Savvy

Edit: I'll post my findings right here at the top to save others from reading through. Software: The general consensus on CNC software is to use the Free Personal version of Fusion 360 for design, and Estlcam for the path generation. Fusion 360 has a high learning curve but is very powerful. If you focus on '2d Sketches' it will be easier to follow. Cut2d,vCarve are very good bits of software but are quite expensive. Adobe Illustrator, Corel Draw and Google Sketchup(free) are other options. After some testing and swearing, I posted my settings here: Original post: So my 30x20 CNC machine has arrived and I've got a couple of test panels, with paths all created and ready to go with Cut2d. However I see that the Cut2d Trial version doesn't allow me to export the paths so there's no way to actually see if it will work. I find Cut2d to be *really* good software and was intending to buy it however I don't really want to pay the $250NZD without actually seeing how the end product will look. So now I'm back to square-one a bit and looking at what software setup might be best for me. It looks like Inkscape with plugins may be able to create the Panels and Tool paths, however Inkscape is (being free) requires a lot more faffing abouth. I see Fusion360 is another option, but that has a pretty high monthly fee. What does everyone else here use for CNC milling software? Should I just go ahead and buy Cut2d or is there some other software that will work better?

Looks nice and tidy, well done!

I have glued small black squares of plast on the rim in the center position of each row/col of buttons. This helps a lot. Others have also stuck a small square of velcro on the middle button. The super glue is a great idea too.

Did you manage to get your switch problem solved? I haven't done anyting with DCS bios yet but a few things I'd try. Most of the example I see of get_argument_value use dev0, something like: local val = dev0:get_argument_value(arg_number) Actually, Reading someof the code, should the arg value be 267 instead, as defined here: defineToggleSwitch("RB_BK_REL_MODE",2, 3307, 267, "Weapon System", "RB-04/RB-15/BK Release Mode Switch") so maybe try: returnValue = GetDevice(31):get_argument_value(267)

Looks amazing, would love to see a build thread for sure.

I've found the same problem, all the volume/brightness items have no ability to be assigned. It's really annoying. I don't really want to use rotary encoders because I'm already using pots.

Here's a photo of what I did a long time ago, hopefully it makes a bit more sense. The trim wheel goes into a pot, and the flap lever has the little switch to swap between modes. All ran off a Arduino Leonardo which allows it to show up as a joystick in windows.

Generally a pot would be used for absolute values in older aircraft. If you used an arduino you could get clever and do both with a pot. I did that with a WWII flap lever. I added a small switch above it to switch between analogue and button mode. In analogue mode it would send directly as a joystick axis, in button mode it would send multiple upflap or downflap button presses based on where the lever was positioned. So that let me use it for the 109, and P51/Spitfire

I used one of those $5 retractable dog-leads which has a carabiner on the end to clip into the headset cable. Works really well and expands and contracts as needed.

I can't stop grinning. This is amazing work, well done indeed! How did you make the panels with the backlighting work? Presume it was done with a CNC router? I'm trying to work out the best method for mine. I don't really want to build/buy a CNC router just for the panels and paying somebody else seems quite expensive. At the moment I just have printed labels on black MDF but it doesn't look very good and of course cannot be backlit.

If you get the Natops manual, down the bottom there's a foldouts section which shows all the panels. I enlarged these until the were the correct size. I don't think they're 100% to scale but were fine for my VR pit.

Oh, I thought the OP was referring to those little USB controllers that just have button options. Those Bodnar boards look really nice. Presume you were referring to the BU0836X 12-Bit Joystick Board?: http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=180&zenid=686ec02514fe8e09bb32edd761f46d65 Does anyone know if DCS supoprts 64buttons? this one looks quite cool: BBI-64 Button Box Interface http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=300&zenid=686ec02514fe8e09bb32edd761f46d65

Potentiometers and Roatary encoders are another thing you likely won't be able to do with the pre-made usb boards. But yeah, if you have no time and don't want to get into it at all, then the original question was a bit moot.

I've got I think about 200 stacked up, just glad I managed to stop buying them

Arduino can be setup to be a USB joystick on its own using something like a Leonardo, so would be essentially the same thing. However making an arduino box is quite a process, certainly much more if you have no experience in electronics or coding. If you have little interest in the process itself and/or don't have the time then I'd say getting something pre-made is a far better option. I can't speak for anyone else, but for me the hard way is always the most interesting and fun. The end result is important however the process to get there, and the pride of building something yourself is another hobby in itself. Flying and building are essentially two hobbies, not mutually exlusive. Doing something yourself also allows you the option to do it exactly how you need. For example my VR pit has momentary switches for all physical switches, including gear and hook. Everything returns back to the middle position so there's never any issues with switches/controlls being out of sync - they can always go both up and down.

Could you not just trim out some of those extra spaces? Something like: void onDedLine1Change(char* newValue){ // initialize the LCD lcd.begin(); lcd.setCursor(0, 0); newValue.replace(" UHF ","UHF"); newValue.replace(" VHF ","VHF"); newValue.replace(" STPT "," STPT"); lcd.backlight(); lcd.setCursor(0, 0); lcd.print(newValue); } Another way to get an extra space would be to replace "STPT" to "STP". Not authentic but would get the job done.

In my test it only showed as unkown until interrogation showed it as friendly. Never showed as red

One idea, which may have already been mentioned is where the original owner could buy a special 'gunner' version for 25-50% more. This would allow anyone without the mod to join their heli. So the pilot pays a bit more, but anyone can join.

I've just tested this myself on a multiplayer test mission with two computers in the same room. F18 sitting behind a Viggen at about 20miles. The SA and radar pages on the 18 quickly show the Viggen as friendly regardless of whether IFF is on or off. It never showed the half circle on the hud though I presume that's due to no other donor aircraft on the datalink. I could probably test that by putting an awacs in the mission.

Nope, I was in Viggen and they were in 18's/14's from memory. Might have to do some testing considering Flappies experience.

Thrustmaster Warthog with default strong springs. I don't often use trim unless I need to type something... so yah.. I have a rather strong right forearm now heh.

So it doesn't really matter for IFF if it's turned on or off. It's just magically on all the time? I ask because I was shot down by a friendly the other day in multiplayer and was told I should've had my IFF on.

That is awesome, great video

Does anyone know if the Viggen's IFF needs to be switched on for it to show as a friendly in Multiplayer? I can't find much information about it, and none of the start up tutorials seem to mention turning it on.

I have a problem in VR. When somebody request to join, I can't find the 'dot' mouse cursor to click accept, the dot cursor just doesn't seem to be active. Sometimes I can open a comms menu which seems to enable the 'dot' cursor, but other times not. Why can't we just have one mouse cursor in VR? It's so confusing when they seem to be in different locations from each other and sometimes invisible.