Jump to content

Maddaawg

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    314

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Maddaawg

  1. Maddaawg
    I think you have too much rotation "rot". When looking 70 degrees, your adding 60 degrees more. So that is creating a sudden jump. The attached screenshot is from Norbert's readme on github. The interface from XRN and VRN look slightly different with XRN having a selection in Autorotation for Stepwise vs Smooth. This looks like the Stepwise in you screen grabs. Give the settings a try in the image I loaded. The Readme on XRNecksafer has a better description of act, de, and rot than the VRN page.
  2. Maddaawg
    Mine both broke within 2 days. Plastic can be very strong, but not 3D printed plastic as it is not the same as injection molded plastic. My first break was my fault as I dropped it off my finger (loose fit) and it hit the aluminum extrusion holding my flight stick to the desk. That was about 12" and it landed in a corner where the vertical and horizontal mounts come together, so it didn't bounce elsewhere. It cracked right where you would expect. So, I superglued it and that seemed to work. The second one broke in my hand while on my finger being used. I squeezed it to hold it from moving and it snapped. It was at that point I decided to test the flex of the broken piece and there was none as it just snapped. There is virtually no tensile strength and leaving that gap is asking for it to flex and break in your hands or break with a short fall. I have now completely covered it along the tangs in epoxy. I hope this holds otherwise my $200 USD was a waste. The first image shows one superglued and the other with its fresh break. The first one only cracked which then made it useless as it acted like a hinge. The second is after supergluing and in the last is full epoxy. The other projects I have seen of this look to have thicker design at the tang.
  3. Maddaawg
    Ok, thanks
  4. Maddaawg
    I was looking at how the Slugmouse worked and the movement between head and hand position is going to take some getting used to. Are there any settings in Oculus, DCS or HTCC to minimize the target movement? While trying to flip a switch for instance, the cursor will move around the switch until I get just the right combination head and hand to over hover the switch in the exact location needed. If not, can the Slugmouse cursor be eliminated, and I just aim with my head and click the Slugmouse?
  5. Maddaawg
    Why are you forcing IPD to 57.5? Can't you just set the Q3 to 57 or 58 and see which is best? I'm not sure what effect the forcing IPD has but try adjusting your Q3 first for best results.
  6. Maddaawg
    Quests are getting updated, maybe that broke steamer? I've been using VD as that was working better than Meta Quest Link. Yesterday I decided to give it another try and it still looked like crap. But it was so bad I could not see why so many use it and like it. So I reset the settings in MQ Link and set it for 90hz and slid the resolution bar to the far right. It was amazing looking. I'm sure under testing I'm going to have to turn it down, but it sure looked good. I have a dedicated 6E wifi for just the Q3 and the router is connected via ethernet to my PC and internet.
  7. Maddaawg
    Not really, I'm just working on my settings as I was teaching myself in 2D first. It will depend a lot on your system specs. There are several helpful threads here under Virtual Reality. Questions for settings are split amongst using VD, Wireless MQ Link or Wired MQ Link. If using the Meta Quest Links, then there are some configurations to be made with Oculus Tray Tool. I've been using VD so I am not familiar with that tool. In your forum settings, you can look for the signature settings and put your system specs there and that will help others to help you.
  8. Maddaawg
    The speed test Aapje mentioned, but also my test is not available on version 65. His cable is a USB 3.0 Type A to C with a plug in power adapter in the middle, so he can't reverse it back to PC. If you're not having any issues, it may just be that Meta software is reading the cable incorrectly.
  9. Maddaawg
    The G2 has better clarity in the sweet spot than the Q3 though the Q3 has higher clarity throughout the rest of the lenses. I came from a G2, if I look right at numbers and dials, they were clearer, but I always had to look right at them.
  10. Maddaawg
    Optometrists IPD = 66 while app says 63.5 You can also use a chart in a program available via PC and use it through Steam or directly on a PC that lets you check vision via a Snellen Chart but not IPD. It says you cannot currently get 20/20 vision score due to current VR technology. The app is a bit dated, and he says he is working on an OpenXR version. I used it to check my FOV and vision comparing Rx inserts and position of my AMVR facial which has 3 positions adjustments for depth. I also get close enough to see clearly and then adjust the IPD and 63 comes in better than the Optometrists 66. It's called TESTHMD and is available at itch.io for $4 usd. I load it to Steam and then run through Virtual Desktop. If you get this, use the 1.1a version. I tried running the version 2 from my PC and got several errors. There is a guy on YT that uses it in his testing of VR and that's how I found it. If I can find one of his videos using it I will come back and link it. Here are a couple YT videos on it:
