Sokol1_br

Alternative, replace TWCS antenna pot, probable is this model (used in T.16000M twist axis): https://br.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CTS-Electronic-Components/251B12T104A2NB/?qs=6E8igxPflKdliaNMymwp6A%3D%3D

You see Bu0836A description? 8 analog inputs with 12-bit (4096 steps) resolution each - there you can connect pot, analog contact less sensors (e.g. Hall sensor). 32 button / 16 rotary encoder inputs -there connect press buttons, toggle switch (latching or momentary) and encoder, each encoder take 2 buttons position. So if use 16 encoders, can't use any button. 8-way "point-of-view" hat switch input - can use pins reserved for HAT for wire 4 individual buttons.

Deskmout was sent only for "beta testers" "Official announcement" came latter.

This mechanism looks more the the old "pincers" gimbal - like the one used now in TPR, in early VKB, Baur gimbals, old sticks like CH, early Thrustmaster... than CAM gimbal.

"The mother of all deskmounts". :D

"Improvements and new manufacturer techniques", let's hope that not with another grip/base connector type. :)

Nothing much details too see in this "unboxing" video, other than thing exist. ;)

Someone get this? cV5nahASY3k

Saw this ?

And MiG-15, MiG-19. ;)

Manual for each plane or Chuck guides. BTW - Different aircraft may use different name for same control. :)

Nope, looks like that since Saitek's are "disposable" no one care in find a replacement solution for their "so, so" pot's. :) One by one replacement a Hall is not available, but you can DIY a solution, probable need operate with linkage (like R/C) since levers is very close. Anyway talk to Rel4y, he are able to make one: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916

For $200 - staying away from Saitek QC quirks, an "HOTAS": Gladiator Mk.II ~$85 (PRO: contacless sensor in X,Y and twist axes - CON: limited buttons on grip) Thrustmaster TWCS throttle ~$ 80 (PRO: analog mini-stick - CON(?): single engine throttle) Stick only Gladiator Mk.II ~$85 + SCG grip upgrade $100 = $ 185 - Nothing better for this price.

For those that don't visit specific sub-foruns. Vote there: https://forum.virpil.com/index.php?/forum/20-control-panel-community-design-competition/ Samples of submitted drawings: Jets Warbirds/GA Helicopters https://forum.virpil.com/uploads/monthly_2019_10/1139273829__3.thumb.jpg.5b597ae852632d4d476e3cd64a782ab0.jpg "Cosmoships"

I have both Gladiator Mk.II and T.16000M, some thoughts: For me Gladiator KG-12A grip (3 buttons + POV HAT) has better functionality than T.16000M grip (4 buttons + POV HAT) because Gladiator has "pinky" button, that used as shift" give me more 2 virtual buttons plus 4 way virtual HAT. Twice if use Mode 2. Gimbal and sensor in Gladiator Mk.II is better than in T.16000M - could be that in Javelin (OEM version) they are downgraded for lower costs. OK, the above is matter of personal preference, so let's consider the practical aspects: T.16000M has 12 buttons on base (6 in each side) plus 4 on grip plus POV HAT. Gladiator has 13 buttons on base plus 3 on grip plus POV HAT. So the "mass of buttons" is not the same? You will not just exchanging "six by half dozen"? :) You can easily improve T.16000M grip installing a "pinky" button for use as "shift" (like in Gladiator). Since their USB controller don't handle additional buttons, wire this button in parallel to one of base in right side (awkward to use). In the same way can add more buttons in grip "cloning" base buttons. Example: https://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/uploads/monthly_08_2015/post-683-0-56808800-1439970591.jpg A "cloned" button will work in grip and/or in base, as you wish. From technical point of view, T.16000M gimbal - compression spring ball, with one sensor for both axis is very different from Gladiator two springs "cardan" with one sensor per axis. T.16000M gimbal is formed by upper and lower base case parts, you can't transplant this gimbal for Gladiator base, although can easily remove Gladiator gimbal from their base leaving a empty space, since is modular. Ending need transplant parts of T.16000M base from inside Gladiator base - if are the needed space. Ironically the inverse operation - Gladiator gimbal in T.16000M base will be more easy to do, since is modular. For DIY nothing is impossible, but need consider if the amount of modifications and work justify eventual benefit. I think in suggest make both grip removable (like Warthog/VPC grips) and use one or another in T.16000M base, but this implicate in loose twist axes.

