Headwarp

NP. hope it sorts you out. if not there are a couple other things to look at before I'd feel stumped.

are you running any mods? IF so - i recommend using OVGME or JSGME and to always disable the mods before applying an update. It makes life easier. You should be able to run DCS repair from the start menu under Eagle Dynamics but if it's not there you can open Command Prompt as admin, by typing "CMD" in cortana and right clicking the command prompt option that shows up, and clicking "run as administrator". From there you can navigate to your dcs install directory, hopefully you know where it is To change drive letters, for example from the directory CMD prompt opens to your drive labeled "D:" you simply type "D:" without the quotes into command prompt and hit enter. You can then check whats in your current folder by typing "DIR" without the quotes, and change to a folder within the folder you're currently browsing by typing "CD foldername" without the quotes and pressing enter. Also you can navigate to a specific folder if you know where you installed it.. Using my install for an example it's E:\games\DCS World Openbeta\ So I would type E: and press enter, From there I could type cd games\dcs world openbeta\bin\ Now within the above directory you can type "dcs_updater.exe cleanup" to clear any files from mods or files left behind, and also "dcs_updater.exe repair" without the quotes which should verify your installation as well as visual C++ files. Also, just using the regular windows explorer browser, you can go to your installation directory and look for a folder called "distr", another folder within called "DirectX" and run dxsetup.exe from within just to ensure everythings correct with your directx installation. Your installation directory will be different from mine, but hopefully if you aren't fluent in MS-DOS I've helped you navigate there. I'd try this before a fresh install. If you already knew all this sorry i just have no way of knowing your level of experience. If this is still happening after doing all this I'd say there's more troubleshooting to do. Or maybe it's just a matter of supersampling being too high.

When's the last time you went to your motherboard manufacturer's website to check for updated drivers/bios for your motherboard? As well as windows updates..nvidia drivers and what not. That's not a shot at you.. just.. step one in troubleshooting. Also, have you tried a dcs repair?

Any reason you'd rather not go into your windows power settings and stop the TV from shutting off while you're gaming? Your circumstances may differ from mine, but I fly MP a lot and some servers have websites associated with them..as well as wingmates hollaring on discord. My monitor stays on while the headset is on. Thus I can't say I've run into your particular issue. but sometimes I'll launch WMR/SteamVR and my displays are black, but only when first launching the software. Closing VR software and restarting it usually fixes that. As far as steamVR closing.. the Mixed Reality portal will shutdown if you're idle and it does close steamvr.. I usually just close and restart the software if I'm going to put the headset back on after being afk for 10-15 minutes. Doesn't seem to be any way to stop the idle sleep mode for the HMD in windows settings. But you should be able to wake it up and resume from the mixed reality portal. I personally prefer to close the mixed reality portal and launch steamVR to bypass loading the cliffhouse in to memory.

As insane people though we have really nice toys.

... as a man who's never owned a sewing machine....but has memory of them at the folk's house.. adding some straps to alleviate the weight of the headset sounds freaking awesome. Aside from the IPD roller, also be sure to align the headset vertically on your face for the clearest picture. At least in the original odyssey the sweetspot in the lenses is very small and I have to angle the headset a certain way for my pupils to be aligned with them vertically. The "walleye" effect after taking the headset was there for me too when I first started using the Odyssey but over time I don't even notice it when I take it off anymore. Hasn't permenantly effected my vision. I did start asking google some questions when I noticed it, which led me to the impression that real life pilots are grounded for a few days after a VR simulation exercise due to this. Unsure in the truth of that.. but I think after spending enough hours in it your eyes will start to adjust faster when putting it on or taking it off. Personally I leave steamVR sliders at 100% and use the in game pixel density setting. Also in steam/steamapps/common/mixedrealityVRdriver/resources/settings/ there's a file called default.vrsettings which you can edit with notepad and delete two // to enable motion reprojection for smooth gameplay when you can't maintain 90fps.

Make sure ASW or whatever Occulus uses is on..should help with the nausea. With my odyssey I got a little woozy once or twice but got used to it. And congratz on your rift. Pretty much the way I felt when if first got my Odyssey, except I probably flew for many hours that night. Landing in the huey gets my stomach every time.. and when I come to a stop in a taildragger, my whole body lurches forward like I slammed on the brakes in a car. "You got me VR... you got me."

they make hdmi to dp vice versa adapters. On my old gpu the HDMI port didn't work. I had to find an active dp 1.2 to hdmi 2.0 adapter for my Odyssey. I had to specifically look for "active dp 1.2 to hdmi" as another DP to HDMI adapter limited my headset to 60fps. was a 9 series card. 10 series or newer uses DP 1.4 I'm pretty sure. I think the active adapter was like $10 on amazon.

Solution, dress like an eskimo and use the power of air conditioning to get your ambient temps to the 40's or lower.

I'm all for lifelike and awesome looking clouds, as long as it doesn't tax hardware too much :P Certain settings with clouds even with the current weather engine can cause stuttering for me, and there's not much out there in the way of hardware improvement for me at this point. 2.5 was a big jump from 1.5 in regards of performance, let's hope vulkan adds more headroom in that regard.

I think flight simming and racing sims are going to be where VR finds the highest adoption rates. The statement is appreciated. I have to say, at least for me it does help keep things on the side of eagerness rather than impatience with the way you guys have been making clear statements of features that are being worked on even if you can't go into the finer details until said features are near completion.

I would definitely go for a i5 K series over an i7 non K. I get overclocking is not everyone's thing.. but 8th and 9th gen chips can be overclocked with relative ease if you're not trying to push 5ghz or higher. I never thought I'd get in to overclocking until I tried it with my i5 2500k and found out how easy it is to get some extra performance out of the CPU. 8th gen or newer should easily be able to do 4.7-4.9ghz. Just google your motherboard for bios settings and then set multiplier.. set vcore of 1.3. Stress test.. if all is good, lower vcore to 1.275, If still good, try 1.250, when it becomes unstable, increase vcore by .005 until you can run stress testing software without any freezes or crashes. Aim for like 75C average temps under full load. 80C is ok. 85C is still safe but pushing it close to TJmax. TJmax is well below the threshold of physical damage and will shut down your CPU if you hit it. With guides all over the internet, it's honestly pretty hard to mess things to a point you can't recover from. Anyway - I won't keep nudging. But it's honestly pretty easy to accomplish a decent OC with today's hardware. Don't even worry about delidding, unless you want to go for 5ghz or higher, which I've been content with less than 5ghz personally.

Do you have custom fan curves set for your GPU? I have mine set to be at 100% by 45C using EVGA Precision x1, you can also set custom fan curves in msi afterburner. My card sounds like a quiet vacuum cleaner when I'm gaming but it stays pretty cool. Backplates can get a little warm.. but 60C shouldn't hurt your GPU. It might throttle down slightly at that point thouugh. 55C shouldn't kill your ram either, but that doesn't mean there isn't a faulty memory module in need of an RMA or replacement. Did you try re-seating the ram to be sure nothing to jiggled loose inside?

Very likely tbh. my z370 board is still getting driver updates at the very least. Still.. unless you're planning on hanging onto or selling or giving away the 4670K, I'd see how fast I could get it and see what results you get with the 1060. If you end up with a K series cpu again in the future, the experience of OC'ing the 4670K also helps you gain some confidence with overclocking, when you follow the right steps. It's free performance one way or the other. I've not run into anyone thus far who's had an issue getting 4.7-4.9ghz out of their 8700K's. As long as you research, find a guide, it's unlikely you'll damage anything. That 4670K will easily get above 4ghz. Again though, do it how you will. Be sure your PSU is up to the task of it as well.

I switched to an h100 for my current PC build and am sold..will never go back to air cooling a cpu. 240mm AIO unit will give you some headroom for overclocking, and keep those hex and octa core cpu's in check. afaik most of them are compatible with any intel socket. ALthough you need access to the back of the motherboard to install the bracket. Can run the radiator and fans as front intake or top exhaust. Exhaust being the better option in theory, but either works as long as the fans can grab air and get it flowing in the right direction. I don't have the motivation to build and maintain a custom loop.. but my AIO has been solid. my i5 2500k was pushing 4.5ghz on air but temps were higher than I'd have liked. I probably could've gone higher with an AIO. But I built a new system before trying one out.

Precisely why I added another 16GB of ram to my system when I did. No sense not to have at least 32GB with all this beef in my case.

Hehe that 2080Ti will still be CPU limited @ 5ghz on an 8th or 9th gen chip in VR. I find the resolution it takes to be gpu limited is too high to maintain 45fps. (in VR.) Still.. I think the OP should be quite surprised at the performance benefit of going from 3.4ghz to 4.5+ghz. And he's not looking to spend the kind of money for a gpu quite so hungry for cpu cycles. In the long run he might want to upgrade both. And imo it's easier to spread out the cost of 3 parts like cpu/mainboard/ram over time than the cost of a decent GPU atm. >.< In my case.. I was GPU limited already when going from the 2500K to 8700K due to my monitor's resolution and gpu at the time. So here's more food for thought for the OP. Start with the liquid cooler and an overclock. Make decisions based on those results. Watch CPU usage per core and GPU usage, try with and without SSAA and keep watching CPU/GPU usage. You may even end up happy with simply the clockspeed increase. MSI Afterburner will answer your needs better than we can in a forum. If you see any CPU cores hitting 99% and gpu usage dropping you're cpu limited, and higher CPU clock frequency/more recent cpu architecture = more performance. If you're GPU is running at 99%, and your cpu isn't reaching such on any core, you have room for a more powerful GPU. And bottlenecks are specific to the program you're measuring performance for, as well as display resolution. It can all change with one piece of hardware. 8th and 9th gen intels will overclock to higher speeds, which will likely benefit performance of the 1060 @1080P. But for anything beyond 1080P, including VR headsets i'd imagine that 1060 will leave something to be desired. So grain of salt and all, I won't tell you what to buy but I hope I've given you enough information to feel comfortable about making a decision. it's all up to you and where you'd like to go with it in the future. The CPU upgrade and 32GB of ram might be all you want if you're content with 1080P. But the entry barrier to DCS VR is down to $99 for a WMR headset without controllers. Nvidia's working on compatibility with freesync, or in other words less expensive high refresh rate monitors. You have options ;) Most I have without having your system in my possession to examine is guesswork.

I love my monitor. The only real caveat is it likes GPU power. When I got it 980Ti was pretty much the best option and the card was just barely enough for it. 2080Ti is almost too much for it, but kind of right in the sweet spot. IN DCS with the monitor I can see CPU cores hitting 99% but gpu usage stays above 97%. With my settings getting like 70-80 fps minimum.

Had a bad experience with express install of 417.71 from 417.35. DDU and try again, let us know ;)

WD Blacks slated for 1/31. Samsung's like No Wai, we were the best at something. We aren't losing that spot. hehe.

soo Bitmaster's right 417.75 is up @ Guru3D.. but it was mostly related to a flickering on the main display caused by HDMI being used for a secondary display from what i read. I installed since I have a monitor and my HMD. Still, nah never really had issues with g-sync simply because of the monitor going to sleep. Plenty of times where g-sync has been broken with a windows update or a flaky driver update however. Don't drive yourself nutty hehe. 417.71 and 417.75 are the first two drivers to touch freesync. I'd post your experiences on that public spreadsheet and hope nvidia sees it and fixes it in future updates.

My reasoning is this.. you can probably get that CPU to 4.5-4.6ghz, at which point you wont be far off from the increase you'd see with an 8th gen cpu. Where as both overclocking that CPU and upgrading the GPU should offer a rather significant performance/eye candy increase and you can upgrade the rest of the PC over time rather than spend one large chunk at once. A 2070 sits right between 1080 and 1080Ti performance for around $500 USD. Just my 2 cents. do with it what you will. going from an i5 2500k @4.5ghz to an 8700k @4.7ghz by itself didn't offer much in the way of improvement. Going from a 980Ti to my current gpu made a huge difference. And it opens up the door for higher resolution monitors, VR, or enabling SSAA for you. I honestly haven't noticed much difference between 16GB vs 32GB of ram, but 104th is one of those "large missions" eagle dynamics recommends 32GB for, I was flying it and DDCS and blueflag with 16GB. But dat gpu upgrade bro. 2070 + liquid cooler + another 16GB of ram sounds about right for your budget, and imo will offer you more than a new chipset and cpu. (if your slots are already maxed out @16GB, unfortunately that does make things a bit expensive, although ddr3 listed @ about $170-$200 USD for 32gb of ddr3 1600mhz) P.S> Even if you don't follow my advice.. i'd advise a good liquid cooler over air anyday. 4.9ghz on my 8700K @75C average under full load using corsair h100. Still true after running this pc 24/7 for over a year using the thermal pad that came on the cooler. Although worth considering a small 20mm or 40mm fan to put some airflow directly over VRM's if overclocking. Frankly, I've neglected the extra fan and I haven't seen my VRMs hit temps I would consider critical. If you're running at 1080P, I'd guess you might see performance gains with cpu clockspeed increases alone as it stands without having to buy anything more than a 240mm AIO unit. There's surely a guide on google for overclocking your specific mobo/CPU. And while unlikely, if you do more harm than good, well you've already priced out your new system.. and you have a 240mm AIO unit to cool it. Just buy some thermal paste with the new parts. :) If all goes well, you have $$$ left over for a GPU and more ram, should feel like a new rig. Also you don't mention if you're using an HDD Or SSD, the latter being a definite yes if you're not already running dcs off one.

At what pixel density setting though? I like being able to read gauges. hehe.

IMO - invest in liquid cooler like corshair h100, h110, overclock your 4670k and put the rest of that $900 into a better gpu. It can easily cost a grand just for a new cpu/mobo/32gb of ram.

I have one of these posted to the left of my throttle. Logitech G13. The thumbstick can act as a joystick, or you can map it to keybinds. Every key on the g13 can be mapped to keyboard strokes. Afaik DCS will see inputs from two different keyboards as one keyboard input. Could be mistaken, but with the use of modifiers (default modifiers are lcrtrl, rctrl, lshift, rshift, lwin, rwin) you can have a pretty much endless amount of keyboard commands, making something with reprogrammable keys like the g13 pretty nifty. Personally I just assign the default keystrokes to the keys I want to use on the g13 using LGS. Works excellent as a button box.. might take some muscle memory development but my hand is pretty comfortable finding my way around it without having to remove my HMD. My Ka-50 setup using this involves using the keyboard numpad for the countermeasures panel, and the g13 as the weapon targeting panel, home-pgdn keys above the arrow keys as the auto-pilot panel. Pretty awesome. In most other aircraft I mainly use it for an easy place to put something like the landing gear or whatever else I don't have room on the hotas for. In another sim I fly in I assign keystrokes for radiators/cowl flaps to the thumbstick. In the viggen I use it for the radar stick. Can create and switch between as many profiles as you want to set up, and each has the potential for 3 bindings per key using the m1-m3 buttons. The g4, g10, g11, and g12 keys have circle indents for a tactile feel of where you are on the g13 (same shape as WASD or arrow keys with an indent), which might help with a left handed numpad. I have used the keyboard numpad for the Harrier and Hornet UFC numpad. Don't mind my old ugly pc there >.<