  11. Maddaawg
    So, the person with the problem with the non-functional stick after updating the base firmware was given an older version of SimAppPro and that allowed him to fix the issue and then update the firmware. And another person updated without issue but shows a higher firmware version than what SAP says is available for mine and it shows the same HOTAS. I'm just not going to update any longer unless they add a feature I really need, or it breaks in DCS.
  12. Maddaawg
    In a post I made about this somewhere else, a person responded that they removed the stick, and it updated the base then but now his stick doesn't work. I'll follow the mantra if it isn't broke, don't fix it.
  13. Maddaawg
    Sorry, it must have been a different video.
  14. Maddaawg
    Is that you staring in the video? How do you strap your Tartarus or Nostromo and roller mouse to your legs? I have a Tartarus Pro and have not found an elegant way to secure it.
  15. Maddaawg
    As soon as my finger guage gets here, I will be ordering this. I've been on the PontCtrl list since February 2023 and still have 6-9 months to wait for that.
  16. Maddaawg
    Will do.
  17. Maddaawg
    I put in a ticket at WinWing and they are working on it.
  18. Maddaawg
    I am trying to update my Orion2 joystick base, but SimAppPro won't let me without disconnecting the F16 JGrip. So, am I supposed to take it apart just to update? I have never run into this issue before with this HOTAS. I added some screen grabs for clarity.
  19. Maddaawg
    I said it does provide the drive information and bios information using MSINFO32, its the Windows System applet Info that doesn't. I posted a picture of the applet. What you posted is MSINFO32 which is what I was referring too. Part of the problem is naming conventions, getting to MSINFO32 requires either entering it as the search bar or command prompt. Right clicking start and selecting System is what I was referring to that does not provide BIOS information. As I look at the previous posts I think when Aapje mentioned System Information, I took that as the Windows System Applet as shown in my screen grab. Someone new to PC's like the 2nd OP(hijacked thread) would not know about MSINFO32 aka System Information.
  20. Maddaawg
    MSINFO32 provides all the information needed except memory timings and is already installed in Windows. I'm not aware of Windows system providing the BIOS version, but if it does please show me that so I have that info. I also use CPU-Z and install that along with CPUID HWMonitor and GPU-Z. I don't believe MSINFO32 has memory timings, but drive type is under Components/Storage/Disks To get CPU, Bios, Memory and Drive types without installing anything, from a command prompt (search bar type CMD), then enter MSINFO32
  21. Maddaawg
    If you're going to do much 2D, you might want to consider getting an eye tracker. There are several brands like TrackIR and DelanClip. For reading manuals and startup sequences in VR, you can get OpenKneeBoard. I've even seen people getting it to show YT videos. I'm not sure how well that works though. But I will be trying that myself soon. I learned FA-18 startup, taxiing, takeoff and landing in 2D using a DelanClip Gamer Pro which is about $100 less than TrackIR.
  22. Maddaawg
    You only need to worry about WMR to start with. Get the G2 up and running in the WMR home and try getting use to VR. When your ready, open DCS from within WMR on the monitor screen and that's it. After that, you can worry about other apps. One of the most recommended is OpenXR Toolkit. OpenXR Toolkit
  23. Maddaawg
    With the G2 you will use WMR and OpenXR. You didn't say which Windows version, the G2 requires WMR which I hope you know Windows is ending support for with the next Win11 yearly update. So don't update Win11 or stay in Win10. As long as you don't update you'll still be able to use WMR and I believe that's until 2027ish. I would stick with standalone which is directly from ED vs Steam. Though any modules purchased on Steam can be transferred but not visa-versa. You'll want to get multiple apps to assist you eventually, but WMR and OpenXR -Toolkit to start. Google that and it's a free app on Github. WMR should start automatically when you power up the G2, then from the monitor in the WMR home start DCS. This is a long process, and the above was just the key to the door of your new classroom. Also, your going to want a HOTAS immediately. It is not fun without one. But if you just want to see if you can stand VR, you can use a keyboard and mouse.
  24. Maddaawg
    What is your WiFi situation and settings in VD?
  25. Maddaawg
    Your meter probably gave you volts, but not the amps or watts. One test is to swap cables, and then swap computers. The Q3 needs 18w but USB-C is giving you 15w (5v x 3A) which is why they slowly discharge. Sounds like you PC or cable is giving you less than 3A. My first guess and easiest fix would be the cable. You did say "current" was measured but I suspect you meant volts unless you have a specific tester for USB. I've been looking at getting one of those myself.
×
×
  • Create New...