epokha Posted May 10, 2013 Posted May 10, 2013 (edited) The problem that happened to me was the ribbon cable was pulled all the back through the base. Make sure you push it up before pulling up the ball socket. Make sure the holes on the sensor allow for the most slack on the ribbon cable. Then as you put it together again pull it down. Its annoying they used glue on ribbon cable, if you could unplug that it would be 10x easier. Talked to TM, they will send a replacement base for 150 EUR to Australia including shipping. Edited May 10, 2013 by epokha AMD 3600X- 32GB RAM - Gigabyte Geforce RTX 2080Ti - 512GB NVme Samsung 830 256Gb 840 256Gb SSD - Track IR 4.0 + TrackClip Pro - Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog - WarBRD base mount and extention - Simped F16/USB (Stolen!) - Thrustmaster T-flight pedals (spew) DCS KA-50 Blackshark 1 & 2; DCS P-51 Mustang; DCS A-10C Warthog; DCS UH-1 Huey; DCS F-86F; DCS Mi-8MTV2; DCS Mig-21bis; DCS: AV-8b; DCS: Spitfire IX; DCS: NS430; DCS: Combined Arms; Lock On Flaming Cliffs 3; Rise of Flight; IL2:1946;
tjhowse Posted May 10, 2013 Posted May 10, 2013 The problem that happened to me was the ribbon cable was pulled all the back through the base. Make sure you push it up before pulling up the ball socket. Make sure the holes on the sensor allow for the most slack on the ribbon cable. Then as you put it together again pull it down. Its annoying they used glue on ribbon cable, if you could unplug that it would be 10x easier. Talked to TM, they will send a replacement base for 150 EUR to Australia including shipping. Glue on the ribbon cable? There must've been a change in manufacturing sometime during the run. Mine (06948), and at least a few others have no glue anywhere. If you like I could have a crack at fixing your base if you covered postage to/from Brisbane.
epokha Posted May 11, 2013 Posted May 11, 2013 Glue on the ribbon cable? There must've been a change in manufacturing sometime during the run. Mine (06948), and at least a few others have no glue anywhere. If you like I could have a crack at fixing your base if you covered postage to/from Brisbane. Mine was the first batch 0400. There is also 4 wires that are glued on as well. Really made it hard. I've already purchased the new base but ill have a look at the shipping costs if you want a crack, seems a waste not to fix it :) AMD 3600X- 32GB RAM - Gigabyte Geforce RTX 2080Ti - 512GB NVme Samsung 830 256Gb 840 256Gb SSD - Track IR 4.0 + TrackClip Pro - Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog - WarBRD base mount and extention - Simped F16/USB (Stolen!) - Thrustmaster T-flight pedals (spew) DCS KA-50 Blackshark 1 & 2; DCS P-51 Mustang; DCS A-10C Warthog; DCS UH-1 Huey; DCS F-86F; DCS Mi-8MTV2; DCS Mig-21bis; DCS: AV-8b; DCS: Spitfire IX; DCS: NS430; DCS: Combined Arms; Lock On Flaming Cliffs 3; Rise of Flight; IL2:1946;
mhe Posted May 13, 2013 Posted May 13, 2013 Found the time to grease mine yesterday, used the LiquiMoly Silicon DX grease. Also found one of the 4 metal poles a bit loose, the screw obscured by the little circuit board had to be tightened. Now the stick feels better than it ever did, thanks guys! :) | i9 12900K | 64GB DDR5-6000 | STRIX RTX 4090 OC | LG 38GN950 38" | | Hanns-G HT225HPB | TIR 5 & Varjo Aero | Virpil Throttle & Stick | TM TPRs | You don't stop playing because you grow old, you grow old because you stop playing.
luckyluca Posted May 15, 2013 Posted May 15, 2013 I'm planning to grease up my warthog too and was wondering if removing the bushers is really required. What about greasing the inside ball (with the bushers still in place) from the top opening? Also any idea on anything similar to EM-30L grease available in the uk? L Simultools
Succellus Posted May 15, 2013 Posted May 15, 2013 Iwould like to know what kind of greses work as i live in Brasil and the probability of finding exactle same brand and type is maybe a bit remote. I just received metallic support and am able to restart my pit building, ETA Early September. Thank you. HaF 922, Asus rampage extreme 3 gene, I7 950 with Noctua D14, MSI gtx 460 hawk, G skill 1600 8gb, 1.5 giga samsung HD. Track IR 5, Hall sensed Cougar, Hall sensed TM RCS TM Warthog(2283), TM MFD, Saitek pro combat rudder, Cougar MFD.
Milli Posted May 15, 2013 Posted May 15, 2013 Also any idea on anything similar to EM-30L grease available in the uk? L Hi luckyluca. I just bought a pot of EM-30L grease from eBay, posted from the USA. Took about 4 or 5 days to get here to the UK. Bought this item here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270666662651?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Was very fast, simple and painless to do. Regards, Milli 1
jay43 Posted May 16, 2013 Posted May 16, 2013 I'm planning to grease up my warthog too and was wondering if removing the bushers is really required. What about greasing the inside ball (with the bushers still in place) from the top opening? Also any idea on anything similar to EM-30L grease available in the uk? L Try an RC model shop they used to do it for lubing up plastic cogs and gears. Eagles may soar high but weasel's don't get sucked into jet engines. System Spec. Monitors: Samsung 570DX & Rift CV1 Mobo: MSI Godlike gaming X-99A CPU: Intel i7 5930K @ 3.50Ghz RAM: 32gb GPU: EVGA Nvidia GTX 980Ti VR Ready Cooling: Predator 360 Power Supply: OCZ ZX Series 80 Plus Gold Drives: Samsung SSD's 1tb, 500g plus others with OS Win10 64 bit
PhoenixBvo Posted May 16, 2013 Posted May 16, 2013 (edited) Thanks tietze for your suggestion and guide and also tjhowse for your procedure write up. I ordered the Molykote EM-30L to do the re-grease operation myself. I also wanted to point people here to a thread on Warthogworld: Delamination of Anti-friction Buffer Ring. Apart from this being a related design flaw (at least in first batch Warthogs, serial 193 here), the proposed PTFE replacement ring appears to lower friction and reduce center play by itself as well. Anyway, I also ordered PTFE sheet material to do this in one go. Edited May 16, 2013 by PhoenixBvo [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] CPU i7 4970k @ 4.7 GHz RAM 16GB G.Skill TridentX 1600 ATX ASUS Z97-PRO DSU Samsung 850 PRO 256GB SSD for Win10, Plextor M6e 128GB SSD for DCS exclusively, RAID-1 HDDs GFX Aorus GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Xtreme Edition, ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q, 27" with G-Sync, Oculus Rift CV1 HID TM HOTAS Warthog + 10 cm extension, MFG Crosswind pedals, TrackIR 5, Obutto oZone My TM Warthog Profile + Chart, F-15C EM Diagram Generator
recoilfx Posted May 16, 2013 Posted May 16, 2013 Just wanted to chime in about the PTFE bufferring replacement - it didn't reduce static friction for me. As the rubber ring for me was already properly lubricated, the other sources of frictions came from the contact inside the gimbal ball, and the contacts between the four posts and the top Teflon ring. I am pretty sure that the rubber ring is there to cushion the transition flats not for anti-friction, so if you have either the OEM rubber ring removed or the PTFE ring installed, your center detent will be much stronger. So what did i do? I super glued the rubber ring. It hasn't been mangled out of place yet!
