Griffin

There was a discussion here a while ago where I posted a link that said that JSF engines weren't designed for supercruise but no one really knew if the aircraft can still do that. Thanks for info!

Something you don't see everyday. Tank vs tank in Syria and the other one cooking off after shot. Never seen the real deal before. http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=e05_1352151113

http://combathelo.blogspot.fi/ It looks amazing but still very very far away. Don't count on it.

I don't see it here either.

For melodic metal fans. Especially northerners who see that the winter is coming and it's getting darker day by day. Don't feel bad. I did until I listened to Insomnium and the atmosphere sucked me in.

Ok I ordered Antec Kuhler 620 for CPU cooling. Even if it's not the best of the best, I really thought it has the best bang for buck and still competes on top with even some of the best Noctua coolers. Also it looks compact and clean inside the case unlike the monstrous air coolers that would require me to rethink the fan positioning inside my case. For it I ordered a 120 mm Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850 RPM fan because the stock fan is crap I've read. Additional bonus is that to mount the Antec Kuhler radiator into the back 120 mm fan slot on my case, I can place the existing case fan in front. + two DEMCiflex magnetic filters. So after nearly a year of maxing out this rig, I've got the following setup (minus Samsung 256 GB SSD I'll order next month hopefully). CPU - Intel Q9550 @ 3.7 GHz (will push it as far as I can) CPU cooler - Antec Kühler H2O 620 with 120 mm Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850 RPM fan MoBo - Asus P5K GPU - Gigabyte Radeon HD 7870 Windforce 2048MB RAM - 8 GB Kingston HyperX 1066MHz DDR2 PSU - Super Flower Golden Green Modular 800W Hard drives - 500 GB SATA + 160 GB IDE (successfully converted to SATA with DVD drive by adapters) + future SSD Case - Fractal Design Core 3000 Logitech MX518 mouse TrackIR 4 LG Flatron W2042T 20.1" screen (should upgrade someday) CH Fighterstick & Pro Throttle Saitek Rudder Pedals (planning to upgrade, hopefully to KomodoSim pedals) So that means I'm almost done with the maxing out of this rig. Lets see how things go with my job and maybe in 6 months I will get the new MoBo, CPU and RAM. In the meantime really want to get new rudder pedals if budget permits. Thank you all for your help so far! You've done great job in explaining me things and spent alot of your time. Great to be a member here. :)

Ok now to the cooling part. I overclocked as far as I could on my old cooler (not stock) and got to 3.7 GHz @ ~1.328 V quite easily. The Vdroop under load is crazy though but it's stable. The old owner of my Q9550 lapped it so the temps are propably better because of that. So I got to 70 C with Intel Burn Test and obviously I don't want to go past that. I'm planning a second inlet fan at the front of the case (for HD cooling and positive pressure) and I've already decided it will be Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm, 1150rpm. The CPU cooler is harder to choose. I've been looking all morning at comparisons and reviews. A water cooler such as Antec Kühler H2O would be awesome because of the size but the performance to noise ratio seems questionable. An air cooler would take alot of space and not sure if I have to do some arrangements with relocating fans and such to make it fit. For example the high performance Noctua coolers would be nice but not sure about the space. Here are examples; My current cooler has only 92 mm fan and it already seems close to the top fan. However here someone has a big Noctua NH-D14 and it fits easily in the same case. I would be interesting to know how different are the CPU locations on our motherboards. There's also the requirement to have it compatible with my current LGA775 and 1155 socket for future MOBO, CPU combo thus the above pictured Noctua is out of question. Now the questions are; - Will the Noctua NH-C14 fit? Will measure. - Are the water coolers such Corsair Hydro H60 and Antec Kühler H2O 620 worth it and comparable? According to Overclockersclub they are really close but are they worth the noise? Perhaps with custom fans?

SH*T that was close!!!

