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I don't know. I just knew Virpil and/or VKB had separate X and Y axis and were adjustable as opposed to the Warthog which isn't. I mainly wanted to tell you that I (probably) wouldn't go with a Warthog joystick knowing that I know now. There are joysticks that are better in the sense of being adjustable and maybe better quality. With TM WH I'm stuck with a non adjustable too strong spring. Ed/add The video wasn't to recommend the Virpil necessarily, it was mainly to show a cam system. I thought so, but didn't know for certain VKB also separated axis until you said it now. I'm still looking for information on both VKB and Virpil to figure out which is better for me to upgrade with. ~ Comment on removing the big Warthog spring. I tried that but the handle is very heavy. It will fall over hard to the side without any spring. So hard it might damage itself even possibly. Some kind of spring is needed.

I know VKB and Virpil are different companies. For OP (and for me). Here's a short very illustrative video of a cam system with separate X and Y axis on the Virpil WarBRD base. Video mentions it's Warthog compatible, meaning I could replace my Warthog base with a Virpil WarBRD base and keep the WH grip I already have as I understand it. Given the large number of different cams and springs that can be installed the replacement process seems a bit complex. At least compared to MFG Crosswind which is really fast and simple with just two nuts while never getting close to any fragile components. Video .

X and Y axes separated. I understand (could be wrong) that the joystick X and Y axis works with a cam system with VKB (or was it Virpil?), have different springs and spring forces X & Y are therefore separately adjustable. A cam system is for example the MFG Crosswind rudders. I don't know what "contactless base" is. The Hall sensor thing maybe. Except, I'd thought non-potentiometer setups are a given today.

For OP. You definitely can not make fast switches between spring and no spring with the WH joystick. It's 12 screws after removing the handle. Actually it's 22 screws total because you have to unscrew the bottom plate (4 more screws) to tighten the four screws at the bottom. They almost always get lose when unscrewing the four top ones. And there's two screws to loosen the circuit board to get to one of the them. 8 + 4 screws top. 4 + 2 + 4 bottom of base. ~ Knowing what I know now I would not have gone for the Warthog joystick. The throttle is fine. But for the joystick: X and Y axis are not separated. Spring is to stiff and can't be adjusted without modification. Gimbal is crap. The WH handle (grip?) is fine (well, one button got iffy within weeks of intense use). The WH looks and feel solid on the outside but reading this forum it's cheaper on the inside. ~ I'm interested in upgrading to a VKB base based on what people say on this forum (and this thread). It seems a good bet, removing the main WH flaws, the gimbal and the nonadjustable strong springs. And also providing separate X & Y axis I believe. But I don't know enough about VKB to know what to get (yet). ~ FF option for VKB base? Never heard of that before.

Dumb question. Is sensor slack (as opposed mechanical slack) technically even possible? Isn't the magnet fastened to the moveable stick and it moves over the sensor fastened in the base? Meaning no matter if there is mechanical slack the sensor will always sense movement whenever the stick moves? I have a small mechanical slack in the Y axis. It doesn't show in the Device Analyzer (I get a steady 32768 ). Estimate 1-2 mm movement at top of stick. I wonder if this translated to a smaller throw inside the base that is below the sensor detection. I also wonder what is causing the mechanical slack. Could a worn O ring cause it?

Tested some more. I can start engine at 13.1 V (estimate). Drained battery down to 13.1 V by just turning starter over. Again interestingly (or not), draining from just under 15V to just over 13V is fast (less than a minute, didn't time it). Couldn't drain below 13.1V, at least not fast. Maybe if I kept at turning over with the starter for 5 or 10 minutes... After engine start at 13.1 V, it stays at 13.1 V while idling (as opposed idling at 14.8 with a fresh spawn). Ok, now I set parking brake and revved up to 2000 rpm. Needle now not twitching every 7 second (timed the twitch this time), so now continuously charging without cutting out? After 20-25 minutes of 2000 rpm revving, it's back at 14.8-14.9V at idle. Also needle twitches every 7 sec again when revved up. Battery is charged again I interpret this.

