heloguy

I have an FSSB R3 Warthog, and both a Cougar and Warthog grip. Both grips work fine on the R3, not to mention, I imagine you'll find easier mounting solutions with the R3 over the R2..

I vote no twist, but would like to see a Warthog compatible version. I would most likely get one of each. As to the topic within the topic of Virpil compatibility, I can't see any reasonable expectation from VKB to ensure compatibility. The chances are most likely high that it would work, but if it doesn't, they can't be held responsible. I just ran into this issue while trying to use a new version of the Virpil Mongoose T-50 on a Brunner CLS-E base. The grip didn't work at all, even though I had read in other forums that the older version of the Mongoose T-50 worked fine on the Brunner base. The grip worked fine on other Warthog compatible bases that I own. I ended up getting a used older version of the T-50 grip on eBay, and it worked fine. All that to say, if a product claims Warthog compatibility, then we can expect just that. Anything else, unless mentioned, is going to be at the risk of the buyer.

Small update to this: Per a suggestion by Sokol over at SimHQ, I ordered some parts from Thrustmaster (switches, and grip for the PCB), and some ALPS 8-way plus push switches. I've also ordered some parts from Debolestis Shapeways store to use, so I'll see what I can come up with when it all arrives.

I know I'm quiet here, but I've definitely been watching this daily. I'd give it a go in the first run, Miles. While not tech savvy in the builder sense as you are, I feel I'm good as far as testing the overall product and user interaction.

Yeah, TM Cougar ruined the common perception of real world controls. Now everyone thinks this is how a control grip is supposed to feel.

Just wanted to share my next project, as well as look for any advice. I was able to acquire an OH-6 cyclic grip, and want to modify it according to some H-60 pictures I've seen in some walkaround websites. Here's the original grip: What I would like to do is the following: In all, I see 25 total buttons. My plan is to make this Warthog compatible, so I already see a problem with the number of buttons. If I can substitute some of the buttons for all eight ways of a POV switch, then I'm good, as the button total will be 17. If not, then I'm stuck with 21 desired, and 19 available, unless I'm mistaken about the max button count available through shift register. So far, with buttons, I would like to replace the ICS/Radio rocker (I'm sure it's old)with a like switch, but will test it to see if it actually works with a meter. The rest of the buttons, I also plan to replace with what's in the pics. I need to take some measurements to see how big the switch bodies need to be (as well as how big the tail piece needs to be), but I'm definitely open to suggestions on where to find such switches. The biggest hurdles I see are adding the second trigger (mainly due to the modifications required), and adding the rocker switch for force trim release (ringfinger switch on the left side as pictured). Also, what is the best way to PCB this beast? I do have a Warthog grip with a VKB adapter that I never use, but I'd rather just save that, and get something new and separate. I'm also aware that just wiring the switches to a BBI-32 or something of the like might be the only option, but I'd like to save the USB port on my computer. It's not out of the question, but if I can make it Warthog (Shift register) pure, that would be ideal. Thanks for looking, and any suggestions.

Only other thing I could think of is making sure the joystick is properly calibrated.

Make sure you don't have multiple joysticks bound to the same axes (ie, two devices bound to pitch/roll/yaw axes on the same aircraft). This can lead to the behavior you describe.

The second switch was clicking, but I wasn't getting an indication under Windows test. I had a Cougar grip laying around, so I decided to take a look at the internals. Everything is pretty much the same, except smaller, so I decided to give the swap a go. So far so good. I have the F-22 grip back together with the Cougar PCB, and all switches and wiring, and everything tested out okay. The swap took about 4.5 hours of work (I'm slow, and didn't want to mess anything up). That includes breaking the solder on one of the switches, and having to repair it. All in all, I'm happy with the results. Hopefully this grip, paired with an extension, won't be too heavy for my Brunner CLS-E.

Seems the rubber pad is actuating the switch just fine. All the wiring looks intact as well. Guess maybe it’s just a bad switch. I wonder if it’s possible to transfer Cougar or Warthog internals to an F-22 grip shell.

Ah, great, thanks Sokol, I’ll give that a shot. Your knowledge with joystick stuff has been great over the years, thanks a bunch!

Not sure this is what he meant (ie, ffb effects available during early access), but great job at putting words in his mouth. Honestly, would be great but understand that this is not a priority.

Any chance you have a picture of the part you used? Either way, thanks for the hint. I still hear a click when I pull to the second detent, but maybe that isn't the switch actuating.

