRIS, EKRAN,... Once APU is spooled up, start engines and while they are spooling up you've got ample time to run some rudementary checks if necessary. I've been airborne while my second engine was still busy starting up.
  11. Hi Nemax! No I've not made any mayor progress since that last post. This part of the cockpit's design is pretty much complete apart from some final cutouts for stuff and other final details. After that I can create the DWG files to send off to the wood cutters. But that's not going to happen really soon, as I'm on the other end of the planet at the moment, for work :) I'll be coming back home end of March, so any progress is going to be after that. Also on my list is a GFX card upgrade. Currently running a GTX970 and it's struggling, so I'm going to get an upgrade for that at some point. But I also want to do lots of trackdays on my motorbike... And I need a new washing machine... So... Yea... :D
  12. https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=182299 Meantime solution...
  13. I think if there would ever be a paid-for upgrade for the Black Shark, it would depend on the price and content. If it's just a external & internal model update, I would be prepared to pay a small amount for it. Like 10~15 dollar or something I would be prepared to spend on it, in a heartbeat. Purely based on the fact that the original development of the Ka-50 has been so many years ago, and I've had so much enjoyment out of it over the years. If there would be some extra development, i.e. expanded avionics, more weapons, that sort of stuff, I'd be prepared to spend more.
  14. That's what I used. Thin plywood, I think it was 2mm thick. Using several wet towels and slowly but surely bent the material on the outside.
  15. It's very rare for a (modern) military aircraft to have a trim wheel as means of trimming the aircraft. So mapping it to buttons is the correct way in that sense. Having it on an easily accessible place, like a HAT switch makes life easier. My pointers would be: Don't trim the roll, unless you've got an assymetric load, or if the weather/wind/turbulence is messing with that part of the stability of the aircraft. Generally I don't have to trim the roll of the Harrier. Also, don't trim -while- maneuvering. If you're in the combat area, flying nice and stable, looking for your target(s) and you initiate an attack run, initiate, roll onto the target, and thén trim your pitch. In that way only a very small amount of trim will be required, as you were stable beforehand, and there won't be a massive difference to your speed after initiating. Off course this all goes in conjunction with your throttle/speed. What it sounds like to me is you're overtrimming. Try this: take-off in a clean Harrier, and trim (only up-down) to a stable flight. And then, make some light turns, without touching the trim at all during the turns. Try tighter turns, try doing attack runs, while only using minimal pitch trim. I find the Harrier one of the easiest aircraft to fly in this respect, practice makes perfect :)
  16. No, I mean before you do anything else in the cockpit. So, all is switched off, no electrics, nothing. Can you physically see the throttles moving forward and back in the cockpit?
  17. Okay, so after you cycle the throttles through their range once, and pull them back into the cut-off. Can you then repeatably put them to idle and cut-off and visa versa without fault?
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