I think I had a start at 13V once but I would need to verify again (painful with non-SSD disk and more bounce breaks than succesful repairs). I noticed the Voltmeter twitches regularly (every 20 seconds?) with parking brake and revving 1500-2000 rpm. As if some regulator cuts in and out? Also on first revving up, it goes ever so slightly above 15V before cutting back to 15V. ~ In a scenario setting, it would be nice to have Repair work as it should. Repair was a big thing in Battle of Britain. Also in some terrains, having flown a good bit of the map it's a downer having to spawn from far away again because Repair doesn't work. ~ I love the Spitfire to. Probably related to how long it took to learn.

The bounce happens on RWY as well and on taxi ways (try especially the broad taxi way at Senaki). ~ Did a quick test watching voltmeter. Spawned RWY. 14.8V idling (estimated). Full throttle = 15V. Ground looped while watching voltmeter:music_whistling: Repair, 14V, wouldn't turn over on pushing starter. Interesting (or not), volt drops to 9V while pushing starter (lights dim) and refusing to turn over. Volt drops to just 12V when engine successfully turns over (from 14.8-14.9 Volt on fresh cold spawn). ~ I shut off engine all the time while rearming/refueling and never have a problem restarting. I always try restart immediately after repair. Engine off while repairing or refuel/rearming are both about 4-5 minutes I think. So what's different? About Ground power. I don't think I need to research that the point of Ground Power is engine start 99% of the time. So why doesn't this work? Verified after breaking engine on purpose: Noted the same drop to 9V (no turn over) with Ground Power connected/unconnected. Saw this once. Grew tired of trying to recreate when I couldn't Repair without bounce/breaking again after about 4 attempts.

What title says. This is standard/expected functionality in windows environments. Click title Group, Unit Type, Position, Country, Airfield and Player and have them sort alphabetically.

Surprisingly easy to recreate with P51. Taxi off RWY onto grass at Batumi, retract landing gear. Repair. First just prop bent, then from bad to worse ... and worse (pilot dead).

Today also happened for the P51D. Can't remember it ever happened with P51D before. Same thing, P51 tail visibly 'very' underground before shooting up (and losing tail wheel interestingly). Propeller fine but engine broken because prop hit ground. Not Spitfire specific.

Engine breaks immediately after repair because of bounce. This happens a lot. Every 3rd repair maybe (just a guess). I finally noticed more precisely what happens. 1) Start Repair. Spitfire is raised straight up. 2) Fuselage gets angled tail down, nose upwards 3) When Spitfire is lowered after repair, tail wheel goes underground 4) Because tail wheel is underground tail shoots up like a rocket. 5) Propeller hits ground and breaks, engine also broken. If no 2), the fuselage re-angling tail down didn't happen and Spitfire was just lowered straight down, the bounce wouldn't happen and propeller wouldn't break. Video recorded of offline track. Easy to recreate I think. Happened twice in a row, first attempts. Spawn CW Batumi RWY, stand on brakes, powerup and let it nose over. Repair.

I tried ground power. No joy. I kept shutting off fuel pump and radiator flap on the theory battery drained by while repairing. But repair should provide a fresh battery one would think.

It still happens. Happened today. Sometimes after repair engine just refuses to turn over. ED/add Wasn't gonna post this until I had more information (finding a sure way to recreate) but searching found this thread and realized it's probably the same thing.

I think I keep seeing something similar, probably the same. Sometimes, after Spitfire repair, the engine refuses to start. Lights dim (as in pulling current) but engine doesn't turn over.

Question on trimming at any altitudes. I trim exclusively with rudder to keep the ball centered. Right/wrong? When should aileron trim be used? More precisely I trim rudder until it stops turning (ed/add actually rolling). This centers the ball. Sidenote, Spitfire needle is much easier to see.

