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Paganus

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Everything posted by Paganus

  1. Damned if they do, damned if they don't. With entrenched opinions on both sides of the question, there is no way to make everyone happy. More choice is better than less. If you don't think it is correct/realistic/possible/stylish, don't load more than 2. :thumbup:
  2. You have talked yourself in a circle. No matter though. I think the OP has plenty of things to try now.
  3. In you User/"name"/Saved Games/DCS "version"/logs, there is a dcs.log file. Post it or paste it here.
  4. Hold Right Ctrl and Right Shift and a number pad key to move the position. I think you want up which would be the 8 key. When you get it where you want it Hold Right Alt and hit Number pad 0 to lock it as the default view for the session.
  5. I suspect anything capable of an AIM-9 launch could shoot a 122. As far as I know it doesn't take target info from the aircraft. It just homes on the closest emitter in its cone. I believe the program was just a way to get some use out of a stockpile of old AIM-9s though. They never purchased any new ones, just the conversions. They already had better weapons for the job.
  6. Yep, you would need to clear threats in the best sequence for your survival. Unless your plan is 1 pass and haul ass. AAA and flak have some limits to their rotation speed. Sometimes this can help you if you are not alone, or if you can make the turn around fast enough. Also, don't follow a strait line into them. This just helps them hit you. You need to sway, bob, weave, and generally keep them guessing as to where you will be. Even as good as the AI targeting is, it still needs to predict and lead to hit you.
  7. You don't need a lot of altitude or speed. Your not going to fire until your inside gun convergence range. Here's a trk. You need Normandy, WW2 pack and the P-51. P51vCM_01.trk
  8. You can one pass the APC Sd. Kfz 251. Use a steep AoA from the rear or side. Hold fire until you are too close for comfort. Fire a 2 second burst and pull out without snap rolling.:pilotfly:
  9. It's meant as a way to practice maintaining control of trim. It is not intended as a real world flight method. This is a simulation after all.
  10. On the side of the pit is a plaque with settings. After starting, force the radiator flap open for taxi and takeoff. Once airborne, and stable pull back the throttle, keep the nose down, and check the coolant temp. After it drops safely back into the green, as you gain speed, you can push the throttle. Keep one eye on the coolant at all times. Check the oil temp also but it's not as sensitive. The radiator and oil cooler flaps can be manually operated or put on auto. If you use auto, you need to keep in mind there is a bit of lag as it reacts to the temps. speed = cool If you get slow you get hot.
  11. Warbirds require constant trimming until you establish cruise conditions. If you think the Stang is bad, the Jug is worse. Remember these are not just any airplanes. They are overpowered beasts. In the P-51, never fly with all tanks full, unless you plan to be in the air a very long time. The 3rd tank behind the seat causes a center of gravity issue, and should not be used unless you really need the range. Always start, taxi, and takeoff on the left wing tank. It is where the fuel return is so you need to make a little space there. If you are using the 3rd tank, switch to it once in the air, and drain it fully. After that, alternate from wing to wing. You don't have to switch a lot. The balance isn't really what is driving the need to trim. I doubt I ever switch more than 3 times. Setup trim controls that are fast, and easy to access. You will be using them constantly. Trim the rudder to the ball before trimming the ailerons. Trim pitch as needed. A good way to practice is to fly with just trim. Get stable in the air, and then try to control your flight without using the stick. This capability can really help later when flying heavy loadouts. Good Luck!
  12. They just don't post much on this forum. They are pretty active on FB. Here is their last pic of the week...
  13. About 10 miles.
  14. New clouds would be welcome. but... They can't kill performance. and... They need to be in the same positions in multiplayer games.
  15. The updater can be used to switch versions without needing to move the installs. https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=114030
  16. You proclaim the right to freely post what you want to say, while decrying what others post. Perhaps IRONY would have been a better callsign than EXPERT.:thumbup:
  17. Since the Open Beta versions have been getting groomed more before release, I suspect it will be a short wait. OR You can run this command line from the folder where the updater lives to switch your install; DCS_updater.exe update @openbeta
  18. LOL I don't think a transplant is required. More like a "Hey boss, how does this sound?":thumbup:
  19. I'm not qualified to determine if it's correct or not, but ED's CEO has flown one, so they have access to a person that should know. They are amazingly quiet in the few cockpit videos out there, with sound. It's still early access so I suspect the current sounds, and levels are not final.
  20. It's really too old to update properly, but if I had no choice... RAM - a match pair of 8GB DD3 1333 sticks - As far as I know, that's the best/maximum that mainboard can handle. What you have now, I would bet your last dollar on, is a pair of 4GB. Since the mainboard only has 2 slots, you need 2, 8's just to get to 16GB. Video - The best 8GB VRAM card you can afford, that will fit on that mainboard. SSD - SATA type - without a solid state drive load times will never improve. Go with at least a 480GB. A full DCS install with all maps is over 200GB with more on the way. It would be nice to get Windows running on it, but that's another story. CPU - I'll leave that to someone better informed. According to the mainboard maker it supports, 45nm AMD AM3 Phenom II/ Athlon II processors. The RAM and CPU are both old tech at this point, and might be purchased used, if you dare. New hardware often requires a new power supply if the current one isn't high enough output, or has aged badly. Good luck!
  21. I'm sorry to say your rig is under powered for DCS currently. The CPU @ 3.8GHz is ok. 8GB of RAM is the bare minimum. Small simple missions only, for sure. The R7 200 GPU is below minimum spec. The 2GB of VRAM it has is a big time bottleneck. I suspect you have a spinner hard drive instead of a SSD which doesn't help. Thus the long load times. You will need to run low graphics settings. A fixed page file might help. This thread explains doing it. https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3724175&postcount=1 I wish I had better news for you. Based on the age of the rig and the number of things that need improving, I wouldn't upgrade the current machine. Time for a new one.
  22. I saw your other thread. sorry it's been such a pain. Edit your post above and attach a copy of your C:\Users\<yourname>\Saved Games\DCS World\Logs\dcs.log after a crash. The log won't help much to solve bad performance. Only after the crash. For that, you can attach a picture of your options screen on the system tab. (click the gear icon at the top of the 1st in game screen) Since we don't know anything about your pc a dxdiag file will also help. You can follow this link to see how to do it. https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4028644/windows-open-and-run-dxdiagexe While you wait for replies, in the Windows start menu, an Eagle Dynamics section was created. There you will find a "repair DCS World" program. Run it to make sure your stop and start install didn't create an issue.
  23. You didn't mention the supercharger in your checklist.
  24. It's possible already with skins. It's not easy to do currently, and the ability for others to see it requires skin file sharing in advance. Making an easy automated functionality for this is a tricky proposition. These customizations would have to be shared on pilot entry to a server, potentially causing lag, corruption, cheats, and other issues. Then there's the issue of inappropriate content.
  25. The tail wheel is controlled by stick position. Holding it aft of neutral locks it into a 6 degree limitation. Pushing the stick full forward will unlock it. It can bind sometimes requiring a bit of a dance to free it.
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