Just wanted to say thanks to debolestis and Sergey_Pe for taking the time to post this. I used your pics to convert my own F-22 to work on Warthog compatible devices. For some reason the second stage of the trigger doesn't work (doesn't look like anything is pinched), but I'm sure I'll figure it out eventually.

Small update. I converted a Thrustmaster F-22 stick grip using the tailpiece from an old Warthog grip (I actually bought stuff from Shapeways to do it, but nothing fit exactly right). The grip is good since it's lighter, so that may become the primary if I can't get the T-50 to work. I've also found an extension for sale on E-bay where the seller is willing to customize the extension length. I'm getting a custom length of his so-called 'Goose Neck' version, so I can move my seat closer to the stick without contacting the extension. The listing is posted here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINIUM-EXTENSIONS-FOR-THRUSTMASTER-WARTHOG-COUGAR-H-O-T-A-S-JOYSTICKS-/292123030904 After sending him a .ppt with measurements of what I want, he told me he'd go ahead and make it, send me pictures, and then I can buy it through the listing on Ebay.

Just received mine today. Definitely a nice piece of equipment, and DCS would definitely be awesome if the FFB plugin ever became a reality. So far, I only have two complaints: 1) It's pretty bulky, and as I intend to use it primarily for helo flights, it's kind of a pain to get it setup for a center mount. I have the Monstertech mount for it, but it just exacerbates the base size. Basically, I'm going to have to figure out a way to mount it low, with a really light extension and grip so as not to dampen the force feedback, or stress the motors too much. 2) I bought a T-50cm grip from Virpil, thinking that would fill the gap of a light grip, but unfortunately, no matter what I do, I can't get the buttons to register. I have a BRD Black Stork with a Warthog grip on it. The Warthog grip works on both bases. For whatever reason, the T-50 will only work with the Black Stork base. I've contacted both Brunner, and Virpil. So far, Virpil says they don't know what the problem is, and that they don't list the CLS-E as a compatible device. We'll see if Brunner has any ideas... Otherwise, so far the base is great as a helicopter cyclic. I'm able to assign whatever button I like as a trim release, as well as a trim hat for fine tuning. I'm looking forward to trying it out with Prepar3D and XPlane to see what the native FFB modes are like.

I asked the Brunner customer service reps about using the hardware trim functionality to emulate helicopter force trim, with a trim release button, in sims that aren’t supported by their API (specifically DCS). They confirmed that this is true, using their software, it’s possible. I took the plunge, and will definitely report back once I’ve received the stick, and tried it. The only thing that worries me, is the max force is much less compared to that of their cyclic, so I hope it can stand up to using an extension with the Warthog grip.

Okay, so apparently I can't follow instructions completely. I had originally calibrated with Windows only, so when I re-read the install instructions to make sure I had done everything right, I realized there was a Throttle Calibration tool. After using that program, I ran into an issue of the stick being way off center toward the top (opposite of the original issue I was having). I took a chance and calibrated with Windows again (I know, against the original instructions, but just wanted to try it), and now everything works as it should. Thanks again, great piece of kit!

Until it moves. ATFLIR ATW.

Definitely interested in two when they are available.

so, I'm happy with the control improvement, however, it seems that the slew does not always return to center, and gets stuck slightly downward. This makes it hard to keep slewed on something, as I have to remember to physically bring it back to center.

I've had mine awhile, and only recently got around to putting it together. So far, I have a problem with the middle collective coolie (multiple button presses when pressing any direction), and the cyclic only has the top coolie, and 3 out of four buttons on the bottom coolie working. All other buttons are dead. Apparently mine is an older assembly, but this is pretty disappointing.

Awesome, I’d definitely buy two.

Hey debolestis, Is this something that could be done sturdy enough by a 3d printer to use as a joystick mount? I just dug an old Obutto rig out of the closet, and want to be able to mount a Gunfighter Pro to it, and I'm having a heck of a time trying to find a place nearby that can do this in metal. Original post: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=189345 Bracket.pdf

So, I fired up the beta today, and went to work re-assigning my keys the way I like them. Everything seems fine, except I can't re-assign the weapons release key. It defaults to Button 2 on my joystick, but when I re-assign it to button 1, the entry turns red, and it doesn't work. If I leave it at default, it works fine, but I don't like that button position for firing weapons. I've tried clearing the category, and reassigning a few times with the same result.