I think that Gladiator PRO was discontinued for good. Although VKB PR give a elusive answer when asked about. :)

You need look in backside of throttle PCB, if the resistor is used, is there. Do you have a multimeter, or you can borrow one?

Gladiator Mk.II KG-12A grip is too limited for use in "jets": Is just two buttons + POV HAT - this placed in the most awkward position in any stick until now, that associated with pink (shift) button allow you use more 6 "virtual" buttons (plus + 6 in mode 2). If you use with X-55 throttle, the (13) buttons in Gladiator base will have little use in flight. Gladiator Mk. II gimbal is "clone" of CH gimbal (a kind of U-Join), but improved with grooves in pivot axes and damper grease, what minimize the spring back effect and make the center "clunck" of this gimbal mechanics less noticeable. Anyway, Gladiator biggest plus is the contact less sensor (VKB MaRS) in X, Y and twist axes, and ARM32 USB controller. CH still using potentiometer, that soon or latter cause Besides the 'X' upgrade ($100-$140) an DIY person can improve their grip with 3D printer parts, adding HAT ans buttons since since their controller (theoretically) support up to 120 buttons, are some examples in VKB forum. Then if your budget is limited to $100 Gladiator is your best option. No, the 'X' upgrade, announced a more than year only recently became available - for USA and Russian market, for EU still "coming soon™". ;)

I've installed a DIY (aluminum) paddle in two CH's (Fightestick and Combatstick), and the issue is the big angle of movement of grip. A conventional paddle, F-16/Warthog like will collide with stick base. Need a angled lever, that looks "weird but" result functional. For more buttons, if will install a new USB controller (10/12 bits), increase buttons is matter of find placement for then, as the new controller allow at least 32 (12 more than CH controller). If want keep CH USB controller the only way I see - for more two buttons, is use throttle axis divided in two bands with resistors, but this require use a keymapper software with "axis to button" to make this axis band send keypress. An dual trigger is very easy to implement, is matter to add a second micro-switch under the trigger lever.

Consider: Difficult will see VKB F-14 grip before Q3/4 of 2020. Correct, you need buy a complete stick from VRB, the most affordable option is Gunfighter base with KG-12A grip - around $45 less than the next option, with SCG Kosmosima grip (that include twist axis). You can use Warthog and F-18 AddOn grip on VKB Gunfighter base, if... are able to buy the electronic/mechanic adapter need for this. This "soon" in the red text of link don't mean exactly... soon. :)

Get Gladiator Mk.II ($85) and (or after) the "X" Upgrade with SCG grip ($100) or SCG Premium ($140), what will beat any other stick in this price range ($185 - 225), with contacless sensor in X,Y and twist axes. If you have no issues for fix a X-55 throttle, can consider (if wife will not beat you): :) Get a used CH FigtherStick (due their 20 buttons) and 3D Print a CAM gimbal, for get rid of their "clunck" gimbal and replace their (obsolete) electronics/pot with Arduino + MMjoy2 and TLE5011 contacless sensor. Probable ending cost $150/200 but again beat any commercial option by the same price.

Probable your axes problem is not in the throttle - components there are all passive, but in interface cable to joy base or in the joy USB controller. Can check interface cable connectivity with a multimeter (continuity mode) checking pin by pin. A broken Power of Gnd wire or pin will make all TQS axis stop to send signal. Can test Antenna, Range pot with multimeter in resistance mode, measuring between middle and one side pin, should read around 100k.

"Quod abundat non nocere", go for the second option.

The "advantage" of this thumbstick is be mounted in a PCB - but this became a disadvantage for fit inside a joystick due the big footprint in PCB. Since is a ordinary analog thumbstick will work with L.Bodnar or any joystick controller with analog inputs.

Logitech (now Saitek brand owner) announced that that make a "new" x-56 (the black/gray), see there: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=202785 But in the topic are people complaining about the same old issues (soft "quirks", ghost buttons...)