S. Low

I’m not sure if it’ll help but I’ll give my set up: I have virpil stick and throttle, and Xbox controller. I have nearly identical controls set for both pilot and CPG so I’m ready to fly as CPG as needed, plus the administrative stuff like zoom and map… views.. etc are where they always are. For the TEDAC I have the most used functions bound to the controller with a modifier used as well. Triggers and left stick aren’t bound yet because I was searching for a program. LB is the modifier. RB is laser and fire. Dpad is WAS and sight select. Back button and start button are Tads, HMD, FCR, and LMC. A B X Y are store, slave, Flir, TV, and the four flir fov modes

Well I’d like to be able to have laser on one and weapons fire on the other so it sounds like I have to use ReWASD?

I thought hellfires were heavier my bad.

Center return trim option is still instant trim. You can either press and release quickly, or press and hold.. then release. Press/release works better. If you use the FFB friendly option, remember that if you recenter your physical joystick after trimming, it will register in game as a slight movement away from trim because it assumes you’re using a FFB which would hold your physical stick in place

I’m using my Xbox one controller as my Tedac controller. However, i can’t get DCS to recognize the Left and Right triggers, or the left stick, as buttons instead of axes. Any ideas on what program I could use to change the controller logic to buttons instead of axes?

Weight and time on station.

Noted about RTE mode, thanks!

I have virpil stick and throttle, mfg crosswind pedals. Springs in. I’m using the center return trim special option. After pressing trim I’m sure to let go of my physical stick and pedals to let them physically recenter quickly and then taking control again. Takes a fraction of a second. I retrim a number of times during the initial break (not shown) and descent.

Don’t forget , after pressing trim you need to also let go of and recenter your physical rudder pedals. I posted a video as a new thread. Does it help or no?

No need for trim reset, just keep re-trimming as you pull back a bit to slow down and readjust. I started at 1200 ft and 130 IAS. Video starts after I made it 180 degress around the circle in my descent so I'm already down to 600 ish ft. Minimal adjustments to the stick needed. If anyone cares I can do another with the controls indicator up? She's a lady. Handle her with care I'm not looking at the hover symbology really. Just fixing on the trees in front and watching the VSI on the altitude tape. Landing will smooth out with practice. I could do this better I'm sure.

Finally figured it out lol. Using the cursor select helps this process a lot while keeping hands on the controls. The "automatic" system of advancing the waypoints seems unforgiving. I swear I was flying right through the location, altitude and all and it didn't switch forward. Oh well.

What do you mean it goes nuts?

It’s really amazing. Have a beer fellas

I’m also using Xbox one controller for tedac and had to put a +15 deadzone on the x/y axes for the movement controls (thumbforce?)

I understand the argument about the new center point of the controls, while your spring stick is physically centered; it being difficult to reach a heavy deflection to the opposite direction as in going from forward flight to a hover. I get it. Its just that I think many of you are over thinking this. You should always be retrimming. It’s not a one and done thing. So if you’re coming to a situation to slow down and hover or land, you should just be retrimming the stick back for slowing down and hovering/landing. I mean I don’t care if ED adds force trim reset, no skin off my back. I just think there’s always an initial confusion with exactly how to get trim to work and how to use it properly. We all had confusion with the hind too.

I have no curves on my stick and no extension. It took me maybe 30 minutes to an hour to get the hover down. It is a very responsive helo and you’re likely doing these two things: 1) over correcting with too much input at low speeds. 2) getting trim messed up

I was wondering this as well and asked wags in the comments of his recent video. His answer was "Select as your Direct to DIR" so I'll have to check that out. Then there's also casmo's TSD video here at 4:03 where he shows under the PAN screen that theres a Route up and down arrow that cycles between waypoints

Video of said blinking. Apologies for discord swearing, don't know how to mute the recording. Link to track file: https://drive.protonmail.com/urls/G84FC4Q86G#ec6jOxySZIs2

I dunno if this is normal, or a multiplayer desync bug. I'll get a track next time. Flying CPG for a buddy doing night ops and my TDU screen blinks every second or so. But when pilot looks at my TADS view through his MPD, he doesn't see any blinking. Need an epilepsy warning lmao.

Bummer. Thanks for the info

Yeah I was curious if DCS had implemented it. Why would I text my CPG? For luls

And question 2: if I map my physical keyboard to be the keys for the keyboard unit, will I be able to open up multiplayer chat separately and type in multiplayer chat without also typing into the keyboard unit? Will DCS turn off the keyboard unit inputs if multiplayer chat is activated?

Hey a fire, lemme throw some gasoline on it I never used trim reset in any of the helos. I just continuously retrim as needed.

Yep! And my buddy noticed that the selector switch works on the m4 in the front seat

It also seemed to me that the ATT and ALT holds either weren’t functioning or had negligible effect. I’ve been using the FFB trim mode even with a normal stick since I like the single button press. Only issue is when I release my physical stick to center it obvious reads this as a slight movement because my stick isn’t a FFB stick. I still get it trimmed up pretty nice with a few fine tuning trims . I’ll try the center release option again tonight see if it feels better