PhoenixBvo Posted May 16, 2013 Posted May 16, 2013 Thanks, that is an interesting report and view on the buffer ring's function. It makes sense to me. The problem with delamination should still be solved, so I'll try both solutions to see which one I like better in terms of feel. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] CPU i7 4970k @ 4.7 GHz RAM 16GB G.Skill TridentX 1600 ATX ASUS Z97-PRO DSU Samsung 850 PRO 256GB SSD for Win10, Plextor M6e 128GB SSD for DCS exclusively, RAID-1 HDDs GFX Aorus GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Xtreme Edition, ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q, 27" with G-Sync, Oculus Rift CV1 HID TM HOTAS Warthog + 10 cm extension, MFG Crosswind pedals, TrackIR 5, Obutto oZone My TM Warthog Profile + Chart, F-15C EM Diagram Generator
porky_pig Posted May 25, 2013 Posted May 25, 2013 (edited) Anyone having an issue with the ribbon cable binding up, you can unscrew and pull on the female connector pin that connects the stick and the ball to facilitate tautening the ribbon cable. You can insert the ball and set the pins in, and reinsert the outer hull, then push the ribbon cable through to keep it from binding up on anything internal. Didnt see anyone mention that in this thread, so I thought I would. Edited May 25, 2013 by porky_pig
luckyluca Posted May 26, 2013 Posted May 26, 2013 (edited) EDIT: sorted it was me being silly, no hardware issue at all :) Edited May 28, 2013 by luckyluca Simultools
LostOblivion Posted May 26, 2013 Posted May 26, 2013 After a few months of DCS hibernation I bought the fabolous Huey and started playing again. I bought some molykote, tried this excellent trick, and the Huey suddenly got a lot easier to hover in! Thanks! Nice plane on that gun... OS764 P930@4 MBUD3R M6GB G5870 SSDX25 CAntec1200 HTMHW
Rusty_M Posted May 26, 2013 Posted May 26, 2013 Not being familiar with this Molykote EM 30l or other plastic & metal safe synthetic greases, does anyone know of the name of a good equivalent which can be purchased in the UK (and potentially, where to get it)? The world is going mad. Me? I'm doing fine! http://www.twitch.tv/rusty_the_robot https://www.youtube.com/user/RustyRobotGaming
Milli Posted May 26, 2013 Posted May 26, 2013 Not being familiar with this Molykote EM 30l or other plastic & metal safe synthetic greases, does anyone know of the name of a good equivalent which can be purchased in the UK (and potentially, where to get it)? see my post here rusty http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1759640&postcount=57 Regards, Milli
*Rage* Posted May 26, 2013 Posted May 26, 2013 Greased mine with nyogel 767A. Great stuff. http://www.newgateonline.com/nyogel-767a-100gram-tube.html [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] 64th "Scorpions" Aggressor Squadron Discord: 64th Aggressor Squadron TS: 195.201.110.22
tietze Posted May 27, 2013 Author Posted May 27, 2013 (edited) The Nyogel is not less expensive, but also available from Micro Tools Europe (21€ for 2oz ~ 56g): http://www.micro-tools.de/en/byManufacturer/NYE/Lubricant-Grease-Nyogel-2oz-Tube.html [edit: sorry not the same quantity as the product ///Rage posted: 26£ for 3.53oz ~ 100g] Edited May 27, 2013 by tietze Please fix the KA-50 bugs :-) Black Shark: Controller profile & setup, TrackIR profile, pit. Warthog HOTAS: Lubing the stick and extending the stick. Posts on howto customize switches in DCS & . Must-have mods for DCS World and KA-50 (mostly JSGME). Casual couch pilot, watching capped.tv...
Milli Posted May 27, 2013 Posted May 27, 2013 I've greased up my warthog. All is super smooth and the centring is very precise. But I have noticed that I can twist my joystick from left to right about 3 to 5 degrees in total. It is the large outer cup part of the cup and ball joint that is moving. Is there anyway to stop this? Its not affecting my flying but its niggling at my mind lol. I cannot remember if it was like this before i greased her up. Regards, Milli
dburne Posted May 27, 2013 Posted May 27, 2013 But I have noticed that I can twist my joystick from left to right about 3 to 5 degrees in total. From all the reading I did prior to purchasing my Warthog , and after, I think this is a fairly common thing across the board. Some seem to have a little more play in it than others. Mine has a small amount of twist, probably no more than 2 degrees. And like you, I do not notice it while flying at all. Don B EVGA Z390 Dark MB | i9 9900k CPU @ 5.1 GHz | Gigabyte 4090 OC | 64 GB Corsair Vengeance 3200 MHz CL16 | Corsair H150i Pro Cooler |Virpil CM3 Stick w/ Alpha Prime Grip 200mm ext| Virpil CM3 Throttle | VPC Rotor TCS Base w/ Alpha-L Grip| Point Control V2|Varjo Aero|
Milli Posted May 28, 2013 Posted May 28, 2013 I'll leave the matter be then. Stick feels so much better after greasing it up. Highly recommended. Regards, Milli
Dave317 Posted June 5, 2013 Posted June 5, 2013 I took mine apart and greased it yesterday after it getting very slightly sticky. I was surprised to have virtually no grease at all in it. Now it's perfect and makes huey flying alot easier, well worth doing.
