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Warthog 12cm extension problem


trooph
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Hi.

I need help...

My 12cm extention seems to be "baked" with that plastic part of the joystic.

I just can not unscrew it, and i dont want to use too much force just not to mess with the joystick itself...

any ideas how i can loosen it up? WD40 is ofcourse not usable here...

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I broke one Warthog trying to remove an extension. This is why I won't use that style extension anymore. The extensions from Zahry (Simpit Technologies) don't have this issue because they have the same mating surfaces as the Warthog.

 

DSCN3132_zpsbfzliapb.jpg

 

DSCN3133_zpscfwtjegx.jpg

 

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=99092

 

I am not advertising for him, just pointing out the significant difference between his extension and most of the others out there.

 

His might not be as sexy but it won't leave you with this problem.

 

EDIT: Short of dismantling the base (which I need to do anyway to fix what broke), I have yet to remove the extension from my broken base. If you get it off, please post your method.


Edited by cichlidfan

ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Hero, i7-6700K, Noctua NH-D14 Cooler, Crucial 32GB DDR4 2133, Samsung 950 Pro NVMe 256GB, Samsung EVO 250GB & 500GB SSD, 2TB Caviar Black, Zotac GTX 1080 AMP! Extreme 8GB, Corsair HX1000i, Phillips BDM4065UC 40" 4k monitor, VX2258 TouchScreen, TIR 5 w/ProClip, TM Warthog, VKB Gladiator Pro, Saitek X56, et. al., MFG Crosswind Pedals #1199, VolairSim Pit, Rift CV1 :thumbup:

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You could try to grip the stem of the stick with a narrow pipe wrench or something similar - just protect everything around and the plastic stem itself so you don't scratch the soft plastic. Then grip the wrench and unscrew the extension.

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You could try to grip the stem of the stick with a narrow pipe wrench or something similar - just protect everything around and the plastic stem itself so you don't scratch the soft plastic. Then grip the wrench and unscrew the extension.

 

My slimmest Vise Grips and pliers were either too wide or did not provide the needed grip. I ended up buying a new stick (on sale, luckily).

ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Hero, i7-6700K, Noctua NH-D14 Cooler, Crucial 32GB DDR4 2133, Samsung 950 Pro NVMe 256GB, Samsung EVO 250GB & 500GB SSD, 2TB Caviar Black, Zotac GTX 1080 AMP! Extreme 8GB, Corsair HX1000i, Phillips BDM4065UC 40" 4k monitor, VX2258 TouchScreen, TIR 5 w/ProClip, TM Warthog, VKB Gladiator Pro, Saitek X56, et. al., MFG Crosswind Pedals #1199, VolairSim Pit, Rift CV1 :thumbup:

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That's a bit drastic! :)

 

I think if you disassemble the whole upper part of the stick you gain access to a wider part of the stem. And you can disassemble the whole "gimbal which is not called gimbal" and grip just the upper "ball". And even if you fail, the replacement parts in the "not gimbal" are only about 30$ each. And you can also combine the disassembly and reassembly with regreasing the whole mechanism.

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That's a bit drastic! :)

 

I think if you disassemble the whole upper part of the stick you gain access to a wider part of the stem. And you can disassemble the whole "gimbal which is not called gimbal" and grip just the upper "ball". And even if you fail, the replacement parts in the "not gimbal" are only about 30$ each. And you can also combine the disassembly and reassembly with regreasing the whole mechanism.

 

The stick is not the issue, it comes off of the extension just fine, just the base. This is what I am looking at.

 

DSCN3135_zpskomwho8q.jpg

 

Disassembling the base is probably necessary to get something that you can grip. One thing I have not tried is to slip some heat shrink tubing onto my needle nose vise grips to see if that helps.

 

I went the replacement route because I am lazy. :D One of these days I will tear it apart, but since I also have acquired (at a later date) a third stick, along with another throttle, I am in no rush.

ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Hero, i7-6700K, Noctua NH-D14 Cooler, Crucial 32GB DDR4 2133, Samsung 950 Pro NVMe 256GB, Samsung EVO 250GB & 500GB SSD, 2TB Caviar Black, Zotac GTX 1080 AMP! Extreme 8GB, Corsair HX1000i, Phillips BDM4065UC 40" 4k monitor, VX2258 TouchScreen, TIR 5 w/ProClip, TM Warthog, VKB Gladiator Pro, Saitek X56, et. al., MFG Crosswind Pedals #1199, VolairSim Pit, Rift CV1 :thumbup:

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Had the same issue with an extension. Ended up dismantling the base which gave a little more gripping area to remove the extension. Be careful as it wouldn't take much to break the neck of the joystick. Also gave me the opportunity to regrease the innards.


Edited by Lucky

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...the replacement parts in the "not gimbal" are only about 30$ each

 

This if only the inner ball (articulation sphere) broken, but if torque force is much can broken too the magnet support, part of the gimbal "bell" (the part with thread for attaching nut), Tm furnished this part too?

 

https://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/uploads/monthly_01_2017/post-30838-0-36707000-1484087120.jpg

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This if only the inner ball (articulation sphere) broken, but if torque force is much can broken too the magnet support, part of the gimbal "bell" (the part with thread for attaching nut), Tm furnished this part too?

 

https://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/uploads/monthly_01_2017/post-30838-0-36707000-1484087120.jpg

I had a friend brake the gimbal ball, and brake off the white magnet support in the process.

 

TM told him they only provide spares for the gimbal ball, if the magnet is broken they consider the stick broken..

 

As of now he is trying his luck with glueing the white magnet support back in place, since it was the only thing breaking off.