Thought better of it and hit "cancel". Restarted. Got a "P51 activation required". Canceled program again. Checked activation count for P51. "1/10" as it should be (not "2/10" as I feared). Tried or words to effect. Funny I'm running 2.5.4.28841. 2.5.4.28841 is listed as last version in Open Beta update thread. Anyway, went online, spawned P51D just to see if any problem. No problem. ~ 1) Should I accept the update " from 2.5.4.28841 to 2.5.4.28840"? 2) Is there a way to check activation count for keyless products? For the P51D I input serial number, no serial to input for Spitfire for example.

Is it the same problem if using an alternative base from Virpil or VKB?

Multiple persons mention how removing an extension will damage the gimbal ball inside the Warthog base. How exactly will it damage the gimbal? Is it because unscrewing the extension one cannot grip and hold gimbal to prevent it from rotating? And this will make the plastic absorb the yawing and make it break?

I thought about this, disappointed at not being able to do any kind of radio navigation with the P-51. It would be fun to have a 'restored' P51 with some modern navigation instruments. But a) This really shouldn't be a DCS priority. b) If just flying around for fun, a real substantial terrain (preferably worldwide) is required. Caucasus gets old quick. A worldwide terrain simply isn't happening unless free user made terrains are allowed. I remember flying MSFS ca 1996, I remember the insane amount of user made terrain that was available. You could choose multiple terrains for the same area, go with the terrain maker you liked best.

Ok. That makes sense for the liveries. It's not a bug, it's just how the program works. Setting Spitfire nationality as UK I can select liveries in offline missions. Online is the same thing. In Hoggit training map Spitfire is set as USA, so that's why I can't set liveries. Because every other plane I tried, I could set liveries for, I got the misconception that maybe there was a bug with the Spitfire.

Just to note, I think Off position is simulated now (if it wasn't before). With both "Main Fuel Cock" and "Drop Tank Fuel Cock" off, engine stops. Turning either one On makes engine run again. Conditions: Under 10K feet (no aeration or pressure complications) with slipper tank. Fuel pump on. With Fuel pump off a little wobble is needed before engine starts again.

Spitfire have no liveries to choose from in the Ground Crew->rearm/refuel window. Searching forums this thread seemed appropriate to add to. I have three modules: P-51D, Spitfire and FC3. Liveries work for all planes except Spitfire (not tested every FC3 plane, only the F-15C, I assume all other FC3 plane liveries works). Related possibly. Reading threads I get the impression that every plane should have a Customized Cockpit option in the Options->Special tab. I have no "customized cockpit" for the Spitfire or the P-51D. I have "customized cockpit" (in special tab) for all other planes (including TF-51D). Mods (all under "Saved Games"): I have a Spitfire cockpit mod placed under C:\Users\myusername\Saved Games\DCS\Liveries. This is where they should be placed I learned. It makes no difference if this cockpit mod is in place or not. As an experiment after reading Stonehouse post #10 this thread (last paragraph) I tried copying the SpitfireLFMkIX and the SpitfireLFMkIXCW from C:\Program Files\Eagle Dynamics\DCS World\CoreMods\WWII Units\SpitfireLFMkIX\Liveries. Not same place as Stonehouse copied from but this is where the liveries exist. After doing this I got a) "Customized Cockpit" tab for Spitfire that didn't exist before and b) it contains a list of liveries as other people have seen. Borrowing the image from first post in thread: Something I did that I believe is unrelated but I'll mention it anyway. I initially installed stable version and then used updater.exe to modify to open.beta. For this reason it doesn't say "open beta" anywhere in folder names, although I am running open beta.

Thanks for confirming it isn't just me doing something differently/wrong.

One of many small details that so impressed me with the free TF51D that it made me buy further DCS modules. Always wished for a real 'flight simulation' while flying more 'arcadish' games.