tietze Posted June 23, 2013 Author Posted June 23, 2013 Pin-out of the handle Hi, just saw this pin-out linked in another thread here on EDF: Link: Thread on simHQ "Warthog/Cougar Pin out information". Please fix the KA-50 bugs :-) Black Shark: Controller profile & setup, TrackIR profile, pit. Warthog HOTAS: Lubing the stick and extending the stick. Posts on howto customize switches in DCS & . Must-have mods for DCS World and KA-50 (mostly JSGME). Casual couch pilot, watching capped.tv...
Warhog Posted July 23, 2013 Posted July 23, 2013 After three months of running my Warthog without incident I finally encountered lubrication issues from all the use this thing has received. It started to stick on me all the time even to the point where I pulled the stick all the way back and it just stayed there.:shocking: So after going through all the threads about disassembly and grease types I finally went out and bought some plastic friendly grease and after an hour of farting around I finally got it back together and... it was still awful. Even with loads of grease. I tried another grease and same thing. The stickshin was getting even more pronounced. :angry: I resigned myself to ordering some of that Molycote stuff and wait a week for it but who can go a week without flying. :sad_2: So I tried one more time and this time I used something I had left over from my RC tank days...CERAMIC Grease. This is "apparently" specially formulated for plastic to cut sticking by 50% so I gave it a try. I can't say WOW loud enough:clap_2:. It is so smooth I almost had an accident in my pants. Would you like to know what it is??? Tamiaya Ceramic Grease. Yes, the same people who make plastic model kits. All hobby stores carry Tamiya products so it will be really easy to find. I just wanted to pass this alone in hopes that others won't have to go through the same crap as I did to get my stick back to normal. BTW, you don't need to use gobs of it either. Just a nice film over the ball joints, o-ring and those four posts. Regards John W aka WarHog. My Cockpit Build Pictures... My Arduino Sketches ... https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-Dc0Wd9C5l3uY-cPj1iQD3iAEHY6EuHg?usp=sharing WIN 10 Pro, i8-8700k @ 5.0ghz, ASUS Maximus x Code, 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum Ram, AIO Water Cooler, M.2 512GB NVMe, 500gb SSD, EVGA GTX 1080 ti (11gb), Sony 65” 4K Display VPC MongoosT-50, TM Warthog Throttle, TRK IR 5.0, Slaw Viper Pedals
whartsell Posted July 23, 2013 Posted July 23, 2013 After three months of running my Warthog without incident I finally encountered lubrication issues from all the use this thing has received. It started to stick on me all the time even to the point where I pulled the stick all the way back and it just stayed there.:shocking: So after going through all the threads about disassembly and grease types I finally went out and bought some plastic friendly grease and after an hour of farting around I finally got it back together and... it was still awful. Even with loads of grease. I tried another grease and same thing. The stickshin was getting even more pronounced. :angry: I resigned myself to ordering some of that Molycote stuff and wait a week for it but who can go a week without flying. :sad_2: So I tried one more time and this time I used something I had left over from my RC tank days...CERAMIC Grease. This is "apparently" specially formulated for plastic to cut sticking by 50% so I gave it a try. I can't say WOW loud enough:clap_2:. It is so smooth I almost had an accident in my pants. Would you like to know what it is??? Tamiaya Ceramic Grease. Yes, the same people who make plastic model kits. All hobby stores carry Tamiya products so it will be really easy to find. I just wanted to pass this alone in hopes that others won't have to go through the same crap as I did to get my stick back to normal. BTW, you don't need to use gobs of it either. Just a nice film over the ball joints, o-ring and those four posts. Too bad Tamiya shows it as discontinued on their site Arduino,EOS and Helios Tutorial Static ATC menu mod
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