26-J39

I've only recently purchased TrackIR, previously been using Freetrack. I got the pro clip (which works great) but I actually prefer the reflective clip for ease of use reasons. I did find the reflective clip abit dodgy at times so I replaced the reflective tape on the clip with new tape and it now works just as good as the pro clip. I used the reflective tape from an old safety vest. :)

Been flyin Black Shark since day 1.... No doubt about it, the trim "system" feels totally different... Still using my same X-52 pro. :huh:

This thread gives me :)....& some :music_whistling: NO CHAFF DISPENSER IN KA-50... :doh: Yup, deal with the hardware you have. ;)

I had this problem also, are you using Win7 32 or 64 bit? If using 32bit lookie here: http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1084420&postcount=8 The error message re: Warthog is nothing to be concerned about, you don't need to install Warthog for BS2 to be functional.

Guys remember that you will need certain vehicles at the farp to give you the ability to re-arm/re-fuel. Look here: http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=916786&postcount=5 No need to open doors etc.. In MP many mission builders forget to put these units in place.

That shouldn't be a problem, this vid helped me alot when making custom panels:

I too was having the same error message " Black Shark need to be installed " after re-installing ver 1.0 twice, I wasn't asked to enter the activation key until I jumped in the KA-50, then I was able install BS2. I guess ver1.0 needs to be activated.

Thanks for the clarification Randy.. I understand now, I think the confusion was the assumption an axis would use a pot. (axis being variable) So basically the 6 axis connections use a switch to get the on/off state and then can be assigned to an axis within game/A-10C etc. Sorted :thumbup:

Silly me just thought of it, I think you can use the joystick axis for a switch with a bit of trickery. :P But I assume the GP Wiz will still send the signal to the PC as an Axis so alternate software may needed to function, ie- be able to be binded to a key. Quite simple really, using a 3 pin switch connect a resistor ( specific value you will have to find for a desired deflection/axis movement ) across the NO & NC terminals, ground to COMM as usual. Also connect JUST the NC pin to the GGG. This way when the switch is normally closed axis should be at zero, when u flick the switch power will flow through the resistor. :smilewink: I might give this a try when i get home later, bought 2x GP cards just in case :D Edit: Ok had to try this quickly before work. First I tried to find the resistance required for a full axis deflection, this appears to be less than 10 ohms which is strange to me? Tried my idea with the switch using a the 10 ohms resistor but it didn't work even tho testing the switch manually it did flick from 0 to 10 ohms... confused again :huh: To cap it off I cut the resistor so it was wired basically as a switch and then it worked.. flicking the switch moved the axis from center to full.. more confused. :huh: :wacko: Randy!! :music_whistling:

I guess think of it more being digital input from the GP-Wiz to the PC. Its advertised as a digital interface card. 32 button card w- 4 joystick axis, no mention in the fact sheet about using the joystick inputs as switches. Could be wrong tho. :P

Thats weird, i've mapped 31 switch states that all work fine. R1, L1, D1, U1, R2, L2, D2, U2 are used for potentiometers and cannot be used for switches, all the others should work as a switch, apart from 5v and ground obviously.

What happened to the other 862,585 alternate futures man? :huh: * Jokes aside this issue needs to be resolved.

Awesome work! Thank you :)

Many thanks to Tigershark, I too was inspired by this thread and thought i'd give it a go. Made with some scrap material and using some spare switches i had lying around the main cost was the GP Wiz Card and a few other switches I needed, came to around $50 USD. Some of the switching problems I solved by connecting the 3 pins of a switch to two joystick functions, some also by editing the LUA, now all the switch functionality is working 100% as it should. :D Here's some pic's, Fuel panel left and Elec panel right. Notice on the left panel the red button for Gear Silence Horn! Had to add that one! :P Cheers

Here: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=816434#post816434

Sticky that 1 .. :thumbup:

Sorry if this is known and in the process of being changed :) When i visit http://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com it still mentions the Minimal system requirements for A-10C are: Operating system: 64-bit Windows XP, Vista, and 7 Processor: CPU: Core 2 Duo E6600 or AMD Phenom X3 8750 or better Memory: 4GB [...] The sim works on a 32 bit OS with 2Gig RAM.. Really think this needs to be updated as ED are potentially loosing sales!! Cheers :)

Just chillin.. :P Precision landing by: MadSmurf AEF 161 Sqn :thumbup:

Thank You Ricardo +1. Your work is nothing short of stunning.. Been hanging out for this one.. :thumbup:

Looking forward to your pack :thumbup:

You can do it in this round about way. TAD in SOI -> Slew cursor and make a mark point - > TMS right short Switch steering knob to MARK Then just Hook the mark point on the TAD and off you go..

ILS works good.. All the info above are good tips, the power switch for the ILS is a little difficult to see tho when you first try to get it working, ( the base ring around the left ILS knob ), right click to turn that on. Cant seem to get any tones from ILS, tho TACAN works fine on the other hand.

Freetrk works fine for me, beta's and final.. Using PPJoy.

Post not so pointless.. :) I enjoyed reading.. +1 The A-10 is a beast but the Shark IS and will always be something special.. :thumbup:

Hey Sam.. Try this bud : http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1114012&postcount=4 ;)