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Warthog HOTAS w/150mm extension, Slaw pedals, Gametrix Jetseat, TrackIR for monitor use

 

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I had the same problem with the extension from MFG. I destroyed the base when I tried to screw the extension off.

I bought a new joystick and used the extension again. But this time I removed it more smartly:

I held the "neck" (above the ball) of the gimbal with a pipe wrench when I unscrewed the extension. This worked since no torque was applied to the sensitive base. But I also decided not to take another gamble. I banned the extension.

LeCuvier

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If you lubricate the extension thread before attach with plastic friendly grease don't help?

 

That would likely make it so the extension keeps coming loose, which always happens at the most inopportune times. The original TM setup works with a separate nut to supply compression to keep the male/female socket mechanically engaged so very little force is needed and it doesn't come loose in yaw.

 

Most of the extensions however rely only on the friction generated in compression to keep it from coming loose so you pretty much have to over-tighten them to keep them from coming loose in operation.

 

One solution is a separate nut that can swivel in-place to draw a male/female part together like the original design (my own extension works this way but lacks the engagement at the base so still needs to be very tight though much less torque transfers to gimbals) because that's all weak links in the chain can handle. It makes the extensions much more complicated to produce. Metal articulation sphere would help, but then the stanchion for the magnet is the next vulnerable component...

 

Another acceptable solution that would be much easier to manufacture, would be to put a split in the female thread at the bottom like a threaded split-collar, where small capscrew to draws it tight to keep it from unscrewing after using light torque to seat the shaft.

 

threaded split-collar: tcl-f-threaded-clamp-collar.jpg

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Well, I will use a "Redneck" way: put the grease and use a short Allen bolt through the extension to held all in place, so don't came loose with use and allow easily remove. :)

 

VKB use a collar similar to this linked, but without threads.


Edited by Sokol1_br
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The stick is not the issue, it comes off of the extension just fine, just the base. This is what I am looking at.

 

DSCN3135_zpskomwho8q.jpg

 

Disassembling the base is probably necessary to get something that you can grip. One thing I have not tried is to slip some heat shrink tubing onto my needle nose vise grips to see if that helps.

 

I went the replacement route because I am lazy. :D One of these days I will tear it apart, but since I also have acquired (at a later date) a third stick, along with another throttle, I am in no rush.

 

I am thinking of buying the volair Simpit. Anyone have advice about what length to choose ? They also have the option to buy a curved extension, has anyone tried this ?

Intel Core i7­6700K, 32GB DDR4, 512GB PCIe SSD + 2TB HDD, GeForce GTX 1080 8GB, Pimax 5k+

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  • 2 years later...

I would like to happily report that I had this problem and just managed to twist the extension off.

 

I did it through a combination of heat, hammering and using a walnut cracker to clamp down on the plastic neck base, using a thick (and I mean super thick, like dishwashing gloves thick) rubber glove to both supply grip and protection to the neck of the plastic.

 

This took HOURS, this wasn't fast as popping off a cork. I had to cycle through these elements like so:

 

I screwed off the wide baseplate when I did this, so I suggest you do it too, BUT IF YOU DO, KNOW THAT THE ELECTRONICS AT THE BOTTOM ARE EXPOSED, disconnect from computer and use precautions to not shock the sensitive circuitry inside.

 

1. Heat with a blow dryer, get it nice and hot, so hot that you can't touch the metal extension past a few seconds (be sure that you are applying the heat a little above where the threads on the extension should be, heating the plastic neck will weaken it, making your chance of breaking it high)

 

2. Using a towel to protect your hand from the heat, hold up the extension and warthog base in the air (essentially dangling the base as you hold onto the extension) and with your other hand, tap all around the circumference of the extension with a small hammer, where the threads are, and keep doing this as it cools, tap as hard as you can without actually causing the stick to deflect from the impact. When it cools down to a warm temp (think of a warm mug of coffee that's warm, but cool enough to chug without scalding your mouth) move to step 3.

 

3. Wrap the glove around the plastic neck, clamp the nutcracker over the rubber glove, use the kind of nutcracker that hinges on a point at the tip of the nutcracker, sort of like a scissors if the blades past the hinge were cut off.

 

Grip it tight enough that it provides resistance when you go to twist off the extension but not so tight THAT IT DOESN'T ROTATE IN THE NUTCRACKER you actually do want the base to rotate a little bit, the rubber glove should protect the neck from the nutcracker, if the glove tears, find a thicker glove but only do this for maybe a dozen attempts, any more and you risk tearing through the rubber glove and gouging at the plastic neck.

 

Repeat step 1-3 until it eventually pops off.

 

I know it sounds ridiculous and I'm not 100% sure it will work for you as I've only had this happened once. But mine was so stuck on that trying to twist it off caused the ball inside to twist and warp a little, so it must have been pretty stuck. Again, this took almost 2 hours of just doing these 3 things over and over again and each cycle lasts about 15-20 minutes, but the science is there, heat to expand the material, hammer the hot metal as it cools (the 'as it cools' part is important) to cause the threads to loosen as the plastic and metal contracts at different rates, and the nutcracker to actually try to create the leverage needed while preventing a break at the ball.

 

I hope it works if you're reading this, let me know if it turns out it works for you so that others can know this wasn't just some crazy fluke.

 

Remember, slow and steady wins the race. You could just crank it and yes that would probably get the extension off, but you'd also completely wreck the plastic insides that weren't designed to take any sort of twisting forces. So if you're wondering why I did all that, it's to ensure the minimization of any chance of breaking a hundred dollars worth of peripheral controls.


Edited by WelshZeCorgi
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