LOL thanks for fitting the video to the thread title. :D

Not really funny but nowhere else to put... Meanwhile in Finland

http://forum.1cpublishing.eu/showthread.php?t=32387&page=3

Ok thanks for info. I'm currently overclocking mine but sadly can't yet comment on the performance as my PSU broke down, thus I can't use my graphics card and will not install the sim until I get SSD this month. Was hoping for some ballpark figures if you were overclocked.

How fast is your CPU EagleEye? I have a very similar system.

Cowboy already put it pretty well but I'll say again that the pedals fit perfectly the gap that I've been staring at. Saitek pedals are flimsy, plastic and hard to service. I really would appreciate advice on proper lubrication to use with Saitek pedals before I know if I'll buy Komodo pedals. Komodo pedals cost around 300 € for me while the next "bests" pedals would be over 600 € easily! They look robust, good quality and easy to service, lubricate and even disassemble if needed. Let alone all rest of the complete setup! And Rich, I don't know if you knew about the DCS: Huey before your first message but you found the crack spot on! I'll be drooling for the pedals for that aircraft for sure and hopefully will eventually be able to get proper helicopter controls in my living room! Question; Do your helicopter pedals differ from aircraft pedals to such extent that it would feel weird to control fixed wings with them? Meaning different damping and centering system. Or would a fixed wing pilot find it indifferent? I know Saitek pedals aren't that realistic either. To be honest, while I would fly Ka-50 the most, I would not buy Ka-50 grips because I think the HOTAS design is failed, uncomfortable and I would rather get a grip with more buttons and assign them how I want. This has clearly been adressed in Ka-52.

There are no stupid questions! Rather ask than make a fool of yourself later or screw something up. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=85462 :)

Those pedals have quite narrow base. Do you think they would be fine with velcro straps on the floor or would they be wobbly? I might actually buy them during next 6 months if I still have a job.

That stuff looks awesome! I would be all over it if I was... single. :D Right now I'm interested in the pedals which I might actually buy someday. Not anytime soon though but those are what I've been looking for. Affordable quality pedals instead of these Saitek toys. Those are what I've been looking for since other better quality pedals cost much more! Don't you dare to raise your price though as 300 € is my "not worth it" limit. ;)

It's not really hard to install but you should check some instructions for sure. I assume you have a stock CPU cooler and the plastic twist pins the Intel CPU's have for securing are a total bitch! They might give you hard time, maybe not for everybody though. If you plan to get a better cooler with a backplate to secure it from the back of the motherboard, installation should be much easier with screws providing your PC case has a hole to see the back of the motherboard's CPU socket. Without the hole you will have to remove the motherboard alltogether. But since you have to get a new motherboard anyway, you can do it out of case which makes it really easy. However there is such thing as static electricity and you should be cautious when touching the tiny electronics. When you feel a snap of static electricity when you touch something, that means thousands of volts have made that snap happen! Electronics use only a few volts for operation so that tiny snap will break something for sure. When you want to handle open electronic components, first touch some large metal part such as cooler ribs to even out the static potential difference. It's not too easy to break something like that but it might happen and it's easy enough to prevent. Lastly check this guide for applying thermal paste: http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=1 I don't remember if that guide tells you so I'll say here that first of all clean the cooler and CPU surfaces with something like isoprophyl alcohol and don't touch the surfaces with your fingers after that. If you get something like Arctic Silver then check their website for further instructions. Even though here's alot of text and it might seem very new and complex, really the installation doesn't take more than 10 minutes after you do it once. I really encourage you to do it yourself. You will learn things and it's fun! You don't even have to be too tech savvy if you read the instructions first. Good luck with the plastic pins though.

Thanks ED! Can't wait to install after I get the my SSD!

Got it working! The adapter has two SATA connectors. On the backside of the adapter there is text for the connectors IDE TO SATA HDD and SATA TO IDE HDD. Logically I should plug IDE TO SATA HDD if I want an IDE drive to work as SATA but it was reversed for some reason. Also set jumper to master and all is working.

Thanks for starting another thread like this!

Great to see old Shark still getting new features! Good job ED. I hope they will optimize the engine Will install the new version when I get an SSD this month hopefully!