DDSSTT

Yes it will work. Wire B1 + Ground, B2. 2 Input and a single ground. If the second ON needs a ground too, then split the ground between B1/B2.

I've decided to get their current Pro Kit and areas I feel need strengthening, I was going to use the wood. Since the 10 mm thick Coreflute PVC board will serve as a very good template for wood.

I had the pressure of exchanging emails with Lukas Homola, the owner of http://www.dogfightboss.com. As I was getting ready to place an order with them, he informed me, that they are working on an all metal (Aluminum) sectioned version of the F/A-18C & E models with the C model being directly modeled after our DCS version. They are trying very hard to get their product released by the end of January. He was kind enough to send me links to the work-in-progress pictures and they are striving to create to most accurate cockpit available. They are also working on creating a turn-key solution where the cockpit comes completely wired with all switches and buttons. I do have a copy of the tentative prices for each item but I will not share those here, you should contact Lukas for the cost as they could change. Here are 2 links to the photos: Gallery new build with previous versions of F-18 Gallery of our instrument panels

Thanks for the post Wags, can you tell us anything about the Hornet stick like how many buttons, how much further forward does it sit that the Warthog stick?

Yes and kinda no... Once you have your TACAN programmed, you have to hold the course switch for 3 seconds, and then you will get the option to use the UFC.

Awesome!!! Thanks! Ordered!

You modified the "MDG_strokesDefs.lua" for the sharpness by changing the stroke_thickness/fuzziness to a smaller value, didn't you. If yes, then that is the reason. I noticed for VR that the HMD is about half as "thick" or "visible" as the HUD and sharpening the HUD/DDIs adversely affected the HMD.

That section of the DDI is reserved for cautions and warnings. There is a black strip across the entire bottom. Also, this was brought up a few times in the past and Wags covers it in one of the hornet training videos. If you want more info on it, you can find it in the NATOPS under 2.20.3.2.1... here is the paragraph... "2.20.3.2.1 Caution/Advisory Indications. Cautions and advisories are displayed on the left DDI except when the left DDI is used for BIT display or weapon video (figure 2-45). When the left DDI is off or failed, or when the LDDI is used for BIT or weapon video, cautions and advisories are displayed on the center display. If the left and center displays fail or are turned off, the right DDI displays the cautions and advisories. With MC OFP 13C AND UP, cautions and advisories automatically move to the center display when BIT is selected on the LDDI. Caution displays appear as 150%-size letters compared to the normal message symbology size." I hope that helps you.

This is going to make slewing the AGM-65Fs in tomorrows F18 update so much easier than the stock mouse nub!

Yes that you are considering it... If I can drill out to a larger size then I'll get those. Wasn't sure if that would work or not. Thank you!

YES!!! Thank you Deadman! I am already planning an order for 11x 1tl1-1 & 5x Eaton... I was going to order some of your knobs but they said 3mm shaft? They are not going to fit the potentiometers or my encoders... :(

no, it kinda breaks the HMD... decreasing the blurriness and sharpening the HUD/DDIs also decreases the visual clarity of the HMD... You can still mess with the "DMC" values in the MDG_strokesDefs.lua to make it easier to read the text on the AMPCD though, but if you want a sharp crisp DDIs and HUD you will have to live with a hard to read HMD... I am still looking at ways to change it but so far no luck.

Heck if Deadman can run some batches that'll be great!!! They have almost all of them and they also have the measurements... http://www.ehcknobs.com/index.php?id=TM Deadman if you read this, I attached the knobs I'd like, I see you already have some in your shop and I'd like to place an order when you are able!!!

Another thing you could try, is to go into windows game controllers and select advanced for the TRPs and make them the preferred device. that should move them to the top of the list of game controllers dcs recognizes first. at least thats my understanding of it...

I am looking to replace the standard type knobs with the correct kind for my work in progress pit... see picture below... I've been looking all over and found a few places that have knobs like the real ones but either they are out of stock or only sell large orders because they have to make them... Does anyone here have the ability to make them or know some place that will make a small personal order? I fly in VR so even unfinished 3D prints are fine... Here is the list of Knobs: Rudder Trim (does not need a push button) (.250/6.35mm Knurled Shaft) Formation & Position Lights (once my ThrottleTek 18 arrives early next year)(.250/6.35mm Knurled Shaft) Select Jett (solid, using a push button encoder)(.250 Smooth Shaft) Console, Instrument, Flood, & Warning/Caution Lights (.250/6.35mm Knurled Shaft) Radar and INS (.250/6.35mm D-Shaft) Bleed air would be a nice to have... Thanks guys!

Had problems like that too...mine was caused by having too many joysticks installed that were not being used anymore... The only way I was able to fix that problem was to delete them from the registry. This can really **** up your system if you are not careful!!! How I did it was to open RegEdit in start, run... Then navigate to HKEY_CURRENT_USER/System/CurrentControlSet/Control/MediaProperties/Joystick/OEM There you will probably see a bunch of "VID_..." Basically delete all the ones that dont have an OEMName...

http://pcflights.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=61&products_id=273 Similar... I think is the air temp control knob... but I dont see why you could glue the top one to the bottom and it should work...

I think I found it... https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Grayhill/25LB45-Q?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsWp46O%252bq11WX9topLpsItZG2yf5eWl3GQ%3d

I guess I am not understanding the wiring.

Yeah, I was looking at that, but I only have 3 button slots left on my BBI-64 card and would have to buy another card for that switch.

Does anyone know where I can find a good 8 detent rotary encoder? I am not electric savoy and mouser has a few but I need to find one like this: http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=98_75&products_id=191 I know how to wire that, but the only ones I can find have like 10 pins and seem to be more a rotary switch than an encoder.

Yeah, I ordered mine in October with Hall-effects and two 4 way hats.. hoping to get it by the new year.. I see Roberto wasn't able to increase the size of the finger lifts... looks like a job for JB Weld Epoxy Putty... :)

It doesn't because its a mini joystick and not a force sensor.

captfltby, where are your basestations setup? one in front of you like trackIR or off to your right/left like the VR setup instructions? Trying to make sure I understand you because I might have to have some adjustments on my end.

Awesome, hopefully that will solve my problem too!! :thumbup: