Mt5_Roie

There is a Facebook group called "DCS: JU-87D-5/G-2" that keeps the pictures up to date.

Glad you figured it out. Been flying (literally) the last two days and haven't been responding as much.

So what does this actually do?

Thats the SAS system working. It will be toned down a bit after feedback from the real pilots.

Trying to find the manual for this now. Wonder if they ever had a person in a chopper just pointing out targets.

Now if we can teach the lasers to change the laser code so we can laz targets for the A-10C that would even be better.

I'll make some phone calls and see what I can do. Maybe we can make you honarary tester for a day or two.

Nice one guys...keep em coming.

I"m still trying to get the specs on Shark with Lasers I hear they use....

Interesting thread guys. Might want to suggest these get added to future versions in the enhancement thread. Keep up the good work guys.

Well put.

Please fill out the template from: http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2780295&postcount=1 This will help us narrow down the problem better and hopefully find a solutioon.

Also, might have gotten more results if you post in the Bug Report section and fill out the template from here: http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2780295&postcount=1 Without the information it's hard to determine what is wrong.

We don't get ED update schedules. We just upload the files for the next update and they are pushed out when ED updates that version next.

Just curios to what made you choose 35cm for the extension size. I think the biggest one I've seen on a thrustmaster is 20 cm. As for the FM, we are tweaking it based on conversations with real Gazelle pilots. Our goal is to make the FM as realistic as possible, and we will continue to do so. Since nobody at home has the actual Gazelle inputs, adjustments might need to be made to mimic the real inputs with your joysticks. I don't have an extension on my thrustmaster yet,but I fly pretty much with no curves and can fly along fine. But with other helicopters, I have to add curves and make adjustments to make it flyable for me. To summarize: FM: getting tweaked to make more realistc Inputs: Unless you own a Gazelle, inputs will need to be adjusted to match real gazelle characteristics Gun and Rockets: Coming soon! Dan Quale: Still gaining acceptance.

It's fairly high on our list of things to add. We are in the process of obtaining some Force Feedback joysticks for testings the code changes in order to make it work. Since some of our members are in different countries - shipping times may be a big longer. So bear with us.

Glad you solved your problem. But I would also agree that a hotas and pedals would be better suited for the Gazelle. Your talking to a guy who's owned 3 Logitech 3d Pros in his lifetime. The only reason I have to replace them is because the damn can keeps chewing on the cord. I finally keep my latest one in its box until I need it. I mainly use it for testing when I'm not in my cockpit. It's a great joystick overall....I just can't imagine how well you'd be able to fly the Gazelle with it. Maybe I'll try that this weekend and see how I fair.

Step 19 you flipped up the roll, pitch, and yaw...but you also need to flip up the main AP switch all the way on the left. Otherwise you'll still have the AP warning light on.

<cough> Enhancement thread </cough> Sorry...little dusty here today.

Will check it out.

You must be this tall to fly the Gazelle.....lol. I'll check out the track.

I just flew a 40 minute flight and went into hover about 5 times....I use about half right rudder to get out of it in a steady motion. I have no curves on my setup.

Yeah great video....even though I don't have a X55.

Usually yes. Because what it keeps it at, and what you need to maintain it can change when you disengage. So thats why I usually apply more collective so I don't drop and if I start to yaw left I apply more right rudder. But I never let it get to the point where it goes crazy and I crash. As for deadzones, I had my X52 set it about 5-10 as well since it was an old stick and couldn't center well. But I still managed to get out of auto hover without dying. Just need to put the controls in the right place.

When you disengage the auto-hover, where is your stick and pedal at that time? Usually what I do is look at the control indicator and match my rudder and stick to what it has in a hover before a disengage. Because if you disengage with no rudder, then you'll go spinning and crash. Now being a fellow Oculus user myself, I know you can't have the control indicator visible, so this makes it a bit trickier. So before you disengage the auto-hover, make sure you have right rudder (usually about half) and pull the collective a little higher so you'll rise instead of drop.